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Re: help doing engine swap in my '92 eagle 2000 GTX ('92 Galant)


Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 808809 posted 07/07/09 11:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ok, so here's the rad.
and a realy newb question. since it doesnt have a rad cap, how do i get the coolant in?


and here are some of the wiring questions.
what is that big round thing in the middle of the pic, and why does the wiring harness i bought, not have a connection for it? the wire thats in there right now, is the one that was hacked off the old harness.
how would i even splice that in when entire section of wire does not exist on my wiring harness?


if you guys could please help and explain, that would be awesome.
thanks guys.

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
Scores a 10


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 808819 posted 07/08/09 12:33 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey Woosky,

The radiator looks like one from a DSM (Talon, Eclipse, Laser). The DSMs had the filling cap on the top half of the thermostat housing instead of the radiator itself. See the below picture:


According to a few threads on the board, you will need the DSM "waterneck", which is the top half of the t-stat housing with the cap. Evidently it will bolt up in place of the one without the rad cap. Did the person you bought it from tell you this was from a 1g/DSM? They should have if they didn't. One other thing about using DSM radiators is that they are slightly shorter that the stock radiator, which means that you'll have to figure out a way to interface it with the stock Rad. mounts. I think someone used screws in the top 2 pegs to extend up to the top mounts. Another member's input would be nice here . I would post up a WTB for the housing piece, as the TELs are not rare.

The big round thing in the center of your picture is the Camshaft/Crankshaft Angle (position) Sensor (CAS). It tells the ECU where the engine is "at" as it rotates, and is very important. The ECU uses this when pulsing the injectors and igniting the spark plugs.

Two types of CAS exist (for this purpose at least): the 1990 type, and the 1991-and-later type. Depending on the model year of the wiring harness you bought, the CAS harness connector will have one of two plug types.

If the harness is a 1990 year harness (I suspect yours is), the CAS harness plug will look like this:

The 1990 CAS has wires coming out of it to connect with the harness:


If the wiring harness is a 1991-and-later harness, the CAS harness plug looks like this:

The 1991 CAS has a connector built into it, instead of wires running from it to a connector.

You probably have a 1990 wiring harness, and a 1991-and-later CAS(the one in your picture is). If this is the case, you will need to splice the new wiring harness. One good thing about your car being a 1992 model (and you've discovered this already, according to your picture) is that your old SOHC wiring harness will have a matching CAS connector (the 1991-and-later type). Cut the connector from the old wiring harness with a few extra inches of wire, and you can splice it up to the new wiring harness by finding the 1990 style plug (it's there somewhere hopefully!), and going at it with some solder and electrical tape. I believe the colors match, but I will double-check this. EDIT: According to the circuit diagrams, the wire colors match:

This will make splicing the new harness sensor connector very easy. Post up your questions, and good luck !


Edited by cspetros (07/08/09 09:46 AM)

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 809192 posted 07/09/09 12:32 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
thank you sooo much for that info!
i have now, already made a purchase on the waterneck, so that should be here sometime next week.
now i found that the fan i had before wont fit, so i need to get one that will fit onto this rad.

there are a couple candidates that i have found so far, but i will also put out a WTB.

heres a dumb question....where are the wires to hook up the starter, and what do they look like.
i have no idea where they are, and where they should plug in on the harness.

oh, and the wires for the cam angle sensor are color coded on the new harness that i have, but not on the hacked out peice that i got off the engine. so ill have to go by number position. shouldnt be too hard. its only 4 wires after all. ill just tape, and number them off.

well, thats it for now i beleive.
more updates tomorrow.



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
Scores a 10


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 809466 posted 07/09/09 09:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey,

There are 3 wires that are involved with the starter:


-->One is the HOT wire (Black with red stripe, connected to the + side of the battery, and connects to the bolt/nut on the starter itself (see picture).

-->The solenoid control wire (small, black with yellow stripe, with a plastic connector, connects to the starter itself, right beside where the hot wire goes).

-->The ground wire (large, black with yellow stripe, slides over topmost starter mounting bolt that goes through the transmission bell housing). This is how the starter grounds. (You can barely see this wire on the leftmost side of the picture. The portion on the lower right of the pic connects to a chassis ground next to the battery)

The portion of the wiring harness with the starter wires comes from the battery side of the engine bay. If you look for the two large hot and ground wires you can't miss it.

Be SURE to disconnect the battery while you're messing with the starter wires. If that hot wire contacts any part of the engine or frame while the battery is connected, it will cause a massive short circuit.

There are a few other connectors lurking around the engine bay. There are 2 connectors under the intake air-can. If they aren't connected, the car will refuse to start .

BTW, I mean positive wire when I say HOT wire. It's a habit that I need to break .

When splicing that CAS connector, just look close at those diagrams I posted, and you'll be fine. Just note that the wire numbers are different between the two (see the last pic). Glad to help .


