I might have missed it but why do you have hoodpins on the stock hood?
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
379/1000 First Start ....Build Log
- Thread starterbroxma
- Start date
broxma
Well-known member
I know it's a long post with a lot of pictures so I understand why you would miss something like that.
I am having a custom front mount made which is 24x4.5x14 or so. I determined given the new PS cooler, the Volvo oil cooler and the FMIC it made sense to remove the vertical hood latch support. This however made the hood not close so instead of remedying this with another method, I just pinned it. I probably could have cut the bumper beam however with the lack of airbags I didn't want to weaken the beam any further or pull it off and have it welded.
/brox
I am having a custom front mount made which is 24x4.5x14 or so. I determined given the new PS cooler, the Volvo oil cooler and the FMIC it made sense to remove the vertical hood latch support. This however made the hood not close so instead of remedying this with another method, I just pinned it. I probably could have cut the bumper beam however with the lack of airbags I didn't want to weaken the beam any further or pull it off and have it welded.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
Small update, but first...
If I don't log into the site and click on this post it is 2 pages, but if I am logged in it is one. What is the rationale behind that?
So no pictures since the camera is downstairs in the garage but I have a best offer bid on a Wiseco/eagle setup. I went 9.0-1 because I will have the fuel and IC to keep knock at bay. I also ordered a set of Evo valves, springs and retainers. Again I am not building a race car. This will be my DD and the wife will get the Evo once I'm on the road again, but I figure given development and technology, in addition to the interchangeability of parts, the Evo stuff is most likely better.
I ordered a new Cometic HG, ACL rod bearings, have the head totally apart, pistons and rods out of the car. I'm going to unbolt the block from the tranny to get the balance shafts out, clean it up, paint and have it sent out to get a new bore for the pistons. I also am ditching the GM coil ignition in favor of the 3.5ltr dodge COP setup. I'll be making the plate Tuesday as well as getting the new PS cooler and tapping the fuel rail for the SS lines and fitting. I also found new main/cam seals and a new water pump in the garage which are all going on.
During my R&R on the head, I found that the #5 intake valve had no seat at all. Also, one of the rod bearings was broken in half and a few of the others had lost their coatings are were down to brass.
I'll of course be camera happy with all of this stuff.
/brox
If I don't log into the site and click on this post it is 2 pages, but if I am logged in it is one. What is the rationale behind that?
So no pictures since the camera is downstairs in the garage but I have a best offer bid on a Wiseco/eagle setup. I went 9.0-1 because I will have the fuel and IC to keep knock at bay. I also ordered a set of Evo valves, springs and retainers. Again I am not building a race car. This will be my DD and the wife will get the Evo once I'm on the road again, but I figure given development and technology, in addition to the interchangeability of parts, the Evo stuff is most likely better.
I ordered a new Cometic HG, ACL rod bearings, have the head totally apart, pistons and rods out of the car. I'm going to unbolt the block from the tranny to get the balance shafts out, clean it up, paint and have it sent out to get a new bore for the pistons. I also am ditching the GM coil ignition in favor of the 3.5ltr dodge COP setup. I'll be making the plate Tuesday as well as getting the new PS cooler and tapping the fuel rail for the SS lines and fitting. I also found new main/cam seals and a new water pump in the garage which are all going on.
During my R&R on the head, I found that the #5 intake valve had no seat at all. Also, one of the rod bearings was broken in half and a few of the others had lost their coatings are were down to brass.
I'll of course be camera happy with all of this stuff.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
so tonight I'll get some pictures up of the head getting taken apart. I have come up with a final list which should finish the project. I had a problem last night on Ebayz getting the pistons and rods. I had put in a best offer on a set of Wiseco's and eagle rods. 48 hours later, the retailer never got back to me. So I took that as a sign from the FSM and am going another route.
