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still got me home tonight!


Yao
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152651 posted 12/19/13 04:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This was the fuse I put on the fuel pump rewire, don't know what caused it, but I got home. Weird part is that when I turn the key to off, the car still runs, that's what got me to trouble shoot and found this.







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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152689 posted 12/19/13 07:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


Bet the wire was too small and got it hot. Either that or the pump pulled too much current and the fuse didn't pop. I have seen that happen.

Homemade rewire, or kit?



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152692 posted 12/19/13 07:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ive seen it also happen from a ground that isn't properly tightened down.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152693 posted 12/19/13 07:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Chinese inline fuse. Or you swapped a fuse in that is too high for that gauge of wire.



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transparentdsm
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152694 posted 12/19/13 08:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
good call, if it got you home the amps on the fuse must have been higher then recommended for it to melt the wire like that.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152698 posted 12/19/13 08:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good time to ask, what is everyone using for Amp rating? I'm using a 15A and it seems fine.

Walbro 255HP



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152700 posted 12/19/13 08:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
same here. on 14g wire i think.

edit: i have a supra pump though



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Edited by transparentdsm (12/19/13 08:08 PM)

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152712 posted 12/19/13 08:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I ran 12g since it what I had. It works.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152714 posted 12/19/13 08:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
like i said im not sure i could have 12g, i bought a kit from MAP or one of those companies. so whatever is supposed to be in there.



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Yao
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152753 posted 12/20/13 09:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, it's a home made kit, and I ran a super heavy duty relay with 12 gauge wire all the way until the fuel pump cover with 30amp, I didn't want to drill out the cover to run it all the way. I'll double check the ground, are you talking about the ground at the relay or the fuel pump assembly? It is a cheap china fuse, I've put in another inline fuse with 20amp that is a better one, so I am gonna drive on that and keep an eye on it. what would cause the pump to draw more amp? dirty fuel filter? low fuel?



3"K&N, B16g, 2.5pipe, Synapse DV, ETS Frntmnt, FP4r, ZFG Long Block, 2g mani, evo3o2/5th, 3"exst,fic1100cc/walbro,
6an, poly mnts, DEL-abs/ps/4ws/egr/evp, Jack's tran, SB-clutch, evo8 whls-245/45/17/springs, 3kvr4 brakes, Koni, 4bolt rear,
ds-map, ntk.

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Yao
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152754 posted 12/20/13 09:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
by the way, why would the car still run with key shut off? Let's assume the wire is fused together and the pump gets power constantly. But shouldn't the ECU shut off injectors when the key is pulled? or cut the ignition when the key is pulled? I don't understand this part...



3"K&N, B16g, 2.5pipe, Synapse DV, ETS Frntmnt, FP4r, ZFG Long Block, 2g mani, evo3o2/5th, 3"exst,fic1100cc/walbro,
6an, poly mnts, DEL-abs/ps/4ws/egr/evp, Jack's tran, SB-clutch, evo8 whls-245/45/17/springs, 3kvr4 brakes, Koni, 4bolt rear,
ds-map, ntk.

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152760 posted 12/20/13 09:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had a buy bring me a GVR4 for diagnosis/repair once. Wouldn't start. Kept blowing fuses.

Fuel pump was rewired and the relay used had somehow shorted internally. Replaced relay, no more problem.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152776 posted 12/20/13 10:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would never run a 30A. That's why it burned up. I would rewire the whole thing with a high quality relay. Make sure the grounds are clean and you scrape down to bare metal at the ground. Also you should pull the pump out and run new power and ground wires straight to the pump.

The key issue sounds like an ignition switch fault, or a turbo timer. Also check the MPI main relay make sure it's clicking like it should.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
Honda/Acura master tech.
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Yao
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152812 posted 12/20/13 12:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Okay, I'll try the suggestions, thanks!! Here is the weird part, when I turn the key off and pull the key out of ign., the radio went off, the ecu even clicked off too??!! I do have fuse at the MPI line and when checked, it was okay. I've replaced the fuse with better quality and 20amp, might reduce to 15amp and the car seems to shut off and start normally now.



3"K&N, B16g, 2.5pipe, Synapse DV, ETS Frntmnt, FP4r, ZFG Long Block, 2g mani, evo3o2/5th, 3"exst,fic1100cc/walbro,
6an, poly mnts, DEL-abs/ps/4ws/egr/evp, Jack's tran, SB-clutch, evo8 whls-245/45/17/springs, 3kvr4 brakes, Koni, 4bolt rear,
ds-map, ntk.

Posts: 810 | From: Denver, CO | Member Since: 03/06/01 | IP: (173.245.50.100) | Report this post to a Moderator


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