1101/2000 motor seems to have locked up or died with no explaination other than 176k on the clock. I will need a good builder or company in az, that carries this motor any suggestions thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
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well the search continues maybe akina motor sports ... but still leaning twards a rebuild in jan rather than dropping a jdm?
boostedinaz
Well-known member
Basko did mine and to this day it runs strong and while I had it it NEVER leaked oil.
how much does he charge? and if i give him the new piston and rod setup can he do all the machine work or does he just build it ?
boostedinaz
Well-known member
It's a full service machine shop that also will assemble the entire engine or just a short block if you want. I paid just about 600.00 for a complete assembled short block. That included the machining of the 1G rods for the 2G pistons as well.
DR1665
Well-known member
That's a helluva deal. I paid $500 to "Standard Machine" or something out in Glendale/Peoria for a shortie balanced out to 12,000rpm back in 2005 or so.
Shame you didn't jump on it sooner. This one was collecting dust in my garage in Glendale for the better part of a year.
Shame you didn't jump on it sooner. This one was collecting dust in my garage in Glendale for the better part of a year.
ya a damn shame and thanks michael for the info that sounds good ... I still cant find why my motor froze but the bottom end looks ok at lease it was not a rod im gonna pull the manny and the turbo and the head this weekend to see if piston walls are scared ? I have this all down on paper now so its 300.00 for the 2g pistons and frankenstein rods ... 350.00 for the 3angle valve job of course extra for other parts this includes new lifters.. Then 500.00 for a complete short block build .. So 1150.00 plus any other stuff wiring harness is kinda cracked and new belts... All of them ... Gaskets all of them intake , throtel,exaust, ect water pump so I say around 1500.00 I also have the 16g and the walbro 255 with 660 injectors and a new regulator ready to go in ... Dsm link and fmic might have to waite /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif thanks again for all the help you all rock
DR1665
Well-known member
So this thing - for sure - seized up on you? How much oil did you get out of it and what did it look like? How about the coolant?
With regards to cylinder wall scarring, you may very well still see crosshatching on the walls. The crosshatch looks like fine fine sandpaper marks on the cylinder walls and will be more or less parallel with the deck. Scarring will be shinier, uneven streaks running up and down the cylinder.
You should also inspect your rotating assembly (pistons/rods/crank) for visible signs of wear. Piston skirts will often show signs of making contact with the cylinder walls (again, shiny, up-and-down marks), but don't rule out wrist pin issues. Anyone clarify if there should be wrist pin locks on the OEM bits? It's been a while, so I'm not 100 certain. Look into the sides of the piston where the rod attaches. If all eight sides of all four pistons don't look the same, something's up.
Finally, take a close look at your bearing journals. When you break down the short block, keep your bearings together in order so you can tell which is which and where each came from after the fact. Used bearings can tell some stories; the way the metal is worn, color, all that. Do yourself a favor and keep track of things while you disassemble the shortie.
And, for dog's sake, take lots of GOOD pictures of everything. Make sure you get things in focus. These pictures will come in handy in the future, believe it.
Now, will any of these issues - spun bearing, wrist pin failure, cracked ring lands - result in a seized engine? I can't say with any authority, but if that lump locked up on you, you're gonna want to be relatively sure of the cause before you go dumping your cash into rebuilding it. Sure, any machine shop worth its salt is going to be able to spot problems of this magnitude with a block when they start working on it for you, but if you don't know why it died, how do you know it won't die soon after you rebuild it?
Finally, make sure your budget includes fresh coolant, distilled water (for mixing with the coolant, pre-mix is a waste of cash), at least 10 quarts of conventional oil (for two almost immediate oil changes, and never break in a new lump on synthetic), two quality oil filters, driveline fluids (for gearbox/tcase, minimum) upper and lower gasket sets from the dealership (replace them all, maybe even axle seals in gearbox too), MLS headgasket from dealership, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt kit (including tensioner and pullies), new accessory belts, assembly lube, and more than a couple cans of brake cleaner.
Rebuilds are much, much more than the Frankenstein lists people throw around online. DSMlink is not a priority. Gaskets are. 3-angle valve job is not a priority. Oil pump is. 16g is never more important than timing belt components. All these things - including headwork - can be done in a single day at some point in the future. If you want headwork done, buy a used head for $50 and have it done up while you drive 1101. Don't let the thirst for power lure you away from common sense. This isn't a shitbox DSM. It's a limited edition specialty vehicle and it will never treat you better than you treat it.