6 Bolt stock block - Clearly this came with the car
Balance Shafts removed with Mitsu rear stub - 22.00 Ebay
Evo IX pistons mounted on 1G rods -Still waiting on answer from seller but 100.00 Evom.net FS
Evo valves, springs, caps, seats, retainers - 100.00 Used Evom.net FS
ARP head studs - Came with car
ARP 1G rod bolts - 40.00 Ebay
ACL bearings - 40.00 Ebay
Thermal R&D 2.5 SS turbo back exhaust - Came with car
Modified Ebay SS O2 housing - 60.00 Ebay
2G ported manifold - Came with car
Hyundai shaved valve cover - 27.00 PnP
Shaved 1G stock intake manifold - Had it
NT throttle body - PnP I'm not sure if I paid for this
3g lifters - Haven't ordered em yet but they're 80.00 or so
Volvo Oil cooler - Not much, like 10.00 or so
Custom FMIC/pipes - This will be free and probably piss you all off
Q45 brake matster - This was free
Painted engine bay - Paint costs thus far are around 70.00 or so
5 lug swap
93GSX rear Subframe
4 Bolt LSD rear - All three of the above came to 379.00 PnP
Findanza flywheel - 100.00 Galantvr4.org FS
SS clutch line - 24.00 JNZ
AWS removed - Zero except associated costs of Subframe
ABS removed - Zero. Lines came off my donor car and BPV was free
AC removed - Free
Jay Racing alternator swap kit - 129.00? Jay Racing obviously
98 GSX wheels - I was actually paid 250.00 to take these in a trade for my 03 Evo Wheels
Evo Sprint springs - Free, Came with my Evo
KYB adjustables - Fronts with car, Rear 70.00 shipped for both New Source - Unknown
Energy sus master bushings - 160ish I think I got this from RRE os another DSM source
Rebuilt Eclipse PS rack - Free off donor car + 8.00 for O-ring multikit
Moog PS ends - 60ish Advance Auto
Front sway bar end links - 24.00 Google shopping oddly
16g turbo (to be upgraded to 20 or red) - Came with car
Evo injectors (upgraded to FIC 1050's eventually) - Had a set but bought a set for 100.00
-6 SS fuel lines/stock rail - Had the line and connectors already
2G maf - 20.00ish PnP
Braille 11.5 battery - Free, traded for stock battery
Evo ECU - Not purchased yet
93 headlights - 125.00 A1 Imports
Walbro 255 - 100.00, JNZ
I think that's it. Probably a few things I am missing but I'm using this post as a database. I still need to buy the clutch and a few other things. Not getting the pistons made me rethink my approach and freed up the money to be spent on other things which honestly are more important.
Dollar figures are down. Kinda messy but you get the idea. My total comes to 1848 or so which I am happy to round off to 2K. My friend paid 1000.00 for the car originally to use a parts car for his other GVR4. So total outlay is now at 3K. I have approximately 500.00 worth of stuff to sell and more things I will be selling as time wears on. The idea is to use simple buying and selling of used parts or other things to make this a Zero Cost car. The 1848 figure does not count the 250 I was paid for the GSX wheels so the actual total is closer to 1600+1000 right now.
/brox
6 Bolt stock block - Clearly this came with the car
Balance Shafts removed with Mitsu rear stub - 22.00 Ebay
Evo IX pistons mounted on 1G rods -Still waiting on answer from seller but 100.00 Evom.net FS
Evo valves, springs, caps, seats, retainers - 100.00 Used Evom.net FS
ARP head studs - Came with car
ARP 1G rod bolts - 40.00 Ebay
ACL bearings - 40.00 Ebay
Thermal R&D 2.5 SS turbo back exhaust - Came with car
Modified Ebay SS O2 housing - 60.00 Ebay
2G ported manifold - Came with car
Hyundai shaved valve cover - 27.00 PnP
Shaved 1G stock intake manifold - Had it
NT throttle body - PnP I'm not sure if I paid for this
3g lifters - Haven't ordered em yet but they're 80.00 or so
Volvo Oil cooler - Not much, like 10.00 or so
Custom FMIC/pipes - This will be free and probably piss you all off
Q45 brake matster - This was free
Painted engine bay - Paint costs thus far are around 70.00 or so
5 lug swap
93GSX rear Subframe
4 Bolt LSD rear - All three of the above came to 379.00 PnP
Findanza flywheel - 100.00 Galantvr4.org FS
SS clutch line - 24.00 JNZ
AWS removed - Zero except associated costs of Subframe
ABS removed - Zero. Lines came off my donor car and BPV was free
AC removed - Free
Jay Racing alternator swap kit - 129.00? Jay Racing obviously
98 GSX wheels - I was actually paid 250.00 to take these in a trade for my 03 Evo Wheels
Evo Sprint springs - Free, Came with my Evo
KYB adjustables - Fronts with car, Rear 70.00 shipped for both New Source - Unknown
Energy sus master bushings - 160ish I think I got this from RRE os another DSM source
Rebuilt Eclipse PS rack - Free off donor car + 8.00 for O-ring multikit
Moog PS ends - 60ish Advance Auto
Front sway bar end links - 24.00 Google shopping oddly
16g turbo (to be upgraded to 20 or red) - Came with car
Evo injectors (upgraded to FIC 1050's eventually) - Had a set but bought a set for 100.00
-6 SS fuel lines/stock rail - Had the line and connectors already
2G maf - 20.00ish PnP
Braille 11.5 battery - Free, traded for stock battery
Evo ECU - Not purchased yet
93 headlights - 125.00 A1 Imports
Walbro 255 - 100.00, JNZ
I think that's it. Probably a few things I am missing but I'm using this post as a database. I still need to buy the clutch and a few other things. Not getting the pistons made me rethink my approach and freed up the money to be spent on other things which honestly are more important.
