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WOW - 4G64 cyro/MicroBlue polished crank


Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458241 posted 03/30/07 07:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just got my 4G64 crank back from MicroBlueRacing.com in Rockford, IL.

Most of you know the whole story behind why I had to do this so I wont go into that.

I had a local shop tank and magnaflux it to make sure all was good. Then I dropped it off at Material Technologies (a.k.a. - Micro Blue Racing) to be cyroed and coated with there patented "blue" process. Total cost of this work was $175. ($125 was for the cryo work)

This coating so some kind of process that is really slippery. It is really hard to hold on to. The coating is somehow bonded to the metal and is not effected by any chemical. It can only be removed with abrasives.

Here are some pics of the bearings and crank, all ready to drop in. Some pics are without flash and some are with flash. The camera is only 4mp and does not really do the crank and bearing justice. I just don't have good lighting and enough mp.




















1992 Galant VR4 click
2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily

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PastaRocket
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458245 posted 03/30/07 07:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Three words......

Sexy......Time......Explosion

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josh long
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458271 posted 03/30/07 09:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just killed a bunch of time on the microblue site. It looks very cool. I look forward to seeing how this works out for you.

Are you planning on running any form of their lubricants?

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Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458273 posted 03/30/07 09:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No, I am using ARP assemby lube and Mobile 1 10-30.

I was told that normal "good quality" oil is just fine.

One of the biggest things that made me really want this done was that several dragsters have lost all oil pressure on the track and when the motor was tore down, the bearings/journals still looked new and did not need any work.

If that is the case, it may help our oil filter issues.



1992 Galant VR4 click
2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily

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JNR
5 star (English Professor) member Has extensive pop up picture book collection
20/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458281 posted 03/30/07 09:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Interesting...I'll have to read into it some more, but to gain less friction without having to compensate for the coating, is pretty cool..nice how they can impregenate things nowadays!

It's those 'little details' that will not only make the engine more efficient (power), but last longer and give you some more insurance...

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bazeng
work in progress


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458340 posted 03/31/07 05:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
wow looks great!!!!
like it has a nice coat of clear on it...



Australia's Slowest VR4

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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic
475/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458350 posted 03/31/07 07:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Terry why you got to show me this now I want to spend another pocket full of money.



92 GVR4 0475/1000
Greenhouse Effect Green
Exceeds Mechanical Limits
"Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker

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Hksvr4
The New Vettel


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458362 posted 03/31/07 09:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
calico bearings have the same kind of coating.

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johnnyRacer
Member +++
50/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458394 posted 03/31/07 11:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
WOW, it looks very good Terry. I feel like a proud poppa whose son is going to play his first game. I may have to use this treatment on my 2.4 build up.


Edited by johnnyRacer (04/18/07 09:34 PM)

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grocery_getter
Senior Crab
836/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458395 posted 03/31/07 11:39 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
All good and all, but 10w30 is too thin for a race motor.

Andre

Quote:

No, I am using ARP assemby lube and Mobile 1 10-30.

I was told that normal "good quality" oil is just fine.

One of the biggest things that made me really want this done was that several dragsters have lost all oil pressure on the track and when the motor was tore down, the bearings/journals still looked new and did not need any work.

If that is the case, it may help our oil filter issues.





Andre
836/2000
PINA MOTORSPORTS
Facebook page

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Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458453 posted 03/31/07 04:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I will not be racing this motor for at least 1000 miles of break-in. Both for the tranny and the crank. I will be replacing the oil after that period. I plan on using the EIII turbo for at least this year.

I really don't want a thick oil to break in new bearings.

On a side note - The crank is in and all the caps are just finger tight right now. I am waiting on a set of 12point sockets (I only have 6 point in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive )

I should have everything torqued down in a few hours. I did buy the ARP lube and have used it and since this hardware is used already once, I wont need to tighten/release/tighten/release 4 times like the "new" instructions say.

I hope to have the motor completely re-assembled and the tranny ready to be bolted back up by Monday. Then call a very large freind to help press it up onto the block pins.

