524of1000
Well-known member
I like seeing the detail put into the car. It documents that you took the time to do things right. Mucho respect was ment.
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379/1000 First Start ....Build Log
- Thread starterbroxma
- Start date
381gvr4
Well-known member
Awesome detail! Not to bad for free and bartering!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
broxma
Well-known member
So I had to ante up and take the wife out tonight so that dragged me out of the garage. I did manage to get the shifter linkage adjusted and the car now goes through all the gears. Upon actually inspecting the linkage I realized I am going to take the entire thing out and clean it up. It's not pretty. I'll back that up with some evidence though.
Not pretty. I'll most likely rip the whole thing out, new hardware, bushings, paint,etc. I'm not happy with the spring tension on the shifter either so I'll see what I can do about that.
Onto the issue I'm going to try and tackle tomorrow, the Dash. So basically, it's broken. It is missing a vital piece below the column that the bottom cover screws into. In addition, the cover I have looks like butt. I'll be hunting a complete dash to replace it since the broken piece cannot reasonably be repaired.
Not sure how this picture came out but the plastic that runs across the bottom is off and missing. This means I only have 2 bolts and a single screw to hold that heavy lower cover on with. No bueno.
This is the other side where it should attach. Again, no bueno. I'd be shocked if the base model dash is not the same so I'll just find one of those in decent shape and see what I can do.
Next problem, trunk release. In short, the handle arm is so rusted it has twisted and the trunk won't open. In addition, the key I have must be a valet key because it doesn't open it. So I have the trunk in a permanent open position until I fix this issue.
So clearly this has oxidized. It is so fragile at this point it would probably break completely if I tried to use it again. I am sure the cable needs some lubrication and adjustment but this needs replacing. Speaking of, I checked and it is the exact same handle and arm on my Evo for both the trunk release and the gas tank so even if I couldn't get it off another Galant, the Evo works.
Now the question. I haven't seen this grille before but it came with the car. Anyone know what this is? The plastic is painted black so it's clearly not original to this car but I've no idea what it's off of.
Unknown (To me) Grille. Please identify.
Weather tomorrow is supposed to be in the upper 40's so junkyard is looking like a go. My list gets longer every day however. I also got the question from the wife today.
Wife - What are you going to do with that car?"
Me - "Drive it? What else would I do with it."
I think she is angling to take possession of my Evo again.
I also checked the ISC tonight and have infinite resistance between pins 1 and 2 so I'll scratch a new TB onto the list of parts I need. Should be easy to get.
/brox
Not pretty. I'll most likely rip the whole thing out, new hardware, bushings, paint,etc. I'm not happy with the spring tension on the shifter either so I'll see what I can do about that.
Onto the issue I'm going to try and tackle tomorrow, the Dash. So basically, it's broken. It is missing a vital piece below the column that the bottom cover screws into. In addition, the cover I have looks like butt. I'll be hunting a complete dash to replace it since the broken piece cannot reasonably be repaired.
Not sure how this picture came out but the plastic that runs across the bottom is off and missing. This means I only have 2 bolts and a single screw to hold that heavy lower cover on with. No bueno.
This is the other side where it should attach. Again, no bueno. I'd be shocked if the base model dash is not the same so I'll just find one of those in decent shape and see what I can do.
Next problem, trunk release. In short, the handle arm is so rusted it has twisted and the trunk won't open. In addition, the key I have must be a valet key because it doesn't open it. So I have the trunk in a permanent open position until I fix this issue.
So clearly this has oxidized. It is so fragile at this point it would probably break completely if I tried to use it again. I am sure the cable needs some lubrication and adjustment but this needs replacing. Speaking of, I checked and it is the exact same handle and arm on my Evo for both the trunk release and the gas tank so even if I couldn't get it off another Galant, the Evo works.
Now the question. I haven't seen this grille before but it came with the car. Anyone know what this is? The plastic is painted black so it's clearly not original to this car but I've no idea what it's off of.
Unknown (To me) Grille. Please identify.
Weather tomorrow is supposed to be in the upper 40's so junkyard is looking like a go. My list gets longer every day however. I also got the question from the wife today.
Wife - What are you going to do with that car?"
Me - "Drive it? What else would I do with it."
I think she is angling to take possession of my Evo again.
I also checked the ISC tonight and have infinite resistance between pins 1 and 2 so I'll scratch a new TB onto the list of parts I need. Should be easy to get.
/brox
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turbowop
Well-known member
That grill is an AMG piece. Nice little bonus if it came with the car.
Are you keeping or selling the grille?
+1 to the wopster,not a bad piece to come with the car, definitely a more rare piece than stock. Some prefer the stock appearance though.
