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Choosing Cams --E3 16g setup--

cheekychimp

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Apr 19, 2004
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East Sussex, U.K.
Alan,

Aside from the turbo, what other mods do you have? Do you know what power your car is making compared to the one used in the AMS test? I don't think the actual figures are always that useful but in a test like this they do give an indication of the difference each type of cam makes because everything else remains as consistent as possible. I do remember however something being mentioned about new cams needing to be 'dialled in' and that if the car had been properly tuned after each set of cams was fitted, more conclusive results could have been made.

What that test suggests to me however (and anyone who has looked at that again, please correct me if I am wrong) is that on an essentially stock or lightly modified car the 264/264 and 264/272 combos seem to be the way to go. Almost 40ft/lbs of torque and an additional 25 horsepower is nothing to be sneezed at and nothing else really came close without significant off boost loss of torque.

There really isn't much to choose between the two and I would suggest which you chose out of those two would depend upon whether your car with stock cams was making around the same as the test vehicle or more at the same boost pressure. You also need to decide how far you want to go with a tune. I can understand you saying that you don't want to 'upgrade' but at the same time I think it would be silly not to liberate as much power out of your current setup as possible. If you look at 4thStroke's post above, discounting any differences created by different elevation/model of dyno etc you can see he made significantly more torque and power. Now that may well be the effect of a tuning the car properly with the 272s fitted but I would also hazard a guess that for whatever reason his car was making more power anyway and I think 264s might well have been a restriction in his car.

Bottom line here (and what I'm getting at) is that you need to have a fairly good idea of what boost pressure you want to run and what power you expect to make on the setup you intend using and decide if you need 272s or bigger to take advantage of the top end. You are going to have to try and work out what the likely offset in torque or spool is likely to be compared to what you are getting extra up top. Just using the HKS cams as an example, if I owned the car AMS did that test on I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt I'd go with the 264/264 combo. If however I had 4thStroke's car and was looking at the possibility of liberating a further 25 horsepower and nearly 20ft/lbs of torque from using the 272/272 setup, I'd go that route. AND if I discovered that spool up was slower or I was looking at less off boost power, I'd start looking at other mod's to bring spool time down like short route IC piping, better boost control, external wastegate or dual port actuator, cyclone manifold or one with longer runners and so on and so forth. Hell, if Auto-X is what is important to you, you might find changing the gearing on your car gets you where you want to be a hell of a lot easier!
 
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324vr4

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Apr 28, 2006
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1,240
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Bozeman, Montana
Alan...go with the 264/264....then if needed upgrade to the 264/272 combo...the cam that will allow you to feel the most difference RIGHT away would be the 264/264 combo...and shoot...if you don't like em, upgrade and sell your "old" setup to me...we're just down the road 100 miles or so... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif 264 FTW with the elevations we're living in...
 

toybreaker

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Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Some really good info/posts in this thread!

As Paul pointed out, cams are only a part of the whole picture.

Optimising your particular set-up is where it's at, and that's a herculean task, given the choices in displacement/compression ratio's/intake manifolds/throttle bodies etc...

Those wily engineers that designed the 4g63 did a pretty damn good job optimising the stock cam/14b package. All the parts work together well, and in order to improve on that, you must do the same! (It should also be said that some parts don't need much work, but some parts of the flow path will show their limitations just maxing out a 14b)

One thing to be thinking about when you're selecting your cams is that boost pressure is not really a good measure of what you need in the cam department. "Boost" is just air that didn't fit in the motor on this revolution, and a restrictive set-up (no head work, stock valves) will show (relatively) high "boost" at airflow levels that a prepared head/optimised flow path could swallow in one shot with no problem, (and less "boost" showing on the gauges.)

Cams should be selected on the basis of your particular mechanical combo, anticipated rpm range, airflow and esitimated h.p. goals, not the boost pressures anticipated.

Just dropping in bumpy cams won't give you all the benefits that their glossy literature promises. The whole package must be dialed in to achieve optimal results.

Chris, (BOOSTIN HARD) knows more about this subject than anyone I've ever talked to. For you guys playing at the deeper end of the pool, you really should contact him and have him optimise a head for your set-up. His work is second to none. You'll make more power with less heating of the intake charge because the flow path has been optimised, and that's just gravy all the way around. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It should be noted that many of the bumpier cam sets will require stiffer valve springs, and at that point, you're starting to move away from daily driver status. Stiffer springs will stress the ever lovin dog sh*t out of all the other valve train components, and the t-belt/drive system. That will significantly reduce their service life, and make for a whole sh*t ton more maintainance.

If that's your cup of tea, go for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

If you just want to drive your car, think long and hard before you order the goodies. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[In my humble and limited experience]
The 264/272 cam set is a proven combo that works very well for many different purposes. Bumpy enough to make decent top end, and yet mild enough that you can still pass emissions and daily drive your car.

