The honeycomb plus the volute at the inlet are there to create well defined, stable, straight flow lines so that vortice generation is predictable. Vortex creation happens when the air crashes into the "dividers" which are actually the vortex columns responsible for disrupting the flow. If...

3G / Evo MAFs are Karman Vortex MAFs. Hence the honeycomb. It's needed to "straighten" the air for accurate measurement.

Top Left (with the red arrow in the picture) is the return line from the front rack Bottom Left is the suction hose going to the main PS pump Top Right (plugged) is the return from the rear rack Bottom Right is the feed to the rear rack's pump

Do these help? https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/eliminating-4ws-or-ps-cooler-power-steering-reservoir-pics.955/You can cap them or loop it with some hose.

Yep. White one. Was going to Purdue at the time.

Boo. Don't do it. You know you'll regret it. Find a place for it. Hold on to it. I remember years ago at Lance's that car being clean. It's still clean....keep it.

The ECU (all GVR4s) has an eeprom. It's the IC with the E943 sticker on it.The 2nd is the clock module. It goes up under the dash on the driver side.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll go with a SB Kevlar. Seems like it has few complaints from here or other DSM'ers.Can't figure out what's wrong with my CF though :LOL:In all fairness, it was the victim of a failed slave cylinder, cold day, and 24 lbs of boost, and a driver that said "shift...

My Centerforce finally gave up. Love the clutch. It's always been the weak point though. It could never hold what the car wants to give so I've always dialed it back to the limit of what it would tolerate. Car makes 400 ft lbs on 93 could probably be 450+ on E85 but the one time I tried, the...

When my palm died, I got Tunerpro to work with a USB/serial adapter. Does fine. I was already using it for tuning with an Ostrich so it made sense + =free

It's said to be a terrible boost gauge because it isn't actually one. It is an approximated boost level based on the MAF signal to the ECU. It therefore, only approximates boost in a stock setup where the airflow/pressure correlation is known to the ECU. Change anything affecting airflow and...

(sorry - short threadjack) Not quite drop in. You'll have to modify the line routing and preferably, re-flare the ends with the correct bubble flare. There's been people that just cram the inverted flares in there and hope for the best. I'm good with hack jobs on some things but brakes...

I think with ecmlink you can adjust setting to basically let you run with a simulated iat. You can probably play around with that and rule out the sensor if you don't otherwise have diagnostic/test equipment at your disposal to test it off the car.Otherwise screw Get Go for taking away my...

I haven't put any in the galant but I did in the CTS-V before I realized they had switched. It was not a happy car! Idle was wandering, knock retard was problematic, and I got horrible gas mileage that tank. (ok...11.2 vs 12.5... it's always horrible but worse than normal horrible)If it's...

Did this just start happening as our weather turned hellish?Does it go away when the car's warmed up?Or - did you fill it up at a BP station that used to be Rickers, now Get Go with typical sh*t Get-Go gas?

Spring perch on stock DSM rear shocks is slightly higher than the galant and thus is so on the DSM agx as well. Because the stock springs are soft enough and the front sits higher, it's not as noticeable with stock vs lowering springs. But when it was my setup, stock springs and AGX were raked...

Broken M8 bolt for something that can't get out and up on to the Bridgeport - my typical approach:1. Spray with penetrant oil - let sit, spray again 2. Die grinder or dremel with a burr/stone/diamond depending on what's left sticking out - shooting for a flatish surface 3. Prick punch, use a...

Maybe worth checking the throttle position sensor. A worn spot can cause symptoms similar to what you describe - hesitation, bucking, etc. Your foot and mind will play tricks on you, convinced it's boost or RPM related when really it's how you use the throttle in that operating envelope...

It's made up of multiple PNs for all the pins and bushings, etc. but the levers are: MD735587 & MD719188[/url][/img]

The front caliper is good!The rear caliper is badA1 Cardone must imply that your car is "done" for. What crap! First a frozen piston on the front rebuilt caliper. I went to fill and bleed the system and the rear rebuilt caliper starts pissing out the parking brake arm. I took it...

Just for posterity and follow up: I was patient and ended up grabbing a new 350mm Momo Race on sale and with holiday coupon off ebay for $170 and got a corresponding adapter. I mocked it up on the car this morning while it sits waiting for a brake caliper. Perfect! Right size, right look...

Thanks for the offer. I might take you up on it but first I'll see if I got a lucky. Some phone calls yesterday and I found one in stock. If it shows up and is correct and functional I may be out of the woods. If not, I'll pm you about the one you have.

It seems the car is officially too old - even normal replacement parts like rebuilt calipers are hard to find. I've exhausted every outlet I can find to get a reasonably priced rebuilt front, left caliper. Nada. The last one in stock, possibly in existence was DOA with a frozen piston. The...

The chart I have for R134A says high side of 275-300 at 95F ambient which it was in the garage that day but I remember being closer to 240-250 when I charged it last time (~2.5 times ambient temp).It wanted to go above 300 until the condenser fan would kick into high gear at 300psi like it was...

30 minutes at 29". I actually vac'd it and then had to leave it alone for a week. When I put the gauges back on it was still at 29". I turned the vacuum on for good measure while the car warmed up for 10-15 minutes before charging.I did not add more oil. Being that the drier is only...

