clevr4
Well-known member
Precisely my problem. I'm guessing I should redo the job and not just loosen the bolts?
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
560 build thread
- Thread starter clevr4
- Start date
thomcasey
Well-known member
If it is a new gasket, take it off, let it sit and rest, out of the VC for a day, then reinstall it and tighen accordinglu and see if it still leaks.
clevr4
Well-known member
vc? I have amother gasket. How much rtv should I apply?
Valve cover is VC.
tektic
Well-known member
Before you start make sure none of the bolt holes in the head are stripped out. If they are get longer bolts and tap the holes deeper. This isn't a bad idea even if they are not striped out. It can prevent such damage in the future. I used "the right stuff" on the aluminum half moon plug at the end of the exhaust cam before I started.
I have had best results doing the following:
1. Thoroughly clean everything aluminum with alcohol or brake cleaner.
2. Wipe down the gasket with same.
3. Using black rtv Apply a thin continuing bead around the entire inside lip of the valve cover gasket groove.
4. Insert the gasket in the groove and aligning all the holes. Evenly apply light pressure with a piece of plywood or other similar object.
5. Inspect spreading pattern. Add a little where nothing came out. Wipe smooth any large gobs came out. Pay particular attention to corners. Return to step 4. until your satisfied with the application.
6. Apply a thin continuing coating to the head and spread thin and even with your gloved finger. Areas you can't reach with your finger apply silicone to gaskt instead (around cams in corners ect.)
7.install cover and lightly thread in all bolts.
8.using a nut driver snug bolts in a pattern as if you were installing cams or a head. (Alterating side to side using inside bolts as well as perimeter bolts) make at least 2 passes to make sure it lays down evenly and you don't strip out the head.
9.let it dry for at least 12 hours before running the engine to make sure it cure properly
10. Boost on.
This process workes well for me. I have had way too many new dry gaskets leak on me to ever not use rtv everywhere again.
I have had best results doing the following:
1. Thoroughly clean everything aluminum with alcohol or brake cleaner.
2. Wipe down the gasket with same.
3. Using black rtv Apply a thin continuing bead around the entire inside lip of the valve cover gasket groove.
4. Insert the gasket in the groove and aligning all the holes. Evenly apply light pressure with a piece of plywood or other similar object.
5. Inspect spreading pattern. Add a little where nothing came out. Wipe smooth any large gobs came out. Pay particular attention to corners. Return to step 4. until your satisfied with the application.
6. Apply a thin continuing coating to the head and spread thin and even with your gloved finger. Areas you can't reach with your finger apply silicone to gaskt instead (around cams in corners ect.)
7.install cover and lightly thread in all bolts.
8.using a nut driver snug bolts in a pattern as if you were installing cams or a head. (Alterating side to side using inside bolts as well as perimeter bolts) make at least 2 passes to make sure it lays down evenly and you don't strip out the head.
9.let it dry for at least 12 hours before running the engine to make sure it cure properly
10. Boost on.
This process workes well for me. I have had way too many new dry gaskets leak on me to ever not use rtv everywhere again.
clevr4
Well-known member
I'm not doing a valve cover. It's a turbo return line gasket on my to4e.... great advice though?haha
tektic
Well-known member
Ha. LOL ok. That's what I get for not reading all the posts.
I tried a bunch of times to seal mine with no luck. There are special crush washers for the bolts that people say you need. Other people say double up the gasket. I've heard people say cut the little tab off the outside of the gasket. Every turbo 4G I ever owned had a leak here. I welded a 3/4" NPT fitting on mine after the 3rd try to stop the leak. Its working well like this:
I tried a bunch of times to seal mine with no luck. There are special crush washers for the bolts that people say you need. Other people say double up the gasket. I've heard people say cut the little tab off the outside of the gasket. Every turbo 4G I ever owned had a leak here. I welded a 3/4" NPT fitting on mine after the 3rd try to stop the leak. Its working well like this:
clevr4
Well-known member
I'll also keep that in mind. But.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif I'm referring to the other side of that line. The connection to my turbo. I applied the gasket. A decent amount of rtv. But it was tricky getting the gasket on while under the car. Or above it. I just tightened it till I felt the bolts where pretty snug
tektic
Well-known member
Hmm. I never had a problem there. Maybe try shalak on a new gasket insted of rtv after cleaning everything well?
Shellac, jack.
tektic
Well-known member
What he said .
clevr4
Well-known member
Shaweet, how tight on those bolts? Crank em good or lay off a bit? Is a 13 mm. Don't Joe thread size. But seem pretty sturdy
tektic
Well-known member
Somthing like that shouldn't take much. Just get the even and tight enough. Over tightening any bolt is bad.
clevr4
Well-known member
What brand of socket do you all use on the spark plugs. my 21mm deep socket wouldn't fit in the hole. Any suggestions or preference?
thomcasey
Well-known member
I have this set Spark Plug Socket set Works amazing.
Quoting clevr4:
What brand of socket do you all use on the spark plugs. my 21mm deep socket wouldn't fit in the hole. Any suggestions or preference?
I have a basic Craftsman deep spark plug socket that has the foam inside that grips the spark plug to lift it out.
What brand of socket do you all use on the spark plugs. my 21mm deep socket wouldn't fit in the hole. Any suggestions or preference?
I have a basic Craftsman deep spark plug socket that has the foam inside that grips the spark plug to lift it out.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
i think i know what the issue is. you have impact sockets don't you?
you need to get a regular socket. i use a regular 21mm and a set of needle nose pliers to get mine out. i think i have a mastercraft 21mm socket.
you need to get a regular socket. i use a regular 21mm and a set of needle nose pliers to get mine out. i think i have a mastercraft 21mm socket.
clevr4
Well-known member
You're a wise dude. I do have impact sockets. Because they were so damn cheap. 10-22 for 30 bucks! Haha. I'll stop being a noon and get a legit spark socket
clevr4
Well-known member
Alright guys. Little update. I looked at my second gasket for the to4e turbo. Which I thought was just a duplicate. But one I installed was gasket material. The second which I was going to use to do job over again is rubber. I haven't looked at diagrams of my turbo to see where each is used. But I'm a bit confused. Still leaking a bit and lost my 13 mm wrench so I couldNY redo the job. Got the Hallman boost controller installed. I was going to do the bcs and ship back the hallman. But they charged me 18 dollars in shipping. So I figure another 18 dollars in shipping I might as well install it. It works well thus far.
New improve list
fix the damn leak
change plugs bre7es
install oil pressure sending unit
New improve list
fix the damn leak
change plugs bre7es
install oil pressure sending unit
clevr4
Well-known member
drove the galant to work. On the way back a ram 2500 wanted to race, I went against my best judgement and did it. Rolled at 30 and took him in third. I pushed it pretty hard. while racing like hell my boost Guage lit up one bar then 2. boost Guage set for knock. 5 degrees. So my question is.... is knock horrible? I felt bad for pushing her that much. Is there a way to knock that knock out? Haha is this normal?
