turbowop
Well-known member
I know you said it's only temporary, but I would hit up the local hardware store and get a bag of black UV resistant outdoor style zip-ties. They hold up much better than the white/clear ones.
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build #62 - UPDATE 9/10/13 w/ great news
- Thread starterWhoodoo
- Start date
Whoodoo
Well-known member
I wanted to stay away from helicoils because they have always been a pain in my ass. There is another threaded sleeve type product sold by Fastenal called ez-lock. These are cheaper than time-serts because they are installed with a flathead screwdriver. However, they don't lock in like a time-sert and thus, aren't as good. I was under the impression that these ez-locks would be much cheaper and available from the local store, but turns out they aren't really that cheap and weren't in stock. So I had a choice: $35 for ez-locks that would get here in a couple days, or $75 for time-serts which would get here in a couple days.
So, me and my 'go big or go home' attitude got the time-serts.
When they get here I'll get the mani and turbo back on and *hopefully* she'll start right up without a fuss. In the mean time I still have to prime the oiling system, double check that everything is torqued down, get the timing belt on (which won't be hard now that I have the jay racing tools), make sure I plugged everything in right, and generally worry if I've done everything right so far.
It always seems like I'm waiting on something /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
So, me and my 'go big or go home' attitude got the time-serts.
When they get here I'll get the mani and turbo back on and *hopefully* she'll start right up without a fuss. In the mean time I still have to prime the oiling system, double check that everything is torqued down, get the timing belt on (which won't be hard now that I have the jay racing tools), make sure I plugged everything in right, and generally worry if I've done everything right so far.
It always seems like I'm waiting on something /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Whoodoo
Well-known member
My Time-serts came today yay!
I got a lot of work done, even though it took forever and the sun was quite hot on my back.
Hooray for thread repair!
Putting the studs back in, I found all my old threads still hanging onto one of them.
I've got a few theories as to why they stripped, and one of them has to do with whether or not the flange of the 2g manifold is thinner than the 1g. Is it? If so, perhaps the nut went all the way down the stud and hit the end of the threads. If that happens and you keep turning... no more threads. Well, no matter how they stripped, they are fixed and the mani is torqued down.
Anyways, here's where I stopped. Turbo and lines are all hooked up and the engine is sealed and ready for oil.
Tomorrow I'll be priming the oiling system, putting the intake on, putting on the main timing belt and seeing if she'll fire up and not leak anything.
I have a few questions. I was plugging the alternator back in and found a wire that goes to nothing. It looks like it had a connector in it long ago, but I cant figure out what it went to.
Also, the half moon seal on this head looks like it was squished down and the top of it doesn't sit flush with the rest of the valve cover gasket surface.
I'm experimenting with materials that rtv won't stick to in the hopes that I can build it up to the level of the rest of the valve cover gasket surface. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Last question... When I was drilling and tapping the middle bottom manifold hole, I didn't realize that it actually goes through to one of the oil drain holes in the head. As a result, some of the chips fell into it. I sucked out all the chips I could see and then shoved the hose down as far as it would go to suck out as many chips as possible. I also poured a bunch of oil down that drain hole and let it drain out the oil pan, but no chips came out. Does that hole go straight down to the pan? What other actions should I take to make sure I don't get any aluminum in the rotating assembly?
I got a lot of work done, even though it took forever and the sun was quite hot on my back.
Hooray for thread repair!
Putting the studs back in, I found all my old threads still hanging onto one of them.
I've got a few theories as to why they stripped, and one of them has to do with whether or not the flange of the 2g manifold is thinner than the 1g. Is it? If so, perhaps the nut went all the way down the stud and hit the end of the threads. If that happens and you keep turning... no more threads. Well, no matter how they stripped, they are fixed and the mani is torqued down.
Anyways, here's where I stopped. Turbo and lines are all hooked up and the engine is sealed and ready for oil.
Tomorrow I'll be priming the oiling system, putting the intake on, putting on the main timing belt and seeing if she'll fire up and not leak anything.
I have a few questions. I was plugging the alternator back in and found a wire that goes to nothing. It looks like it had a connector in it long ago, but I cant figure out what it went to.
Also, the half moon seal on this head looks like it was squished down and the top of it doesn't sit flush with the rest of the valve cover gasket surface.
I'm experimenting with materials that rtv won't stick to in the hopes that I can build it up to the level of the rest of the valve cover gasket surface. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Last question... When I was drilling and tapping the middle bottom manifold hole, I didn't realize that it actually goes through to one of the oil drain holes in the head. As a result, some of the chips fell into it. I sucked out all the chips I could see and then shoved the hose down as far as it would go to suck out as many chips as possible. I also poured a bunch of oil down that drain hole and let it drain out the oil pan, but no chips came out. Does that hole go straight down to the pan? What other actions should I take to make sure I don't get any aluminum in the rotating assembly?
