Vman911
Well-known member
I got one side done. Need to replace wheel bearing on other side. Looks good with the 12.5" rotors. I had to space out 5/8" to clear the rims.
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3000GT brakes installed.
- Thread starter Vman911
- Start date
Nice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif. How much thread did you have left for the lug nuts to bite? I also notice you still still have the 4 lug setup.
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atc250r
Staff member
Quoting Vman911:
I had to space out 5/8" to clear the rims.
That sounds really dangerous.
I had to space out 5/8" to clear the rims.
That sounds really dangerous.
I agree, which is why I ask about the lug nuts. You either need a wheel with a better offset or stronger & longer wheel studs.
atc250r
Staff member
I don't know if I'd even trust longer/stronger lugs with that much of a spacer. Get different wheels before you cause an accident. If it was only 1/4" or so I'd say it'd be OK but 5/8" is a lot.
John
John
That looks like a Project KICS spacer, but without the hub-centric rings.
Lonewolf64
Well-known member
Am I right that the ebrake has to be sacrificed to fit these on the rear? Or did you build a custom bracket to attach the ebrake line?
atc250r
Staff member
If you put 3KGT rear brakes on the rear you will lose the e-brake. There is no bracket that can be made since they don't have the e-brake built into the calipers, its a totally separate set up.
John
John
Vinman just reminded me that he's running the spacers with the lugs attached. Hence there's no issue with lugs being secured to them.
belize1334
Well-known member
Is this 1G or 2G 3si calipers? Reason I ask: 1G has bore of 2.15" while 2G has bore of 1.68" making the 2G a "closer" match (in terms of total piston area) for use with DSM proportioning valve.
1g
DougPorcaro
Well-known member
My friend's Evo has 1" spacers of that same style on all 4 wheels. They have been on for about a year. People run that style spacer all the time, even at widths greater than 1" and have no problems.
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Quoting atc250r:
If you put 3KGT rear brakes on the rear you will lose the e-brake. There is no bracket that can be made since they don't have the e-brake built into the calipers, its a totally separate set up.
John
True, but you can fit a 3KGT rear end (almost identical) and use the 3KGT hubs which have a drum E-Brake. Then you can fit your 3KGT calipers to the rear and keep your E-Brake. More work but worth the effort if you want better rear brakes and still considerably easier than doing something completely custom.
If you put 3KGT rear brakes on the rear you will lose the e-brake. There is no bracket that can be made since they don't have the e-brake built into the calipers, its a totally separate set up.
John
True, but you can fit a 3KGT rear end (almost identical) and use the 3KGT hubs which have a drum E-Brake. Then you can fit your 3KGT calipers to the rear and keep your E-Brake. More work but worth the effort if you want better rear brakes and still considerably easier than doing something completely custom.
dime2nr
Well-known member
do you have more details
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Okay these are the pictures, they aren't brilliant and I wish that I had taken pictures 'prior' to installation as it would make things much clearer to explain.
Okay to recap, the main advantage to doing this is that on the 3KGT, the e-brake is a drum design incorporated into the rear hub, NOT into the caliper. By using a 3KGT rear end with lower 'trailing' arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT 'trailing' arms bolt straight in without modification.
Track at the rear will be slightly wider. Given that the rears usually tuck further than the fronts, on stock wheels this is actually a plus because it balances out the track nicely. If however you have used after market wheels with a different offset or have used spacers to bring the rears out already, be aware of the fact that the rears will probably sit proud.
At this stage the remaining modifications you will/may need to do are as follows. Unless you plan on using stock 3KGT rear calipers, you will need to make brackets for your new calipers. I am using AP calipers but remember even if you use 3KGT four pots, they came stock at the front, NOT the rear, so you will still need brackets to install them in the rear.
If you have already done a 5 lug conversion you can stick with the 3KGT hubs. If not you will need to do some modifications to retain the drum e-brake and install it on the 4 lug hubs. I cannot remember if this involved any machine work but if anyone needs to retain 4 lugs and runs into problems, I'll try to get the full information on this part. In retrospect doing this in conjunction with a 5 lug swap would have made more sense as it offers more wheel choices. I had already purchased 4 lug wheels when I did this so I stuck with the original hubs.
Lastly, if I recall correctly we used the stock 3KGT rear rotors as the 'hats' for the new AP rotors and just turned them down and drilled them. Again I cannot remember exactly, but I believe that this was necessary because the design of the stock rotor includes an interior face to contact with the pads of the drum e-brake.
Edit: Thinking about this more, perhaps this was the machining work that I remembered being involved. Seeing as I retained 4 lug hubs, it may well be that we had to machine the interior of the stock 4 lug rotors to accommodate the e-brake before turning them down and drilling them to attach the newer larger diameter rotors. So again if you go to a 5 lug setup you may save yourself some work.
