GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » Newbies » Would you use these?
Previous thread Next thread

Would you use these?


tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229423 posted 06/20/16 04:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Need more brake rotor, so... outlander upgrade. Got the brackets coming. Now I just need pads and rotors. Do these fit the bill, or will I be sorry I ordered them?
click


Edited by tektic (06/20/16 04:19 PM)

Posts: 1499 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (68.192.26.50) | Report this post to a Moderator

dime2nr
Member ++
905/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229424 posted 06/20/16 04:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Whats your use situation?

Posts: 641 | From: Portland OR | Member Since: 09/01/04 | IP: (66.87.113.12) | Report this post to a Moderator

kumfasa
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229429 posted 06/20/16 05:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Im not sure what you are using the car for but I have found that PAD selection is the single most important thing for performance braking. Quickly followed by FLUID.

I have used various ceramic (Akebono) pads in my DD's and find that I can still induce PAD fade when pushing it a little.

The setup on my VR4 is stock rotors, stainless lines, AP Racing R2 Fluid and Pagid RS4-2 pads. (I have the 2 pot calipers and 276mm rotors as it is an Evo 0 VR4)

I have never had a car that stops as well as this does now.
It's all in the pads.
Any fresh fluid works well until you get on a track and stock rotors are everything you'll ever need with no risk of cracking through the cross drilled holes.

Just my experience. Those rotors are probably fine but you may find the pads let you down if your going to be racing, auto-crossing or even very spirited mountain driving.

Posts: 125 | From: Tauranga, New Zealand | Member Since: 02/28/15 | IP: (219.89.194.82) | Report this post to a Moderator

tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229435 posted 06/20/16 11:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have 2 pot calipers from a 2g and cross drilled slotted rotors stock size. 276mm maybe? SS lines and Lucas synthetic break fluid. About 3k miles on the whole setup. The clamping force is there but I feel like the rotors over heat too quickly. I live in NY the land of every second of the day traffic and untimmed stop lights. After the 3 traffic light and 3rd 80 to 0 stop my doesn't stop as effective and even starts to shutter. It may be my pads. I don't remember what's in there.

Posts: 1499 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (47.20.56.49) | Report this post to a Moderator

kumfasa
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229449 posted 06/21/16 02:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds like a good setup and very similar to my own. The only unknown is the pads.

"It feels like the rotors overheat too quickly"

Im pretty sure rotors cant "overheat" or all those pictures of race cars with glowing rotors would spell big trouble. When you feel brake shudder it can come about a few ways.
1/ Different areas of the rotor coll at different rates. Stopping form 120MPH to 0 and then sitting with the brake pedal on at a stop is a good way to do this.
2/ Pad deposits form on the rotors in some spots and not others. Car sitting for a while with rust on the rotors and not under the pads. then when they get used there are high and low spots.
3/ Rotor runout is out of spec. When the rotors are mounted the hub to rotor mounting surface had crap or rust on it. (or worn wheel bearings)
4/ The rotor develops hard areas of the steel through age and repeated heating cooling, etc... these then wear differently.

Sounds like your changing your whole breaking setup for the outlander stuff so we will never know which individual component was giving you trouble.

My only advice for the new setup is to make sure the hub to rotor area is spotless and once you mount the rotors use some big washers and the wheel nuts on and torque them, without the wheels. then setup a dial indicator against the surface of the rotor ( i mounted mine on the strut tower) and spin it slowly to measure the runout. Shouldn't be more than 1-2 thou. If it is more than that mark the high spot and the low spot and then remove the rotor and rotate it so the high spot is opposite its original location. this should reduce you runout and get it as good as you can. (You will find this very tricky with slotted and cross drilled as the dial indicator tip will get snagged up on the grooves, but im sure you'll figure it out.

This is the best way to maximise your breaking performance and feel, most people just slap the rotors on and it works fine but when Im hitting the brake pedal at speeds over 120mph I want it to be solid and predictable with no shudder or fade.

Posts: 125 | From: Tauranga, New Zealand | Member Since: 02/28/15 | IP: (58.28.212.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229479 posted 06/21/16 03:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Drilled rotors from an ebay seller? Not a great idea.
Been there, done that. As have many others. I've cracked cheap rotors in a season. I've seen 3/s cars crack cheap rotors within a year. Hell, even 1051 cracked a wilwood rotor that was drilled. Slotted is the way to go, or at most slotted and dimpled.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

Posts: 3537 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (50.47.86.77) | Report this post to a Moderator

mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229480 posted 06/21/16 03:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting tektic:

I have 2 pot calipers from a 2g and cross drilled slotted rotors stock size. 276mm maybe? SS lines and Lucas synthetic break fluid. About 3k miles on the whole setup. The clamping force is there but I feel like the rotors over heat too quickly. I live in NY the land of every second of the day traffic and untimmed stop lights. After the 3 traffic light and 3rd 80 to 0 stop my doesn't stop as effective and even starts to shutter. It may be my pads. I don't remember what's in there.




