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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1169462 posted 04/28/14 06:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Decided it was time for a few creature comforts. The 20 year old sound system just wasn't cutting it, especially after I installed the new deck. I found out why. Let's just say the OEM speakers have seen better days:



I used to be big into the car audio scene, but over time, I just feel like I lost interest. Back in the day, I'd run new wiring to each component and all the other BS to get the best sound. Nowadays, I hardly feel like soldering on new connections at the speaker terminals. Not to mention, removing 20 year old door panels is probably one of my least favorite things to do of all time. My intent here was to simply get something in the car that sounded decent, without breaking the bank and causing me too much hassle. Typically, I'm a brand whore when it comes to audio equipment, and only buy Alpine stuff. But, I got a really good deal on a new full set of Kicker DS series coaxial components, so I picked them up for the Galant. Never had a set of Kicker speakers, so hopefully they sound good. Anything over the old stuff should be an improvement, though.



Overall, the car is coming along. I have the engine bay clean, and almost prepped for paint. There's just so much cleaning required, which really sucks up time. I'm hoping to have the engine bay painted by next week so I can start dropping the motor back in. I picked up an EVO 8 FMIC to replace the stocker. The idea being that I can retain most of the OEM piping and have something to hold me over until I can pick up a larger core. I also started relocating the battery to the trunk. Running the 2GA wire wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. BIG thanks to James Foster! He hooked me up with his old trunk battery setup for next to nothing, and it's a REALLY nice kit. If you all don't already know, James is an awesome guy, and I appreciate his generosity.

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171323 posted 05/10/14 08:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I finally got around to painting the engine bay. I spent what seemed like forever cleaning grease and shit from every crack and crevice under the hood. I dropped most of the front subframe as well for a good cleaning and paint. It turned out pretty nice. I snapped a few crappy pics with my phone, but they don't do a very good job showing how nice it turned out. A fresh coat of paint really made a night and day difference and I feel much better about dropping the nice clean motor in a spiffy engine bay. Here's the progression:


Engine Bay:







Front Sub-frame:





Brake booster/Strut tower:





Firewall:




Battery location/passenger frame rail:






I also finished relocating the battery to the trunk. I'm just waiting for my cutoff switch to finish up. BIG, BIG, thanks to James Foster, who hooked me up with all the stuff to get this done!



Got all my drivetrain components cleaned and ready to reinstall. I also pressed in a new bearing for the intermediate axle shaft. The old one felt a little too lose.




The car is coming alone nicely, but I'm crossing my fingers to get it done in time for the shootout. I'm still struggling about what to do about an intercooler setup. Sadly, I'm not in a position to drop a bunch of money on a nice ETS setup, which is really what I want. I picked up a Evo 8 core, but it isn't going to work like I want. I'm open to any suggestions on a budget friendly solution that is an improvement over the stocker.

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171339 posted 05/10/14 10:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Damn dude that looks really nice. I admit having a black car makes it a lot easier to keep things from looking super gross over white for sure. How did you paint it exactly? I imagine it would be a pain with all the parts you kept in place.

As for intercooler, I dunno. You looking for just a core or a whole kit? I got my core from here: click I'm pretty happy with the one I got. Although, I have only driven my car about 6 miles since I put it on.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (67.168.143.160) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


152/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171347 posted 05/10/14 11:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
very nice, i like what you have done.



138/2000
152/1000

Posts: 3551 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (24.176.249.32) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171352 posted 05/10/14 11:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you can find a JDM intercooler core, that would be a simple, cheap solution for something better than the USDM core.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171404 posted 05/11/14 05:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the compliments guys. The painting process was pretty straight forward. I started by cleaning everything really well with Simple Green. After I remove all the grease and grime, I sand with 800/1000/2000. Once everything is smooth, I use reducer to prep/clean the surface before painting. I wet down the floor in the garage to minimize the dust and do a quick wipe with a tack cloth right before spraying.

The first coat I did was the Rust Bullet. I use a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun to lay it down. After the Rust Bullet dires, I sand where necessary if needed. After the Rust Bullet, I apply the W09 base coat right on top. I use a Devilbiss GFG-670 Plus for color and clear. I sprayed two coats of color, and 4 coats of clear. I just used some epoxy based spray paint for all the subframe crossmembers.

I pulled everything I could away from the body. I didn't remove the firewall blanket, so everything below the data plate was untouched. Everything that was too much of a pain to remove just got taped off. I was pretty easy to do, it just took forever. Honestly, that's pretty much how I'd sum the whole job up. Easy, and extremely time consuming. Well worth the effort though, IMO. The car looks 110% better than before. It's also a nice feeling knowing the car is completely rust free. All the little problem areas are taken care of at this point.

