That is 100% a MD145903 E2T34478 1990 Federal MT non-EPROM ECU. I have seen them built from both the JE331A942C PCB and the JE331A979A PCB. They are functionally the same but I've never sat down and documented the actual differences in the PCB to learn why they respun the newer PCB. And then the...

Besides the Brake line attachments on the later calipers there are other differences. The DSM and GVR4 dual piston calipers (M-R56W) has a slightly different piston size from the Diamante and 3000GT NA dual piston calipers. (M-R57W) 41.3mm vs 42.8mm. Hence the part# difference.I doubt you...

It doesn't for me. Maybe Chris fixed it. Are you still seeing the same problem?

Quoting prove_it: IIRC, it's a 7500 redline, 6k studderbox with 680cc injectors, 2G mas sensor tuned for 91 octane running 10.5:1 fuel ratio with the knock disabled at lower rpms.I don't think it has knock disabled at lower rpms but instead the boost gauge repurposed as a knock gauge. The...

He has to drive pretty much past me when he commutes but I don't fix ECUs anymore.

Flipping the pins takes all of 20 seconds now and I can almost do it in the dark.

Quoting cheekychimp:As far as I know, the ECU has only been flashed for 560cc injectors and that wouldn't necessitate a higher idle so I am assuming it was set for stock but I don't know and I'm not sure how I can verify this without a chip reader.Is the chip labeled in any way? Who made...

You make still have an ISC but it doesn't sound like it's working.What the idle speed in the ECU set to? If it's not 950-1k then you have to have driven the ISC out of range (all the way closed) before the idle rises. The ISC won't do squat until the RPMs drop below the programmed idle. Have...

Those are original caps and they have leaked. The front 47uf one leaked and shorted out. If you were having voltage problems from the alternator that might have been the final straw.Looks like the CPU chip might be blown too. The smudge mark on the top of it looks interesting.

Not if you retune (or at least change the injector global correctly) for the new fuel pressure. It shouldn't make any difference unless the injectors weren't working correctly at the lower base pressure. Then you might see better gas mileage at the higher base setting.

Between the GVR4 guys and DSM guys there are a bunch in the west/northwestern suburbs

Quoting H05TYL: What does the whoreshop manual say to use?It says light oil or petrol.

Quoting stealthtt24: Not my picture but the locking pin is the one on top.Actually the guide pin is the one on the top and the lock pin is the one on the bottom.

That's too bad. The 47uf cap shorted and burned up. Looks like an otherwise clean ECU but since the original caps weren't changed out it's now done.

Yes, you need a turbo ECU. You may need a California turbo ECU to pass smog.

The VFAQ site is the last place you want to go for correct information on setting the TPS. The FSM should be the first. You have it correct. The factory spec is 0.48v to 0.52v with the throttle closed and the throttle cable loose. I've yet to see DSMlink complain/malfunction about a TPS set...

That's pretty significant corrosion damage from the original capacitors leaking. The board needs to be stripped down, cleaned to bare copper everywhere it's corroded before replacing the damaged SMD parts and new capacitors for the power supply. That could easily take the good part of a day to...

As far as I know only the MAF is different from a sensor perspective but the wire routing could be very different. From an ECU perspective only 90 ECUs have different pinouts (two pins, 6 and 14 swapped) but the DSM and GVR4 ECUs differ in their software.

The factory exhaust studs are well known for breaking.

Quoting Yao: After looking at the Diagram, I just needed to cut all the wires at the resistor pack and connect them all together, correct?Sure, but I usually recommend getting a spare resistor pack, cutting off the resistors and soldering all the wires together so that the mod is reversible...

Something other than the correct one. I've seen people get in excess of 50 psi. There are people who claim they don't get overrun with theirs but half of them later prove that they don't know what overrun is and never measured, the other half may just be lucky or have a bad pump.

I usually use a pry bar and kick it.

Quoting deez: Is there another way to check this thing for the .48-.52V its supposed to be at?Depends on what you have, a datalogger will tell you the voltage, as will a SAFC using it's sensor check page. You can also probe the pins at the ECU side.Be careful with the TPS VFAQ, you can't...

Quoting Hertz: BTW, SAFC should be set to 2 cylinder for wasted spark system like ours.Only if you follow the incorrect wiring information found in Apexi's manuals. If you connect the green RPM wire correctly to Ignition Pulse Detect pin 109 or the CAS pin 21 you can set it to 4 cylinder.

Quoting cheekychimp: You will throw a CEL for the fuel pump but that is a known issue due to the wiring differences of the USDM and JDM cars. You can cancel that code in DSMLink V3 and then just forget about it.Or he can connect ECU pin 13 to the output of the MPI relay for the fuel pump.

