Three words......

Sexy......Time......Explosion

No, I am using ARP assemby lube and Mobile 1 10-30.

I was told that normal "good quality" oil is just fine.

One of the biggest things that made me really want this done was that several dragsters have lost all oil pressure on the track and when the motor was tore down, the bearings/journals still looked new and did not need any work.

If that is the case, it may help our oil filter issues.

wow looks great!!!!
like it has a nice coat of clear on it...

calico bearings have the same kind of coating.

All good and all, but 10w30 is too thin for a race motor.

Andre

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No, I am using ARP assemby lube and Mobile 1 10-30.

I was told that normal "good quality" oil is just fine.

One of the biggest things that made me really want this done was that several dragsters have lost all oil pressure on the track and when the motor was tore down, the bearings/journals still looked new and did not need any work.

If that is the case, it may help our oil filter issues.

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TErry that thing looks like shit I know your not happy with it so just send it down here I will even pay for shipping!

This is what I was going to do:

When the thrust bearing is installed, AERA recommends a several step process to assure proper alignment.

Tighten main cap bolts to approximately 10 to 15 ft.lbs. to seat the bearings, then loosen.

Tap main cap toward rear of engine with a soft faced hammer. Then retighten main cap bolts finger tight.

Using a bar, force the crankshaft as far forward in the block as possible to align the bearing rear thrust faces.

While holding the crankshaft forward, tighten main cap bolts to 10 to 15 ft.lbs.

Finish tightening the main cap bolts to specifications in two or three equal steps. This should align the bearing thrust faces with the crankshaft to maximize the amount of load bearing area in contact with the crank.


Is that what you are talking about?

Terry, you are not implying that you are planning to break in the motor with Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 in it are you?

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I will not be racing this motor for at least 1000 miles of break-in. Both for the tranny and the crank. I will be replacing the oil after that period. I plan on using the EIII turbo for at least this year.

I really don't want a thick oil to break in new bearings.

On a side note - The crank is in and all the caps are just finger tight right now. I am waiting on a set of 12point sockets (I only have 6 point in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive )

I should have everything torqued down in a few hours. I did buy the ARP lube and have used it and since this hardware is used already once, I wont need to tighten/release/tighten/release 4 times like the "new" instructions say.

I hope to have the motor completely re-assembled and the tranny ready to be bolted back up by Monday. Then call a very large freind to help press it up onto the block pins.

She may be running in a few short days.

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Why not?

Why would you use a thick oil. Thick oil takes alot longer to get pumped into all the small spaces. I want oil pressure ASAP. I am not going to push this motor at all for quite some time.

I have always used 10-30 in my 4G63, vette, trans ams, etc.

Explain to me why you use heavy oil for DD?

The pistons have been in the motor for 1 year. They have 8000 miles on them already.

Terry,

What this has got to do with old pistons? You are not breaking in the pistons.

My concerns are with the rings and bore finish.

Are you going to reuse the old rings with the old pistons? Did you get the bore re-hone?

A non detergent 30W is what we used to break in rings for one heat cycle in brand new motor. It is a very thin oil that is used to flush the bearings and all the journals. After one heat cycle we will replace the filter and oil and put in new filter with detergent 30w. That first heat cycle is also a good time to be looking for leaks and burp the cooling system properly while waiting for the engine to come up to temperature. Afterwards its good to pull that valve cover and retorque your head fasteners.

Detergent 30w will be used for breaking in the new rings properly. I don't let my customer put in synthetic in their motor till at least 1000 miles, and even then its 15w40 synthetic or 20w50 synthetic.

The 10w30 synthetic is too thin, leave that for the Camrys and other low powered 4 banger.

Notice I never mention breaking in the bearings or breaking in the cams (I don't know why people still insist that they need to be breaking in the cams even with our roller rockers) When breaking in these motors, your only concerns should just be seating the rings to wall properly. You'll never get the rings to seat right with synthetic.

Andre

Got it Chief!

Andre