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whiteline/superpro bushings for rear subframe


Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 377734 posted 09/02/06 03:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey guys,

I am running into some problems trying to figure out which bushings is supposed to go in the rear subframe. Here is the link to all the part numbers:

http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=283776&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

The parts that I have:

SPF 1439K $45 Rear Hub, Front Bushing of Lower Rear Trailing Arm
SPF 2031K $50 Upper Rear Control Arm Inner Bushing
KCA365 $60 Rear Control Arm Upper Bushing (Camber Adjustable)
SPF 1438K $40 Rear Lower Inner Control Arm Bushing

I have circled 3 places on the subframe that I know needs to be replaced. But I have no idea where the 4th bushing kit is supposed to be at.



I have the KCA365 in the right place with the help of looking at this thread:
http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB11&Number=133449&page=5&fpart=1

I'd like help to know which one goes in which. Just let me know what part number goes on the colored circles.

Thanks!

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378037 posted 09/03/06 06:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
anybody???

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NZVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378072 posted 09/03/06 08:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
so out of this:
SPF 1439K $45 Rear Hub, Front Bushing of Lower Rear Trailing Arm
SPF 2031K $50 Upper Rear Control Arm Inner Bushing
KCA365 $60 Rear Control Arm Upper Bushing (Camber Adjustable)
SPF 1438K $40 Rear Lower Inner Control Arm Bushing <---- this one here is the one you dont know where it goes?

i have a feeling you may have some around the wrong way. Judging by the names of the bushes...

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378125 posted 09/03/06 11:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, I am trying to see if anyone can clarify this by naming the parts for each colored circles to make it easier and helpful for me and anyone else.

I do know I have the KCA365 in the right place.

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KT
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378189 posted 09/04/06 07:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yellow circle = lower control arm SPF 1438K
Blue circle = upper control arm SPF 2031K or KCA365 (one is adjustable, one is not)
Red circle = trailing arm SPF 1439K



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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378236 posted 09/04/06 09:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
"Blue circle = upper control arm SPF 2031K or KCA365 (one is adjustable, one is not)"

For that one, I did put both of the bushing kits in and they are pretty identical. Look at the pictures.





It seems like both of those bushing kits are adjustable.

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378237 posted 09/04/06 09:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Yellow circle = lower control arm SPF 1438K
Red circle = trailing arm SPF 1439K




By the way, what did you do and use to install those two? I am thinking I might have to use hydraulic press or bench vise.

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KT
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378246 posted 09/04/06 10:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


I used these for the upper rear and avoided the bushing issue all together.



2016 Wrangler JKU
2012 VW Jetta TDI
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1999 LS7 C5
1988 Conquest TSi

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378254 posted 09/04/06 11:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
looks nice

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378259 posted 09/04/06 11:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I am wondering if I have to cut the metal bushing on the outside of the rubber bushings that I have already taken out. The metal bushings thats still on the hub control arm and the lower control arm.

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turbogalant
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378363 posted 09/04/06 08:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
When I put the ES rear bushings on my Galant I got them pressed out. When I did the rear bushings on my Daytona I burned them out with a propane torch. So I can't tell you how well it works on the Galant bushings, but because of how well it worked on my Daytona I would recommend just burning them out with a torch. Just heat the bushing "shell" with the torch it will start bubbling and eventually melt enough that the bushing just falls out. It is quite messy with the rubber melting on the ground, so have something under it that you can just throw away, and I think it smelled bad too, I did mine in the garage, so it couldn't have been too bad, just like you did a really big burnout. Because you are melting the rubber the inside of the shell comes out really clean.

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378371 posted 09/04/06 08:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have already burned all the old bushings out. I am just trying to get them in. I am wondering if I have to get those metal sleeves pressed out?

Believe me, burning the rubber bushings out was a huge mess

I might just take it to machine shop or something to have them press them in because I am having hard time with it.

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turbogalant
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378374 posted 09/04/06 08:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You're not supposed to take out the shells.