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

rebelboost
Junior Member
1813/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171672 posted 05/13/14 12:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Beautiful work! I love the white factory color and how clean the engine bay is becoming. I have had alot of people say great things about the engine bay work you done with 1813. Just like you I am still in the market looking to buy a inter-cooler(short route). Good luck!



If its broke, don't fix it... MAKE IT CHROME
New owner of 1813/2000

Posts: 30 | From: Pensacola, Florida | Member Since: 08/03/13 | IP: (72.216.58.245) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172326 posted 05/17/14 06:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Dropped in the motor today. Still lots, of work to do, but it's coming along.






Finished the battery relocation, and got the cutoff switch installed.




The JICs on the car have seen better days. The definitely need some attention, but for the life of me I can't get the adjustment rings on the rear coilovers to loosen up. I don't want to bang on them, or do anything that will damage the rings. They are soft aluminum, and even deform a little when I apply a lot of torque with my spanner wrench. I've soaked them in penetrating oil as well, which didn't do anything. Any ideas on how I can get these apart without destroying them?

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CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172401 posted 05/18/14 07:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The collars on my Hotbits are frozen and I Emailed them about it and they said to just cut them off and buy new ones.



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

Posts: 1579 | From: Manchester, NH | Member Since: 07/17/06 | IP: (24.60.132.248) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172407 posted 05/18/14 09:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's the problem, I don't think I can get new ones. I emailed JIC and they said this coilover is no longer made.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172413 posted 05/18/14 10:33 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Measure the diameter and buy replacements online.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (172.56.39.192) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172437 posted 05/18/14 01:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is that even possible? Who sells a universal coilover adjuster ring? I was under the impression each coilover was built unique.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172444 posted 05/18/14 01:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click

I have seen others around, just have to search or call. You just have to find right diameter and thread pitch



1226/2000


Edited by coyotes (05/18/14 01:35 PM)

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (172.56.39.192) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172452 posted 05/18/14 02:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I measured the OD of the rear damper at 1.915 which according to Google is 48.641mm. That appears to be right in the middle of both rings offered by KSPORT. I don't have a metric thread pitch gauge to check the pitch on the dampers. This fucking sucks.




820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172453 posted 05/18/14 02:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm amazed jic wouldn't have the part. I would call them up and talk to someone. Just because they don't make the coilover anymore shouldn't mean they don't have parts for rebuild or one from another application won't fit. Many companies design a coilover for many applications but use different mounting brackets to make a specific fit to different vehicles.

But the components themselves on the coilover body are the same.



1226/2000


Edited by coyotes (05/18/14 02:24 PM)

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (172.56.39.192) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172476 posted 05/18/14 05:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wonder if you could call Mueller to source some. Or RRE.

The newer JIC's use setscrew locking collars, which I'm not a fan of. But I'm sure those would probably work as well.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11932 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (71.92.106.100) | Report this post to a Moderator

ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172481 posted 05/18/14 07:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^ Great idea. They don't do as much JIC as they used to, but i think that is probably your best bet. They still service them right? Wouldn't surprise me if they have a number of these as i imagine this is somewhat common.

Not surprised JIC USA is not very helpful. I went up there a few months ago and chatted with the owner for quite a while. Here's my take. I don't believe they are actually or have ever been an official part of JIC Japan. From what i can tell they have always been a distributor, and now they are even less affiliated than ever. They have been liquidating everything they have left be it suspension, exhaust, brake pads etc to make room for their own product, and at least as far as coilovers are concerned, they aren't selling JIC Japan's product at all.

If you want OEM JIC replacement parts, maybe send a hail mary off to Japan. Otherwise i would ditto most of the above advice. I bet you can find a replacement ring, but it's going to be a bitch determining which kit has the compatible part. So many coilovers, including some of the big Japanese names, all have a lot of very VERY similar design cues. I suspect many outsource to the same place in Taiwan. So if the Mueller thing doesn't work out, maybe just dig around. I would be surprised if you couldn't find one that works.

Posts: 1944 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (2602:306:cd73:c1) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172496 posted 05/18/14 08:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions. I emailed Mueller, and inquired about a new set. Keeping my fingers crossed! The thing is, the ones I have on the dampers now are fine, I'm just really worried I'm going to destroy them trying to get them apart. I read a few places that the rings get frozen, and can't be removed at all. The aluminum is so damn soft. Every time I try and apply any torque at all with my spanner wrench, the tab just looks like it's ready to crumble. After I get them apart, I'm planning to remove all the corrosion and reassemble them all nice and clean. Also, I'm going to use something to protect them from the elements this time so I'm not doing the BS in another 6 months. You guys using anything like this? click



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (05/18/14 08:14 PM)

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172514 posted 05/19/14 12:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had one that was a bugger to loosen up as well. I used a BFH and a flat blade screwdriver to hammer it off. If a few nice, sharp blows don't move it, yer gonna have cut it off probably.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11932 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (71.92.106.100) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172547 posted 05/19/14 11:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So did you just clamp the shock body in a vise or something?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (05/19/14 11:30 AM)

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172549 posted 05/19/14 11:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Probably while still installed.