Dollar figures are down. Kinda messy but you get the idea. My total comes to 1848 or so which I am happy to round off to 2K. My friend paid 1000.00 for the car originally to use a parts car for his other GVR4. So total outlay is now at 3K. I have approximately 500.00 worth of stuff to sell and more things I will be selling as time wears on. The idea is to use simple buying and selling of used parts or other things to make this a Zero Cost car. The 1848 figure does not count the 250 I was paid for the GSX wheels so the actual total is closer to 1600+1000 right now.
/brox
Last edited:
a2vr4
Well-known member
This is a really nice build Larry! As you know, I have been in touch with Redline and 582 is driving around, so as soon as I get the word from Brian I will be spending the afternoon in Dexter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
~Brian A. Moreno
~Brian A. Moreno
broxma
Well-known member
That's excellent news. I may have sent you an email the other day which might not have been for you about some gears. Hard to say but if so disregard.
I got the last email you sent to Redline so I figured it was moving forward but thanks for the update. I'm still several weeks out with any progress on 379 so I am in no rush to add hood struts to my growing list of things to do. I imagine Redline might end up with a sudden large number of orders once this is completed and made available as this is a product I think alot of people will like. Plus it's rather inexpensive in the scheme of things.
/brox
I got the last email you sent to Redline so I figured it was moving forward but thanks for the update. I'm still several weeks out with any progress on 379 so I am in no rush to add hood struts to my growing list of things to do. I imagine Redline might end up with a sudden large number of orders once this is completed and made available as this is a product I think alot of people will like. Plus it's rather inexpensive in the scheme of things.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
So here is the Head building post. I've already pulled the head off but suspected that the guy who put it together missed something. Come to find out I am right. Anyways, on with it...
Why would I take this picture? Because it shows the relative direction of the cam cap in relation to the head and which side it is on. They are numbered however I wanted them to come off exactly how they were on so this marks the direction of the arrow.
Same thing here.
Step one, pull the caps. The Cam seals are often in there pretty well so you may have to pull the opposite side to pop it out. The bolts are 12mm and thorque is around 12-15 lbs if I remember.
Step two, eat double stuff Oreos before hands get too dirty. If you wait too long on this step the cookies will pick up oily garbage from hard work hands. As you can see, My hands are already showing some of this.
Step three, build or grab your spring compressor. Mine is a homemade one built from an 8' Husky c clamp and a spark plug socket I cut and JB welded on.
Here is how I cut the socket. You don't need alot of vertical material to hold it together. The socket metal is very strong so the strips left are probably a 1/4' or so. Only leave about 1/4' around the bottom ring as well.
Here is the Valve compressor in action. Basic premise, it pushed the cap down while holding the valve in place with the clamp face. The caps pop once they break free from the locks.
Close up of the compressor with the lock opening up. Just grab a magnet and pull them out. Release pressure on the clamp, remove the cap, spring and seat then push the valve through the valve seal. Don't slam the valve through the seal and catch it. If you can do that, you need new seals anyway. The top of the valve should get stuck and require some force to go through the seal.
Lots of baggies. When labeling these I do two things. I use two different types of bags, one for Intake one for Exhaust. Second, I mark from which side I started to pull them noted by the water outlet in the drawing. I only have to put this on the first bag since I know #2 will be next in line.
Once all the valves are out, flip it over and inspect the valve guides. If they are cracked, they'll be cracked on the chamber side most likely. Sometimes a piece may even be missing. This is not a huge deal honestly, it will eventually burn up since the melting point of brass is below the temperature inside the chamber. Source - Corky Bell on this factiod.
That's about all that can be done other than cleaning and maybe some polishing. You may be tempted to port this yourself but honestly that is better left to a pro. Changing short side radius and long side radius can have detrimental affects in some cases and uneven flow is worse than stock. At most if you plan on putting the head back on in relatively untouched fashion, you can grind out the casting marks in the runners and maybe open the entry and exit ports. Like I said, avoid the radiuses(Radii?).
Now the problem. The guy who gave me the car is a ding-a-ling and forgot to put a seat on the #5 intake valve. This explained why the washer for the head stud was so hard to get in that spot since the valve could slide around.
That's all for head rebuild for now. Once the new Evo valvetrain comes in, I'll post more. Those valves are getting lapped in at a local place and I'll get the head tanked. I'll clean the casting marks before I send it off.
/brox
Why would I take this picture? Because it shows the relative direction of the cam cap in relation to the head and which side it is on. They are numbered however I wanted them to come off exactly how they were on so this marks the direction of the arrow.
Same thing here.
Step one, pull the caps. The Cam seals are often in there pretty well so you may have to pull the opposite side to pop it out. The bolts are 12mm and thorque is around 12-15 lbs if I remember.
Step two, eat double stuff Oreos before hands get too dirty. If you wait too long on this step the cookies will pick up oily garbage from hard work hands. As you can see, My hands are already showing some of this.
Step three, build or grab your spring compressor. Mine is a homemade one built from an 8' Husky c clamp and a spark plug socket I cut and JB welded on.