I've got well over 150k miles on the hk$ 264/272 combo in my gsx with zero problems.

I'm always very cautious about telling other people how to build thiere equipment, so I'll just say my next build will also be a genuine evoIII 16g/HK$ 264/272 set up, (with a little more attention to the rest of the intake/exhaust paths.

I love the way that combo pulls up top... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 
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Ian M

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Jan 11, 2002
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2,348
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Martinsburg,WV
I went with the FP1 cams in my car a few years ago,I am running a old school tdo5 20g which is somewhat comparible to a EVOIII 16g.

I figured my heavy sled (3550 w/me in it) with a stock 7.8:1 compression motor would "feel" faster and be more fun on the street if I was able to retain most of the bottom end grunt and snappiness with milder camshafts. The FP1s looked like a better choice to match the combo I'm running. Someone on here had made 400+hp and run mid 11's in a GVR4 with a Evo III at the time,which made them more appealing. Since Robert Young (the owner of FP for the guys who don't know) was the person taking the order,I asked his opinion to see if his suggestion was in line with what I was thinking. He suggested the FP1s.
 
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cheekychimp

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Apr 19, 2004
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Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quote:



One thing to be thinking about when you're selecting your cams is that boost pressure is not really a good measure of what you need in the cam department. "Boost" is just air that didn't fit in the motor on this revolution, and a restrictive set-up (no head work, stock valves) will show (relatively) high "boost" at airflow levels that a prepared head/optimised flow path could swallow in one shot with no problem, (and less "boost" showing on the gauges.)

Cams should be selected on the basis of your particular mechanical combo, anticipated rpm range, airflow and esitimated h.p. goals, not the boost pressures anticipated.



That's a very valid point and I didn't mean to mislead anyone with what I said. It is just that it is quite difficult to make educated suggestions without knowing more about the current setup Al has. If for instance for any reason he is currently restricted to 15 or 17 psi (unlikely I know) it might be unrealistic to expect to make the same power on the same setup as a car running say 24 psi, and that might have affected his choice of combo. The whole thing starts to get out of kilter when you start looking at 'everything' that 'could' be done and the rapidly increasing cost involved. A lightened crank, aluminium rods, higher compression pistons could all help build a super fast revving engine but I think those fall squarely within the description of 'upgrades'.

Nevertheless going back to what I said before about doing other things to reduce spool up time, you have raised an excellent example here because a well designed head would very likely do just that, nevermind the added advantage of producing the same or more power at a lower boost level. The problem again is that good head work does not come cheap and again really does constitute an 'upgrade'. But a progressive upgrade path (if we can push him in that direction) would make obvious sense and this I concede would probably be a far better starting point than many of the things I suggested ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

The only thing I would add to this is that 'porting' aside from matching the ports usually involves making them bigger. Where torque and reducing spool up time come into question I believe velocity also plays a part and I think Chris himself actually suggested a 2G head with smaller ports for producing torque. Unfortunately my knowledge really runs dry at this point and I think we'd need to ask Chris where that 'sweet spot' is that reduces spool up whilst still giving enough flow up top to take advantage of that 272 top end you mentioned.

Out of interest what head were you using on your car, 1G or 2G?
 
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dmj

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Feb 2, 2008
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673
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orlando FL
IF you are into cheap cams you could check out DKS cams from FFWD connection.com They have copies of HKS cams for 297.00 a pair. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif On their site is says they are made by Crower cams and not Brian Crower.
 
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uncleben4rice

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Apr 17, 2007
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296
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antioch ca,
I had the 272/272 small 16g set up on my car and it ran well. Just my .02 cents. I could tell the difference right away. Car pulled very good on the freeway, not so good in the low rpm range, that's why I went to a bigger turbo.
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

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Jul 26, 2004
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Why are you guys knocking on the BC cams? I've had them and I was very pleased with them and I know few others that run them without any issues. Anything I missed out on? Thanks
 

Lonewolf64

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May 17, 2006
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Birmingham, Alabama
I think the AMS cam test says it all. For a 16g setup, HKS 264/264 cams are probably the best thing you can go with.
 

mean_green

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Nov 12, 2007
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313
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Park City, MT 59063
Awesome response guys, loving all the info and opinions even though some of its getting over my head, lol. But shared knowledge is priceless.

Getting back to what RAUCSH and Dialcaliper were saying on the FP1s having steeper ramp design and more duration with this lobe design, what I pretty much need is layman's terms on how their design is better or at least compares to HKS 264s. Those are the two sets of cams Im torn between Im starting to think.

Cheekychimp and Toybreaker (-whos helped me a ton in the past) I should maybe give you a mod list or plan at hand so you can better evaluate and help you help me in choice, lol.