I assume you've soaked the he'll out of it in pb blaster or similar? A hammer should bust it loose. If not it may be time for some new coilovers.



1226/2000

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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172562 posted 05/19/14 12:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I don't think i'd let these go. I seem to remember this was essentially the best VR4 specific kit short of the Hotbits. Versus the Teins, these are length adjustable and monotube. Regardless, it is a good kit that can be made into an excellent kit after Mueller gets a hold of them. It would be really awesome to send this kit off to him for a thorough refresh. I understand the financial commitment though. I had the BC's and they are OK for the low entry cost, but i've experienced box stock FLT-A2's on a WRX and the dampening was better. Less rebound oscillation and better dampening at the very top of the stroke!

He mentioned he used penetrating oil a few posts up, and that the soft aluminum collars do not tolerate much force, and to remove them intact will require kids gloves. A hammer may do the trick but will definitely need some finesse on the collar.

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172621 posted 05/19/14 08:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I took Mark's advice, got a BFH and a square piece of aluminum stock and gave one of the collars a good smack. It popped loose right away! I guess I was just being too much of a bitch before, all scared of screwing up the rings. Subsequently, I repeated the process on the others and they followed suit popping lose one after another. I got them all apart without breaking anything, which is awesome. Now, I have to figure out the best way to recondition these. The dampers and components look pretty rough overall, but ironically the locking rings look pretty good. You guys have any advice on how to clean the following:

1. There is corrosion and a bit of surface rust on all of the dampers. I hit a spot briefly with a brass wire wheel, and it seemed to clean up good. The thing is, I think there is a coating on the damper, and the wire wheel seems to remove it. How should I deal with these?

2. All the other parts like the lowers, camber plates and rear eyelets look like complete shit. I wish I had a tumbler large enough to put these in, but I don't. No access to a sand blaster either. Ideas on how to get them looking new?

3. Lastly, once I remove all the crap, what should I refinish these with? Paint? Powder coating?










So, this is how they looked when Anthony picked them up: click

Quoting Blown1:

Up for sale is a mint set of E39a specific JIC-Magic FLTA2. They have about 500 miles on them but they look almost brand new over 2k brand new. Spring rates are 8k/6k or if you prefer 450lbs/in and 335lb/in."The JIC FLT-A2 is the flagship coilover system. All FLT-A2 coilovers are designed on US-spec vehicles for US streets, fitment and performance is unmatched. Included in the kits are pillow ball upper mounts with adjustable camber plates(front only). For flexibility, the dampers have 15-way compression and rebound adjustability. The spring rates are of the linear-rate type with independent ride height adjustable lower brackets. This allows adjustment without compromising damper compression or rebound travel. Based off of racing technology, the FLT-A2 is a street performance suspension, customizable for full time track use" These are the real deal not some ebay junk copies so please no low ballers or I can get this coilover for that price thanks in advance and enjoy. I am asking 1K obo plus paypal and shipping unless you want to come pick them up for the 1k obo? Thanks for looking and please pm if you have any other questions....Thanks
Dunstan.....












The ad says the spring rates are 8k/6k or 450lbs/in and 335lb/in. But the springs say 8k and 7k??? Did the PO just not know what he had? Can someone talk to me about what the typical off the shelf spring rates were? Thanks in advance, guys.


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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172623 posted 05/19/14 08:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow, those are haggard. I'm glad my method worked though. I ran a long ratchet extension through a lower eyelet to keep it from spinning on my garage floor and gave the collar a whack. It wasn't exactly the proper way, but it worked without fucking anything up. I kept cardboard between the floor and damper so as not to scratch them up.

I lightly used a wire brush to clean mine up, but they had zero corrosion. I would do the same to your threaded bodies, but would go at it harder on the lower brackets and eyelets and them paint them black. I'm actually planning to paint my front lower brackets black because Mueller elongated the upper strut mount holes inward to add negative camber and then welded washers on to keep everything solid once bolted up. He had to grind off the cad plating in those spots to weld so I'm just going to paint the whole bracket. It had some paint on there when I received them, but it looked hokey with just the ground off spots lightly sprayed.

Did you see my thread where I took mine all apart? I suggest also removing the front dampers from their threaded bodies to clean and relube them.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1172624 posted 05/19/14 08:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Glad you got it apart dude. I'd hit it all with a wire wheel. The threaded bodies you can hit with some WD40 or similar to keep the corrosion away and keep them from seizing up again. On my daily driven 240sx with KTS coils I'd mist the threaded portion with WD40 once or twice a year, seemed to do the trick. The lower mount and other components I'd clean up and paint or powdercoat.

are you just going to put them on or send the dampers in for rebuild?



1226/2000

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