WOW - 4G64 cyro/MicroBlue polished crank

Terry Posten · Mar 30, 2007

Just got my 4G64 crank back from MicroBlueRacing.com in Rockford, IL.

Most of you know the whole story behind why I had to do this so I wont go into that.

I had a local shop tank and magnaflux it to make sure all was good. Then I dropped it off at Material Technologies (a.k.a. - Micro Blue Racing) to be cyroed and coated with there patented "blue" process. Total cost of this work was $175. ($125 was for the cryo work)

This coating so some kind of process that is really slippery. It is really hard to hold on to. The coating is somehow bonded to the metal and is not effected by any chemical. It can only be removed with abrasives.

Here are some pics of the bearings and crank, all ready to drop in. Some pics are without flash and some are with flash. The camera is only 4mp and does not really do the crank and bearing justice. I just don't have good lighting and enough mp.

Mar 30, 2007

Three words......

Sexy......Time......Explosion

Mar 30, 2007

I just killed a bunch of time on the microblue site. It looks very cool. I look forward to seeing how this works out for you.

Are you planning on running any form of their lubricants?

Terry Posten · Mar 30, 2007

No, I am using ARP assemby lube and Mobile 1 10-30.

I was told that normal "good quality" oil is just fine.

One of the biggest things that made me really want this done was that several dragsters have lost all oil pressure on the track and when the motor was tore down, the bearings/journals still looked new and did not need any work.

If that is the case, it may help our oil filter issues.

JNR · Mar 30, 2007

Interesting...I'll have to read into it some more, but to gain less friction without having to compensate for the coating, is pretty cool..nice how they can impregenate things nowadays!

It's those 'little details' that will not only make the engine more efficient (power), but last longer and give you some more insurance... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

bazeng · Mar 31, 2007

wow looks great!!!!
like it has a nice coat of clear on it...

curtis · Mar 31, 2007

Terry why you got to show me this now I want to spend another pocket full of money.

Hksvr4 · Mar 31, 2007

calico bearings have the same kind of coating.

johnnyRacer · Mar 31, 2007

WOW, it looks very good Terry. I feel like a proud poppa whose son is going to play his first game. I may have to use this treatment on my 2.4 build up.

grocery_getter · Mar 31, 2007

All good and all, but 10w30 is too thin for a race motor.

Andre

Quote:
No, I am using ARP assemby lube and Mobile 1 10-30.

I was told that normal "good quality" oil is just fine.

One of the biggest things that made me really want this done was that several dragsters have lost all oil pressure on the track and when the motor was tore down, the bearings/journals still looked new and did not need any work.

If that is the case, it may help our oil filter issues.

Terry Posten · Mar 31, 2007

I will not be racing this motor for at least 1000 miles of break-in. Both for the tranny and the crank. I will be replacing the oil after that period. I plan on using the EIII turbo for at least this year.

I really don't want a thick oil to break in new bearings.

On a side note - The crank is in and all the caps are just finger tight right now. I am waiting on a set of 12point sockets (I only have 6 point in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)

I should have everything torqued down in a few hours. I did buy the ARP lube and have used it and since this hardware is used already once, I wont need to tighten/release/tighten/release 4 times like the "new" instructions say.

I hope to have the motor completely re-assembled and the tranny ready to be bolted back up by Monday. Then call a very large freind to help press it up onto the block pins.

She may be running in a few short days.

jcgalntvr4-244 · Mar 31, 2007

TErry that thing looks like sh*t I know your not happy with it so just send it down here I will even pay for shipping!

Mar 31, 2007

I don't want to insult your intelligence, but PLEASE make sure that you set your thrust bearing correctly with that sexy crank!

~Mark

Terry Posten · Mar 31, 2007

This is what I was going to do:

When the thrust bearing is installed, AERA recommends a several step process to assure proper alignment.

Tighten main cap bolts to approximately 10 to 15 ft.lbs. to seat the bearings, then loosen.

Tap main cap toward rear of engine with a soft faced hammer. Then retighten main cap bolts finger tight.

Using a bar, force the crankshaft as far forward in the block as possible to align the bearing rear thrust faces.

While holding the crankshaft forward, tighten main cap bolts to 10 to 15 ft.lbs.

Finish tightening the main cap bolts to specifications in two or three equal steps. This should align the bearing thrust faces with the crankshaft to maximize the amount of load bearing area in contact with the crank.

Is that what you are talking about?

Mar 31, 2007

I do it a bit differently..

1. Lightly seat (10-20 ft/lbs) all of the caps.
2. Back off finger tight.
3. Wiggle crank around to get the end most caps aligned
4. Torque down each tied (1-2, 4-5) cap set to specification
5. Very lightly seat the #3 cap
6. Pry/tap it to the rear
7. Tap crank back towards front to align rear thrust surface
8. Torque #3 cap
9. Check to make sure thrust is not on low side of spec (indicates misaligned cap)
10. Check crank rotation after every final torque.

Grocmax method.

~Mark

grocery_getter · Apr 1, 2007

Terry, you are not implying that you are planning to break in the motor with Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 in it are you?

Quote:
I will not be racing this motor for at least 1000 miles of break-in. Both for the tranny and the crank. I will be replacing the oil after that period. I plan on using the EIII turbo for at least this year.

I really don't want a thick oil to break in new bearings.

On a side note - The crank is in and all the caps are just finger tight right now. I am waiting on a set of 12point sockets (I only have 6 point in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)

I should have everything torqued down in a few hours. I did buy the ARP lube and have used it and since this hardware is used already once, I wont need to tighten/release/tighten/release 4 times like the "new" instructions say.

I hope to have the motor completely re-assembled and the tranny ready to be bolted back up by Monday. Then call a very large freind to help press it up onto the block pins.

She may be running in a few short days.

rheckert · Apr 1, 2007

^That is the impresion I get as well.

Terry Posten · Apr 1, 2007

Why not?

Why would you use a thick oil. Thick oil takes alot longer to get pumped into all the small spaces. I want oil pressure ASAP. I am not going to push this motor at all for quite some time.

I have always used 10-30 in my 4G63, vette, trans ams, etc.

Explain to me why you use heavy oil for DD?

spooling92vr4 · Apr 1, 2007

because your rings need to seat and synthetic oil will not allow them to seat properly.

Terry Posten · Apr 1, 2007

The pistons have been in the motor for 1 year. They have 8000 miles on them already.

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WOW - 4G64 cyro/MicroBlue polished crank

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