Edited by cspetros (07/09/09 09:22 PM)

Posts: 512 | From: Port Norfolk, VA | Member Since: 07/19/08 | IP: (96.235.87.120) | Report this post to a Moderator

Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 809520 posted 07/10/09 01:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
thanks for the info.
the funny part is that by the time i got to reading this, i found the wire, and connected it too. exactly as you had described. it was wraped up and around where the battery usualy goes. i guess i put it there a while ago to keep it out of the way. lol
and as for the CAS, you were right. they were color coded, before i was just looking at the wrong connector. there was another one on the harness right beside it that had the same connector, but different colored wires.
the numbers actualy didnt match up, but then i found that there were different thicknesses to the wires, and then also the colors corresponded. so thats all done, and spliced back together, and plugged in.

so i actualy tried starting my car today...... it turns over fine but it would never start.
and i found what i beleive to be the source of the problem.
my clutch peddal feels realy loose.
i have no hydrolic fluid to press in the clutch and release the preasure!

thats the first thing i am buying tomorrow!

i beleive that when that gets filled up, the car should be able to run!
oh the anticipation is killing me

ill let you guys know what happens!



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 809775 posted 07/10/09 08:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
this is the wiring job i did yesterday for the CAS


well, the clutch now releases, and still nothing.

this is what the engine bay looks like now.


it seems my spark plugs arent firing.


there is power in the harness, but i have yet to check the coil.
it looks like its just not getting thru.


any suggestions?
what should i be checking for, and if the need arrises, will i have to get a new ignition coil thing?



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
Scores a 10


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 809898 posted 07/11/09 10:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How about fuel getting into the cylinders? Do they smell like gas? If it's a no spark, no fuel situation, then it's not the coil.

One thing I'm curious about: when you bought the wiring harness, did it come with the MFI Relay for the DOHC engine? The relay is different between the SOHC and DOHC engines. The SOHC version only has 8 pins, while the DOHC version has 10 (meaning that unless you have a DOHC relay, then your new wiring harness is not plugged into the SOHC relay ). The relay is located up under the dash on the passenger side of the car. The relay supplies power to the ECU, and a bunch of other critical components. When you turn the key to start the car, the relay should make a "click" noise. Also, does the check engine light turn on for 5 seconds when you turn the key to the ON position? If not, this is another sign that the ECU isn't powering up. No ECU = no spark, no fuel. The best way to approach this problem is by testing and eliminating . Keep us posted.

Here are the diagrams for each:
SOHC---------------------------------------------------------DOHC

Sorry about the squished looking image.


Edited by cspetros (07/17/09 11:33 PM)

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810056 posted 07/11/09 09:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
chris, you are a genious! every time you are bang on.

its not pluged into the MFI relay because the pins are different.

so i just need to buy a MFI relay for a DOHC engine!


thank you sooooo much!



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
Scores a 10


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810103 posted 07/11/09 11:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No problem . I'm no genius. I just read the service manual a lot . I hope that someone responds to your WTB for that relay. It should be a relatively common item, with all the partouts going on lately.



-->2001 Montero Sport

-->2015 Mazda 3 Hatch


Edited by cspetros (07/12/09 12:50 AM)

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810334 posted 07/12/09 11:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
well, i got a couple hits, still waiting on some solid results.
also looking on some solid results for the rad fan too.

all i got done today was drilling out a few of the bolts, and replacing them. nothing to special.
im expecting the waterneck sometime this week tho.

ill keep you guys posted as i find the parts, adn as they come in.



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810341 posted 07/13/09 12:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This thread is reaching epic proportion. Six pages long, and 1500 views.

Posts: 512 | From: Port Norfolk, VA | Member Since: 07/19/08 | IP: (96.235.87.120) | Report this post to a Moderator

Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810660 posted 07/13/09 11:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
just a question, will an MFI relay from a '90 turbo work on my '92 n/t?

is it just that it has to be a 10 pin?, or is it even more engine specific?

thanks.

ive got a bunch of hits, but nobody is giving me a solid YES and a price.
this is important guys! i want this asap! i will even pay the overnight shipping!
you can understand my frustration, because i beleive this is the only thing standing in the may of my engine roaring to life! all this waiting is killing me!



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810668 posted 07/14/09 12:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
As in a '90 DSM Turbo ?.

They are one and the same, according to the circuit diagrams:

TEL DOHC Turbo "MPI" Relay

(Image taken from the TEL service manual, which looks VERY similar to the Galant manual)
Galant DOHC n/t MFI Relay


Patience, grasshopper .


Edited by cspetros (07/14/09 12:30 AM)

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810674 posted 07/14/09 12:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
yes, as in a '90 DSM Turbo.

thanks for the info. i might just have one from mmc gsx.

ill probably know by tomorrow morning.



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 810741 posted 07/14/09 11:13 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
so i made the purchase!

$30 (CND) shipped in 2 days!

cant wait!



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 811370 posted 07/16/09 02:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
i just got the waterneck, and i already installed it.
installed the new rad, and somehow managed the fan installed without hacking it.
i put it in sideways... its kinda hard to explain, ill get some pics eventualy.

all i have left is like 10 more bolts, and now im just waiting on the MFI relay. it should be here friday.
cant wait!



