Another option for bigger brake upgrade.
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boostx
On The Wrong Side.
23/2000
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posted 03/15/12 07:39 AM   
Love the F Letter
Four wheel steering
Four doors
Four cylinders
Force induced
><((((º>
Posts: 4326 | From: Orlando, FL | Member Since: 04/24/03 | IP: (199.101.173.2) | 
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ercp98
perpetual n00b
1148/2000
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posted 09/03/14 08:02 AM
just want to add, for those whose want to go this route. there is a cheaper option for sourcing new outlander caliper brackets. from amazon manufacturer: Febest part # 0477C-CWF price $34.20 free shipping 
Posts: 1338 | From: northlake in illinois | Member Since: 08/05/03 | IP: (174.238.232.160) |
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IncorpoRatedX
I'm an idiot...
501/2000
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posted 09/04/14 01:47 PM
Quoting tektic:
Just to be clear, this uses 1gb dual piston calipers with a bigger rotor and bracket from the outlander? I'm asking I'm not sure.
this uses the stock VR4 calipers (same as 1GB) and yes, outlander rotors, you've got to match them to your stock rotors and redrill them. I bolted my old rotor to the new rotor (one lug hole lines up) then centered up the center bores, clamped them so they wouldnt move and drilled the 4 lug pattern (3 holes) into the new rotors.
It was really easy.
-Joshua Adventure Driven Design
1991 Galant VR-4
1999 Montero "Goldi-Locker"
Posts: 5593 | From: Arizona | Member Since: 05/28/03 | IP: (50.172.32.94) |
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r4pt0x
Member
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posted 09/05/14 09:18 AM
I'm driving this as the "summer brake" on my FWD Galant turbo. Due to the increased size the heat capacity and also the lever arm is bigger, so the brake is much more fading-resistant and has a better "bite" (therefore I mounted the smaller 276mm version for winter to prevent instantly blocking wheels on snow...) The Calipers are basically the same as on Evo 1-3, Evo 4 gravel spec, Sigma and all Outlander up to the newest PHEV models. So calipers are easy to get (used or aftermarket) and not very expensive and also pads are available from all major brands (ferodo, pagid, carbone lorraine...) Only difference throughout all the different models: the brake line is either connected via banjo or core thread, but brake lines are available for both (goodridge). The discs are easily redrilled to 4x114,3mm pin diameter. Either on a post drill or - mostly for a few bucks - by any workshop with a cnc-machine or cnc-lathe. We used to bring ~4-5 sets of discs and a crate of beer and it always worked out 
Posts: 123 | From: Bavaria / Germany | Member Since: 11/20/13 | IP: (188.195.8.207) |
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FlyingEagle 
Eager Beaver
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posted 09/06/14 08:34 PM
Quoting 89Patches:
I did the Outlander "Upgrade" on #19 and I honestly wouldn't recommend doing them (Waste of money IMO) But I maybe a bit bias as I mostly road coarse my car and after about 2 laps at my local track the brakes start to heat soak and by the end of the 3rd lap I have next to no brakes. And no I didn't use cheap pads/ rotors....
When looking at Wilwoods for my Colt (one off custom drilled rotors, spacers, and 4 piston calipers), the drop in pads setups gave something like 6 temp ranges.
Your pads likely do not have the needed temp range for what you were using or were outside the useage range, that your rotors were able maintain a heat sink for.
Not bashing, just stating that the Outlander rotors and most pads sets made for it, unless custom (READ heavy metal content with additives to match high temps) and essentially rotor killing style due to excessive wear, it's simply more swept area per rotor revolution that a you will get.
For the street, with an upgrade cold grip and or similar cold friction and elevated friction at higher temps, you will gain something from that setup; as you stated, this will only take you to a point. Everything overheats because not racecar, and not designed for racecar, yet.
We have to remember that these setups are for the street, not the tracks.
Setting aside the street, track setups use higher temp (super expensive fluids), larger rotors/swept area per revolution, rotor killing pads (mostly), and likely more piston area per corner with appropriate squeeze force, ducting, drivers who don't over run the brakes and understand their limits.
GVR4's using stock components can only go so far, as will using the Outlander parts. The Outlander parts do give an increase in efficiency, so a minor win for a decent price.
Did I mention that 2005ish Outlander struts, look very similar to what the GVR4/DSM/EVO/CSM use?
That's another story .... sitting on my garage floor.
C53A 1 of the ~1500
Posts: 1631 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.239.218.151) |
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AllanL
Heal and Toe
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posted 09/09/14 03:31 AM
Quoting r4pt0x:
The rotors for Evo 4 (gravel spec) and Outlander will fit - they have the same offset as the Stock E30 or 267mm (evo 3) disks...
The disks for Evo 4 are vented from inside, so they get the better cooling; but are ~1.5 times the price of the outlander ones.)
got OE part numbers for theose Evo 4 gravel spec rotors?
Gravel spec are the RS Evo 4's that were non-Brembo?
Posts: 273 | From: NV | Member Since: 08/05/08 | IP: (122.3.68.162) |
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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000
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posted 09/10/14 03:09 PM
Quoting strokin4dr:
I've read everything I could find on the ctsv calipers. AFAIK, no one has completed the swap....or at least completed it and posted about it. The mounting tabs are correctly spaced, and they are cheap. Seems like the offset of the caliper was strange though. I guess rotors with custom hats would be the best solution. 
I think this guy completed the CTS-V brake install...
click
92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster
Posts: 3537 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (50.47.87.168) |
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