This was all done a while ago so I'm a bit rusty on details. I know some other members including Toybreaker have explored this since I did it, so they may have the parts at hand off the car to offer more information. There is however minimum customization involved. The parts are all stock Mitsubishi and bolt up. I am actually surprised more people have not heard about this swap/mod, since retaining the e-brake is a common problem when going to larger rear calipers. This eliminates the need for any complicated hydraulic set up. I happened upon this method of doing things, because vehicle inspection regulations over here state that an e-brake MUST be cable operated. This was the only way I could get around the issue. There are other options out there but I still maintain that this is one of the cleanest, safest and more importantly, one of the simplest ways to do it!
Okay to recap, the main advantage to doing this is that on the 3KGT, the e-brake is a drum design incorporated into the rear hub, NOT into the caliper. By using a 3KGT rear end with lower 'trailing' arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT 'trailing' arms bolt straight in without modification.
Track at the rear will be slightly wider. Given that the rears usually tuck further than the fronts, on stock wheels this is actually a plus because it balances out the track nicely. If however you have used after market wheels with a different offset or have used spacers to bring the rears out already, be aware of the fact that the rears will probably sit proud.
At this stage the remaining modifications you will/may need to do are as follows. Unless you plan on using stock 3KGT rear calipers, you will need to make brackets for your new calipers. I am using AP calipers but remember even if you use 3KGT four pots, they came stock at the front, NOT the rear, so you will still need brackets to install them in the rear.
If you have already done a 5 lug conversion you can stick with the 3KGT hubs. If not you will need to do some modifications to retain the drum e-brake and install it on the 4 lug hubs. I cannot remember if this involved any machine work but if anyone needs to retain 4 lugs and runs into problems, I'll try to get the full information on this part. In retrospect doing this in conjunction with a 5 lug swap would have made more sense as it offers more wheel choices. I had already purchased 4 lug wheels when I did this so I stuck with the original hubs.
Lastly, if I recall correctly we used the stock 3KGT rear rotors as the 'hats' for the new AP rotors and just turned them down and drilled them. Again I cannot remember exactly, but I believe that this was necessary because the design of the stock rotor includes an interior face to contact with the pads of the drum e-brake.
Edit: Thinking about this more, perhaps this was the machining work that I remembered being involved. Seeing as I retained 4 lug hubs, it may well be that we had to machine the interior of the stock 4 lug rotors to accommodate the e-brake before turning them down and drilling them to attach the newer larger diameter rotors. So again if you go to a 5 lug setup you may save yourself some work.
This was all done a while ago so I'm a bit rusty on details. I know some other members including Toybreaker have explored this since I did it, so they may have the parts at hand off the car to offer more information. There is however minimum customization involved. The parts are all stock Mitsubishi and bolt up. I am actually surprised more people have not heard about this swap/mod, since retaining the e-brake is a common problem when going to larger rear calipers. This eliminates the need for any complicated hydraulic set up. I happened upon this method of doing things, because vehicle inspection regulations over here state that an e-brake MUST be cable operated. This was the only way I could get around the issue. There are other options out there but I still maintain that this is one of the cleanest, safest and more importantly, one of the simplest ways to do it!
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belize1334
Well-known member
Quote:
By using a 3KGT rear end with lower control arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT control arms bolt straight in without modification.
So you need to use both the 3kgt control arm AND the 3kgt trailing arm/hub? Would the OEM control arm not bolt onto the 3kgt trailing arm/hub? Also, is it just the 1G rear-ends that are compatible or could it be done for 2G stuff as well? Lastly, has anybody experimented with swapping the front hub assembly (negating the need for caliper mount adapters)?
By using a 3KGT rear end with lower control arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT control arms bolt straight in without modification.
So you need to use both the 3kgt control arm AND the 3kgt trailing arm/hub? Would the OEM control arm not bolt onto the 3kgt trailing arm/hub? Also, is it just the 1G rear-ends that are compatible or could it be done for 2G stuff as well? Lastly, has anybody experimented with swapping the front hub assembly (negating the need for caliper mount adapters)?
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cheekychimp
Well-known member
Sorry my bad terminology. You just need the lower "trailing" arm. Stock control arms should bolt up. I have Andre's adjustable control arms however so you should check if the wider track affects the suspension geometry. I think that the wider track is caused by different design of the hubs though, so you should be good.
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BrandonEchols
Well-known member
Has anyone else done this?
Is this the "trailing arm" assembly that's being discussed?
Is this the "trailing arm" assembly that's being discussed?
RedTwo
Well-known member
Yeah that's the bit, I've got it on my car right now. It should all bolt up but will push the wheels further outwards. The handbrake cables are longer so you need to hack up your handbrake adjustment bolt to get it work. I should probably update my progress on this....
kartorium
Well-known member
How much wider are we talking here in the rear?
Looks like by using the 3kgt arm you also get the added benefit of losing the "active toe" crap? Or did the 3kgt have the flexible setup too?
Looks like by using the 3kgt arm you also get the added benefit of losing the "active toe" crap? Or did the 3kgt have the flexible setup too?