Here is how I cut the socket. You don't need alot of vertical material to hold it together. The socket metal is very strong so the strips left are probably a 1/4' or so. Only leave about 1/4' around the bottom ring as well.
Here is the Valve compressor in action. Basic premise, it pushed the cap down while holding the valve in place with the clamp face. The caps pop once they break free from the locks.
Close up of the compressor with the lock opening up. Just grab a magnet and pull them out. Release pressure on the clamp, remove the cap, spring and seat then push the valve through the valve seal. Don't slam the valve through the seal and catch it. If you can do that, you need new seals anyway. The top of the valve should get stuck and require some force to go through the seal.
Lots of baggies. When labeling these I do two things. I use two different types of bags, one for Intake one for Exhaust. Second, I mark from which side I started to pull them noted by the water outlet in the drawing. I only have to put this on the first bag since I know #2 will be next in line.
Once all the valves are out, flip it over and inspect the valve guides. If they are cracked, they'll be cracked on the chamber side most likely. Sometimes a piece may even be missing. This is not a huge deal honestly, it will eventually burn up since the melting point of brass is below the temperature inside the chamber. Source - Corky Bell on this factiod.
That's about all that can be done other than cleaning and maybe some polishing. You may be tempted to port this yourself but honestly that is better left to a pro. Changing short side radius and long side radius can have detrimental affects in some cases and uneven flow is worse than stock. At most if you plan on putting the head back on in relatively untouched fashion, you can grind out the casting marks in the runners and maybe open the entry and exit ports. Like I said, avoid the radiuses(Radii?).
Now the problem. The guy who gave me the car is a ding-a-ling and forgot to put a seat on the #5 intake valve. This explained why the washer for the head stud was so hard to get in that spot since the valve could slide around.
That's all for head rebuild for now. Once the new Evo valvetrain comes in, I'll post more. Those valves are getting lapped in at a local place and I'll get the head tanked. I'll clean the casting marks before I send it off.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
Here is what I need.
Page Break.
I clearly have too many pictures on this first page. I don't see any way to force a page break so what I really need is a few small textual replies of no importance to push the post number over 50 so I can move onto page 2.
So if you're reading this, make a post about anything, just to get me over the hump.
Thanks
/brox
Page Break.
I clearly have too many pictures on this first page. I don't see any way to force a page break so what I really need is a few small textual replies of no importance to push the post number over 50 so I can move onto page 2.
So if you're reading this, make a post about anything, just to get me over the hump.
Thanks
/brox
a2vr4
Well-known member
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
page break attempt.
Hope this helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
~Brian A. Moreno
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
page break attempt.
Hope this helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
~Brian A. Moreno
TRBODSM
Well-known member
On to page 3?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
broxma
Well-known member
There must be some setting. Replies per page maybe? I need to find that.
Edit: I can post a S-Ton of pictures but otherwise I am an idiot.
/brox
Edit: I can post a S-Ton of pictures but otherwise I am an idiot.
/brox
Last edited:
broxma
Well-known member
Some quick things. Many parts came in, however I am still waiting on word from the guy with the pistons and the valves. Most of the rest came in except the HG. Not that you care but this is for me really.
The valve cover, quick recap.
Originally as purchased.
With fresh crinkle paint.
Dry and finished now.
Now onto the engine bay. I wanted to pain the engine bay as it had shown signs of age and rust. I didn't want to spend a ton of money on paint so I went with an alternative color that was close to the A31 original but not dead on. Since it's under the hood, it's not a big deal for me honestly.
So we start by clearing the engine bay out. This is right after I got the motor and tranny out.
I planned on bagging the one harness on the passenger side and moving it to accommodate my painting needs. The drivers harness can go somewhere else.
Here is the extended drivers side harness. It goes into the fender and I had no desire to pull it through, so I didn't.
After cleaning, I simply shoved it down this hole and painted around the 3 inches of harness between the fender opening and the hole.
Here is the bay taped up with a bit of paint on it. The color looks alot more blue in the picture than it is. I'd say it is close to factory green maybe a shade or two lighter.
Here is the top of the subframe. I sanded a few spots earlier and am going back over a few with 320,600,1000 once it dries.
Just another picture of the passenger side.
Drivers side.
To get this finished required a few swaps. First I had to install the steering rack which I had taken off to replace the O-rings. No big deal. I squared the wheels a little better this time as well. Then I put the sturts back on to wheel the car out, wheeled it out, pressure washed, scrubbed, and rinsed it with denatured alcohol. Back into the garage, dropped the wheels, dropped the struts, etc. Game of chess really.
anyway, that's it for now. Once more stuff come in, more stuff will go up.
/brox
The valve cover, quick recap.
Originally as purchased.
With fresh crinkle paint.
Dry and finished now.
Now onto the engine bay. I wanted to pain the engine bay as it had shown signs of age and rust. I didn't want to spend a ton of money on paint so I went with an alternative color that was close to the A31 original but not dead on. Since it's under the hood, it's not a big deal for me honestly.