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378408 posted 09/04/06 09:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was wondering about that. I have seen it is required for other cars. I even looked at the vfaq.com: http://vfaq.com/mods/bushings.html Its in the bottom of the link. I am not sure what he meant for the tip in the bottom.

"Tips: Important All three of these bushings have thin walled metal sleeves. They need to be pressed out and discarded. I've heard stories of drilling the rubber, then hack-sawing the sleeves etc. I tried removed one trailing arm bushing in this fashion (got center out, but couldn't get the sleeve out). An automotive machine shop should have a press. My place charged me $60 for all 6 bushings. Other places quoted me significantly more, or wouldn't quote at all. Once the stockers are out, the new ones push in with a bit of muscle."

Let me know.

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lunchbox
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378423 posted 09/04/06 10:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes you are supposed to take out the sleves, at least with the Energy Suspension bushings.

I cut them with a torch or plasma cutter very carefully. You can also use a hacksaw, but that sucks.

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378424 posted 09/04/06 10:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thats why I am asking you guys if anyone had done it with super pro or whiteline bushings. I am not sure if they are same deal as energy suspension bushings.

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kcpaz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378436 posted 09/04/06 10:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:



I used these for the upper rear and avoided the bushing issue all together.




Is that something you made, or is that something you can buy???



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turbogalant
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378442 posted 09/04/06 10:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh alright, you are trying to pull out the little metal sleeve around the bushing. I thought you were trying to take out the whole shell, meaning the whole part where the sleeve and bushing goes into. I don't know if you saw this thread, but it might be a little useful.

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378450 posted 09/04/06 11:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well, that link you just put on your post is also on my very first post on this thread

That thread was only for one of those bushings. That is the only bushing I was able to get it on without any difficulty. As for the others, I can't get it on. I was looking at other sites like http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=1054

I thought I would need to cut those sleeves off? I wasn't sure.

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KT
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 378816 posted 09/05/06 07:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Quote:

[url=http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=36742][/url]

I used these for the upper rear and avoided the bushing issue all together.




Is that something you made, or is that something you can buy???




I bought these from 3SX Performance [url=http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1454]3SX TT Camber Arms[/url] , but they can also be made: [url=http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=350382&Forum=All_Forums&Words="control%20arm"&Searchpage=0&Limit=99&Main=350072&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post350382]grocery getter[/url] and [url=http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=350382&Forum=All_Forums&Words="control%20arm"&Searchpage=0&Limit=99&Main=350072&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post350382]SGTdave[/url]

Instead of using that metal tab to "delete" the subframe camber adjust, I had two grade 8 washers welded in place. I plan on doing the same for the active toe elim kit.



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SGTdave
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 379045 posted 09/06/06 10:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Quote:



I used these for the upper rear and avoided the bushing issue all together.




Is that something you made, or is that something you can buy???




those arms are exsactly like the ones I made.

Check the "how too" forums and search for my name or Ebay control arms

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KT
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 379221 posted 09/06/06 05:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ya, I tried hyperlinking your How To, but it didn't work. I had already purchased mine by the time that thread came to be. My loss I suppose.



2016 Wrangler JKU
2012 VW Jetta TDI
2002 F-250 PSD
1999 LS7 C5
1988 Conquest TSi

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Boostn
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 379223 posted 09/06/06 05:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had machine shop to press them in for me. They told me they had to press out the metal sleeves in order to get the bushings in.

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G Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 668834 posted 07/14/08 12:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click

Quoting kcpaz:

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr />


I used these for the upper rear and avoided the bushing issue all together.




Is that something you made, or is that something you can buy???





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CutlassJim
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 668891 posted 07/14/08 08:13 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I never knew the 3/S rear suspension looked so similar to a GVR4.

Those rear arms are a copy of the arms that SGTDave made a few years ago. They can be made for $100 and a trip to AFCO's website.

Here they are on #797





EDIT: Whoops didn't see SGTDave already posted this info.



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Edited by CutlassJim (07/14/08 08:15 AM)

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