She may be running in a few short days.

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jcgalntvr4-244 Galant VR4.org Moderator
WAY 2 many
244/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458474 posted 03/31/07 06:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
TErry that thing looks like shit I know your not happy with it so just send it down here I will even pay for shipping!



1991 JDM Galant Vr4
1991 Galant Vr4 244/2000
1991 Galant Vr4 30/2000
1991 Galant Vr4 142/2000
Yeah Im an addict.......

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Hollowned
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458476 posted 03/31/07 06:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I don't want to insult your intelligence, but PLEASE make sure that you set your thrust bearing correctly with that sexy crank!

~Mark

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Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458483 posted 03/31/07 06:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This is what I was going to do:

When the thrust bearing is installed, AERA recommends a several step process to assure proper alignment.

Tighten main cap bolts to approximately 10 to 15 ft.lbs. to seat the bearings, then loosen.

Tap main cap toward rear of engine with a soft faced hammer. Then retighten main cap bolts finger tight.

Using a bar, force the crankshaft as far forward in the block as possible to align the bearing rear thrust faces.

While holding the crankshaft forward, tighten main cap bolts to 10 to 15 ft.lbs.

Finish tightening the main cap bolts to specifications in two or three equal steps. This should align the bearing thrust faces with the crankshaft to maximize the amount of load bearing area in contact with the crank.


Is that what you are talking about?



1992 Galant VR4 click
2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily

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Hollowned
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458503 posted 03/31/07 08:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I do it a bit differently..

1. Lightly seat (10-20 ft/lbs) all of the caps.
2. Back off finger tight.
3. Wiggle crank around to get the end most caps aligned
4. Torque down each tied (1-2, 4-5) cap set to specification
5. Very lightly seat the #3 cap
6. Pry/tap it to the rear
7. Tap crank back towards front to align rear thrust surface
8. Torque #3 cap
9. Check to make sure thrust is not on low side of spec (indicates misaligned cap)
10. Check crank rotation after every final torque.

Grocmax method.

~Mark

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grocery_getter
Senior Crab
836/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458684 posted 04/01/07 01:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Terry, you are not implying that you are planning to break in the motor with Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 in it are you?



Quote:

I will not be racing this motor for at least 1000 miles of break-in. Both for the tranny and the crank. I will be replacing the oil after that period. I plan on using the EIII turbo for at least this year.

I really don't want a thick oil to break in new bearings.

On a side note - The crank is in and all the caps are just finger tight right now. I am waiting on a set of 12point sockets (I only have 6 point in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive )

I should have everything torqued down in a few hours. I did buy the ARP lube and have used it and since this hardware is used already once, I wont need to tighten/release/tighten/release 4 times like the "new" instructions say.

I hope to have the motor completely re-assembled and the tranny ready to be bolted back up by Monday. Then call a very large freind to help press it up onto the block pins.

She may be running in a few short days.





Andre
836/2000
PINA MOTORSPORTS
Facebook page

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rheckert
I Love Wagons


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458687 posted 04/01/07 02:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^That is the impresion I get as well.



Family hauler -Yes it has a locking diff.

AWD goodness with 4 doors


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Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458708 posted 04/01/07 03:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Why not?

Why would you use a thick oil. Thick oil takes alot longer to get pumped into all the small spaces. I want oil pressure ASAP. I am not going to push this motor at all for quite some time.

I have always used 10-30 in my 4G63, vette, trans ams, etc.

Explain to me why you use heavy oil for DD?



1992 Galant VR4 click
2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily

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spooling92vr4
Yeah Toast! * Now with JELLY!!!
829/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458716 posted 04/01/07 04:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
because your rings need to seat and synthetic oil will not allow them to seat properly.



92 vr4 belize green # 829/1000....NOW RUNS! still needs tuning

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Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458733 posted 04/01/07 05:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The pistons have been in the motor for 1 year. They have 8000 miles on them already.