+1 to the wopster,not a bad piece to come with the car, definitely a more rare piece than stock. Some prefer the stock appearance though.
524of1000
Well-known member
Damn.I wish I wasn't going to the inlaws or I'd come to the junkyard with you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
broxma
Well-known member
The junkyard run went pretty well today. I did however quickly realize that the first item removed off any Mitsubishi is the TB. There was not a single 4G63 equipped mitsu with a TB left or if the TB was there, the ISC was gone. There was even two groups of guys looking for one while I was there. I had an ace in the hole that they didn't however. I've been at this game a while and know that the NT 4G63 found it's way into many a junkyard Hyundai, something my interloping counterparts were unaware of. So I present to you the NT Hyundai TB.
The ISC tested ok with my ohmmeter and it is at least 60mm. The connections are the same except the idle switch which I'll swap from mine. I had found another on a 3.0 Galant V6 but the ISC tested bad on it and the TB position sensor was facing opposite to the 4G63 TB. Regardless, this one should work and cost me a whopping 21 dollars.
Now not only did this TB have the BISS still present, but even the factory rubber plug was there. I've never been a big fan of the TB elbow idea on the turbo cars. The NT TB hose mount will work much better with the Custom IC pipes.
I also found a base model Galant and got some stuff.
Trunk and gas lid handles. These are only held in by a single 10mm bolt but I ripped the carpet to get them out. The carpet was brown or I might have cared. Unfortunately the dash was also brown or I would have had a new dash in the garage. I also grabbed the radio mounts as mine are missing. The donor was an auto or I would have grabbed the shifter surround I'm missing.
This was the Valve cover off the Hyundai I got the TB from. I like the shaved look of it and it had no cracks. The black appears to be a factory color but I'll get it PC'd red so as to stay true to the car.
That's it for tonight. Supposedly the Donor Eclipse that has faithfully provided me so many parts, which currently resides on jack stands in my driveway, will be leaving me tomorrow. It has been a faithful parts car. It's presence will however not be missed. My wife and neighbors can only take so much white trash before they get uppity.
I'm starting school again next week but plan on finding a powdercoating place as well as an upholstery shop to fix some flaws in my seats. I'm also buying new coils for the ignition project tomorrow and will do a pretty heavy update when that goes in.
/brox
The ISC tested ok with my ohmmeter and it is at least 60mm. The connections are the same except the idle switch which I'll swap from mine. I had found another on a 3.0 Galant V6 but the ISC tested bad on it and the TB position sensor was facing opposite to the 4G63 TB. Regardless, this one should work and cost me a whopping 21 dollars.
Now not only did this TB have the BISS still present, but even the factory rubber plug was there. I've never been a big fan of the TB elbow idea on the turbo cars. The NT TB hose mount will work much better with the Custom IC pipes.
I also found a base model Galant and got some stuff.
Trunk and gas lid handles. These are only held in by a single 10mm bolt but I ripped the carpet to get them out. The carpet was brown or I might have cared. Unfortunately the dash was also brown or I would have had a new dash in the garage. I also grabbed the radio mounts as mine are missing. The donor was an auto or I would have grabbed the shifter surround I'm missing.
This was the Valve cover off the Hyundai I got the TB from. I like the shaved look of it and it had no cracks. The black appears to be a factory color but I'll get it PC'd red so as to stay true to the car.
That's it for tonight. Supposedly the Donor Eclipse that has faithfully provided me so many parts, which currently resides on jack stands in my driveway, will be leaving me tomorrow. It has been a faithful parts car. It's presence will however not be missed. My wife and neighbors can only take so much white trash before they get uppity.
I'm starting school again next week but plan on finding a powdercoating place as well as an upholstery shop to fix some flaws in my seats. I'm also buying new coils for the ignition project tomorrow and will do a pretty heavy update when that goes in.
/brox
Last edited:
broxma
Well-known member
Last few days I've been adjusting getting back in school. The Eclipse steering rack has a leak at the fitting which I am trying to stop ghetto style with some Lucas PS Stop Leak. I'm not optimistic and am prepared to just get a new rack if need be. I also cleaned up the shifter mount and adjusted the cables so it goes into all the gears easy now.
Little paint, greased the fittings and bushings. All good.
So I got two things in the mail. First was the Aerocatch flush mount hood locks and the coils for the new ignition system. I started working on the hood pins tonight but the Dremel is too loud and waking the wife up so I stopped. I did however take a good number of pictures in case anyone wants to do this. I am forced to do this as the new FMIC I am installing requires removal of the vertical hood latch support. The hood won't close now properly so I figured go with the flush pins.
This is what comes in the box. I got the locking style which was a bit more but since it's a street car I figured it was a better idea. These were about 90.00 shipped.