So we start by clearing the engine bay out. This is right after I got the motor and tranny out.
I planned on bagging the one harness on the passenger side and moving it to accommodate my painting needs. The drivers harness can go somewhere else.
Here is the extended drivers side harness. It goes into the fender and I had no desire to pull it through, so I didn't.
After cleaning, I simply shoved it down this hole and painted around the 3 inches of harness between the fender opening and the hole.
Here is the bay taped up with a bit of paint on it. The color looks alot more blue in the picture than it is. I'd say it is close to factory green maybe a shade or two lighter.
Here is the top of the subframe. I sanded a few spots earlier and am going back over a few with 320,600,1000 once it dries.
Just another picture of the passenger side.
Drivers side.
To get this finished required a few swaps. First I had to install the steering rack which I had taken off to replace the O-rings. No big deal. I squared the wheels a little better this time as well. Then I put the sturts back on to wheel the car out, wheeled it out, pressure washed, scrubbed, and rinsed it with denatured alcohol. Back into the garage, dropped the wheels, dropped the struts, etc. Game of chess really.
anyway, that's it for now. Once more stuff come in, more stuff will go up.
/brox
Last edited:
broxma
Well-known member
So here is the tear down of the motor section.
First, get motor on engine stand.
Engine on stand, check.
Second, Visual Inspection.
Inspection, check. Dirty. Leaky. Oily.
Third, remove the front case.
Case removed. Check. All 12mm bolts and a single 14mm if I recall. Prying it off is a bit of a pain.
Balance shafts. The rear is getting replaced with the stub, front is coming out entirely.
Block side of the case. Clearly some nasty burnt oil in there. Debate is ongoing as to if I have it dipped. Probably will.
Leading contender in the 'Why is it leaking some oil there?' arena. Broken pan stud in the block. Not my doing. Drill, tap, remove, chase.
Which socket to use to pop the Front shaft bearings out? This one. (Word of caution later)
Knocking the bearing out.
There's the bearing.
Magnet to pull it out and were good.
Now the back bearing. (And that aforementioned warning.)
Same socket on a long 1/2 extension.
On the rear bearing. WARNING: This socket is now stuck in the rear hole. The socket cleared the first hole easily, but it pressed itself into the rear hole. Now I am screwed. It is in there so tight I cannot remove it, it has no play or wiggle in it. It is all the way through and has no intention of coming out. I didn't realize it was in so tight until it was already too late. The bearing had just peeked out the other side by a mil or two and the socket was stuck. I spent several hours trying to get it out to no avail. I finally decided that possibly, it was bigger on the end and would slide through if I hit it some more. Not so much. So now it is stuck in the bearing hole. It is not going anywhere mind you, so I may simply leave it there. I'll talk to the machine shop guys and see what they say, but as for right now, My block off, is a MAC 32MM impact socket.
That's the motor so far. Pistons, rings, bearings and Rod studs will be next on the agenda for the motor. Another post.
/brox
First, get motor on engine stand.
Engine on stand, check.
Second, Visual Inspection.
Inspection, check. Dirty. Leaky. Oily.
Third, remove the front case.
Case removed. Check. All 12mm bolts and a single 14mm if I recall. Prying it off is a bit of a pain.
Balance shafts. The rear is getting replaced with the stub, front is coming out entirely.
Block side of the case. Clearly some nasty burnt oil in there. Debate is ongoing as to if I have it dipped. Probably will.
Leading contender in the 'Why is it leaking some oil there?' arena. Broken pan stud in the block. Not my doing. Drill, tap, remove, chase.
Which socket to use to pop the Front shaft bearings out? This one. (Word of caution later)
Knocking the bearing out.
There's the bearing.
Magnet to pull it out and were good.
Now the back bearing. (And that aforementioned warning.)
Same socket on a long 1/2 extension.
On the rear bearing. WARNING: This socket is now stuck in the rear hole. The socket cleared the first hole easily, but it pressed itself into the rear hole. Now I am screwed. It is in there so tight I cannot remove it, it has no play or wiggle in it. It is all the way through and has no intention of coming out. I didn't realize it was in so tight until it was already too late. The bearing had just peeked out the other side by a mil or two and the socket was stuck. I spent several hours trying to get it out to no avail. I finally decided that possibly, it was bigger on the end and would slide through if I hit it some more. Not so much. So now it is stuck in the bearing hole. It is not going anywhere mind you, so I may simply leave it there. I'll talk to the machine shop guys and see what they say, but as for right now, My block off, is a MAC 32MM impact socket.
That's the motor so far. Pistons, rings, bearings and Rod studs will be next on the agenda for the motor. Another post.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
There has been no update for along while, mainly due to incredibly slow shipping on the part of several individuals and vendors. Anyway, the pistons arrived. The bearings are here. Supposedly much stuff will be arriving this week and the parts should be off to the machine shop early next. That is the hope anyway. At this point, I have so many packages scheduled to arrive I have lost track who I bought stuff from or what it was. I may just wait a bit to see what eventually lands on my door before progressing for fear of buying the same thing twice.