Im trying to completely void what uncleben was talking about, I want to stay away from cams that only help topend power, again I plan to run this same setup for a long long time and dont want to be switching turbo setup or something else down the road to work together better. I dont want a top end cam or combo stealing power from my down low rpm power Id rather have for autox and street fun.

In truth Im pretty much copying Lonewolfs setup and wanting the same kind of numbers. click

Maybe even something closer to 350hp range if possible on a high mileage block and staying in knock range and daily dependablility.

The whole reason Im going after cams is Im doing a freshening up on the block, T belt and new rings, all new gaskets, a little tune up -new plugs and wires. And figured while Im in there I might as well throw some cams in on the deal since it'll be a long while before I dive back into this same block (knock on wood). My goal is to try and keep up with my brothers evo9 thats lightly modded and even more my bosses evo8 that I would love to put in its place. I dont want to be left in the dust and would love to be able to run with them in the very least w and older, more sleeper of a car. I realize beating them in a race will be very tough, but I would like it to be closer than they think it would be w both of them being in the 350hp range. Shock them a little bit ya know, plus neither of them can launch and I hope Keydiver's 2step will help me there, which gets me to a vague mod list.

Keep block pretty much stock w a nice refreshening as mentioned above.
E3 16g turbo, ex mani, and o2 housing. Also have a JMF o2 dump that Im going to try out
Lowershore MBC, Dejon Tool intake pipe w/ K&N filter, and going to silicone stock engine mounts
CMP 3in all the way back w cat-delete. -Emissions are not an issue, great thing about MT-
Going to piece together a logger setup soon as well
Spec clutch/flywheel combo on the way
All new drivetrain fluids
4bolt rear end
Few misc things Im forgetting Im sure

*FUTURE*
ETS FMIC setup
Keydiver chip
FIC 750s, Walbro, FIC fuel rail, In-line fuel filter and some decent FPR
Few things along the way, sure there stuff Im forgetting

Sorry about the lengthy post, hopefully it'll help you guys out w giving your best opinion and reasons why so I can decide.

Thanks,
-Alan
 

3rdstrikedsm

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Feb 17, 2008
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32159, FL
Quoting iLLeffeKt vr-4:
Why are you guys knocking on the BC cams? I've had them and I was very pleased with them and I know few others that run them without any issues. Anything I missed out on? Thanks



Their qc is not as good as HKS or Kelford which is why they must be degreed to get them to work properly also I have seen more than a few sets snap but you may be able to blame the person who installed the t-belt /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Hks 272's are a good safe bet and I have had them in a few 16g cars of mine and they work very well.
 
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mean_green

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Nov 12, 2007
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313
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Park City, MT 59063
I knew my long post would kill this thread /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Keep the info coming guys, need to make a decision sometime this week before this money falls out the whole its burning right now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hyperfire.gif
 

thecman02

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Nov 3, 2007
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917
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Kalamazoo,MI
Get the Kelford 264! I haven't seen to many people that have them, but your targeted hp is right where they are supposedly good. Kelford 272s have been good for people so I can't imagine the 264's being shitty. They are expensive though which probably ruins it for the OP buying them.

Kelford or FP is what I'm looking to put in my car next year.
 

4thStroke

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Oct 22, 2007
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Vancouver, WA
Does anyone know offhand the difference between the FP cams and the Comp Cams? Comp makes the FP cams, but Im not sure if FP has them built to their specs or if they rebagded Comps with a cooler name.
 

mean_green

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Nov 12, 2007
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Park City, MT 59063
Well I decided to pull the trigger on a pair of HKS 264s used from jb4 (Jamie). Unfortunately these are about the last parts the Galant is going to see until I give some much needed attention (i.e. money) to other side projects, so I wont see the full potential of the cams w a tune and fuel until early summer -if everything works out. Hopefully buying used cams doesnt come back to haunt me but I didnt have much other options and it was a deal I couldnt pass up, plus Jamie seems to be trustworthy.

Thanks everyone for the help, Id like to see this thread keep going to help people in the future and to see if we ever get past what seems to be people's experience and get down to the facts of what works best with a e3 16g setup and power in its optimal range.

-Alan
 

dsmer06

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Feb 27, 2008
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636
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Des Moines, IA
Quoting dmj:
IF you are into cheap cams you could check out DKS cams from FFWD connection.com They have copies of HKS cams for 297.00 a pair. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif On their site is says they are made by Crower cams and not Brian Crower.



The DKS cams that are $297 are regrinds, and are not made by Crower.
 

1990ggsxnj

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Nov 21, 2008
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525
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Blackwood, NJ
So what's so bad about regrinds anyways? I was looking at those cams as well and for the money, that's great if they last.
 
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