My progress on 1309

[toybreaker]

Meanwhile, back on topic ...


Diego,

Priming the turbo on a dry motor (freshly assembled / never run) does require some thought.

I like to get the whole shitaree fully assembled, (engine turbo and all) and then just prior to hanging the t-belt, I'll spin up the oil pump with a cordless drill / socket combo. (I use a 14mm socket, but knowing you, it'll prolly be a 33/64'ths's nut off a Ford that ya got on there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/fawkd.gif )

Run the drill long enough to make sure everything "sees" oil, but don;t wash out all the engine assembly lube from the rods /mains uneccessarily



On an engine that has been running and has just had a turbo swap, you dont have to get too crazy.

Pull the spark plugs, unplug the cas, and spin it on the starter for ~30 seconds, pause and then repeat twice more.

With the plugs out, there won't be enough air moving past the turbine wheel to spin the turbo fast enough to hurt anything, and since the all the galleys are already full, the turbo will see oil almost immediately


You should be good to put the plugs back in and go at that point, but don't zing the motor, let it settle in at a fast idle for a few moments before tossing any revs at it.


Fix any (and all /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) oil leaks, and then you can get back to boostin.

 

[toybreaker]

... oh, and before you ask why it wont start, plug the cas back in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/fawkd.gif

 

[toybreaker]

p.s.



yer level is broke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Diego]

^ that picture was taken with jut the lip sitting on the IC.....

It's all straight now...


Thanks guys, Jon I will use all that info informatively.

Diego

 

[transparentdsm]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting GSTwithPSI:</font><hr />
With the spark plugs removed, I can easily turn a motor by hand plenty fast. I've used a 1/2" speed wrench on a few occasions that come to mind. Sorry you couldn't make that happen for yourself.

In regards to your comment on the O2, you seem to have missed my point completely. He wasn't talking about simulation or anything even related to that. Shane was making a direct reference to using either 1 or dual O2 sensors in conjunction with ECMlink, and you seemed to miss that entirely. For someone who "knows how to tune", that is pretty commonly known, and seems like a pretty basic thing to let pass you by. Nobody was "spreading misinformation", you just didn't understand what he was saying.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting biglady112:</font><hr />
You clearly are not familiar with how things work. I have made over 800 proven wheel horsepower numerous times as well as put a DSM to 218mph. I know what I am talking about.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
Super cool résumé. You mean, that's all I have to do in order to know what I'm talking about? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif" alt="" />

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Thank you.

 

[Diego]

Anyways.

This is how it sits today, everything bolted up, on all 4 tires and no longer JSB.

*Note my iphone lens is shitting out again so glare is in the picture*

 

[transparentdsm]

sorry for shitting up your thread, car looks great, glad to see things coming along well. how much more till your driving her?

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Looks good. You have JDM fogs for the bumper?

 

[Diego]

No I don't have the fogs. The core wouldn't allow me to run the fogs without some modifications that I dont care to do to the fog housing itself

 

[GSTwithPSI]

That sucks. I was in the exact same situation when I had 1813. The PO routed the intercooler piping right where the fog lights were placed in the bumper. That was a UDSM bumper though. The JDM bumper needs the fogs to really complete the look IMO.

Just talking out my ass, but maybe a set of pre-facelift fogs will fit? Can't really tell from a picture, but maybe they are a bit more shallow than the projectors.

Or maybe you could do this:
JDM Fog Light Delete

 

[Diego]

I was planning on doing the fog covers.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Looks good. You have JDM fogs for the bumper?



Not without fogs it doesn't. Some delete plates would fix that.

 

[Diego]

Have to pull the turbo back out to take the O2 housing off and weld a new O2 bung in for the MTX-L... She will be back on the road by next week if all goes as planned. Fingers crossed!

Side note; I hate not having enough light in the garage.

 

[EHmotorsports]

at my old place i got so fed up with the lighting that i spent 40 at Harbor freight for some overhead lights

 

[coyotes]

nothing like some major engine work with just a headlamp. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Diego]

I have a flat bar LED MAC light and a chicken coop light....

Why the hell the builders of this house made a 2stall attached garage and put a single bulb light in a garage.... Not even enough room to hang a shop light because of the clearance from the roof and garage door, then the garage ceiling is split by the HVAC.... Ghey. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Diego

 

[SteveDSM]

Diego, I am still ultra jealous of your RS bumper! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif I want to see this car running and driving when I get back!

 

[Diego]

Have taken the car for a few spins. She feels good.

Problem I am having is that I am stuck in open loop and cannot get into closed loop.

Quick rundown...
Innovate MTXL WB
RC550s
91oct
Aeromotive A1000 set @ 40psi fuel pressure ( also corrected in V3L )
FPGreen OG
Recirc'd PR O2 with a 38EWG
Stock ex mani
Wally 255 rewired
Mishimoto Half rad 3" 3 core
Slim pusher fan
Crushed BOV
Short route piping
Large FMIC

And a few other odds and ends.

I have replaced my knock sensor and I am still getting a 0031 knock sensor code, yes I have replaced the sensor with a OE Mitsu sensor, the old one just lost all the gummy filling but didn't goo out.

Any help on getting me into closed loop or why I wouldn't be able to gain closed loop?

Diego

 

[Diego]

 

[Diego]

Also washed 2 years of dust off this bitch today.

Diego