Quoting belize1334: ^^ Not sure about that one. Seems to me that we have '91+ style ignition coils so we probably have the same era tachometer which is incompatible with the '90 ECU.Sorry you have it backward. The later cars don't have any major issues with a 90 ECU other than swapping the...

Assuming stock injectors and MAF the SAFC corrections are 0 across the board after you make sure the SAFC is set for a Karman airflow meter and a raising voltage TPS and 4 cylinder (or 2 if the RPM wire is connected to one of the power transistor outputs).

Quote: If you are not at 100% when the pedal is all the way in then your throttle cable needs adjustingThe ECU doesn't really care if the TPS doesn't read 100% at WOT, it cares about the changes in position and what it reads when the throttle is closed along with the IPS input.As...

clickIf I remember correctly there are different versions of the 808 ECU. Single board and dual board. The single board can be modified to be a US spec ECU. I think there are threads here discussing what's involved.Sorry, I fixed the link.

Thermo-valve for the EGR.

How often you you need to do that? Murphy's law states that no matter how well you protect it you'll manage to switch it off when that semi is headed right at you.If your thinking theft prevention there are many places you can insert a switch that will disable the car. Fuel pump, ignition to...

You'll notice that in all but one of those cases the throttle is closed so the engine has no load on it so the timing is high and I suspect the exception either was closed or was closing and the values for the TPS were exactly sinked with the timing.

Since the fuel pump side is unique with two inputs that can turn the pump on your better off getting a replacement.

I always read them the same way I used to read the ECU, with a 12v piezo buzzer or 12v LED. But connected to the other pin.

Are you sure it's the MPI relay that's bad? Try grounding pin 8 (black w/Blue stripe) send see if that causes the relay to activate. If it does the ECU is likely damaged.

You need to turn your BISS in some more and see if you can get the ISC steps around 12 or so at idle.

Have you pulled your ISC and make sure it moved like in the youtube video I keep linking on Tuners? After bootim the ECU homes the ISC by stepping it all the way out, then back to 0, before moving to the position for starting the car.Remember that idle surge is caused generally caused by too...

The CEL not turning on when you turn the ignition on was a big hint that the ECU had died. It likely that the electrolyte eat through the trace out to the MPI relay to turn the power on. There's usually other damage that was causing poor performance before but it's the ones that make the car...

What are you finding in them? How are they clogged?

Gas or e85?

We seem to be having continuing communications problems. Please reread what I posted.It's not like I didn't verify it before hand. A stock ECU will turn off the CEL after five seconds regardless of the engine running or not. I can't easily check what DSMLink V3 does but I'll go put my V2 ECU...

LOL, thanks for linking me back to one of my posts. I believe the factory service manual and VFAQ that copies the FSM information has you use 6v to be safe and avoid burning out any of the coils.

Quoting brisvr4: It should turn off about 5 seconds after you start the car.Quoting SouthCaliVR4: +1 engine has to be running for the light to go out.I haven't noticed any difference in the ECU code that would change the behavior from what I see regularly, which is the CEL will turn off...

Quoting moidsm1: Back to my original question, how many volts is the ECU supposed to be supplying to the ISC?Just looking that the MPI wiring diagram would make it clear that the two center pins receive power from the MPI relay. So they get whatever the car's system voltage is at the time.

Quoting speedyvr4: If you put high impedance injectors on a low impeadance ecu. It will fry your ecu.Nope. Keep in mind that the ECU injector drivers are pretty much the same between the turbo and non-turbo ECUs. (Some different part values in the snubber circuit but same driver transistors)...

Quoting ziggydb: The plastic/rubber piece on the clutch lever crumbled. If you buy a new switch does it come with that piece? Thank youAs far as I can tell you have to order it by itself, it not part of the switch part number.In typical Mitsubishi style there are two rubber stoppers on...

Usually you vacuum the system to find the leaks since it's much cheaper and you really need to get all the air and moisture out before charging it anyway.

Quoting brunoboy: I read on link forum that it means that the Ecu Pin 13 doesnt see 12v's going to the pump it will shut down. The ecu is good according to Bernard (ecu rebuilder) by looking at it, I will have to get a multimeter tomorrow. -ShaneI know I didn't say that and checking the...

I never had any good luck with the aftermarket thermostats. Only the OEM one ever seemed to work right.

The clutch is inside the pulley. The pulley is actually the rotor of the clutch. The test procedure is to feed the clutch connector 12v from the battery and if it clicks it's good.