1. If it comes off the car, clean it thoroughly before you put it back on.
2. Do it right the first time, or expect to do it over.
3. Michael prefers Miller Lite.
4. Plan on joining us for a GVR4 victory celebration at In-N-Out in March. 195/2000 should be roadworthy by then, the beautiful disaster 3/1000 should be roadworthy by then, and you could be there as well. A combined five years and thousands of dollars in un-f***ing out of the way. Let's do it right and raise a few together to celebrate the return of three GVR4s to the Arizona road in March.
You in?
With regards to cylinder wall scarring, you may very well still see crosshatching on the walls. The crosshatch looks like fine fine sandpaper marks on the cylinder walls and will be more or less parallel with the deck. Scarring will be shinier, uneven streaks running up and down the cylinder.
You should also inspect your rotating assembly (pistons/rods/crank) for visible signs of wear. Piston skirts will often show signs of making contact with the cylinder walls (again, shiny, up-and-down marks), but don't rule out wrist pin issues. Anyone clarify if there should be wrist pin locks on the OEM bits? It's been a while, so I'm not 100 certain. Look into the sides of the piston where the rod attaches. If all eight sides of all four pistons don't look the same, something's up.
Finally, take a close look at your bearing journals. When you break down the short block, keep your bearings together in order so you can tell which is which and where each came from after the fact. Used bearings can tell some stories; the way the metal is worn, color, all that. Do yourself a favor and keep track of things while you disassemble the shortie.
And, for dog's sake, take lots of GOOD pictures of everything. Make sure you get things in focus. These pictures will come in handy in the future, believe it.
Now, will any of these issues - spun bearing, wrist pin failure, cracked ring lands - result in a seized engine? I can't say with any authority, but if that lump locked up on you, you're gonna want to be relatively sure of the cause before you go dumping your cash into rebuilding it. Sure, any machine shop worth its salt is going to be able to spot problems of this magnitude with a block when they start working on it for you, but if you don't know why it died, how do you know it won't die soon after you rebuild it?
Finally, make sure your budget includes fresh coolant, distilled water (for mixing with the coolant, pre-mix is a waste of cash), at least 10 quarts of conventional oil (for two almost immediate oil changes, and never break in a new lump on synthetic), two quality oil filters, driveline fluids (for gearbox/tcase, minimum) upper and lower gasket sets from the dealership (replace them all, maybe even axle seals in gearbox too), MLS headgasket from dealership, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt kit (including tensioner and pullies), new accessory belts, assembly lube, and more than a couple cans of brake cleaner.
Rebuilds are much, much more than the Frankenstein lists people throw around online. DSMlink is not a priority. Gaskets are. 3-angle valve job is not a priority. Oil pump is. 16g is never more important than timing belt components. All these things - including headwork - can be done in a single day at some point in the future. If you want headwork done, buy a used head for $50 and have it done up while you drive 1101. Don't let the thirst for power lure you away from common sense. This isn't a shitbox DSM. It's a limited edition specialty vehicle and it will never treat you better than you treat it.
1. If it comes off the car, clean it thoroughly before you put it back on.
2. Do it right the first time, or expect to do it over.
3. Michael prefers Miller Lite.
4. Plan on joining us for a GVR4 victory celebration at In-N-Out in March. 195/2000 should be roadworthy by then, the beautiful disaster 3/1000 should be roadworthy by then, and you could be there as well. A combined five years and thousands of dollars in un-f***ing out of the way. Let's do it right and raise a few together to celebrate the return of three GVR4s to the Arizona road in March.
You in?
if everything goes to plan then im down for sure most of my budget comes at end of jan and even more in the middle of feb. Im very nervouse to say the LEAST I have never done this befor and I live in maricopa so no one is close to so after getting it all apart im sure Im lost and will hopefuly get it back together in time . Like you said I dont need to make it worse by huring through it all . I mean im in for the long haul and since blowing 3500 on the car and another 500.00 trying to make it right then it shits on me its sad but it will be all good hell I dont think I ever even got to feel its true power .
I was offer this jdm for a good price ... This would be fast and give me more time to build that dream stroker?
boostedinaz
Well-known member
It could, but those motors are hit or miss. I had a buddy doing a 6 bolt in a 2G. He got two of the motors and both were junk, the last one he got worked well for a few months then he had to get the head rebuilt as it started to smoke real bad. After that it seemed to worked okay but he still had a mystery used engine but spent just as much as he would have to have one rebuilt.
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