First I measured the spot I wanted them and drilled pilot holes for the pins. The hole here is actually in the wrong place but you get the idea. I drilled the wrong mark so I'll have to get this filled or something.
Small pilot hole which I hope to see through my "window".
Next, I measured the hole from several angles and transferred that to the top of the hood. Then I cut some 1" squares where I thought it would be. The latch mount is pretty large so I had a lot of wiggle room and wasn't to worried about being dead on.
Same hole, different side.
I mounted one of the pins in the predrilled hole and set the hood down to check the clearance.
I set the height so I could lock the latch onto the protruding pin. This way I can trace the outline of the latch and cut it with the dremel.
Here is is from the top. I can't cut the hole without pissing off the sleeping wife so the next step will have to wait until tomorrow.
The position of the latch on the driver side actually hits the hole for the prop rod on the hood. I have emailed Redline tuning about getting a strut system for the GVR4 since they don't offer one. I will be following up on that to see if any brackets can be made and they have a set of struts strong enough to lift the GVR4 hood. I have Redline hood struts on my out of commission WRX and will look at that setup to see if it can be moddified to work on the GVR4.
That is all really. The car appears to be burning oil at idle which I am suspecting the rings at the moment given the new valve seals and the turbo inspection I did. I may be putting new slugs in it before it actually gets back on the road.
/brox
Little paint, greased the fittings and bushings. All good.
So I got two things in the mail. First was the Aerocatch flush mount hood locks and the coils for the new ignition system. I started working on the hood pins tonight but the Dremel is too loud and waking the wife up so I stopped. I did however take a good number of pictures in case anyone wants to do this. I am forced to do this as the new FMIC I am installing requires removal of the vertical hood latch support. The hood won't close now properly so I figured go with the flush pins.
This is what comes in the box. I got the locking style which was a bit more but since it's a street car I figured it was a better idea. These were about 90.00 shipped.
First I measured the spot I wanted them and drilled pilot holes for the pins. The hole here is actually in the wrong place but you get the idea. I drilled the wrong mark so I'll have to get this filled or something.
Small pilot hole which I hope to see through my "window".
Next, I measured the hole from several angles and transferred that to the top of the hood. Then I cut some 1" squares where I thought it would be. The latch mount is pretty large so I had a lot of wiggle room and wasn't to worried about being dead on.
Same hole, different side.
I mounted one of the pins in the predrilled hole and set the hood down to check the clearance.
I set the height so I could lock the latch onto the protruding pin. This way I can trace the outline of the latch and cut it with the dremel.
Here is is from the top. I can't cut the hole without pissing off the sleeping wife so the next step will have to wait until tomorrow.
The position of the latch on the driver side actually hits the hole for the prop rod on the hood. I have emailed Redline tuning about getting a strut system for the GVR4 since they don't offer one. I will be following up on that to see if any brackets can be made and they have a set of struts strong enough to lift the GVR4 hood. I have Redline hood struts on my out of commission WRX and will look at that setup to see if it can be moddified to work on the GVR4.
That is all really. The car appears to be burning oil at idle which I am suspecting the rings at the moment given the new valve seals and the turbo inspection I did. I may be putting new slugs in it before it actually gets back on the road.
/brox
curtis
Well-known member
do a search under my name for hood struts, I built a set for mine. Have pictures and dimensions listed I believe. If you have a set now the hard parts over but you have to be very carefull around the strut towers not alot of room there.
broxma
Well-known member
Thanks for the tip. And to update, I sent that email to Redline at around, oh, midnight and I had a lucid, extremely helpful response waiting for me this morning. Brian for Redline said,
"...If this is the case, getting our hands on regular Galant might also be an
option. We are located in Dexter, Michigan. If you you or anyone in your
group or forum is near us, we can set up a meeting to review the vehicle
and install a system..."
So now this build post is sending out a call to anyone living near Dexter MI who is willing to have a set of hood struts installed on their GVR4. If someone is near there and willing, I will even help that person financially to defray any costs. I didn't ask Brian about any test monkey install costs but if there is any I'll gladly go out of pocket to see this get accomplished.
/brox
"...If this is the case, getting our hands on regular Galant might also be an
option. We are located in Dexter, Michigan. If you you or anyone in your
group or forum is near us, we can set up a meeting to review the vehicle
and install a system..."
