Battery relocation wiring

[Lucas03ES]

Okay so I am re-doing the previous owner of my car's battery relocation. Ill lay out what my plan is looking like, and I would appreciate some input on if this is a correct way to do this, and if not what I can do. My goal is to completely delete the fusible link box that was originally attached to the battery I assume. ABS is gone.

I have a 1/0 run from the alternator output, I want to hook it up to an ANL fuse holder with a 100A fuse in it near the passenger fender well, with a 8 gauge run coming from the input side that runs to the 60A FUSE (+B) location on the main fuse box. On the output side of the ANL fuse holder I will run another section of 1/0 straight to the starter where the 1/0 that leads to the trunk also meets up. Also, I would have to relocate the 30A fuse from the battery block to the empty ECS spot on the main fuse box. Would this all work out properly? Thanks!

Another thought I had, was if I was to put the 30A fusible link in to the larger fuse box, should I place the 100A fusible link left over from the alt. as that circuit will now have a larger draw?

 

[Lucas03ES]

I am about to tear in to this, and it appears that there is two seperate wires that power the fuse box. There is another 8 ga. wire that is solid white and is connected after it goes through the 100A fuse and powers the 60A ABS fuse before it runs back to the main box. Are these the only two wires which power the main fuse box? I would like a second opinion on this before I go tearing in to my wiring. Thanks guys!

 

[123abc]

Honestly, it would be way easier to utilize the stock fuse block that would normally sit on the positive post. If you carefully open it up, there's two 2mm bolts holding the metal L bracket to the block. Put a lug on one end of the thick cable, bolt it to one of the spots the L bracket bolted to on the block. Then just have your thick cable going to a junction where it meets the starter cable and the cable that would go back to your battery.

 

[Lucas03ES]

I just finished up doing this.

You can see the fuse holder, the wire that heads to the left goes straight to the alternator. The smaller wire that also comes out of that side runs to the "60A FUSE (+B)" on the fuse box, and the large wire that heads to the right goes straight to the starter. The smaller wire coming out of the right side powers the other fusible links in the fuse box. I relocated the 30A fusible link from the battery fuse box to the spot that reads (ECS) on the bigger fuse box. Does anyone see any problems with this setup?

 

[turbowop]

Red trans!

 

[Lucas03ES]

haha it was like that when I bought the car I sourced it from. Red trans with a powdercoated blue stock intake mani with a stripped down valve cover, and blue wire looming on EVERYTHING on a red car, along with some Taz floormats. I wasn't ambitious enough to clean it off or repaint it, because I will be swapping it up later on.

 

[broxma]

As long as you routed each wire to an appropriate amp fuse everything should be fine. When I moved my battery, I grabbed a multi spade fuse holder from Advance and screwed it into the side of the battery box in the back. I had two wires running to the front then, one main 0 gauge for the starting/charging system, with the charging system branched to an inline 100 amp fuse, and another twisted 3 wire which was the original block on the terminal, just extended, from the fuse block. I ran a single 8 gauge from the battery to the fuse block.

And as a further note on wire. Buying a lot of 0 gauge wire can be expensive, going for well more than a dollar a foot. If you buy the 20 foot HD jumper cable from Advance/VatoZone, you get really high quality, thin strand, very flexible wire. I paid 24.99 for the 20 cables which gave me 40 feet of the stuff. For smaller 8 and 10 gauge wires, nothing beats a high quality 25 or 50 foot extension cable from lowes. Same deal. High quality, thin strand, well covered wire. By the foot for the same wire I was looking at 50+ cent a foot. I got 150 feet of the stuff for about 25 bucks.

/brox

 

[Lucas03ES]

I reused the fusible link for the 30A relocation, and on the FUSE +B location I left the 60A, because it appeared that the fuse was not in line with the other ones in that row, just parallel to them. I also used a 100A ANL fuse for the main power wire, as that was the size of the original fusable link for the alternator wire.

That is a good idea for the wiring, as I have gotten several times over cuts from vatozone and they want $6.99 for any gauge with varying lengths up to like 10 feet of 12awg which was pretty weak. Lowes and HD have wire as well that is a bit cheaper and it is by the foot, but their wiring has oil resistant coatings and crap on it for outdoor use and it makes it really stiff and hard to work with.