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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172646 posted 05/19/14 10:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, Mark, they are pretty rough, which is why I decided to pull them and give them a makeover. I did take a peek at your old thread. How did you remove the adjustment knob? I don't see a clear way to take them off. I see the large nut securing the threaded body, and then a smaller nut at the base of the knob. The knob itself is keyed on top for an allen wrench. How do you get it apart?

The cad plating is the coating I was referring to. I guess at this point, worrying about removing it is moot. I'll just hit all the parts I can with a wire brush, and finish them with some paint. What kind of grease did you use on the dampers?

Thomas, I'm not going to send them out for a rebuild. For one, I don't want to drop the cash, and two, they are functioning just fine. They just need a little TLC. If I just left them on the car as is they'd probably rot apart in a year or two. Kinda the story of my life. Once I really started to dig into the car, I found there were a lot of things that bothered me and that I felt needed to be addressed. Luckily I have the time to go through everything, and give each issue the attention it needs. In the end, it will be nice to have piece of mind, and know everything on the car is in good working order. That being said, 1837 still isn't half the ass pain 1813 was. I'm not sure anyone should buy a 20 year old car and expect not to have to do anything to it. It's all good practice in the end.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172649 posted 05/19/14 10:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah Brett good luck with everything. You seem to be a champ so I don't think it will be a problem for you. Sometimes I dislike looking at everyone else's cars because the list of stuff to do to mine is so long, and a lot of people's cars are so well sorted. Makes me think about the cars I had in the mid 2000s and how well set up they would be by now if I stuck with em.

But then again I'd be scared to drive my car anywhere if it looked like mark's.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1173394 posted 05/24/14 07:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I made a bit of progress on the car today. I got my Paulo fiberglass dual gauge pod installed, with Greddy boost and EGT gauges filling the holes. Typically, I like the gauges to match the cluster. Surprisingly though, the white face gauges look pretty good on a white car IMO. At night, they match the green glow perfectly.




I spent the rest of the day (5 hours) trying to get my JICs all cleaned up. It took forever, but they look 100% better than they did. I think it may be time to invest in a sand blasting cabinet. Now that they are all clean, I just need to finish them up with some paint. I was thinking about powder coating, but the turnaround time is a dealbreaker.





So how do you guys adjust your ride height initially? I have always just set the coils to where I think they should be, and then made guess and check adjustments from there. I measure the coilover length from side to side, and measure the ride height from front to back to get the car level. I always hated adjusting the coils, because it takes forever jacking the car up and down a million times. Anyone got the secrets to success for me, or is it a pain in the ass process no matter how you do it?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1173405 posted 05/24/14 09:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
unlock the collars and rotate the shock body in the lower mount housing with both hands to adjust height, you don't have to remove the coilover fully at the bottom in order to adjust. When on the ground, measure the height of the vehicle from the top of the inside of the fender lip to the ground. Adjust to your liking. That's pretty much the easiest way to do it, and yes it takes forever, but once it's right you won't have to screw with it again. On my S13 I would mark the shock body with a sharpie for my summer and winter heights, that way I wouldn't have to remeasure everything again and fiddle with it for days.

The lower collar on your coilover locks the body to the lower mount housing, the upper collar you can use to set spring preload. Which, if you don't know what it is you might as well leave it alone. I would always add in a little bit to start (hand snug the upper locking collar to the bottom of the spring, then about half to one rotation of the locking collar. and adjust from there. I'd talk to some guys who track their VR4s to see what they are doing and if that matches to what you want out of your car.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1173418 posted 05/24/14 11:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice work on those, big improvement! I had a black faced Greddy boost gauge on the A pillar in 1951. Same green illumination. I was quite pleased with how close of a match it was.

Good base settings for preload and overall length would save some time. I bet that the JIC manual came with these specs...in Japanese, and i'd be hugely surprised if you had it. I found this manual from JIC USA but it's pretty generic. Maybe hit up Mueller? I don't expect him to divulge proprietary info, but maybe they could just hook you up with some good starting measurements. On a length adjustable damper, you will want to be able to measure preload and total length.

