Oil pan replacement advice/top tips?

[blacksheep]

I seem to have a leak...just great. Its not the turbo return line, which I expected. It seems to be coming from the oil pan on the drivers side corner by the oil filter housing. It looks like my pan took a hit to the middle or had a jack used on it or something, dented.

Wondering if this is what caused it.

Anyways, assume all I need to do is:

1) drain oil
2) remove turbo return line
3) remove downpipe
4) remove pan
5) remove gasket nastiness
6) new gasket and pan - Anyone know torque specs off top of their head?

1) I am using a NAPA Spectra Pan (Same thing rock auto sells) and a felpro gasket. Should I RTV anything?
2) I doubt I can find the return line gasket at NAPA, maybe they have it. Do I need to replace it?
3) Anything else I need to ensure I don't f*** up?

Thanks much!

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Never used a gasket. Always used the gray rtv to seal it. Never had a problem.

 

[GSX_TC]

You dont need a gasket for the oil pan, your supposed to just use good RTV.

 

[blacksheep]

Interesting - gray RTV is all I need? I figured there would be a gasket and rockauto showed it for the turbo option.

 

[MellowVR4]

NEVER EVER use the gasket, you might have to take one of the north and south bars to get it out.

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting SleepinGVR4:
Never used a gasket. Always used the gray rtv to seal it. Never had a problem.

This. If you can't find the gray/high bond stuff at an auto parts store hit up a motorcycle shop. 2-stroke cases use it for airtight seal, they are under the name of ***Bond, with *** being the brand of motorcycle ( HondaBond, YamaBond, etc ).

Torque is 4-6 ft/lbs or 6-8 Nm.

 

[se7enine]

Toyota also makes a bond for gasket use

 

[galantrevolution]

Also do you know the you have to remove the transfer case to get the oil pan and the also remove the lower support on the left side to get the pan out

 

[iceman69510]

You will likely want a new return fitting gasket (and I double them up on the advice of a 25 year Mitsu tech).

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting galantrevolution:
Also do you know the you have to remove the transfer case to get the oil pan and the also remove the lower support on the left side to get the pan out



T-case? Please tell me this is not true! Damn it, thats more work than I want to take on! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Lower support brace? Does this require suspension removal?

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting iceman69510:
You will likely want a new return fitting gasket (and I double them up on the advice of a 25 year Mitsu tech).



I ordered 2 per your advice and 2 new bolts and the o-ring gaskets as well. Thanks, Icee!

 

[iceman69510]

Transfer case is not that hard.

No suspension removal for the cross brace.

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting ktmrider:
Quoting SleepinGVR4:
Never used a gasket. Always used the gray rtv to seal it. Never had a problem.

This. If you can't find the gray/high bond stuff at an auto parts store hit up a motorcycle shop. 2-stroke cases use it for airtight seal, they are under the name of ***Bond, with *** being the brand of motorcycle ( HondaBond, YamaBond, etc ).

Torque is 4-6 ft/lbs or 6-8 Nm.



yay, I have hondabond left over from my s2000 days. Thanks, boss!

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting iceman69510:
Transfer case is not that hard.

No suspension removal for the cross brace.



draining fluids and need new fluids? Take off driveshaft? Any additional gaskets needed? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[G]

Don't forget the two 6mm bolts and their correct location.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting blacksheep:


draining fluids and need new fluids? Take off driveshaft? Any additional gaskets needed? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif



Remove five bolts, slide it off of transmission output shaft, slide driveshaft out and let it hang. Keep rear of xfer case higher than front so that fluid doesn't leak out. Install is reverse of removal. Super easy.

You can also leave the driveshaft in and just let the whole thing lay on the ground if the car isn't too high on the jackstands.

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting G:
Don't forget the two 6mm bolts and their correct location.



where these bolts at g-dawg?

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting turbowop:
Quoting blacksheep:


draining fluids and need new fluids? Take off driveshaft? Any additional gaskets needed? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif



Remove five bolts, slide it off of transmission output shaft, slide driveshaft out and let it hang. Keep rear of xfer case higher than front so that fluid doesn't leak out. Install is reverse of removal. Super easy.

You can also leave the driveshaft in and just let the whole thing lay on the ground if the car isn't too high on the jackstands.



Thanks wop! I am getting old for stands, back hurts LOL. I am hoping my friend can help me in his shop with lift. Hoping he has tranny jacks or something to hold the tcase and shaft up. I will have to hang the downpipe/exhaust as its all one piece welded up all the way back with no cat!

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting blacksheep:
Quoting G:
Don't forget the two 6mm bolts and their correct location.



where these bolts at g-dawg?

The ( engine ) front pan bolts are shorter than the rest due to proximity to timing belt. Easy to spot them when standing upright together.

Otherwise you'll get some real purty grooves in the belt.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

And yes the TC remove/sag/replace like Whop mentioned works great, no lost fluid and easy to get at all the bolts.

 

[DynastyLCD]

Quoting se7enine:
Toyota also makes a bond for gasket use




^^^ THIS!!!

it will cure any and all oil leaks you may have.

also, if i remember right, you will need to loosen the bolts that hold the driver's side halfshaft to the block. i think you can get away with leaving that shaft in there somehow, but you will have to loosen it to gain the clearance needed to get at a couple oil pan bolts