The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

New owner of 161/1000

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
After a ten-plus year hiatus from building cars, I finally got the itch again. I've owned an Eclipse and a Talon previously, but this is my first Galant and I'm admittedly pretty excited about bringing this car back to some of it's original glory. I completely blame this entire fiasco on my best friend, Bourbon, and Tom's turbo garage (in that order) all of which is ok. It was important to me to find one without rust because like to many other people I wasn't really interested in going down that road so I could focus on other aspects of the car. My apologies for being short in this post, I really wanted to come up with some great post and introduce the story of the car but that's just not me.

Bringing her home from Virginia to Chicago.


The car had been sitting for a few months and it showed even on the interior. With it being pretty cold the last few days, the exterior hasn't been touched but I spend several hours on the inside. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif




The rear brake hardline allegedly took a dive and the car has zero brake pressure, with what looks to be a seized caliper. Swapping in some new calipers and rotors shouldn't be a big deal, but does anyone have any advice on replacing the hardline? From what I can tell it is going to be a real pain and time consuming and I haven't been under a Mitsubishi in a decade, hopefully I'm wrong.


This forum is an awesome source of information and inspiration and I thank all of you for that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif Hopefully I'll have more updates soon and remember to take pictures along the way.
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
So it would seem. I never saw it on Craigslist, just here. Everything I found on CL was beat to death or rusted out.

Not going to lie, I've read your build thread on the white car about 3 times.... very impressive stuff.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
Quoting Yohler:
Not going to lie, I've read your build thread on the white car about 3 times.... very impressive stuff.



Thanks, I appreciate that. Which white car are you referring to, I have two...

A lot of what I have done to my cars was influenced or even copied from other clean builds here. And, a lot the information needed to do those things was found here on the forums as well. You'll find there are quite a few high quality builds here. Here are a few others I'd recommend reading through:

Slugg's 461
mitsuturbo's 555
Both of Gizmo's rides are sweet
James Foster's 674
Wop's 1051
EMX5636's 108

Reading through those will leave you with hopes and desires that lead up to being broke, and on some days, broken.

For parts, Pot and Juan are your guys. If they don't have it, JNZ Tuning would probably your next stop.

If you have any questions, just ask. I'd say document all the stuff you do, because if you do this for any length of time you'll forget it. Also, you can fill out your profile with 161/1000 and it will display below your screen name.

Good luck with the build. You're gonna need lots of time, patience, and money.
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
Quoting transparentdsm:
congrats on the pick up, lets see some more pictures of the car.



Thanks, I'll see if I can get the GoPro charged up tonight and get some better pics than using my phone, which I just noticed they're all upside down and sideways? Looked fine in the iPhoto?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I'll have to host them somewhere with better resolution anyhow.
 
Last edited:

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
Well today I got time under the car to assess the brake line issue and the only rusted area on the line I could find was very close to the rear. Trying to decide on running the line completely new or just doing a fresh double flare on the remaining good part of the line and going from there. That was the only good news of the day. Since I started cleaning out the car once it got home I had a bad feeling about the ECMlink V3 not actually being in the car, and it seems my fears were founded. Nothing but a stock ECU with some melting parts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Are you saying that car was advertised on this forum as having DSMLink v3 and it only came with a stock ECU? I am having trouble finding the AD itself for the car, just other responses. Seems like he sold, then cut and run. This is why I always verify with the eyeballs as to what is included.
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
That's exactly what im saying, unfortunately. I've got a screen shot of the original sale even though dude deleted it, but it's no ones fault but my own and now I get a chance to do this thing right instead of some of the shortcuts that were obviously done on the car.
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
Things are progressing, slowly, but progressing and parts are coming in.

ECU has some damage and will need repairs when sent out.


Got the amazing hood struts from B2 auto. Any extra room under the hood will be welcome since I've already hit my head more times than I care to admit. Complete with 5hp each stickers and free candy!?



New Brake fluid reservoir, ABS delete kit, and a non cruise control cable from JNZ.


Tools to do the lines. Having a friend who spends big money on every tool he owns is a good friend to have /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif



Does anyone have any experience with NiCop brake lines? It's been said to have been used for a long time on some higher end cars, and seems like it will be less of a pain to bend than steel. I'm admittedly not the most patient persion when it comes to stuff like this and have to keep reminding myself of the story of the two bulls. For those of you not familiar with the story.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXYu7E8HHxo (skip to about 1:15)
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
Also forgot to mention, got the 4 bolt out of the DSM rear subframe and no longer have this monstrosity taking up room in the garage. I thought she'd put up way more of a fight, but it came apart pretty easily all things considered and I only had to cut two bolts.


Debating on selling it since it is in pretty good condition, but I'm not sure it's worth waiting until I have enough posts to post it on here. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Spyke169

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
324
Location
Greenfield, Wi
The brake lines may be double the price but as far as ease to work with they are well worth it. Minor missbends are easily straightened by rolling it on a flat surface. One thing to be careful with however is because they bend much easier than steel, if you accidentally bump a nice straight section with a tool or lean on it, whatever, once it's in place, it can bend a bit and may not easily straighten out once in place.
 
Last edited:

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
I ended up going with steel, autozone was out of the Nicop stuff and made some good progress today, The bending tool I borrowed seems to make easy work of the steel line and should last longer than the car anyhow.
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
New brake lines are done, thank god. Still need to button up a few loose ends and get the hangers cleaned up and I'll probably wait until I get the lower stainless lines in to bleed the brakes. Sorry no pictures this time since there's not much to show.
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
161/2000 was totaled in 2006. Just FYI. It got rear ended while parked by some drunk stoned 17 year old asshole in a hyundai accent at about 50mph.

Oh, and thank you to GSTwithPSI for the honorable mention above. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

New goodies are going on 555/1000 in a couple of weeks.
 
Last edited:

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
Look forward to seeing updates on 555. I've been following for a while. More get-stuff-back-to-right parts are on the way here.
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
Quoting mitsuturbo:

Oh, and thank you to GSTwithPSI for the honorable mention above. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

New goodies are going on 555/1000 in a couple of weeks.



Yeah, well some of us whore our cars out too much, and others not enough. You and Sluggs both need to get out of the latter category, IMO.


Lots of good progress on this build already. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all comes together.
 

Yohler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
70
Location
New Lenox, IL
More parts. Doing my best to keep UPS in business.



Odyssey Battery w/ Terminal kit
Battery tray from JMFab
SS lower lines
SS clutch line

This should get the car into non JSB status so I can at least get it clean fully. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif I read somewhere on here you can get away without any sort of tuning with a 2g mas and evo injectors, but I doubt I'll risk it until I can get that taken care of. As far as the battery situation goes, how do most people secure the smaller fuse box that connects to the positive terminal on the battery in the stock location after moving the battery? I only found one mention of it being cable tied to the main fuse box in one thread. Seems like a decent idea, but the casing on mine is pretty beat and cracked.
 
Last edited:

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I bought an Insulated power post and bolted to the passenger strut tower (on the side using an existing 10mm bolt hole. So, that mini fuse holder bolts there, along with the 0-gauge to relocated battery. No zip-ties needed.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top