Preload i'd probably measure from the hat to the spring perch (note: the perch, as in not the smaller collar that sits under the perch acting as a lock). Then measure total length of the unit. I imagine there are several ways to measure preload and overall length so be sure and get on the same page with whoever gives you specs.

edit: I doubt Mueller has set a lot of these up on gvr4s, so if they hooked you up with info you might need to take your best guess on compensation for gvr4.


Edited by ApexHunter (05/24/14 11:48 PM)

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (2602:306:cd73:c1) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1173535 posted 05/25/14 07:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, I'm no suspension genius, and I doubt I'm going to get any free help from Mueller. I never even got a response about getting some replacement parts from them. JIC says there's no need to preload the spring, so I'll just settle for the straight 8k in front and 7k in the rear. The car isn't really going to see much that would require performance handling aside from an autocross event or something anyways. I've been doing a lot of reading in the realm of suspension setups in regard to spring preload and such. There's so much difference of opinion on the subject that the information is almost conflicting. The one thing that seems to be a constant is the guess and check methodology. Guys will try something and see if it worked, and then learn and adjust further from there. I think I'll play around a bit and see what I like best. I'm looking for streetability above all else, and don't want the car to ride like a fuckin log wagon at the expense of being able to corner a bit better.

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1174226 posted 05/29/14 07:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've been debating how to tackle the 3G master cylinder port mismatch issue. Despite others having good luck simply threading the double flare fitting into the bubble flare port, I just wasn't comfortable doing it. I decided to swap in some -3AN stainless braided brake lines rather than use the stock hardlines. This allowed me to use mismatched fittings on each end of the line to adapt to the double and bubble flares on opposite ends. It ended up working really well, and I'm pretty happy with how it looks also. Hands down, the 3G master and ABS delete do wonders to tidy up the engine bay. I still have to bleed everything, but the brakes are pretty much good to go. Here are the parts required for the swap:

-3AN x 10mm x 1.0 to bubble flare
-3AN x 10mm x 1.0 to inverted flare
20" -3AN Straight to 90°
14" -3AN Straight to Straight











At this point, I'm just trying to work out a solution for an intercooler setup. I should have my coilovers reassembled and reinstalled this weekend. It's getting down to the little things, which is a good feeling.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1174230 posted 05/29/14 07:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That is awesome! I will try to do the same with the 3kgt master! Thanks for posting this!



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

Posts: 473 | From: Arlington, Va | Member Since: 12/06/11 | IP: (66.87.64.21) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175487 posted 06/06/14 09:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got the JICs back together. Pretty happy with how they turned out.




Scrubbed down the rear wheel wells and sealed them up with Rust Bullet and BlackShell. I wanted to get everything all cleaned before I reinstalled the coilovers. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.









Decided to install the EGT probe in the O2 housing.




I also finished the rewire up front for the battery relocation.



Got the quick release Injector plugs wired in. Thanks Chris!



I also tucked most of the wiring harness and got it routed and connected up. My intercooler is on the way, so I'm hoping to get this finished up soon.




820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/06/14 10:50 PM)

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175494 posted 06/06/14 09:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks great! Thanks for posting a the pics. I'm terrible at remembering to take pics while working on the car.



1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

Posts: 2766 | From: Savannah, GA | Member Since: 08/30/05 | IP: (74.243.110.84) | Report this post to a Moderator

faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175503 posted 06/06/14 10:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Amazing work!!



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

Posts: 473 | From: Arlington, Va | Member Since: 12/06/11 | IP: (75.80.62.177) | Report this post to a Moderator

BENE38A
Slanging Kiwi parts


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175509 posted 06/06/14 11:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
nice!, engine bay looks extremely tidy mate.



1991 Mitsubishi Galant vr4 RS

Posts: 261 | From: New Zealand | Member Since: 09/02/13 | IP: (116.251.176.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175517 posted 06/07/14 08:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Love what you did with the relocation and the smaller fusible link box.



2001 R34 Nissan Skyline “Eleanor”
JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara"

Posts: 3705 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP: (172.56.14.174) | Report this post to a Moderator

CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175535 posted 06/07/14 10:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
1G throttle body elbow?



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

Posts: 1579 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (24.60.132.248) | Report this post to a Moderator

strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175575 posted 06/07/14 03:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was curious about that too. With the attention to detail seen on just about every other aspect of the car, I figured it had to be a temporary solution.