So now this build post is sending out a call to anyone living near Dexter MI who is willing to have a set of hood struts installed on their GVR4. If someone is near there and willing, I will even help that person financially to defray any costs. I didn't ask Brian about any test monkey install costs but if there is any I'll gladly go out of pocket to see this get accomplished.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
I've decided to remove the AC and swap the alternator to the rear. Just ordered the Jay racing relocate kit. I have a plan but I'll unveil it later once it's done.
broxma
Well-known member
It's been a while since my last update mainly because I have been doing alot of small things to 379 and hunting specific parts. Little things have bothered me which I have remedied a few of. The Driver side door plastic had one part that wouldn't stay down so I got a new one. A few of the switch panels wouldn't stay in place so I got new ones. I needed some interior plastic trim parts I was able to find. Lots of little random stuff. The big thing I worked on was removing the AC and swapping the alternator to the rear.
I got the Jay Racing swap kit which arrived in 2 days even with a holiday. The kit looks nice and goes in fairly easy. I had to buy a new soldering gun as mine was not up to the task.
So this is it basically. The manifold is missing still however I already extended the wires at this point. The grinding on the block took a bit more time than I expected honestly and like most things, when you think it's been ground down out of the way, you reinstall and find out you need to take off more.
Just a more open picture of the same thing. Fortunately with the manifold off I was able to move alot of wires out of the way.
So here is the new found room I got with the alternator swap. I have considered swapping on an Evo manifold and Evo turbo but I will look at the logistics of that later. There is enough clearance for an intake to fit in the new opening but the DP would have to be custom which isn't a huge problem honestly.
Last I left it, the hood pins were about 1/2 way done. Well they are finished now. They look pretty damn good from the top but the underside is going to need some work. I am going to cut some aluminum covers for the bottom and hopefully not make it look like butt.
**Question Alert** (See bottom)
New JVT fans. Used the old school zip tie through the fins method of attachment. I also got an extra fan side plug from the junkyard so I could easily remove any wiring.
It is amazing where rust goes. These are the front speaker grills. I didn't like the rust so I taped them up so I could paint the grilles.
The result. The front speakers appear to be 5.25 which is a shame because my car came with some MTX 6" screwed into the factory plastic speaker mounts. What this meant is, the grilles won't fit on the door panel. After I painted them, I put the grilles back on the door panel, removed the factory speaker plastic mount, and screwed the 6" speakers directly to the door with a piece of foam between them and the door. The result? I could put an 8" speaker back there now if I wanted.
So this is a project for the near future.
What this is, is the factory oil cooler off a early-mid 90's Volvo 740 turbo. As you can see it has some thickness to it and is still compact. It looks to be at least as good as many aftermarket cores I have seen and the single sided inlet/outlet will make install fairly straight forward. It is going to go behind the removable grille piece where the vertical hood latch support used to sit. I'll make custom hoses to complete the kit. Cost for this nice little number you might ask? A huge 13.01.
Alot of work you can't see here. Many junkyard trips as well. I didn't have the felt dish bottom so I got one of those. I got the dual din radio bezel, radio brackets, etc. Installed the stereo which works incidentally. The shift boot is a leather one I found which I mounted to the factory boot holder. I had to remove the entire interior to achieve all of this which kinda sucked it. The shifter is off a 1G turbo, the knob I have no idea. I got the new brackets for the panel under the steering column and a new replacement plastic part to mount them too. New covers for switches, new coin holder to replace the open unused slot which was missing, tons and tons of stuff. Little things no one but me would care about.
**Question time**
Now the question. The sensor on the radiator is the signal to turn the fan on normally and the sensor in the back of the T-stat housing is the emergency switch(Above 210-215). Is this statement correct? My fan is installed but never turned on. Two issues. I don't have the radiator sensor installed and I don't have the rear T-stat sensor installed.
Anyway, Lots more to do. I'll be ordering a new PS rack since my ghetto fix didn't stop the current one from leaking. I might hunt down the FAQ on rebuilding it and see if I can fix it first though. Other than a bolt I need to fix, the fan, the rear brakes and the PS rack, she is right as rain. I am building some custom enclosures for some 6x9's in the rear deck area tomorrow. Hopefully I'll figure out the fan problem and be able to get it on the road in a week or two. As soon as it is road worthy, it is going for the custom FMIC, pipes, intake and brackets for the new oil cooler. Should be a good update then.
/brox
I got the Jay Racing swap kit which arrived in 2 days even with a holiday. The kit looks nice and goes in fairly easy. I had to buy a new soldering gun as mine was not up to the task.
So this is it basically. The manifold is missing still however I already extended the wires at this point. The grinding on the block took a bit more time than I expected honestly and like most things, when you think it's been ground down out of the way, you reinstall and find out you need to take off more.
Just a more open picture of the same thing. Fortunately with the manifold off I was able to move alot of wires out of the way.
So here is the new found room I got with the alternator swap. I have considered swapping on an Evo manifold and Evo turbo but I will look at the logistics of that later. There is enough clearance for an intake to fit in the new opening but the DP would have to be custom which isn't a huge problem honestly.