/brox
/brox
HHIVR4
Well-known member
Nice work so far..Did you get the socket out yet?
+1 on the socket. Thats one shitty situation. Good luck
broxma
Well-known member
I did not. The socket is now part of the block as far as I can tell.
I am going to try and get it out soon but it's not a huge important issue for me. If it comes out it comes out, if not, ehh.
/brox
I am going to try and get it out soon but it's not a huge important issue for me. If it comes out it comes out, if not, ehh.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
Clearly there has been a delay. That delay has been parts arriving. Word to the wise. For the most part, vendors on ebay are timely with their delivery times as they have immediate reaction to their sales. The ability to hurt seller ratings directly, seems to actually get Ebay ordered parts to your door faster than going with Vendors directly on their websites. This premise has now been supported no less than 17 times during this build, with every Ebay vendor delivering in a timely fashion and only website ordered parts directly from vendors taking upwards of 20 days to arrive. All of the parts I ordered were common and could be dropped shipped. Barring a few clerical issues, delivery times for certain vendors I would consider, unacceptable. Anyway, onto the quick update.
Everything arrived. I have the Evo pistons getting pressed on the 1G rods, 4 sets of new OEM Evo Rings. All the head components arrived and the head is off to the machine shop for guide install and to re-seat the valves. The rods are getting new ARP bolts, will be milled down on the contact surface and re-bored to factory. The main bearings are in the block and I started to put together the side of the block I could get to with it on the stand.
The current situation with the block. The 32mm Matco Socket has now found a home as the block off bearing for the rear race and I am fine with that. I asked some knowledgeable people about what they thought about it and their biggest concern was, did I mind losing the socket. The remainder of the balance shaft delete went as planned, new MD part on the old shaft, 35mm freeze plug in the hole which I JB'd in from the back side. It was probably tight enough just pressing it in, but I figured the JB would help. New water pump, case got cleaned up and put back with a Mitsu OEM gasket. I didn't use the balance shaft pulley and opted for a shorter bolt with RTV on it. You can see it in the picture below.
So two surprises here. One the interior oil case cover has no gasket. This surprised me. Not sure why but it does. Second, the main case gasket does not call for RTV. This surprised me as well and even though I thought it might be a good idea to do, I didn't put any on per the manual. I may regret that later so if anyone has any input into this speak now. You can see the missing pulley where I just used the bolt. The backside of this section of the case is flat against the block so it can take a bit of extra torque. It called for 156 in/pnds but I think I went with 17 pounds straight. The tensioner was new, then it rusted over, so I cleaned it up and resprayed it. I am yet to put the oil filter housing on but it is a 90 housing which I will use to connect to the Volvo Cooler I showed earlier.
Now onto the problem
Hello there! So this is the fuel pump holder as pulled from the car. Oddly, the gasket remained in one piece, although I am getting a new one. One of the studs on the tank broke off when I removed it but it should be fine. My issue now is, the outlet line leaks. I have already plotted a solution for this. Since I am running -6 front to back for the feed, I got a -6 AN bulkhead fitting which will take the place of the current outlet. This will have a -6an to 3/8 barb fitting attached to it. The 5/16 hose from the pump will have to be squeezed over this barb fitting which I know is possible. I'll use injector line clamps on the pump and the barb fitting and it should be fine. I am going to gut off the stock 90 and drill it out for the bulkhead fitting and use rubberized washers between the bulkhead nuts. Other than the rust, problem solved.
Here is where the leak is, back of the hard line. Eventually the plan is to have -6 to a trickflow filter up front, -6 to the rear and -6 return from an FPR. I have everything but the FPR and some line right now, so my first step will be just to get the feed line completed. The return line I can worry about later as removing it is not as difficult.
That's it for now. Once the stuff gets back from the machine shop progress will be fast. I have everything lined up for the motor to go back together and go right in. My spring break is coming up the week after this so that is the projected date of first completion. I have a few things I need to get still and have thus far been unsuccessful at doing so.
More updates soon.
/brox
Everything arrived. I have the Evo pistons getting pressed on the 1G rods, 4 sets of new OEM Evo Rings. All the head components arrived and the head is off to the machine shop for guide install and to re-seat the valves. The rods are getting new ARP bolts, will be milled down on the contact surface and re-bored to factory. The main bearings are in the block and I started to put together the side of the block I could get to with it on the stand.
The current situation with the block. The 32mm Matco Socket has now found a home as the block off bearing for the rear race and I am fine with that. I asked some knowledgeable people about what they thought about it and their biggest concern was, did I mind losing the socket. The remainder of the balance shaft delete went as planned, new MD part on the old shaft, 35mm freeze plug in the hole which I JB'd in from the back side. It was probably tight enough just pressing it in, but I figured the JB would help. New water pump, case got cleaned up and put back with a Mitsu OEM gasket. I didn't use the balance shaft pulley and opted for a shorter bolt with RTV on it. You can see it in the picture below.