Why would you install 2 pot calipers from a "2g"? The gvr4 already comes with the same 2 piston calipers that they put in the 2g.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

Posts: 3537 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (50.47.86.77) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229485 posted 06/21/16 03:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting mitsuturbo:

Why would you install 2 pot calipers from a "2g"? The gvr4 already comes with the same 2 piston calipers that they put in the 2g.




He has a GGSX. It didn't come with 2 piston front calipers. Most of the 1Gs had the same single piston front calipers as well, except for some of the 93+ AWD DSMs. Those cars use the same dual piston caliper as the GVR4s.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/21/16 03:51 PM)

Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229487 posted 06/21/16 03:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh. I had no way of knowing this was for a GGSX. No mention of it in sig or title.
I'm aware of which DSMs got the 2 piston treatment, however.

I still wouldn't run drilled rotors, regardless. Although, one of my cars came with drilled brembo brand rotors that did last a few years. I was surprised how well they held up, considering what i've seen happen with the no-name ones.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

Posts: 3537 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (50.47.86.77) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229488 posted 06/21/16 04:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've had good luck with drilled rotors, but they were Brembo rotors as well. Also, I just drove the car, no track days or anything like that. I assume like Anthony said, the cheap ones wouldn't hold up nearly as well, even under typical driving conditions.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3436 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229494 posted 06/21/16 07:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I ordered the 2g calipers by accident and just installed them.

So I shouldn't expect any improvement from upgrading to a larger rotor? I really thought that would cure my fade issue and shutter issue. Oh well.

I'll look in to new better pads then. What's worth checking out?

Posts: 1499 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (68.192.26.50) | Report this post to a Moderator

jrtech
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229496 posted 06/21/16 07:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting kumfasa:

Sounds like a good setup and very similar to my own. The only unknown is the pads.

"It feels like the rotors overheat too quickly"

Im pretty sure rotors cant "overheat" or all those pictures of race cars with glowing rotors would spell big trouble. When you feel brake shudder it can come about a few ways.
1/ Different areas of the rotor coll at different rates. Stopping form 120MPH to 0 and then sitting with the brake pedal on at a stop is a good way to do this.
2/ Pad deposits form on the rotors in some spots and not others. Car sitting for a while with rust on the rotors and not under the pads. then when they get used there are high and low spots.
3/ Rotor runout is out of spec. When the rotors are mounted the hub to rotor mounting surface had crap or rust on it. (or worn wheel bearings)
4/ The rotor develops hard areas of the steel through age and repeated heating cooling, etc... these then wear differently.

Sounds like your changing your whole breaking setup for the outlander stuff so we will never know which individual component was giving you trouble.

My only advice for the new setup is to make sure the hub to rotor area is spotless and once you mount the rotors use some big washers and the wheel nuts on and torque them, without the wheels. then setup a dial indicator against the surface of the rotor ( i mounted mine on the strut tower) and spin it slowly to measure the runout. Shouldn't be more than 1-2 thou. If it is more than that mark the high spot and the low spot and then remove the rotor and rotate it so the high spot is opposite its original location. this should reduce you runout and get it as good as you can. (You will find this very tricky with slotted and cross drilled as the dial indicator tip will get snagged up on the grooves, but im sure you'll figure it out.

This is the best way to maximise your breaking performance and feel, most people just slap the rotors on and it works fine but when Im hitting the brake pedal at speeds over 120mph I want it to be solid and predictable with no shudder or fade.




^ I have nothing further to add. I am riding this guy's coattails.

Any tech will tell you anecdotally, cheap cross-drilled crap cracks. Saw it frequently on regular commuter cars. Personally I have slotted on the front with Hawk HPS pads, but they don't ever see enough heat to see fading. The rear is cheapest econocrap from R0ckaut0. The fade issue is a simple matter of going to Home Depot Racing and drop kicking out the foglights so you can route plastic, flammable, low quality, hose to the rotor hat. Or more simply changing pad compounds.



How GVR4 people enjoy their cars? Same as you, ya dingus, first we turn the key, then we get the jack stands...

Posts: 80 | From: Mexico Toucher | Member Since: 02/18/12 | IP: (67.1.180.212) | Report this post to a Moderator

kumfasa
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229506 posted 06/21/16 09:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
This is one of the best explanation of braking systems and how to make them perform. This is a company in NZ and is where I purchased my pads from. I cant say enough about the PAGID RS4-2 (Blue) pads. They are exceptional.

www.racebrakes.co.nz

Posts: 125 | From: Tauranga, New Zealand | Member Since: 02/28/15 | IP: (219.89.194.82) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 30 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  Hertz, curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 2506

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.104 seconds in which 0.057 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.


Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page