Last I left it, the hood pins were about 1/2 way done. Well they are finished now. They look pretty damn good from the top but the underside is going to need some work. I am going to cut some aluminum covers for the bottom and hopefully not make it look like butt.
**Question Alert** (See bottom)
New JVT fans. Used the old school zip tie through the fins method of attachment. I also got an extra fan side plug from the junkyard so I could easily remove any wiring.
It is amazing where rust goes. These are the front speaker grills. I didn't like the rust so I taped them up so I could paint the grilles.
The result. The front speakers appear to be 5.25 which is a shame because my car came with some MTX 6" screwed into the factory plastic speaker mounts. What this meant is, the grilles won't fit on the door panel. After I painted them, I put the grilles back on the door panel, removed the factory speaker plastic mount, and screwed the 6" speakers directly to the door with a piece of foam between them and the door. The result? I could put an 8" speaker back there now if I wanted.
So this is a project for the near future.
What this is, is the factory oil cooler off a early-mid 90's Volvo 740 turbo. As you can see it has some thickness to it and is still compact. It looks to be at least as good as many aftermarket cores I have seen and the single sided inlet/outlet will make install fairly straight forward. It is going to go behind the removable grille piece where the vertical hood latch support used to sit. I'll make custom hoses to complete the kit. Cost for this nice little number you might ask? A huge 13.01.
Alot of work you can't see here. Many junkyard trips as well. I didn't have the felt dish bottom so I got one of those. I got the dual din radio bezel, radio brackets, etc. Installed the stereo which works incidentally. The shift boot is a leather one I found which I mounted to the factory boot holder. I had to remove the entire interior to achieve all of this which kinda sucked it. The shifter is off a 1G turbo, the knob I have no idea. I got the new brackets for the panel under the steering column and a new replacement plastic part to mount them too. New covers for switches, new coin holder to replace the open unused slot which was missing, tons and tons of stuff. Little things no one but me would care about.
**Question time**
Now the question. The sensor on the radiator is the signal to turn the fan on normally and the sensor in the back of the T-stat housing is the emergency switch(Above 210-215). Is this statement correct? My fan is installed but never turned on. Two issues. I don't have the radiator sensor installed and I don't have the rear T-stat sensor installed.
Anyway, Lots more to do. I'll be ordering a new PS rack since my ghetto fix didn't stop the current one from leaking. I might hunt down the FAQ on rebuilding it and see if I can fix it first though. Other than a bolt I need to fix, the fan, the rear brakes and the PS rack, she is right as rain. I am building some custom enclosures for some 6x9's in the rear deck area tomorrow. Hopefully I'll figure out the fan problem and be able to get it on the road in a week or two. As soon as it is road worthy, it is going for the custom FMIC, pipes, intake and brackets for the new oil cooler. Should be a good update then.
/brox
524of1000
Well-known member
Looks like we have the same Radiator setup. I'm still in the process of installing mine as well. I f'ed up some of the fins a little /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif I', still working out the wireing because I'm running 2 slim fans. I'll give you a ring this weekend if I can to compare setups if you're not done by then.
broxma
Well-known member
most of the day today I spent working on angled MDF boxes for the 6x9's I want to put in the rear deck. I finished them entirely, covered and screwed into the deck only to find out, they are too high and hit the back glass. Utter waste of a day. I did start it up last night though and it sounds better for some reason. I was able to get the idle surge under some control which will have to do until I install the NT TB with the new FMIC. Tomorrow I may take another crack at the speaker risers but I'm ill of them at the moment.
/brox
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
This is what happens when you accidentally double click the submit button.
/brox
/brox
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broxma
Well-known member
I just realized how many pictures I have taken of all this. Seems like less than it is but I also realized I have had this car in my garage for more than 2 months now. Oddly, the wife hasn't complained about this as of yet.
Anyway, on with the documentation.
As is customary I went to the junkyard again today. I just missed a set of 4/2 calipers off a Nissan 300z. Of no use to me for this project but worth selling and making some scratch on. I went back to double check that the guys tearing at the Nissan were in fact taking the brakes and in my expeditions, I stumbled upon this.
Standard Black top CAS off a 94 NT. I had seen the car several times in the weeks prior but never noticed it. Picked it up and off I went. Due to a clerical error at the counter, I actually paid nothing for this part. Who am I to correct people at their job.
Braille small battery with little tray I made. This was originally in my friends WRX. I have one in my Evo with a much nicer tray and he wanted one. I made him one but he is now returning his WRX to stock so I traded him a stock battery for this. Another good deal.
The motor mount on my car was rusted a bit so I bought a new one at the yard and painted it. Result...