So two surprises here. One the interior oil case cover has no gasket. This surprised me. Not sure why but it does. Second, the main case gasket does not call for RTV. This surprised me as well and even though I thought it might be a good idea to do, I didn't put any on per the manual. I may regret that later so if anyone has any input into this speak now. You can see the missing pulley where I just used the bolt. The backside of this section of the case is flat against the block so it can take a bit of extra torque. It called for 156 in/pnds but I think I went with 17 pounds straight. The tensioner was new, then it rusted over, so I cleaned it up and resprayed it. I am yet to put the oil filter housing on but it is a 90 housing which I will use to connect to the Volvo Cooler I showed earlier.
Now onto the problem
Hello there! So this is the fuel pump holder as pulled from the car. Oddly, the gasket remained in one piece, although I am getting a new one. One of the studs on the tank broke off when I removed it but it should be fine. My issue now is, the outlet line leaks. I have already plotted a solution for this. Since I am running -6 front to back for the feed, I got a -6 AN bulkhead fitting which will take the place of the current outlet. This will have a -6an to 3/8 barb fitting attached to it. The 5/16 hose from the pump will have to be squeezed over this barb fitting which I know is possible. I'll use injector line clamps on the pump and the barb fitting and it should be fine. I am going to gut off the stock 90 and drill it out for the bulkhead fitting and use rubberized washers between the bulkhead nuts. Other than the rust, problem solved.
Here is where the leak is, back of the hard line. Eventually the plan is to have -6 to a trickflow filter up front, -6 to the rear and -6 return from an FPR. I have everything but the FPR and some line right now, so my first step will be just to get the feed line completed. The return line I can worry about later as removing it is not as difficult.
That's it for now. Once the stuff gets back from the machine shop progress will be fast. I have everything lined up for the motor to go back together and go right in. My spring break is coming up the week after this so that is the projected date of first completion. I have a few things I need to get still and have thus far been unsuccessful at doing so.
More updates soon.
/brox
524of1000
Well-known member
Everything is looking great man, I like tha block color as you can see immediatly if there are any leaks. Keep it up and thanls for the help on mine as well! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
broxma
Well-known member
So last we saw the fuel sender unit was an absolute mess. In addition to the rust the hard line leading from the sender to the feed line had at least one hole in it. I plotted the solution and ordered the new parts from Jegs. The plan was to use a -6an Bulkhead fitting and a 3/8 hose barb to -6an on the inside of the pump. Problem #1 stopped by when I got my new Walbro pump and realized two things. 1. the car already had a Walbro pump and 2. the new pump was the wrong one. The old one worked fine but I decided to swap in the new one since I had it, which meant getting busy trying to figure out how to mount it.
So this is what we started with. A rusty leaking sender unit with one properly mounted Walbro -341 pump.
Step one, cut this garbage off. I knew this was leaking anyway so it was either new sender or make this one work. I chose the latter.
This is the bulkhead fitting. It is -6an on both ends and requires a bulkhead fitting nut to hold it in place. I measured the mounting spot to drill the hole in the place of the now removed factory hard lines.
Here it is mounted in the housing. The fitting may not be air tight so I'll either get some rubber center washers or just use some RTV on it. One issue of note is that the new pump is a 342 which means the wrong one. This meant that the electrical connection was on the backside of the pump closest to the hanger. I decided I would run the electrical lines through the small hole on the hanger which you can see right behind the hose barb fitting nut. I had one problem though...
The wires would rub on that piece of metal, so I wrapped them in some small vacuum tube. This is the pump with the appropriate length of 5/16 hose attached with fuel injection clamps and the hose protecting the wires.
So since the pump was the wrong one it meant it would not line up. I simply removed the bottom hanger mount and moved it. It had two holes in it already so it almost appeared it was supposed to do this. This pulled the bottom of the pump closer to the hanger upright and kept it lined up. I did have to use the original rubber mount since the new one was clearly not correct.
Here is the sender with the pump mounted. With everything reconfigured you can see it lines up pretty well which also means the filter at the bottom will sit flat. Without doing this this pump probably still would have mounted up but the filter would have been at a pretty steep angle missing the last inch or two in the bottom of the tank.
This is the completed assembly. I used rust convertor on the top to get it back into decent shape and held the pump on with the supplied zip tie plus an additional one. I probably should put the rubber boot thing on the pump for some sound isolation however.
This is just another of the completed pump. You can see how the wires got fed through the rear hole and are protected by the vacuum line. Even routing the wires this way there were no hard bends to get the wires to their normal attachment points.
Onto the head...
