Quoting CutlassJim:
FIRST you would ZERO out your cams using a set of solid lifters, a piston stop, a degree wheel, a dial indicator and mount and the cam card to account for any variation in the distance from the crank centerline to the cams centerline (deck height, head thickness, headgasket used). This is NOT the same as setting the cam gears to zero. The zero for your enginemight be -2 ex +1 in.
THEN from there you can add or remove individual cam timing to play with the shape and location in the rev range of your powerband based on driving style and goals for the vehicle.
Now was that hard to do. That is all I was asking and wanting to know.
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
OP, for starters, what cams do you have? Some information about your car would be helpful.
Also, is the motor out of the car? If not, you'll be hard pressed to do this at all the correct way.
Yes the motor is out of the car. I have a set of GSC 280s, 1mm over valves(intake and exhaust), Dual Valve springs, Wiesco/Eagle combo, lightened crank, lightened flywheel, Sleeper 16g, Evo 7 front mount, Aluminum intake w/ 90mm TB, COP, DSM Link, 3inch turbo back.