Bead blasted stock 1G intake. This is getting a black crinkle coat much like....
...The Hyundai smooth valve cover I painted crinkle black. The paint is currently still wet here but has started to pull up. I covered the letters with tape but had to bring it inside because it is so cold out tonight it wasn't drying. It will need more coats which I'll bust out tomorrow.
Just a closer shot of it. You can see the paint pulling up. The purple hue is from the flash.
Here is the old intake pipe off 381's car. I didn't want anything shiny in the engine bay so it got covered with the same paint as the timing belt cover and motor mount.
As of now, the interior is complete minus a few screws. I am modifying a factory Evo single din 3 gauge plate to accept larger gauges which will sit right below the radio. I also ordered a little touchscreen MP3 player thing to act as my music storage. I bought another side moulding trim on the passenger front door as it suffered the same problem as the driver's, one clip was broken. I got the push pins to attach the rear covers in the trunk and sprayed down the metal in the trunk with rubberizer to keep it from rusting.
I'm looking for a new pump assembly, a 255, and a few other things. Tonight I'm going to get pressure at the rear brakes and look at the power steering leak. I bought a metric o-ring variety kit today and am hoping I have a match in there. I also got some of them Sylvania silverstar light things for the headlights. I am still hoping to find a set of 93 headlights but I'll make due until then.
One last thing and this is not a sale.
This is free. I mean free to whomever wants it. If you're not local, pay me shipping. I don't need this anymore since I bought an unmolested a pillar to replace the one that was cut up and removed this. If you want this, just shoot me a PM and it's yours.
/brox
Anyway, on with the documentation.
As is customary I went to the junkyard again today. I just missed a set of 4/2 calipers off a Nissan 300z. Of no use to me for this project but worth selling and making some scratch on. I went back to double check that the guys tearing at the Nissan were in fact taking the brakes and in my expeditions, I stumbled upon this.
Standard Black top CAS off a 94 NT. I had seen the car several times in the weeks prior but never noticed it. Picked it up and off I went. Due to a clerical error at the counter, I actually paid nothing for this part. Who am I to correct people at their job.
Braille small battery with little tray I made. This was originally in my friends WRX. I have one in my Evo with a much nicer tray and he wanted one. I made him one but he is now returning his WRX to stock so I traded him a stock battery for this. Another good deal.
The motor mount on my car was rusted a bit so I bought a new one at the yard and painted it. Result...
Bead blasted stock 1G intake. This is getting a black crinkle coat much like....
...The Hyundai smooth valve cover I painted crinkle black. The paint is currently still wet here but has started to pull up. I covered the letters with tape but had to bring it inside because it is so cold out tonight it wasn't drying. It will need more coats which I'll bust out tomorrow.
Just a closer shot of it. You can see the paint pulling up. The purple hue is from the flash.
Here is the old intake pipe off 381's car. I didn't want anything shiny in the engine bay so it got covered with the same paint as the timing belt cover and motor mount.
As of now, the interior is complete minus a few screws. I am modifying a factory Evo single din 3 gauge plate to accept larger gauges which will sit right below the radio. I also ordered a little touchscreen MP3 player thing to act as my music storage. I bought another side moulding trim on the passenger front door as it suffered the same problem as the driver's, one clip was broken. I got the push pins to attach the rear covers in the trunk and sprayed down the metal in the trunk with rubberizer to keep it from rusting.
I'm looking for a new pump assembly, a 255, and a few other things. Tonight I'm going to get pressure at the rear brakes and look at the power steering leak. I bought a metric o-ring variety kit today and am hoping I have a match in there. I also got some of them Sylvania silverstar light things for the headlights. I am still hoping to find a set of 93 headlights but I'll make due until then.
One last thing and this is not a sale.
This is free. I mean free to whomever wants it. If you're not local, pay me shipping. I don't need this anymore since I bought an unmolested a pillar to replace the one that was cut up and removed this. If you want this, just shoot me a PM and it's yours.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
I picked up a set of 3000GT 4 piston brakes and 93 Galant headlights today. I have tried to be transparent with the wife about how everything is going and she has signed off on the real possibility that the block will be coming apart for pistons and rods.
I'm going to try and get into the PS leak and Q45 MC I got the other day tonight.
/brox
I'm going to try and get into the PS leak and Q45 MC I got the other day tonight.
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
This post begins what the kids in the schoolyard call a "Do-Over".
So I mentioned making my ambitions transparent with the wife. This basically has given me some latitude as to the direction this project will go from here. By keeping the wife in the loop, it is now not simply a project but rather a funded project with a budget. I have given myself an additional 900 or so to spend on this project and considering that it was at about 95% up to this point, that is alot.
Step one - Start over.