1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175599 posted 06/07/14 07:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
As of now, the 1G TB elbow is going to stay because I'm still utilizing the stock IC pipes.

I went to pull the fuel pump and drop in my Walbro 255 today. Luckily all the little 8mm bolts came loose, but the fuel line didn't go so easily. I twisted the line right off. The other side attached to the car was much better though, and came off just fine. The hanger looks like complete shit, and I'll be on the hunt for a new one. FML.



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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175652 posted 06/07/14 10:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^^^

Those JICs sure did come out nice though!!

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (2602:306:cd73:c1) | Report this post to a Moderator

coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175656 posted 06/07/14 10:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
car looks great, you have put a lot of hard work into it.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175771 posted 06/08/14 08:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks to everyone for the compliments on the car. I can finally see some light at the end of the tunnel. It seems like every time I think I'm wrapping up though, I find something else that bothers me and needs attention. The latest issue is with my fuel pump. The hanger has seen better days. I'm on a really tight budget right now, so I decided to see what I could do with the pump hanger I already have.

Started with this:



Then turned it into this:





Because the hanger was in such crappy shape, I had to strip the entire thing. That included the hot terminals that go through the hanger body. Basically, you have a small plastic grommet (pictured top) that insulates the brass terminal that goes through the hanger body. Then, they seal up the top of the terminal with epoxy. There's no way to remove this stuff so it can be reused, so it has to be replaced with something.



I'll be using nylon hardware as insulators, and some stainless bolts as terminals. Grabbed some small rubber washers to seal everything up.



Drill a hole in the center for the terminals.




Screw the stainless bolt into the center of the nylon bolt and then cut off the bolt head. It's easier to use a bolt and then cut off the head. Threaded rod would be a pain to thread into the nylon without a bolt head.





Thread the nylon bolts into the pump hanger, and install the rubber washers.



Then install the nylon washers to pull them down with the nylon nuts. Put a set of nuts on each side of the terminals. Lastly, install a new ground post and you're good to go.






I still need to install a -6AN fitting for the pump feed. I have a weld in fitting on the way. After I get it installed, I'll paint the body with Rust Bullet and seal it up. I'll throw my Walbro 255 on the hanger and should be good to go. I'm on the fence about whether I want to drop my fuel tank and recondition it. It looked ok, but maybe I should just be preemptive since I already have everything apart. Feedback and criticism is welcome.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/08/14 09:58 PM)

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175775 posted 06/08/14 08:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Genius!



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

Posts: 1579 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (24.60.132.248) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


152/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175777 posted 06/08/14 09:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ugggh i love your car!!!!



138/2000
152/1000

Posts: 3551 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (24.176.249.32) | Report this post to a Moderator

BENE38A
Slanging Kiwi parts


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175810 posted 06/09/14 02:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice mate, great solution to the problem. How do they get so rusty? Spoiler holes leak in water or something



1991 Mitsubishi Galant vr4 RS

Posts: 261 | From: New Zealand | Member Since: 09/02/13 | IP: (122.56.232.110) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175828 posted 06/09/14 09:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Honestly, I'm not sure how the sending units always get so rusty. My fuel tank looks pretty good in comparison. I think the coating that Mitsubishi puts on the hanger body is just shitty, and makes it susceptible to corrosion. The trunk area isn't leaking, it's just that the top of the fuel tank is exposed to the elements just the same as the undercarriage. The pump access cover only seals the trunk from the elements. It doesn't do anything to keep the pump hanger from the outside.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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KiNgMaRtY
Member +++
802/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175829 posted 06/09/14 10:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The JIC's came out great all cleaned up. You will be very pleased with them. I have a set on a 2g GSX in the past that were Muellerized.



92 GVR4 #802 link
06 EvoIX SSL-417HP/418TQ-OEM Turbo E85 / Ohlins DFV
94 MX5 M-Edition - On Xidas
SOLD: 92 GVR4 #611

Posts: 790 | From: Corona, CA | Member Since: 04/08/08 | IP: (98.189.79.130) | Report this post to a Moderator

ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1175851 posted 06/09/14 12:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Dude, nice engineering job on that hanger.

Is the current condition of the tank up to your standards?

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (2602:306:cd73:c1) | Report this post to a Moderator


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