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
RTV should cure to that half moon gasket unless it is completely dried out and hardened, in fact the fsm calls for it in that location. Also, that hose goes on a little nipple that I BELIEVE is on the power steering pump. If I was in front of an engine I could tell you, but just look for a really small nipple near that location.
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
Also, you may want to get a magnetic drain plug to be safe with that metal. But are you sure it's supposed to go all the way through? Iirc none of them are supposed to, but what do I know? My brother accidentally punctured a stud hole on his ca18dt head and he was actually able to jb weld it enough. Not a preferred permanent fix but it works.
SouthCaliVR4
Well-known member
The little wire connects to the power steering pump & lets the ecu see pressure when you turn the wheel. If you still have an IAC it will bump the idle speed to comp for the load of the pump @ parking lot speeds.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Looking in the FSM I see it calls for RTV on the semi circular seal in a big old picture right there. I guess I should have looked there first.
As for that wire, its getting dark and I couldn't really see if the connector had ripped out or if I wasn't getting it on there right... Nonetheless, I think I'll have some wire repair to do.
As for that wire, its getting dark and I couldn't really see if the connector had ripped out or if I wasn't getting it on there right... Nonetheless, I think I'll have some wire repair to do.
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
Lol come on mang, did you read our posts at all? No connector ever was there it's actually just a hose. There's a nipple on the p/s pump for it.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Oh man, I'm tired! I really want to get her driving in time to get a submission for the calender, so I'm going balls to the wall.
Barnes
Well-known member
I'm like 99% sure that nipple on the power steering pump is for a wire connector. The female side is a bullet connector. Where did you get the idea it's for hose?
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
Huh? I don't see how a nipple could ever be for a wire connector. Besides, I know it's for a hose because I had the hose hooked up there when I had a gvr4 with a motor in it, and if you go to Rockauto>steering>power steering pressure hose. Hence the hose. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Barnes
Well-known member
So where the hell does the hose go, and why is it every GVR-4 ever had has a wire connected to it that goes back into the wiring harness??
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
The hose is just part of the wiring harness and (as southcali said) it goes to the ecu so it sees pressure. I'm not totally sure how these work, there very well may be wire insulated by a rubber hose, but I know there is no connector on the p/s pump side. Never has been never will be.
Last edited:
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
On further inspection of rockauto pictars, it appears that it is in fact just a hose. It's a relatively short hose and I would guess the other end would mate up to a pressure sensor on the wiring harness.
SouthCaliVR4
Well-known member
It is not a hose!! it's a wire, it connects to a pressure switch on the p/s pump, it grounds that wire to signal the ecu to bump idle speed. Yes it has a huge sleeve & a very weird connector but it is a wire. I just fixed mine when I was repairing a broken wire @ my oil pressure sending unit. If you have no switch then there is some kind of block off or that could be the difference between a tel & Gvr4 pump. Though I am somewhat sure I have seen them on tel's as well.
If my camera hadn't gone swimming I'd go take a pic of it & the sensor but I was just working on it two weeks ago.
If my camera hadn't gone swimming I'd go take a pic of it & the sensor but I was just working on it two weeks ago.
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
I still need to see pics.
It's not a hose, it is a wire with a female bullet terminal.
It connects to a pressure activated switch on top of the p/s pump.
It connects to a pressure activated switch on top of the p/s pump.
SouthCaliVR4
Well-known member
All righty I'll grab my sisters camera & see if I can figgure the bugger out to post a pic for you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
SouthCaliVR4
Well-known member
That is the wire, I'd have to pull some stuff apart to get a shot of the sensor in question & honestly don't feel like doing that at this hour.
And yes I need a new upper heat shield /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif it's on the list /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Zomg its a connecter or a hose or a wire or a sensor or whatever. It doesn't really matter that much.
What's more important is the aluminum bits that may have gotten into the oil passageways.
I looked at my old stock head and it does go through to the passageway, so I know I didn't punch through when I shouldn't have. I would get a magnetic plug, but its aluminum, so its non-ferrous. I guess my big concern is if this is going to go somewhere other than the pan. If it does just go to the pan, then I'll dump all the new oil down there to get any bits down there. I don't think they are small enough to get through the screen on the oil pickup. I really don't want them to get into the crankshaft bearings. I just did the top end and I really don't want to do the bottom end so soon.
What's more important is the aluminum bits that may have gotten into the oil passageways.
I looked at my old stock head and it does go through to the passageway, so I know I didn't punch through when I shouldn't have. I would get a magnetic plug, but its aluminum, so its non-ferrous. I guess my big concern is if this is going to go somewhere other than the pan. If it does just go to the pan, then I'll dump all the new oil down there to get any bits down there. I don't think they are small enough to get through the screen on the oil pickup. I really don't want them to get into the crankshaft bearings. I just did the top end and I really don't want to do the bottom end so soon.