Here is the head I got back from the machine shop. Two of the seats were below tolerance so I had to get new seats pressed in. They cleaned the stock valves for me, 3 angle grind on all the seats and valves, dipped the head, pressed in the new valve guides, and put the new valve seals on.
I didn't bother to take any pictures of the head going back together since it is simply reverse of dissassembly which I already covered. I did a light hand port job on both sides of the head to smooth out the casting marks and finished it with some 360 grit sandpaper, again by hand. The exhaust studs were replaced with some special ones of unknown origin but they have copper nuts and a small 6 point to torque them down with.
Intake side. Same story. I studded every hole on the intake side as well since we all know studs are stronger than bolts right? They are. Google it if you want to know exactly why.
And finished. One point to note is that the Factory Evo springs are beehive so the cap is smaller than the 1G spring top. The spring compressor I built fit the 1G caps really well but barely fit the Evo caps. I had to be careful to keep it lined up while I compressed them or they would cock off to one side. Even with my faulty tool, it only took me about an hour to put this back together. Cam caps torqued down to 14 lbs, new cam seals, light coat of RTV, lots of assembly lube. If you are new at rebuilding a head and do it yourself, be sure to get assembly lube on the valve stem itself especially near the top since it will be going through the valve seal which is a squeeze fit. Not lubing this will make it harder to get through and could cause problems.
Now I am waiting on 2 of my new Evo piston ring sets to arrive and getting everything else ready for the motor to go i. I got the brake booster/MC back into place after some refinishing.
Here it is.
Updates all this week.
/brox
So this is what we started with. A rusty leaking sender unit with one properly mounted Walbro -341 pump.
Step one, cut this garbage off. I knew this was leaking anyway so it was either new sender or make this one work. I chose the latter.
This is the bulkhead fitting. It is -6an on both ends and requires a bulkhead fitting nut to hold it in place. I measured the mounting spot to drill the hole in the place of the now removed factory hard lines.
Here it is mounted in the housing. The fitting may not be air tight so I'll either get some rubber center washers or just use some RTV on it. One issue of note is that the new pump is a 342 which means the wrong one. This meant that the electrical connection was on the backside of the pump closest to the hanger. I decided I would run the electrical lines through the small hole on the hanger which you can see right behind the hose barb fitting nut. I had one problem though...
The wires would rub on that piece of metal, so I wrapped them in some small vacuum tube. This is the pump with the appropriate length of 5/16 hose attached with fuel injection clamps and the hose protecting the wires.
So since the pump was the wrong one it meant it would not line up. I simply removed the bottom hanger mount and moved it. It had two holes in it already so it almost appeared it was supposed to do this. This pulled the bottom of the pump closer to the hanger upright and kept it lined up. I did have to use the original rubber mount since the new one was clearly not correct.
Here is the sender with the pump mounted. With everything reconfigured you can see it lines up pretty well which also means the filter at the bottom will sit flat. Without doing this this pump probably still would have mounted up but the filter would have been at a pretty steep angle missing the last inch or two in the bottom of the tank.
This is the completed assembly. I used rust convertor on the top to get it back into decent shape and held the pump on with the supplied zip tie plus an additional one. I probably should put the rubber boot thing on the pump for some sound isolation however.
This is just another of the completed pump. You can see how the wires got fed through the rear hole and are protected by the vacuum line. Even routing the wires this way there were no hard bends to get the wires to their normal attachment points.
Onto the head...
Here is the head I got back from the machine shop. Two of the seats were below tolerance so I had to get new seats pressed in. They cleaned the stock valves for me, 3 angle grind on all the seats and valves, dipped the head, pressed in the new valve guides, and put the new valve seals on.
I didn't bother to take any pictures of the head going back together since it is simply reverse of dissassembly which I already covered. I did a light hand port job on both sides of the head to smooth out the casting marks and finished it with some 360 grit sandpaper, again by hand. The exhaust studs were replaced with some special ones of unknown origin but they have copper nuts and a small 6 point to torque them down with.
Intake side. Same story. I studded every hole on the intake side as well since we all know studs are stronger than bolts right? They are. Google it if you want to know exactly why.
And finished. One point to note is that the Factory Evo springs are beehive so the cap is smaller than the 1G spring top. The spring compressor I built fit the 1G caps really well but barely fit the Evo caps. I had to be careful to keep it lined up while I compressed them or they would cock off to one side. Even with my faulty tool, it only took me about an hour to put this back together. Cam caps torqued down to 14 lbs, new cam seals, light coat of RTV, lots of assembly lube. If you are new at rebuilding a head and do it yourself, be sure to get assembly lube on the valve stem itself especially near the top since it will be going through the valve seal which is a squeeze fit. Not lubing this will make it harder to get through and could cause problems.
Now I am waiting on 2 of my new Evo piston ring sets to arrive and getting everything else ready for the motor to go i. I got the brake booster/MC back into place after some refinishing.
Here it is.
Updates all this week.
/brox
