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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175865 posted 06/09/14 01:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the positive feedback, guys. I put up a WTB ad for a new hanger, and then started thinking about my other options. The biggest problem I was facing with was dealing with the terminals going through the pump hanger. I looked around online for ideas and found these:



The problem with these is number one, they are like 10 bucks a piece (and you need 3) and two, they require 1 1/4" hole (too big to insert 3 of them in the pump hanger). I started trying to think of ways and materials I could substitute with, and came up with what you see above. The hardware cost me under $10 bucks at a local Ace Hardware store, so the stuff to do this is readily available for anyone. I hope this helps someone else faced with a similar situation. To finish up, you just need to insert a fitting to hook up the pump. That can be easily accomplished any number of ways; from welding in a new -AN fitting to tapping the hanger and using a bolt in fitting.

David, my fuel tank isn't really up to my standards. The inside is spotless, but the outside has a few little surface rust spots. It's definitely in passable condition, but rusty crap only gets worse over time. If I take care of it now, it will be much easier than dealing with a potential problem down the road. Couple that with the fact that GVR4 fuel tanks in good shape are pretty much impossible to get and I think my only choice is to drop it to recondition the exterior.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/09/14 05:02 PM)

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1176466 posted 06/14/14 08:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, spent the whole day working on the shit bucket. Enjoy!

Welded my -6AN fitting to the sender. It turned out better than I expected, seeing as I'm using a cheap gasless MIG welder. I can't complain though, that thing always seems to get the job it done.



I Sealed it up with Rust Bullet. Now I just need to wait 24 hours before applying the top coat. After that, just need to assemble and drop it back in the tank.


Here's my poopy fuel tank. This was right after I pulled it from the car, but it was in pretty good shape overall. Most of the damage was just surface rust on the exterior. For some reason, the corrosion from the fuel hanger carried over to the tank, and that screwed shit all up. The inside is pristine though, so I ain't even mad.




Here it is after a few beers and some cleaning...





And after a few coats of Rust Bullet.





Mother of God, more parts that look like poop.





Aaaaaaand without the poop.




Suck it, G. The rear of the car is rust free despite the crappy looking fuel tank. I'm still gonna give it the Rust Bullet treatment just like I did the wheel wells, though. I contemplated dropping the rear subframe to restore it, but wasn't man enough to pull the trigger. Maybe another day...




Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1176816 posted 06/18/14 05:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I finished up all the fuel system components over the week. Here's how everything turned out:

Reconditioned hanger and Walbro 255 installed.





Rust proofed fuel tank.





And a new Mitsu OEM filter to finish things off for the fuel system.



Lastly, the new intercooler going on the car.

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1176872 posted 06/19/14 02:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Everything is turning out great, dude.

I'm still surprised by the amount of surface rust on a lot of the underside components for this being a Cali car. I mean, I drove 503 for several winters skiing while I owned it as did the previous owners. Not a hint of rust on anything underneath. I mean nothing, not even bolt heads. I wonder if that thing was somewhere else before it's life in California.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11932 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (96.39.152.94) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1176899 posted 06/19/14 06:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the kind words, Mark.

The car spent some time in Utah, and Ohio, if my memory serves me correctly. I had a Carfax report pulled, but for the life of me I can seem to find where I dumped it on my computer. Suffice it to say, it wasn't a Cali car for most of it's life. As of now, the only thing that has a hint of rust left on it are some of the rear subframe components. I contemplated dropping the rear end and redoing everything, but I don't really have the time or money right now. I'd like to find a clean 4 bolt DSM subframe and just do a 1 for 1 swap, eliminating the 4WS and all the other BS. If it were in really crappy shape I'd have no choice, but everything is functioning good without any leaks so I'm going to leave it be. I've torn into the car way deeper than I had ever planned on from the start. I'm satisfied with the restoration up to this point, as I think I have hit all the major areas I felt needed immediate attention. At this point, I need to start getting everything back together if I have any hopes of making it to the shootout.

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1177071 posted 06/21/14 04:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Fuel tank bolted up:



Fuel pump bolted in and rewired:



-6 AN pump to feed:



I fired up the fuel pump using the test port under the hood, and no leaks! I made an initial fuel pressure adjustment, and the fuel system should be good to go now. I'm just waiting on some piping and couplers to finish up the intercooler, and then this thing should be up and running.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/21/14 04:10 PM)

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1177080 posted 06/21/14 05:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      



1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #1951/2000 (SOLD)
2003 Evo
2001 Prelude
2018 JK Wrangler
2002 Honda Odyssey

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (2602:306:cd73:c1) | Report this post to a Moderator

jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
Too Clean
1881/2000
50/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1177100 posted 06/22/14 12:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice work! Frankly, people get way too worked up over a little rust. You handles it nicely.



-Jeff
1881/2000
50/1000

Posts: 7871 | From: KC, Missouri | Member Since: 08/08/04 | IP: (23.255.162.211) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1177197 posted 06/22/14 11:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That has to be the cleanest stock tank I have ever seen! Good job man.



2001 R34 Nissan Skyline “Eleanor”
JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara"

Posts: 3705 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP: (172.56.7.3) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178119 posted 06/29/14 09:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, this isn't good...



You have to disassemble the entire hub just to get the lug stud out. I figured this was as good a time as any to replace the wheel bearing. Here's the hub with everything removed; bearing, seals, everything pressed out.





