New Owner of 820/1000
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GSTwithPSI A hole 820/1000 1837/2000
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posted 04/11/15 11:17 PM
Well, I'll start from the beginning on how I ended up with 820/1000. I had a Craigslist ad up for a DSM shell/roller. I didn't really want a shell, but I was striking out pretty hard trying to find a complete rear DSM subframe to swap into 1837. I get a text from Brad Brooks (I didn't know it was him at first), who is a fairly well known tuner here on the East Coast. He apparently saw my ad, and hit me up asking if I wanted to buy another Galant VR4. At this point, Brad introduced me to a gentleman named Doug. Doug was the PO of 820/1000, and an awesome guy. He cut me a great deal on the car and a pile of parts to go with it.
The car was sitting for 6 years prior to me dragging it home an hour and a half from Virginia. I was told this car was owned by Marty Grand as some point. Overall, it's in decent condition, but needs A LOT of love. It has some rust issues, which have migrated their way into the body. Mechanically, it seems sound. I changed the oil and threw some fresh gas into the car and it fired right up. It purrs like a kitten. I'll need to do some work on the brakes and rear suspension, along with general maintenance items.
It's lightly modded: -some kind of homebrew turbo back exhaust
-FMIC and hard piping
-hacked air can and K&N filter
-KYB adjustables and lowering springs
-front strut bar
-adjustable camber arms and welded trailing arms w/ energy susp bushings -BSA Top 17 x 7 wheels wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza S-03's So far, I welded up one of the trailing arms and installed new rear bearings, seals and a hub/spindle. The other arm was already welded up when I got the car. I rebuilt the rear calipers (thanks for the parts Doug) and slapped on some new rotors. Tomorrow, I need to bleed the brakes and hopefully take it out for a drive for the first time in nearly a decade. As far as plans for the car go, it will stay mostly stock. The rust is rough in some places, and I'm not really up for doing all the body work it would take to completely correct all the problem areas. I'm going to neutralize the rust, and patch it up the best I can without getting too involved. I always wanted to do ridiculous shit to a VR-4, like throw on a set of fender flares, or delete the rear spoiler. Maybe this will be the car I can try out all the extravagant stuff I've always been too scared to do to 1837.
820/1000 1837/2000 1546/2000-SOLD 1813/2000-SOLD
Edited by GSTwithPSI (04/11/15 11:22 PM)
Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) |
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GSTwithPSI A hole 820/1000 1837/2000
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posted 04/13/15 09:45 PM
Meh, it's got potential. So the head unit in the car is missing the faceplate. I pulled the deck out to see what model it was and got a pleasant surprise. It's an old Alpine CDA-7939, which is a great deck. Now, I just need to find a faceplate for it. Checked on Ebay, and came up bone dry. I'll have to keep an eye out. Next, I had to figure out how to get the front wheels off. They had locking lugs on them, which were proving impossible to remove...Until I found this sweet socket at AutoZone. You basically just run in onto the exterior of the lug with an impact and it zips right off. I was astounded how awesome it worked. It took longer to remove the lug nut from the socket than it did getting the locking lug off the car. I ended up having to thread a bolt into the lug and clamp it in a vise. The moral of the story is, don't lose your lug key. The last thing I did was delete the ABS. I've only ever done this in the past when the motor was out of the car. This is the first time I did it with the motor in, and it fucking sucked. Aside from the new non-ABS prop valve, I didn't take any pics of the process. After that, I bleed the brakes and took it for a quick spin around the block. The car runs and shifts great. It fires right up and even idles flawlessly. So far, I'm super happy with it. It looks like a turd, but runs like a champ!
Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) |
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Jesus_Negros Unempowered ADMIN
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posted 04/14/15 08:40 AM
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Where you gonna be?
northern va and Virginia Beach area
Quoting coyotes:
Just because you WANT your rare turd to be valuable doesn't mean it's gonna be.
Posts: 2338 | From: USA | Member Since: 01/07/12 | IP: (74.100.130.83) |
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GSTwithPSI A hole 820/1000 1837/2000
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posted 04/14/15 08:18 PM
Quoting iceman69510:
I think the car looks decent, and you have done some nice stuff to it already.
Why remove the ABS immediately, not functioning or just hate it?
Nah, I would have left it be if I could have. When I got the car, the passenger rear caliper had been off for some time. The brake system was left open to the air, which caused a slew of problems. For starters, the hoses from the brake master reservoir ballooned. I replaced the reservoir, hoses and also the master cylinder itself. Afterwards, I tried to bleed the brakes and couldn't get the passenger rear caliper to bleed. After flushing all the lines and the ABS unit, I figured out the prop valve was frozen. I had to swap in a new prop valve, but the only one I had was a non-ABS valve, hence the ABS delete.
820/1000 1837/2000 1546/2000-SOLD 1813/2000-SOLD
Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) |
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GSTwithPSI A hole 820/1000 1837/2000
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posted 04/16/15 10:08 PM
After a good wash, the car cleaned up decent. I was most impressed with the wheels; they look like new after a good scrub. The paint has seen better days, but I think I can patch up some areas to give the car a decent look overall. The hood and driver side rear quarter will obviously need some work/paint. I don't really dig the zebra color scheme, but the black paint kept things from rusting, which I'm grateful for. I fixed some more little stuff on the car. I swapped in a fresh MAF and K&N air filter. I also corrected the vacuum routing, which was all messed up. This car is pretty much bone stock under the hood. Even the EGR, BCS and FPS solenoids are still in place and hooked up. After I routed the vacuum lines back to everything like factory, I saw an improvement in drivability and idle quality. That's saying a lot, since the car was already running great. I put about 20 miles on it under all sorts of driving conditions. It performed flawlessly. Hell, the cruise control even works. For being nearly stock, it rips pretty good too. I can't wait to get all the maintenance done and start DD'n it. Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the car so far. It needs some work, but, what VR-4 doesn't? Up next: -180* T-stat -All new belts/hoses -Alignment -Plug wires -2g exhaust manifold -Fuel filter -Fuel pump rewire -New muffler -Install passenger dogleg -Deep clean the interior -Exterior paint touch up/detail -Underhood scrub ......Drive it...ALOT
Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) |
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GSTwithPSI A hole 820/1000 1837/2000
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posted 04/18/15 10:57 PM
Spent some time cleaning today. It's not done, but it's a good start. I pulled the fenders to gauge how much work I have to do. I knew there would be some rust when I picked the car up. The pinch welds showed the typical signs of rust behind the fenders, and there are a few other places that need attention. Just like on 1837, a bunch of crap got pinned between the fender and body and started to eat away at the lower rocker panel. There was A LOT more crap stuck on this car, though. Leaves, dirt, sand, and all kinds of poop in there. **WARNING: EXTREMELY GRAPHIC CONTENT** Passenger side: Driver side: It looks like poop, but it should clean up decent. The metal is solid and overall intact. I'll clean the area, remove the rust and apply an inhibitor. I've said it before, and I'll say it again; Pull those fenders and inspect/clean them every now and then. This is a good example of what can potentially happen if you don't.
Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) |
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