Re: The ultimate street galant in the making? Cheekychimp's
|
cheekychimp  Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls
|
posted 09/22/06 12:31 AM
Well, finally got back down to the shop yesterday and pulled the spare fuel tank I picked up from Ken (Yiuwa's friend and Hong Kong resident VR4 expert). We used POR-15 marine clean and metal ready to clean out of the inside of the tank and then prepped and painted the whole exterior with POR-15 (including the filler neck which was in my opinion by far the most important part to do). Every Mitsu I have had has had water in the fuel at some point due to that filler neck rusting through and getting holes in it. Tried to fit Al's stainless steel fuel pump housing ... it doesn't fit  ... Al and I deliberated for a long time over the length of housing to use and picked the one to fit the existing tank, then this other tank turned up in almost perfect condition but it is shallower  Nevermind, it's an easy fix, we'll just rebend the fuel pump support at the right length, drill and tap a hole and cut off the extra. We had some paint left over so we also did some of the underbody supports for the skid plate and the dump tube. I don't think the POR-15 will stand up to the heat but given that it is so tough, I thought I'd give it a go for the hell of it. We'll be doing the underbody next week. Now I just need to get a hold of Andre!!!
Posts: 7333 | From: East Sussex, U.K. | Member Since: 04/19/04 | IP: (58.152.165.144) |
|
|
|
|
|
cheekychimp  Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls
|
posted 09/26/06 11:14 AM
Quote:
Paul, are you using Chassis Coat Black for your underbody POR-15ing? The other option would be regular black color POR-15, but the chassis paint would seem to be a better option due to it's thickness and texture. Are you painting the suspenion components as well?
Also, are you going through the full procedure when you put it on (Surface rust removal -> Marine Clean -> Metal Ready -> Por-15)? Also, about how much of each of those products have you estimated the whole job will take?
Okay, first off I ordered 8 quarts of the standard black POR-15 and 2 quarts of chassis coat, 4 quarts each of the marine clean and solvent and 8 quarts of metal ready. I estimated this was sufficient for 2 cars as Yiuwa is hoping to do this as well. When I'm done I'll tell you what I have done and how much I used.
So far I have only used the standard POR-15, not the chassis coat. One thing I noticed from reading the literature was that the chassis coat wasn't recommended as a rust preventative but rather as a top coat since the standard POR-15 is not UV resistant. I therefore intend to do everything with the POR-15 first and then use chassis coat on areas that are exposed to sunlight (engine bay) or are likely to get a lot of abuse (skid plate). In order to keep the car quiet, I might also do a light coat of rubber underbody coating but I'm undecided on that at the moment.
As for doing the "full procedure", I did it on the fuel tank but on the chassis today we just attacked the surface with a wire brush and cleaned it down. The whole process seems to help if areas are badly rusted or oily but it doesn't seem to offer any advantage on smooth unrusted surfaces. I think the marine clean will be necessary on the underbody to remove oil.
Please use gloves with marine clean. It will strip your skin!
Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!
Edited by cheekychimp (09/26/06 03:59 PM)
Posts: 7333 | From: East Sussex, U.K. | Member Since: 04/19/04 | IP: (219.79.137.182) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
skivittlerjimb Senior Member 280/1000
|
posted 09/26/06 08:29 PM
Quote:
POR15 doesn't stand up to exhaust heat very well.
This might work. 
Thanks for all the answers, Paul. I didn't realize Chassis Coat wasn't really a rust preventative. I'll likely go the same route as you, but I'm guessing I'll have a lot more rust to remove!
-Jim B. 1432/2000 167k
Posts: 1440 | From: Danville, CA | Member Since: 06/20/03 | IP: (71.254.7.69) |
|
|
turboflanagan I would give myself something respectable. 478/1000
|
posted 09/27/06 08:33 AM
Quote:
Oh yeah and where's my 'new' lightweight carpet?
Hehehe, yours will be infused with lead... and yes, you will be responsible for the shipping.
Not quite 1400whp.
Posts: 2551 | From: Peachtree Corners, Georgia, US... | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.157.244.33) |
|
|
|
|
JB Other
|
posted 09/29/06 10:57 AM
Quote:
I just have to say... pages 16 and 17 FTW!!!1
+1!!!11one
JBiz
Half Man, Half Amazing
Posts: 5836 | From: MA | Member Since: 08/15/04 | IP: (68.162.196.180) |
|
|
|
cheekychimp  Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls
|
posted 10/08/06 04:32 PM
Well, the engine is out together with the entire front axle/cross member assembly. We stripped the engine bay of pretty much everything, just a couple of cables, parts of the wiring harness and pipes that we couldn't be bothered to pull in from the cabin. Then we did a bit of welding to strengthen things up. Nothing fancy and nothing that would frighten the likes of Andre or Al but it should get the job done and most of it will be hidden under the fenders anyway. The POR-15 is getting real old now. We went over everything with chassis coat, which means I painted the entire engine bay, by hand, TWICE on Saturday. Next day off that I get we have to pull the car to the other side of the shop and do the passenger side of the car (Hong Kong real estate prices make for small workshops - a lot of you guys have private garages that are bigger, I kid you not!) Then the underneath of the car has to be painted. It's slow work but I am finally making some progress. We have deleted the ABS. The big computer/distribution block in 'my' passenger fender well has left a big space that looks like it will be perfect for an external oil cooler mounted horizontally with a fan underneath fed with air through the right hand vent on the hood. It may also fit the accumulator and remote oil filter if I'm lucky. We are looking at putting an ARC style airbox in the other corner now that the battery has gone, fed from the other vent. We also tried to test fit the intercooler which has me completely baffled. The mounting tabs on the cooler don't match anything on the JDM chassis (not a big deal as I intend to use an L-shaped angle iron support to mount and protect the intercooler anyway). I think however I'll need to get the new engine in and work out the mounting from there together with the pipe routing and JDM bumper cover to make sure I trim the chassis in the right places. On a final note, I have some carbon fibre JDM style vents. They will be somewhat obsolete on John's hood above but at the same time I think the JDM vents make for an aggressive look. So I'm seriously considering fitting the vents further back on the rear of the hood. My friend put his vents there on the hood of his Supra powered Aristo and they look really good. I don't want water dripping onto the engine there during the rain though, so however ricer it may be, I think I'll just drill and surface mount them without cutting any holes in the hood underneath.
Posts: 7333 | From: East Sussex, U.K. | Member Since: 04/19/04 | IP: (219.79.154.63) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Myles Douchebagel with Lox
|
posted 11/14/06 01:54 PM
Quote:
Says 'smartbin' on them.
sams club smart bin
1929/2000 *SOLD*
Posts: 5264 | From: Skokie, IL | Member Since: 08/08/06 | IP: (72.16.167.11) |
|
|
|
curtis  Space Blanket from NASA plumbed into the attic 475/1000
|
posted 11/15/06 09:28 AM
92 GVR4 0475/1000
Greenhouse Effect Green
Exceeds Mechanical Limits "Put the dawg to work.
Ass, Gas or Milkbones. Nobody rides for free" Jon AKA Toybreaker
Posts: 11892 | From: Clarksville TN | Member Since: 05/04/03 | IP: (71.87.160.204) |
|
|