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4 bolt rear end and 4ws elimination rite up

Tre3zy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
602
Location
South San Francisco, CA
hey guys just wondering if theres any write up to how to eliminate the 4ws in our cars.... i search the how to section and might have missed it.... i will also be doing a 5 lug swap and eliminate the ABS.... thnx

-Triz
 

OMFGeofffff

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Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
It's in there somewhere. I'll post back where I'm in between matches in MW2 haha.
 

Theres a write up just search "4ws" and itll come up plus i suggest you get the earls fittings before you begin the drain bolt worked for some people but it didnt work for me avoid the drama trust me
 

Tre3zy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
602
Location
South San Francisco, CA
cool thnx....
 

Tre3zy,

I am currently doing this delete. ill try to upload some pictures and reference my sources tomorrow. but when you see how i did it, keep in mind im not doing the "best job". some hoses are being plugged with bolts and hose clamps (low pressure lines with flywheel bolts stuffed in them and a small hose clamp). the best way is to just remove all the lines and plug your 4ws high pressure lines at your front rack (the ones going to the back, off your front rack). i am also using the -6 caps to plug my rear rack. i will retain the rear rack. also plug or change your PS reservoir, a 1G DSM works fine.

the fittings he's talking about above are:

"EARL'S Performance plumbing" "caps-6" part number: 592906ERL - http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/592906/10002/-1
"EARL'S Performance plumbing" "-6 to 14mm-1.6 Power Steering" part number: 991954ERL - http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/991954/10002/-1

picked mine up from jegs.com

till tomorrow sir,

Chad



edit, sorry missed the 4bolt question also. here is something that can help you from vfaq.com for the 4bolt stuff. http://vfaq.com/mods/4bolt.html im not doing a 4bolt diff so i can only help you so far.

when you take your 4ws pumpkin down. you will need to take out 7 bolts total. the 6 diff bolt + the 4ws pump bolt. its located on the driver side right next to the pump(14mm i believe maybe 12mm, will confirm tomorrow).

if you drop your mustache bolts first and let your diff hang (while the other 2-4 bolts hold the diff up), you can almost get your head up there to see it. with the mustache bracket removed and the bolts holding the diff up, youll have plenty of room to work in.

careful, i about pissed myself when the diff plunked down 3 inches, thought it was gunna smash me. i then used a screwdriver to wedge the pump loose. i found removing the diff first then work on the lines and pump.

hope this helps
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Tre3zy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
602
Location
South San Francisco, CA
oh you know wat guys i forgot to tell you guys that i will be using the whole rearend out of the 1g....
 

even better /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ill get you some front end pics then. never dropped the sub-frame though, let me know how that goes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

edit: you will still need the EARL plugs/adapters or a 1g rack or a welder~

read somewhere the oil pan bolts can plug your rack, havent confirmed that.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Tre3zy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
602
Location
South San Francisco, CA
yea ill let you know.... just trying to get some info for now to how to do it so i save a bit of time when i do it.... and yea i think some guy used a oil pan bolts to block it
 
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