E38a RS build thread

[BENE38A]

so all back together now i started it but as i thought shifters are off i have 1st 3rd and 5th but it just grinds in 2nd 4th and reverse, can i adjust what i have, if its grinding it means it aint far from getting in gear right so are there small adjustments i used the bracket for the cables from my old gearbox so, and everything is basically the same except the box im a bit stumped here?

 

[EHmotorsports]

Yes there's adjustments at the shifter base. Should be 10mm and be for the side to side action. Try adjusting it longer first. If it feels worse then go the opposite way.

 

[BENE38A]

no luck just getting frustrated now

 

[BENE38A]

I can't believe I didn't notice it earlier, the rubber boot around the shift cable is torn through and when you shift to 2nd, 4th and reverse it bulges and bends out the side of the boot taking the path of least resistance rather than shift gear.
definiteley is the problem as it goes into 1st, 3rd and 5th.

 

[EHmotorsports]

have you tried moving the selector without the cable ends on the trans? will they go into all gears?

 

[BENE38A]

yea, it will go into gear when its off but it bends and bulges taking the path of least resistance rather than push the selector arm forward, must have been perished and let go when I pulled them off the gearbox.

 

[EHmotorsports]

that sounds more like adjustment issues then cable issues. have a pic of the cable? a torn boot shouldn't effect the operation of the cable. it will just let dirt and other things in to gum up the cable.

 

[BENE38A]

no pic as of yet but it does, the top boot where the cables clip to the bracket on the gearbox theres a boot, maybe my ones are different than the usdm ones??

 

[Street Surgeon]

Manual says this is the same procedure for an AWD.

 

[BENE38A]

going good, it goes in all gears i can drive it now took alot of adjusting up at the gearstick end, still needs more adjusting i will go for a small drive and feel it out, def working though appreciate it.

 

[BENE38A]

so i took the car for a good drive today upto a hardpark in tauranga, ive put close to 300km on the new clutch and its starting to scrub in still some chatter but it doesnt feel as bad as the first drive not as much shuddering and noise, have some rattles and some noise on deceleration so will go back under and look over it, the old gearbox code is W5M332NQBK its NOT an e38a rs box from what i can find its a normal 3.545 box and had been run with a 3.909 diff, make an educated guess here that it burnt out the centre diff, will check rear diff now but this swap has got rid of so much vibration its amazing, a whole new car, i know what to look for next time although there are wankers all over with cars doing half ass sh*t New Zealand has to be one of the worst places.

 

[strokin4dr]

That blows. Definitely check the rear diff. Should have been checked before swapping new parts in, but you live and learn. Good luck.

 

[BENE38A]

yea the diff is the correct ratio for my current setup but i wanna make sure it aint on its way out as a result of P.O failings, will empty the oil and check it today

 

[strokin4dr]

Gotcha. fingers crossed.

 

[BENE38A]

right so before i drop my diff oil to check for scum (fingers crossed) i want to get oil to replace the old stuff now i have read and read and read but this has to be one of the most contradicting things out whats good and whats bad, what is good for a plate lsd and whats bad example heavy shockproof or not?

 

[Street Surgeon]

I've always run redline heavyweight shockproof in the tcase and rear diff, no problem.

EDIT>> I just have the std viscuous lsd rear diff though.

 

[BENE38A]

Yea I emailed redline, again someone said it was developed for this purpose but will wait and see what the makers of the product say. I will put it in the transfer case though try and absorb a bit of shock from this aggressive clutch

 

[BENE38A]

so been a while, car is sitting waiting. starting to stockpile a few things for a build, the plan is to build a second engine.
im no where near any major work just jumping on parts when i see a good price, found a deal for a front case oil pump, it aint oem. heres a link.
click
should i just flag it and go oem or are you safe with an aftermarket front case. its new unused and much cheaper than the above, left over from some guys build

 

[BENE38A]

been a while havent been doing anything with cars lately, works been busy and focused on finishing my apprenticeship but going to get back into it this easter weekend so in preparation i bought my self



it will be good to get back into it.

 

[BENE38A]

So I got back into it this weekend, now that I have finished my apprenticeship i can put more time and now money (yeah!!!) into the build. This time around I am going to fix a series of leaks, clean up the engine, paint the block, clean up the engine bay (repaint and mild wire tuck), rebuild the front subframe and replace the worn out steering rack. Also by the looks of it one of them crappy ebay BSE kits was used, without the oil groove and that big puk you goop in the front case that leaks, so i ordered the oem parts for a BSE and maybe a new front case. I have seen the results of a stub shaft without the groove and it seized in there and wrecked an oil pump so i could still be up for worse yet. took me six hours (casual with beers in between) to pull the motor. First time without my good mate giving me a hand but it was sweet, labelled most things because I wasn't sure how long it would be out for. This engine hoist was a great purchase just need a bigger shed.