This is the engine bay as of last night. I realized that the smoke coming from the car at idle was probably due to the bottom end rather than the top. It could possibly be the turbo but my inspection of it prior to install tells me it's not. I figure, this is the stock motor, its got 150K on it, it probably has bad rings. Not a problem. I started the tear down in anticipation of new pistons. Oddly, I am only going to throw pistons in it, not rods as well. I don't plan on making more than maybe 350-400 WHP and the stock 1G rods are fine at that level. Doing this does two things. One, I don't have to drop another 4-700 on rods and two, it keeps me from having to actually pull the block. (More on this later).
In addition to the pistons, I'll be doing a balance shaft removal. This should put the cost of putting the pistons in somewhere in the 300-500 range depending on the price I get on the slugs. This leaves me with a short list of things to fix once the slugs are in.
The PS still has a leak but when the motor is apart, the transfer case will come back off, I'll drop the sway bar and try and repair it. If I can't repair it, I'll buy a new one. Best price I have seen for one is around 180 shipped.
The frame bolt on the passenger side plate still needs a fix. This will probably not cost me anything but will be a pain in the ass.
The rear diff is leaking at the drain bolt. New bolt or washer should fix.
I need to inspect the head and make sure it is together how I think it is, so it will come part for R&R while it's off. I'll probably do some minor work to it then. Valvetrain will wait for another few months.
I have better access to the engine bay with the engine apart which means I can better clean it up. Should look better than it does now, will probably try and paint some parts of it, at least the rails.
After this is done it is alot of little things, all of which I'll try and document best I can.
Onto new things.
93 headlights. I had to pay a bit for them but I wanted these. My factory 92's are totally fine and I'll probably sell them.
The 3000GT brakes I bought. The problem is, I have 98 GSX wheels and I am about 100% they won't fit underneath them. I am not sure if I'll get new wheels and try and fit these or let them go.
Here is the new Q45 Brake MC installed. Took about 30 minutes to get it in. Lines bend by hand really and it should solve my brake issue.
Tonight I am going to get into it a bit more. I'll do what I can for the sake of others at the expense of time.
/brox
So I mentioned making my ambitions transparent with the wife. This basically has given me some latitude as to the direction this project will go from here. By keeping the wife in the loop, it is now not simply a project but rather a funded project with a budget. I have given myself an additional 900 or so to spend on this project and considering that it was at about 95% up to this point, that is alot.
Step one - Start over.
This is the engine bay as of last night. I realized that the smoke coming from the car at idle was probably due to the bottom end rather than the top. It could possibly be the turbo but my inspection of it prior to install tells me it's not. I figure, this is the stock motor, its got 150K on it, it probably has bad rings. Not a problem. I started the tear down in anticipation of new pistons. Oddly, I am only going to throw pistons in it, not rods as well. I don't plan on making more than maybe 350-400 WHP and the stock 1G rods are fine at that level. Doing this does two things. One, I don't have to drop another 4-700 on rods and two, it keeps me from having to actually pull the block. (More on this later).
In addition to the pistons, I'll be doing a balance shaft removal. This should put the cost of putting the pistons in somewhere in the 300-500 range depending on the price I get on the slugs. This leaves me with a short list of things to fix once the slugs are in.
The PS still has a leak but when the motor is apart, the transfer case will come back off, I'll drop the sway bar and try and repair it. If I can't repair it, I'll buy a new one. Best price I have seen for one is around 180 shipped.
The frame bolt on the passenger side plate still needs a fix. This will probably not cost me anything but will be a pain in the ass.
The rear diff is leaking at the drain bolt. New bolt or washer should fix.
I need to inspect the head and make sure it is together how I think it is, so it will come part for R&R while it's off. I'll probably do some minor work to it then. Valvetrain will wait for another few months.
I have better access to the engine bay with the engine apart which means I can better clean it up. Should look better than it does now, will probably try and paint some parts of it, at least the rails.
After this is done it is alot of little things, all of which I'll try and document best I can.
Onto new things.
93 headlights. I had to pay a bit for them but I wanted these. My factory 92's are totally fine and I'll probably sell them.
The 3000GT brakes I bought. The problem is, I have 98 GSX wheels and I am about 100% they won't fit underneath them. I am not sure if I'll get new wheels and try and fit these or let them go.
Here is the new Q45 Brake MC installed. Took about 30 minutes to get it in. Lines bend by hand really and it should solve my brake issue.
Tonight I am going to get into it a bit more. I'll do what I can for the sake of others at the expense of time.
/brox
Last edited:
broxma
Well-known member
Motor is back apart, PS rack is off again and I think I have repaired it.
Here is the PS rack pictures for those who run into this problem.