1992 Galant VR4 click
2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily

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JNR
5 star (English Professor) member Has extensive pop up picture book collection
20/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458745 posted 04/01/07 05:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, if you do break it in with synthetic, don't ever put anything else in...

There are a lot of lubes and other gunk in the system as well, that to me a heavier oil may help keep moving along, so to speak....you do have some extra insurance with the coatings...I think the most important part of a break in is the cam/valvetrain, with immediately bring it up to ~2,500rpms for 20 mins or so...then change the oil.

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grocery_getter
Senior Crab
836/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458747 posted 04/01/07 05:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Terry,

What this has got to do with old pistons? You are not breaking in the pistons.

My concerns are with the rings and bore finish.

Are you going to reuse the old rings with the old pistons? Did you get the bore re-hone?

A non detergent 30W is what we used to break in rings for one heat cycle in brand new motor. It is a very thin oil that is used to flush the bearings and all the journals. After one heat cycle we will replace the filter and oil and put in new filter with detergent 30w. That first heat cycle is also a good time to be looking for leaks and burp the cooling system properly while waiting for the engine to come up to temperature. Afterwards its good to pull that valve cover and retorque your head fasteners.

Detergent 30w will be used for breaking in the new rings properly. I don't let my customer put in synthetic in their motor till at least 1000 miles, and even then its 15w40 synthetic or 20w50 synthetic.

The 10w30 synthetic is too thin, leave that for the Camrys and other low powered 4 banger.

Notice I never mention breaking in the bearings or breaking in the cams (I don't know why people still insist that they need to be breaking in the cams even with our roller rockers) When breaking in these motors, your only concerns should just be seating the rings to wall properly. You'll never get the rings to seat right with synthetic.

Andre



Andre
836/2000
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Terry Posten
Old Balls
425/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458818 posted 04/01/07 10:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I never removed the head or pistons. The crank broke and I caught it before any damage was done to the rods block or main caps. I was only a mile from my home and I was able to limp it home under 1500 revs.

So the piston rings/walls are fully seated from over a year ago when Mark at AMS built this motor.

When I got the motor, it was a complete long block with the head and intake fully assembled. There was no cams in the head so I put my 3G lifters, rockers, and 264 cams in from my last motor.

I never cracked the head from the block. The cams/lifters have about 50 miles on them in this motor so they already have oil up there.

I plan on unpluging the MPI relay to spin the motor over for a little bit before I apply fire and fuel. That should get the oil pumping. I do have an oil pressure gauge so I will be able to see oil pressure rise.

SSSOOOO, when I stated that the pistons were a year old, I meant that the pistons/rings were already seated and have plenty of miles on them.



I will be going to 40 oil in a few hundred miles along with a new filter.



1992 Galant VR4 click
2010 Outlander GT S-AWC Premium w/nav (wife daily)
2010 Jaguar XF Premium Luxury (my daily

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grocery_getter
Senior Crab
836/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458927 posted 04/02/07 08:49 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got it Chief!

Andre



Andre
836/2000
PINA MOTORSPORTS
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toybreaker Galant VR4.org Moderator
it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus
1990/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 458982 posted 04/02/07 10:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Terry, before you put the t-belt on, prelube your motor with the oil pump.

Just take a 14mm socket on a cordless screwdriver/drill and turn up the oil pump (clockwise) for a minute or two. That will push oil thru the whole system, filling the filter, all the passages, and the lifters. You can tell it's working when the drill bogs down a little.
Then just keep going untill you don't hear any squishy noises. (That's air being bled out in various places from the bearings, lifters, etc)

Please, do NOT use an impact, or even an air ratchet, because you can over tighten the oil pump sprocket nut, stripping or breaking it in the process. The oil will resist, and higher power tools=trouble.

If you do this with the valve cover off, be sure to cover the two lifter passage bleed holes at the cam gear end of the passages. If you don't you're going to spray the bottom of the hood, (not that I would know or anything )

I prelube all the motors I build this way, and it works sweet!!!

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