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

1990ggsxnj
Member ++
1578/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 811382 posted 07/16/09 05:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
*Drumrolls*



"Is that Spool Drool? EWW!"
90GGSX Blue-Chesapeake
91GVR4 Nile Black-Sidney (Sid)

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cspetros
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 811391 posted 07/16/09 07:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You mean you used the stock fan and put it in sideways? Definitely interested in seeing that.

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 811452 posted 07/16/09 11:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
yeah i put the stock fan in sideways. its i realy tight fit tho, cuz its a little higher off from where it would normaly be.
i put in four bolts in along the bottom of the rad, and i have the fan resting sideways on those bolts, and all the bolts are tightened while pinching the plastic of the fan. then i found a small strip of metal that was just long enough to put a bolt thru a mounting point on the top of the rad, and then a bolt and nut to hold onto the stock mount on the fan. its sturdy, but its just a temporary solution. well see how long it stays.



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 811679 posted 07/17/09 12:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
so this is how i mounted the fan.
the four bolts pinching it to the bottom.


and the custom bracket up top.


everything in the engine bay is done.


oh, and i shaved the eagle badge.


so now, everything is done, save for the MFI relay which should arrive in about 12 hours.
I CANT WAIT!!!



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 811980 posted 07/17/09 07:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
IT RUNS!!!!

i installed the MFI relay that came in today,

AND IT RUNS!!!!

sure its a little bumpy, and the idle seems off, my timing belt needs to be centered and probably tightened, and my odometer doesnt seem to be working,

BUT IT RUNS!!!!
IM SOOOOOOOOO HAPPY!!!





so if you could help me out with the few final tweaks, THAT WOULD BE AWESOME!
especialy you, Chris. Honestly you have been the biggest help with this entire build, and i am grateful.
and not that the rest of you guys didnt help, because you did, so i want to thank you all.
i see the light at the end of this tunnle.

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 812003 posted 07/17/09 08:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Rock awesome! I'm glad to have had a small part in the resurrection. You're totally welcome

The most important thing on your list is the timing belt. The idle and the tachometer are easy fixes.

If the belt seems loose, the timing belt eccentric tensioner pulley may not be adjusted just right. I wouldn't go out and ride it around just yet (I know you're probably wanting to do this; I would too ). You might wind up crushing a few valves if the belt slips a few teeth, and then the whole scene would go to hell in a handbasket.

The best source for fine tuning the timing belt is the VFAQ Timing Belt pages: Timing Belt, yo! and here also: Timing belt index. Getting the belt tension just right is finicky for first timers (Believe me, I know ). But, after you get it right, it's definitely a good feeling.

Your tachometer is not working because it's a SOHC tachometer... give me a second and I'll have the diagrams up.

The idle can be adjusted using the BISS screw.


Edited by cspetros (07/17/09 09:17 PM)

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Woosky117
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 812008 posted 07/17/09 09:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
whats a BISS screw? and where is it?



Long live the Grandaddy of the EVO!

Posts: 192 | From: Lacombe, Alberta | Member Since: 04/28/09 | IP: (99.252.9.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 812015 posted 07/17/09 09:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The BISS (Base Idle Set Screw) is located on the intake manifold. See this page: Setting the BISS The only difference here is that the ignition timing plug they're referring to for you to ground is up on the firewall on Galant's/2000GTX's (the article is for DSMs). Ground is anywhere on the metal frame of the car (you prolly knew this ).

Getting your tach (did you mean the Tachometer? You said Odometer originally) to work will require some more splicing on your harness. By now, I guess you're getting pretty good at it . On to the post about that...


Edited by cspetros (07/17/09 09:16 PM)

Posts: 512 | From: Port Norfolk, VA | Member Since: 07/19/08 | IP: (96.235.87.120) | Report this post to a Moderator

cspetros
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 812021 posted 07/17/09 09:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Ok. For your tachometer. This may be a bit difficult to follow... Keep in mind that the SOHC tachometers read up to only 8000RPM, while the DOHC tachs read up to 9000RPM. I think this might mean that your tach reading will be off a bit...

The 1992 SOHC engine's tach got it's signal from it's 3-pin ignition power transistor. The DOHC engines get the signal from a 4-pin ignition power transistor. If you follow the white-with-black-stripe wire from the ignition power transistor, eventually you should reach a small connector, (called B-06, according to the manual) with a solid WHITE wire that branches off, and goes to the connector on the back of the tachometer/gauge panel in the dash. It is located on the wiring harness portion behind the intake manifold. If this connector isn't connected, the tach will not get a signal, but the ECU will:


Does the new wiring harness have any cut wires on it on the portion up under the dash? I ask this because it seems that the B-06 connector follows straight to the tach/gauge panel connector. One would either have to separate the entire wire, or cut it at some point.

The manual is somewhat self-contradictory on this subject, because some wiring diagrams (those in the Meters & Gauges section) show the wire coming directly from the ECU wire (totally leaving out the B-06 connector). It also has a typo on the connector number one one diagram.

One solution to this wire tracing would be to neatly run your own wire from the ignition transistor TAC pin (#4) to the tach connector behind the gauges.


Edited by cspetros (07/17/09 11:11 PM)

Posts: 512 | From: Port Norfolk, VA | Member Since: 07/19/08 | IP: (96.235.87.120) | Report this post to a Moderator


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