Here's all the new stuff. It's pretty simple, just a bearing, snap ring, and 2 seals.



Aaaaaaand...everything all assembled.





I mounted up my oil cooler.



Got the radiator in.



And, now for the good part...








The core just barely fits behind the bumper.







The car is getting really close to being done. I just have a few more little things to button up. I have a couple days off coming up for the 4th of July, and am hoping to have the car running by the end of next weekend.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/29/14 09:26 PM)

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178120 posted 06/29/14 09:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks good dude, nice work.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178121 posted 06/29/14 09:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I know most of the time pictures don't do things justice and this looks great! I can only Imagine how nice it looks in person.



click

Posts: 1278 | From: Beaverton | Member Since: 09/26/12 | IP: (24.22.46.133) | Report this post to a Moderator

strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178278 posted 06/30/14 03:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What are the big plastic caps on the strut towers?



1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

Posts: 2766 | From: Savannah, GA | Member Since: 08/30/05 | IP: (2602:304:ab3a:8f) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178313 posted 06/30/14 05:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
They are super cool JDM covers



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178373 posted 07/01/14 12:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I like those fans, my intake pipe is pushed against my fans so it may be time to upgrade.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1178977 posted 07/03/14 09:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The car is really close to being done. I bolted the exhaust back up, and it looks great all painted up. I filled the trans up with MT-90, and the transfer case and rear diff both got new ShockProof.


I also primed the engine using the T00ners method, which worked great. It's super easy, and primed the system all the way up to the head.




All the oil you see in the picture was pumped in through the bottom. I didn't add any oil up top, and you can see the result. The HLAs are nice and oiled.




B16G...




A few shots of the engine bay with the intake installed. It's about 95% complete at this point.






I have to install the plugs, add coolant, and do a few more little things to get the car all buttoned up. Hopefully I can get it running tomorrow .

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179005 posted 07/04/14 09:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I love how tidy everything is. The engine bay is looking terrific!

that said, stock intercooler hoses & air intake, 16g, good sized front mount and a magnus? I'm confused.



-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179015 posted 07/04/14 10:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the compliments, guys. I really appreciate the positive feedback.

Andrew, I had a bit of a parts conundrum on my hands. I began this build way before I planned to because of issues with that came up with the car. I basically made the call to install the parts that I had while the motor was out, knowing I didn't have all the pieces I truly needed for a well rounded build. I'm making plans to do more upgrades in the future so the setup is more balanced. I think this is a great setup to break in the new motor, though. I'll be upgrading as time goes on and budget allows.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (07/04/14 10:32 AM)

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179062 posted 07/04/14 09:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Finished up the car today. I'll be firing it up for the first time tomorrow morning. Hopefully everything goes good, and I can start breaking in the new motor. Fingers crossed...




820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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G Galant VR4.org Moderator
JDM Unit
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179072 posted 07/05/14 01:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Dang, nice progress. Looking good looking good.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8891 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (2605:a000:1402:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

the_underdog
Member +
1444/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179182 posted 07/06/14 07:39 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good luck man, your car looks great and I love the progress you've made with it!



-Tom
My Galant- 1444/2000

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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179435 posted 07/07/14 09:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks really nice. I was thinking that saying "throw a rod" would be analogous to saying "break a leg" but i feel like given your history that wouldn't really be funny. Anyhow, good work, hope that thing is running as we speak.



1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #1951/2000 (SOLD)
2003 Evo
2001 Prelude
2018 JK Wrangler
2002 Honda Odyssey

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (108.215.60.17) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179444 posted 07/07/14 10:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
G, Tom, David, thank you.

David, if there's one thing I've learned here, it's you live and learn. Actually, I believe Mark may have taught me that .

I got the car running pretty good, but I ran into a problem with the intercooler pipe that wraps over the manifold. I think it was a bit too close to the manifold. The heat coupled with the pressure was just too much. It blew apart while I was doing some breakin runs. I only got about 16 miles on the car.


I have some kinks to work out. My timing light took a shit, so I couldn't set the base timing. The clutch slave needs to be replaced, as it seem to be weeping a little fluid. I need to do a boost leak test to make sure everything is sealed up tight. Just little stuff overall, which I feel is to be expected when so many changes are made to the setup at one time.

I have a question for guys running the Magnus SMIM, though: Do you have any issues with your shifter cable routing? My shifter cables exit the firewall right under the Magnus manifold. It makes it impossible to route them so they aren't contacting the bottom of the throttle body. The Magnus places the TB about 3 or 4 inches lower than the stock manifold. Anyone else experience this?

Lastly, I've read to do an oil change 20 miles after the first startup. Sound right to you guys?

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179453 posted 07/08/14 02:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My cables contact the underside of the throttle body as well due to the Magnus. It's a common issue. Anthony (Mitsuturbo) fixed this by installing an ISC from a different car, which is a great idea. It bothered me at first, but after years of it being that way, I don't even worry about it anymore.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051


Edited by turbowop (07/08/14 02:39 AM)

Posts: 11932 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (96.39.152.94) | Report this post to a Moderator

ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1179469 posted 07/08/14 09:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
~20 miles sounds about right. I think you want to get the oil up to operating temp, call it 180 or 200, and let the temp combined with the circulation get any left over micro grit and crap that didn't make it out during final cleaning/assembly.

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (108.215.60.17) | Report this post to a Moderator


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