New valve. Available from autozone. Comes with thread adapter that fit. Santech Part: MT1611https://www.autozone.com/air-tools-and-accessories/air-compressor-repair-parts/santech-high-pressure-relief-valve/965994_0_0?&searchText=MT1611

Twice. R134a conversion. Been good for ~ 7 years. Turned in on to find it discharged. Dye all over the relief valve on the compressor.New relief valve. New dryer. Evacuated and charged. High side never really went over 300 psi during charging but about half way through can #3 and before...

Awesome! Just awesome. I'm one of those old farts whose been attached to the car for going on 22 yrs now but I gave up on daily driving it some time ago. That said, properly setup, there's just something about them. I daily a 600hp CTS-V and God's honest truth - the galant is more "fun" to...

Not particularly hard to do. The service manual shows parts and order nicely. Biggest point is to watch what tools you use to pull and install seals. You don't want to scratch up the sliding bits. Don't go at it with a screwdriver. Have some seal pullers, plastic or round nose prys, good...

Sounds really familiar. If it hasn't ever been replaced, I'd change this guy. Pretty cheap part. 1/2 hours worth of work. Like I said earlier. Didn't feel bad but it was. I also forgot to mention that all 4 in the air - I couldn't detect the noise with a stethoscope. Only did it when...

I had similar. Thought it was a bad wheel bearing (which was getting a little bad). When that didn't fix it, the only other rotating part I've not reworked at some point was the driver side axle jackshaft bearing - the part bolted to the back of the block. Similar grinding noise. I'd pulled...

Cut it open. (messy!). Nothing. I don't see anything wrong unless the filter media is bad. Part stack up was correct. Relief seems to move as expected. Tension spring seems ok. Anti-drainback was facing the right way. ??

My original wheel needs to go. Seems like chunks of it come off in my hands each time I drive the car. Oh well. It had a good run.I'm looking at either a Momo Race or a Sparco L505 Lap - whichever I find cheapest I'll end up getting.Question for those with non-OEM steering wheels: What's...

Amazon refunded it without return so I'll open it up this weekend if I get a few minutes.

For the last 20 years of changing oil on it, I've switched back and forth between Purolator and Wix filters. Never had a problem with either. Changed the oil yesterday. New Wix filter from Amazon. Went for drive this morning and the oil pressure was going ape-$hit. Spiking my 0-150 gauge at...

Thanks for the heads up Iceman! I remembered a thread a couple years ago where they seemed to be all gone but sure enough Josh replied back they do have some. Problem solved.

My fuel fill hose is cracking. I know they're NLA so I'm planning to make on up from a few pieces of stainless and some fuel fill hose. Problem is I measure 42mm on the tank and fill neck. I can find 41 or 44mm hose. Anyone whose bought off the shelf hose for the purpose, can you tell me...

Up until this week the kids were banned from the car. Plus the V isn't too bad to drive around in either. I guess that sapped my motivation to drive it for a bit.

It's been a bad week for my vehicles. My CTS-V shattered an axle. My wife got rear ended in her cx-9. My Durango which I got out off the reserve list broke the last of 4 window regulators and dropped the window into the door. Then the freeze plug between the engine and transmission, which...

I have Weisco 9:1's as well. I was surprised at just how much timing I had to pull in low-mid throttle to avoid knock. This is with a an E3-16G so it's pretty spool happy. It seems like with a small turbo the expected grunt pickup from the compression bump is negated by the timing that has...

Hmm. Having one of each, makes me want to figure out how to race myself...In all honesty, the two cars each serve very different purposes for me and each does what it is intended for quite well.The V is great car to drive around day in and day out. Quiet, comfortable, car seats fit nicely...

Last trans rebuild I had an infant mortality of the input shaft bearing. Sounded similar. Only did it when the clutch was in. It then started leaking fluid out into the bell housing. That tipped me off that it was an internal problem.You might pull up your shift fork boot and look around...

Anytime I've battled part/mid throttle knock it has been a problem with the transition from closed to open loop. What I figured out after a lot of head scratching and reviewing logs is when I would get into the throttle 40-50% from anywhere between 3K-4K rpm, the entry point into the open loop...

I did very similar to the mototune link as well. That was 4500 miles ago and all is well with 9:1 wiseco on eagle rods.I was breaking in a centerforce clutch at the same time so cocked my wastgate open to keep from building boost during break in.

No first hand experience, but threads I read elsewhere indicate it looks similar to typical clear bra applications, work pretty well, last a while, but doesn't come off as easily as the adverts would have you believe - lots of picking, scraping, and paint correction required afterward.

FWIW, I used Pennzoil syncromesh from 113K miles to 191K miles in my tranny. At 113K I was having some shift problems. I adjusted cables and then switched fluids - the problem went away. The problem stayed gone and there was no excessive wear reported when I sent it to Jack's for an...

Yes. Inlet to the evaporator and exit from the evaporator at the firewall coupling block are roughly the same temp.That is why I'm confused. If there's a pressure drop - there should be a temperature change.

Warm to the touch when the cars warmed up. IR Thermo says 102 which is pretty close to the temperature measurements I took and posted last summer when it first went out. Since then, I replaced the expansion and condenser and drier

Quote: Swap out the air conditioning controller. ("Auto comp controller")If the compressor is turning on, can this still be the problem? Judging from the circuit diagram, the comp contoller simply monitors a few sensors and either enables the voltage feeding the compressor clutch relay...

Quote: Is any line in your AC setup getting cold? My only guess would be a restriction in the line somewhere before the expansion valve.Wouldn't that be evident in the gauge readings on the manifold? I would expect a very low low-side reading and possibly a high side reading that is...