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turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
my opinion? i hate re-painted OEM wheels. and when i say paint that includes: rattle can, gravity fed, plastidip, powdercoat, brushed on, vinyl wrapped, etc /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
you want a custom look to your wheels, then buy aftermarket wheels. want OEM look, rock OEM wheels... just my thoughts.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Dustin

I typically agree! but these are already white so that is where I'm at with it. They don't NEED to be redone but I might as well while they are off the car.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
nothing new, just been driving it. I have 5 lug swap all ready to go, deciding on paint for my evo wheels and have to replace a wheel bearing. Not in any hurry, don't want to put sticky summer tires on in time for cold rainy winter weather here.

I have IS300 wheels from a friend ready to go on for winter but I need to get snow tires for them and make sure they even fit on the car. They have really high offset.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
just clicked through the progress and congrats man, its been about a year and the car has come leaps and bounds from where it started.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Thanks dude, yeah I got it in the first week of December. It has definitely come a long way in the year I've had it. Hopefully things will continue to progress, I have just been broke lately so haven't done much. But the car has been running good and I enjoy driving it every time. Such a fun, cool car.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
because I give zero shits and the bushes are soft and flimsy. I park my truck in the thorny ones.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Replaced my ECU because it showed water damage and got my throttle body rebuilt. Threw it all in just now and have been experiencing idle surge. I am pretty sure I got all the air bubbles out of the coolant, but I don't see any obvious vac leaks? Any thoughts? Car runs and drives ok but has idle surge at a stop.

What is the % value supposed to be for the closed TPS position? My datalogger reads 13.6%, shouldn't it be lower? At WOT it goes to nearly 100%. I don't think that closed position would cause idle surge.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
My first guess for the idle surge would be a mis-adjusted BISS. Turn off the car, and screw the BISS all the way in until it bottoms out. Then, unscrew it 3 complete turns, and see if the car still surges. I'm assuming there are no vac leaks, boost leaks, yadda yadda yadda...

As far as the logger goes, it has been years since I've used one. However, I don't understand why idle wouldn't read 0, and WOT read 100%. After all, that logically makes sense. Sounds to me like the TPS isn't adjusted properly, so adjust it before you go screwing with the BISS.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
The BISS is screwed in all the way. If I come out with it it just idles higher, and still idle surges. The guy who rebuilt my throttle body I am sure put the TPS to spec as that is part of his services, but maybe not. Is it the throttle stop switch or the TPS that adjusts what % the throttle plate closes to at idle?

Before I took the throttle body out I think the TPS still didn't show a 0%, it was closer to 9-11% I think.
 
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coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
As far as I know the only boost leaks on the car was the throttle shaft seals and those were replaced. I put everything back the way it was before, but maybe there is a new leak somewhere. I double checked everything though.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
If the BISS is completely bottomed out and you're still surging, there's an underlying issue.

The "throttle stop switch" (more commonly known as the idle switch) should be adjusted so that it is triggered when the throttle is completely closed, but not so it hinders the throttle plate from completely closing in any way. If it is holding the throttle plate open even a tiny amount, it's wrong.

The TPS is adjusted by loosening the 2 little screws that hold it to the TB. You can then move it either direction so that resistance value is in spec at both closed throttle and WOT. Spec here ---> click

I would adjust it manually according to the article above, rather than go by whatever your logger is saying. Reason being, neither of us know what the hell the closed throttle and WOT reading on your logger should be, so that makes it pretty hard to make accurate adjustments.


Actualllllllllllllllly just fuckin watch this: click
 
Last edited:

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
I'm feeling like I installed the throttle body gasket wrong, but I can't find a diagram to show what was the right way.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
I fixed it. Like an idiot I put the gasket in the wrong way. Car still idles high though, close to 1900 rpm. cable isn't tight on the throttle body and biss screw is all the way in.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Nope, I don't have a multimeter. According to the throttlebodys.com guy it should have all been put in spec. But maybe not?
 
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