Rear under guard

[JNR]

Have you thought about threaded inserts, or maybe even be able to fine thread the plate, as it looks pretty thick, to hide those screws? Looks like a nice piece, but sort of ruined by the way it was mounted IMO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif...

I know it's done and all, but if you do more, would it be possible to put the mounting bracket behind the plate (closest to tank), which would contain a threaded insert or similar, then use some flathead socket screws, black oxide (although SS wouldn't look too bad either)...There are many ways you could do this, but just thinking out loud.

EDIT - I realize the tank would be right behind the bracket, but they do make really short screws and judging by the pics, you probably have ~1/4" to work with in length; plenty and esp. using fine pitch.

Otherwise, looks like a decent add-on and would be nice to cover up an ugly tank I suppose.

As for the front, I would think you want some airflow in that area, so how about a perforated metal instead? It seems like it's a cosmetic thing/maybe *some* aerodynamic benefit, but neglible I'd imagine, more than protection if you're just using flat aluminum.

Anyway, it's fun to play with this stuff for sure and nice to see people experimenting and having fun...

 

[bobdole]

Thanks for your feed back JNR. I did try to mount the bracket in the back. There just isn't any room to work and trying to mount it. Good luck with that.

For the front. I guess you could use perforated metal instead. Haven't thought about that. I would have to check if that is available. Not sure how solid it would be either. I was thinking about adding some air flow vents.

 

[JNR]

Ah...that's too bad you can't mount the rear from the back, but bet you can't see it much from the rear. Doesn't look terrible, just a shame it stands out so bad from the nice PC black piece. They do make caps you could put on worst case.

Not sure how critical it would be to have airflow up front, but just in my thought, it would see you'd want some to be passing by for radiant cooling, so to speak, but perhaps it's not such an issue.

If you have the resources and are able to do so, I say keep it up with the new pieces as it sure cleans up the car...Just trying to think out loud about the stuff, but do have tendency to overthink things from time to time.

 

[bobdole]

You could get black nuts and bolts I guess. If you don't like the stainless hardware.

 

[GSX_TC]

I like it just the way it is and can't wait to see how it looks on my car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bobdole]

Got all the measurements done. Had it on the lift for 3 hours. Working on making the brackets.

 

[ApexHunter]

cont. from thread in FS section...

Quoting GSX_TC:
I say just a solid panel no holes, no vents. If they wanna acess stuff, they can take the thing off. Having holes in it and vents would affect it's drag coefficient. We want it to nice and smooth down there, (says in sexual undertone ver GalantVR4.org) luckily this piece would not only protect under car parts to an extent but also help in higher speeds with less wind resistance.



Quoting Spyder:
It's a galant. The drag coefficient is already messed up.



Either a fastening system that is fairly quick, simple and durable for lots of R&R, or access holes. Oil pan/filter are all that's needed. A lot of factory undertrays have a small hole for radiator drain also, but i don't think it's a necessity here.

Yes, holes would be marginally detrimental to its aerodynamics, but what Spyder said. We've got bigger problems. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif What is the drag coefficient of the 6th gen galant anyway?

I'm no expert on this stuff at all. But how many sports cars do you see with perforated undertrays/belly pans/diffusers? NONE. Bad idea. The smoother the better. If you wanna go nuts on your own later on, add some venturis to guide the air somewhere useful, such as the brakes. I believe this panel will help to smooth airflow and reduce turbulence and the subsequent drag and lift in the air going under the vehicle, as well as promote airflow through whatever heat exchangers are located in the nose of your car.

 

[presterone]

Add a few NACA ducts and call it good I'm so happy there are people like Bob dole willing to fab this stuff and produce it for others to buy. I wish I had the time I have some good ideas and a bunch of old belly pans from old Porsches VW's Mazda's and Audi's that were being thrown away.

 

[pot]

Bob I've included a link from the archives below that discusses the front skid plate in detail. This may be of use:

Anyone with a GVR Rally Car?

 

[bobdole]

Thanks for the link Pot.

 

[prove_it]

The front under piece can be resolved using a two piece, right and left plate. That way the downpipe will still be open to the ground. I would prefer that anyways as I wouldn't want the hot ass pipe radiating against the plate then reflecting heat back to the oil pan. Also then the left piece can be removed for oil changes. That was my initial design I came up with years ago. Biggest gain is a cover the runs from the front bumper bottom to just past the rear edge of the the front crossmember. That aids in forcing air across the intercooler and the radiator.

 

[prove_it]

Oh, and for quick release bolts, use ZUES clips you can find them on sport bikes. They work great.

 

[JNR]

dzus /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[prove_it]

Yea, that's what I said /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[JNR]

Spelling it correctly for those who don't know that brand name of 1/4 turn fasteners.

PEM nuts are a good option for this sort of stuff, if you have a way to press them.

 

[bobdole]

Thanks for the comments guys. Here is what I have done so far.

 

[GSX_TC]

Lookin good so far, what do you plan to change on it next?

 

[bobdole]

I have to drill the mounting holes in the front, make the brackets for the rear and make some vents for the heat. Then test fit everything. Then powder coat black.

 

[bobdole]

Almost finished.

 

[GSX_TC]

I wonder if that would fit my car too, with the Bulfab crossmember i have.