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coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Thanks, I am mechanically inclined and typically DO all my own mechanical work, but bigger jobs or other things right now go to my mechanic as I am out of space to work on the car. But yes I have been feeling very stupid and yes this is a job I could have done myself. This is what I get for going the easy way, and believe me I already have learned that lesson a few times coming from a background of modified turbo volvos… <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif" alt="" />

Let's just hope nothing is screwed up and I can move forward from this.
 

turbohf

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
sucks man. reminds me of mine though. i had mine going for just a little while. started hearing funny noise, check it out, dont see anything. then notice my timing belt is fraid on one side. the balance shaft belt broke, bent the plate between the two belts and was cutting into the timing belt! luckily caught it before it broke/jumped time.

i had a good friend thats a DSM guru help me out/do it. i have done tons of Honda DOHC/VTEC motors, was little scared to do something different without someone watching me.
 

89Mirageman

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Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
There are a few guys on here from Washington state. I'd find one with a garage and make friends with them. From what I've seen most people on here will bend over backwards to help someone out. I learned early on in my car modding days to just work on my own stuff. No need to pay someone to screw your car up.

As far as the oil pump being out of phase I bet if he would have went a few more rounds it would have lined up.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Welp, Christmas has been good to me and I'm ready to start throwing many dollars at the galant to get it fixed up. Hopefully will be getting the timing checked out by next weekend, got a lot of parts headed my way for various stuff. Sad I can't drive it but I can wait for now. Been driving my truck and carpooling so life isn't so bad.

I am anxious to be driving it again though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Car is in the shop right now, getting mt90 in the transmission, new front wheel bearings, and new wheel studs for the driver front. Found out they were cross threaded upon taking the wheel off for timing belt stuff. Still have not had timing belt checked out yet, but different shop is less than a mile away. Hopefully getting that checked out in the next few days.

About to order a pile of stuff for the Galant coming up also:

-ABS delete kit
-braided brake lines
-non cruise throttle cable
-throttle body shaft seals

and some parts for my spare engine:

-EGR blockoff
-FIAV bypass
-ARP head to exhaust manifold bolts
-BSE

slowly but surely. waiting on some good weather for a detail. Maybe tomorrow? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
should I get the FIAV bypass or the block off? JNZ has both. Also, any sensors or any other type of maintenance stuff I should get at this time? I am also getting new coolant hoses for the radiator and the heater core, although may skip since I think they are still in good shape. The radiator is coming out at some point though, I plan to remove the AC and I want all that crap out of the front of my radiator. AC is kinda pointless in Seattle, I have never needed it. Not sure if it works anyway and would rather lose the weight. Maybe the AC stuff would sell to someone down south? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
ARP head to exhaust manifold bolts

I just went with new stock mmc bolts and copper nuts with ss washers. Arp is nice but expensive. Not sure if its worth the extra expense here.

I bought the ARP exhaust manifold to turbo bolts.
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
sorry, yeah I meant the manifold to turbo ones. I am going to replace the manifold to head ones though as well, though likely not ARP. I am not planning to run a buttload of power.
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Really shitty, guy I bought the car from used the wrong lug nuts, all of my wheel studs seem to be jacked up now. Idiot…


Pretty bummed, almost feel like buying this car was a mistake.
 
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tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
Order in bulk. Or get used.
Who would purposely cross thread all there lugs and feel safe?
 

EHmotorsports

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting coyotes:</font><hr />
Really shitty, guy I bought the car from used the wrong lug nuts, all of my wheel studs seem to be jacked up now. Idiot…


Pretty bummed, almost feel like buying this car was a mistake.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

same guy that said you can lap the valves in without pulling the head.
 

EHmotorsports

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
We'll it's still worth it as the car looks practically rust free:)
 

coyotes

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Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
There is no rust, I checked it out pretty thoroughly. I'm feeling better about the car now, was pretty mad earlier. Just gotta suck it up and move on.
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Gave the car a bit of love today, it needed some self esteem after the troubles it's had lately.

First off, gave it some fresh NGK plugs and wires, then cleaned the engine bay. I forgot to do a before, but here it is now. I plan on doing some more passes to really get the details.




and I gave it a wash. The car really needs a detail, but weather/temperature has prevented that for the meantime. You can see the only flaw in the paint, some clear coat peeling further back on the passenger side + faded trim. The car will be very slick once I get it detailed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif




Can anyone tell me what these lines go to? They are not hooked up, I couldn't see where they go. They are coming out from under the coil pack. For now, I just stuck them together. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif




I am off to detail the interior now. Maybe I'll post up some pictures later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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EHmotorsports

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
The hoses go to the fuel pressure and Waste gate control. Also the canister lines. The bracket under the intake will have some hard lines attached to it.
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
OK, seems the engine has had some vac lines switched around:

-waste gate is running off the nipple on the hard pipe coming off the turbo to the intercooler. Sounds very wrong.
-FPR is running off a nipple towards middle front of the intake manifold
-Boost control solenoid is not fully hooked up, there is a funky loop that doesn't do anything and one line isn't hooked up
 
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EHmotorsports

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Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
the FPR is ok bypassed but if you were worried about hot starting then you can install it again.

wastgate is ok for now as its just running off of the wastegate spring.

and I looped the boost control solenoid as it was a MAJOR vac leak before so you could get home. and make a deal with that "guy".
 
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coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Ok thanks for the information! I feel like the car is running a lot better with the new plugs/wires and capping those other two extra vacuum lines. Car seems to still idle a bit high, but I can deal with that for now.

Also I don't think the car has a charcoal cannister anymore, looked around for it but didn't see one.
 
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