clutch

[Epifool]

Any recommendations on a clutch for a dd vr4 thats running a t3 turbo? I keep reading that a stock one wont handle the extra hp and torque well.

 

[EMX5636]

Approx HP/TQ numbers? T3 covers a very broad power spectrum. If it's a small build, a stage 1 or 2 from any name brand manufacturer should hold up. I used to recommend the ACT 2600, but many have been failing lately. Clutchmasters, South Bend, Exedy, ClutchNet, Competition, SPEC etc. If you are making pretty good power, I recommend go straight to a twin disc from any of the above companies.

 

[gvr4ever]

For DD, a Centerforce is very nice. Not the cheapest solution, but the pedal feel is very nice. I used to have a 2600 and it makes a horrible DD clutch. The centerforce is probably one of the lightest if not the lightest pedal feel upgrade clutches on the market. That isn't as important to everyone, but its a nice feature.

 

[cheekychimp]

^^^ I'd also vote for a CFDF clutch. I have one on the daily and pedal feel is as light as stock. However I am only running a 16G so I don't know what the limits of these are.

 

[gvr4ever]

Road Race Engineering rate the pressure plate at 2500lbs. The disk friction material seems to hold power. What it can't do is repeated launches, heavy slipping, or anything racing related. As long as you are driving normal or spirited, or maybe one semi hard launch once in awhile, they will hold up. I've had mine for around 40K miles and it still grabs like new. I don't think the catch location has changed much if any. Its still about a inch off the floor.

 

[rdomeck]

I went with an Action Clutch and the pedal feel is much lighter than the Centerforce that I took out. Took about 25 miles to fully break it in which I didn't like, but once it was bedded in it's been a great clutch.

 

[GSX_TC]

I say if your spending money, spend it wisely. I just recently purchased a southbend clutch, reccommended by Tim Zimmer himself, feels like a stock pedal feel and can handle upwards of 700whp.

 

[cheekychimp]

Mike which one is that? Is it the same combo Mark put in his car?

I've heard the southbend Kevlar disk with the centreforce pressure plate is a good pairing as well, but the cfdf clutches seem to last so long I don't know how long it will be before I get an opportunity to try out that combination myself.

 

[turbowop]

Stock pedal feel my ass. I have the TMZ clutch. It uses the Southbend heavy duty SS-X pressure plate. The disk is Kevlar on one side and ceramic on the other. It's a great clutch, but it's stiff. It gets pretty tiresome in stop/go traffic after awhile.

 

[gvr4ever]

Some of the confusion could be because a worn clutch can drag and be heavy on its own. I used to have a FWD turbo talon and it was a full blown DD. I put a Mitsu stock clutch (replacing the original factory clutch) in it and the pedal feel went from heavy to crazy light. I don't know what the cause of the difference was unless just the TOB was dragging or something, but the change was like night and day.

 

[GSX_TC]

No mine isn't the same as his mine is the SBC SS-X Pressure plate, and full ceramic disk (B-Series). K536SSXB trust me man that thing isn't hard, in fact when I get to the Shootout this year I'll let anyone feel the pedal for them selves. I daily this clutch too btw.

 

[turbowop]

My clutch only has probably 1500 miles on it, if that, so it's not worn. The SS-X pressure plate is similar in clamping force to an ACT 2600. It's just a heavy clutch. That's the price you pay to hold torque and power. Either that or you go to a chattery, grabby twin disk.

 

[gvr4ever]

Turbowop, my post wasn't directed to just you.

In general, if someone buys a used GVR4 with a sticky clutch, the ideal of how heavy or light a stock clutch is might not be a accurate view. How many have a factory clutch still in them anyway? In the terms of my old Talon, I could see a new perfectly working ACT 2100 feeling about the same or even lighter then the worn out factory clutch, as an example.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting GSX_TC:
No mine isn't the same as his mine is the SBC SS-X Pressure plate, and full ceramic disk (B-Series). K536SSXB trust me man that thing isn't hard, in fact when I get to the Shootout this year I'll let anyone feel the pedal for them selves. I daily this clutch too btw.



Mike, we have the exact same pressure plate. The disk doesn't change pedal feel or pressure. It's nowhere close to a stock feel.

I think you've forgotten what a stock clutch feels like. Especially if you daily drive a gvr4 that is open downpipe with no AC in Texas heat.

 

[GSX_TC]

Well i guess 10+ years of daily driving these things could have possibly made me "used to" the somewhat stiffer pedal, but honestly man it feels light as fawk to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

But yeah guys southbend's are said to be the best of the best (single disk wise)

 

[turbowop]

Yeah, I think you're just a bit out of touch with stock...

My Audi clutch is ridiculously soft in comparison the the gvr4. And the CFDF that was in 503 was in between the two.

 

[thecman02]

My old SBC was as light if not lighter then the twin disk I'm using now. I didn't have the SS-x pressure plate. It was the "HD" plate which was 22 or 2300.

 

[turbowop]

My twin disk was light like stock. But that's part of the reason that people like them. Less work for your leg and less possible thrust bearing wear. I just couldn't handle all the other downsides to the twin enough to warrant its use.

 

[Epifool]

Not necessarily a clutch question, but my car wont stay in first gear... theres no other problem i can find, just that. I do get a little bit of noise when im between gears, like the clutch plate is touching the pp or flywheel. Buti thats all. Very quiet... can anyone maybe shed a bit o light on this? I need to know if adjusting the clutch cables in or out will help- i have the cables that only adjust one way, the side to side one is non adjustable. Thanks for any help you guys provide.

 

[prove_it]

If you can put it into first and start moving and it pops out of gear, then it's the retaining rings on your 1st gear syncro. They are worn and will allow the selector ring to disengage the syncro. Time for a rebuild or new trans.

If you can't put it into gear and move then check the cables and cable routing/brackets.