These are the lines to remove to get the rack out. One hard line and one soft. The clamp connection to the steering wheel is a 12MM shallow head bolt. It is best to get the clamp bolt in an easy to reach place then remove the key and lock the wheel in place. Anyway, other than these two lines and the clamp, you got the transfer case in the way and the front sway needs to move. The sway can stay in place however, unbolted from the subframe.
This is the fitting on the rack, which appear to be braised on. The leak I had was at this particular fitting. The two hardlines connected to these fittings go back to the main valve body.
This is the inside of that line. The o-ring is a 6mm metric o-ring. It is quite thin in reality and the ones I got were much thicker. I am not sure if this will be a problem since I can't check it until the car is running again. I also put teflon tape on the fitting threads and snugged them up tight.
First line back on. The longer passenger side line fits over top of this one.
So as I said it's a do-over. I took the intake manifold off the other night then cleared some stuff up with the wife. Last night I spent a couple of hours getting the rest torn down.
Here is where I'm at as of last night. It may be possible that at least part of my problem was the headgasket. It had alot of water and oil on it when the head came off. It seemed that the head studs were not equally set somehow. This is just my impression but it felt that way. Anyway, here's the block.
Ugly look at the business side of the motor. All this is coming off to drop the balance shafts.
Inside the bottom end does not look nearly as pretty as the head. Lots of burnt oil here so lot's of cleaning ahead.
Balance shafts in case anyone can't see this anywhere else.
So this is what my oil looked like. Clearly this is not clean and it appears to be eating the RTV which you can see as the white river of stuff flowing vertically into the pan. The rest of that crap in there is the way I found it when I dropped the pan. I think it is a mixture of coolant and garbage but regardless it's all getting cleaned. It has forced me to reconsider the idea of only throwing slugs in and I am now going with rods as well.
I see alot of posts where people like to show off their motors with the slugs already in because it's a nice photo op. I'm not going to do that. Instead I'll go through exactly what I do during the procedure. This board is a bit different than most as alot of people on here have some idea what it is like to work on motor internals, but overwhelmingly, people are totally clueless when it comes to putting pistons and rods in a car. My experience thus far has affirmed my belief that about 5% of people who like sports cars and claim to work on them, have used more than a screwdriver and an oil filter wrench on their cars. Simple statistics. So I'll run through it all.
/brox
Here is the PS rack pictures for those who run into this problem.
These are the lines to remove to get the rack out. One hard line and one soft. The clamp connection to the steering wheel is a 12MM shallow head bolt. It is best to get the clamp bolt in an easy to reach place then remove the key and lock the wheel in place. Anyway, other than these two lines and the clamp, you got the transfer case in the way and the front sway needs to move. The sway can stay in place however, unbolted from the subframe.
This is the fitting on the rack, which appear to be braised on. The leak I had was at this particular fitting. The two hardlines connected to these fittings go back to the main valve body.
This is the inside of that line. The o-ring is a 6mm metric o-ring. It is quite thin in reality and the ones I got were much thicker. I am not sure if this will be a problem since I can't check it until the car is running again. I also put teflon tape on the fitting threads and snugged them up tight.
First line back on. The longer passenger side line fits over top of this one.
So as I said it's a do-over. I took the intake manifold off the other night then cleared some stuff up with the wife. Last night I spent a couple of hours getting the rest torn down.
Here is where I'm at as of last night. It may be possible that at least part of my problem was the headgasket. It had alot of water and oil on it when the head came off. It seemed that the head studs were not equally set somehow. This is just my impression but it felt that way. Anyway, here's the block.
Ugly look at the business side of the motor. All this is coming off to drop the balance shafts.
Inside the bottom end does not look nearly as pretty as the head. Lots of burnt oil here so lot's of cleaning ahead.
Balance shafts in case anyone can't see this anywhere else.
So this is what my oil looked like. Clearly this is not clean and it appears to be eating the RTV which you can see as the white river of stuff flowing vertically into the pan. The rest of that crap in there is the way I found it when I dropped the pan. I think it is a mixture of coolant and garbage but regardless it's all getting cleaned. It has forced me to reconsider the idea of only throwing slugs in and I am now going with rods as well.
I see alot of posts where people like to show off their motors with the slugs already in because it's a nice photo op. I'm not going to do that. Instead I'll go through exactly what I do during the procedure. This board is a bit different than most as alot of people on here have some idea what it is like to work on motor internals, but overwhelmingly, people are totally clueless when it comes to putting pistons and rods in a car. My experience thus far has affirmed my belief that about 5% of people who like sports cars and claim to work on them, have used more than a screwdriver and an oil filter wrench on their cars. Simple statistics. So I'll run through it all.
/brox
