WOW - 4G64 cyro/MicroBlue polished crank
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Terry Posten Old Balls 425/1000
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posted 03/30/07 07:08 PM
1992 Galant VR4 click 2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily
Posts: 9009 | From: Davenport, Iowa USA | Member Since: 12/16/03 | IP: (12.217.126.237) |
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Terry Posten Old Balls 425/1000
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posted 03/31/07 04:45 PM
I will not be racing this motor for at least 1000 miles of break-in. Both for the tranny and the crank. I will be replacing the oil after that period. I plan on using the EIII turbo for at least this year. I really don't want a thick oil to break in new bearings. On a side note - The crank is in and all the caps are just finger tight right now. I am waiting on a set of 12point sockets (I only have 6 point in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive  ) I should have everything torqued down in a few hours. I did buy the ARP lube and have used it and since this hardware is used already once, I wont need to tighten/release/tighten/release 4 times like the "new" instructions say. I hope to have the motor completely re-assembled and the tranny ready to be bolted back up by Monday. Then call a very large freind to help press it up onto the block pins. She may be running in a few short days.
Posts: 9009 | From: Davenport, Iowa USA | Member Since: 12/16/03 | IP: (12.217.126.237) |
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toybreaker  it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus 1990/2000
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posted 04/02/07 10:00 AM
Terry, before you put the t-belt on, prelube your motor with the oil pump. Just take a 14mm socket on a cordless screwdriver/drill and turn up the oil pump (clockwise) for a minute or two. That will push oil thru the whole system, filling the filter, all the passages, and the lifters. You can tell it's working when the drill bogs down a little. Then just keep going untill you don't hear any squishy noises. (That's air being bled out in various places from the bearings, lifters, etc) Please, do NOT use an impact, or even an air ratchet, because you can over tighten the oil pump sprocket nut, stripping or breaking it in the process. The oil will resist, and higher power tools=trouble. If you do this with the valve cover off, be sure to cover the two lifter passage bleed holes at the cam gear end of the passages. If you don't you're going to spray the bottom of the hood, (not that I would know or anything  ) I prelube all the motors I build this way, and it works sweet!!!
Posts: 3541 | From: Never Summer Ranch, Colorado | Member Since: 04/30/06 | IP: (208.54.14.47) |
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