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Re: 'Horrible noise' says my mother - HELP!


Brunoboy
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352/1000
556/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 917594 posted 07/24/10 01:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting turbowop:

Quoting SmoothCustomer:

The only thing about that cometic though is it's mls correct? That means he will have to disassemble his entire engine to have the block and head decked.




Meh. I never had the deck on my block decked before I threw on a Mitsu MLS headgasket. I had the head rebuilt which included it being decked, but the block was never touched other than me cleaning it off and checking the flatness with a straightedge. Been fine since '03.




Same, i had my head rebuilt and cleaned up, nothing to the block and threw a mls on, 5k miles and 150 psi across all fours.



556/1000 KG 8/10/13 .... Sold
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curtis Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 917598 posted 07/24/10 02:23 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You got bent/broken valves. The pistons are probably trashed as well, the rockers will be fine as well as the keepers and retainers. The cams could be fubar but without looking at the lobes you want know. I know people reuse pistons after they hit but when the piston smacks the valves it can cause fractures in the pistons. I don't reuse them. Besides that while your in there new bearings as well. Sorry man know the feeling



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Whoodoo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 917633 posted 07/24/10 11:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The cams have some slight scoring on some of the lobes. You can see pretty much the worst of it in this picture.



62/2k

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 918093 posted 07/26/10 04:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I got the head off the car yesterday.


The pistons are all smashed up pretty good.


Cylinder walls still look good though


Here's a better picture of the damage to the cams. This is the worst of it. What do you guys think, can I reuse them?


the stock manifold is broke real good too. Almost all of the studs broke and some weren't even tight because they had broke before we even tried to loosen them .


I'll be rebuilding the stock 14b because that's my cheapest option. Plus, I'm sure she wasn't performing quite up to par with all those exhaust leaks and I might be pleasantly surprised by a healthy 14b.

I'm still hunting down all the best deals on everything I need. I think the only machine work I will need is for the new valves, so let's hope I won't be emptying my pockets too much.

I think I had an oil leak somewhere because everything is super grody and dirty. I haven't found any one particular source, but it did go through oil fairly quickly. I am hoping it was just the valve seals.

Can I now be officially JSB?



62/2k


Edited by Whoodoo (07/26/10 04:26 PM)

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Justin
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 918107 posted 07/26/10 05:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My opinion:

Don't reuse the head bolts. Get some new (to you) cams that aren't scored like that. I'd drop the oil pan to clean out any bits and pieces that might have made it down there. Once it is back together, run it for a handful of miles and dump the oil. Flush the system so to speak.

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Jonvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 918210 posted 07/26/10 11:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Check the valve guides, chances are they are trashed and you'll need those replaced during the head rebuild.

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 918216 posted 07/27/10 12:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yea, guides are on the list too.

I got a chance to run a lathe and made myself a nice little 'race' shaft. AMS charges $165 for these
pic is here because for some reason I can't upload anything right now



62/2k

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SouthCaliVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919453 posted 08/01/10 03:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
A quick fyi on the balance shaft belt. you can just leave it off. you don't have to get in & remove it (the forward balance shaft that is). I have had two motors where the balance shaft belt gave way, one I caught before the main was toast, one took the head. your engine will feel a bit rougher with just the one but no more so than if you remove the rear shaft. at least that way you have gotten one engine killer out of the picture & down the road when you rebuild the bottom end (And you will at some point) you can remove the shafts altogether.



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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919718 posted 08/02/10 03:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you are getting a Fluidampr plan to add 20 dollars to your build budget for some arp bolts. Here.

Quote:

For mine, I ordered replacements from ARP. Their part number is 661-1004.
Specs are as follows: M8 x 1.25, UHL = 35mm, 8740 chrome moly, black oxide finish, hex head.




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SouthCaliVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919729 posted 08/02/10 03:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just looked through your pics again, yea you can reuse the cams, just get a red 3m scrubbie pad & smooth em up a bit. Don't reuse the mani, esp if your going to put money in the turbo, when my 1g mani looked like that it was also dropping little chunks of the crystalized minifold through the turbo and had mangled my exhaust wheel, it's not worth it if you can't afford it now just put the hotside back as is & save up for a turbo & manifold down the road a bit.



How do you make a small fortune racing? Start with a very large one!!!

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919822 posted 08/02/10 09:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I bought a complete JDM (yea, I know JDM is phat and all but I swear I'm not a ricer) head with some cams so I squeezed a little bit of go into this repair.

I was planning on getting a rebuild kit for the 14b and finding a 2g manifold to hang it from.

Right now I'm waiting on parts to come in and cleaning off EVERYTHING. It went through oil pretty quickly but it never dripped, so I am assuming that its one or all of the following:
valve seals
turbo
small leaks around the valve cover
possibly the crank seal

All of these will be fixed so lets hope that quells her oil appetite.



62/2k

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VR4ish
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919831 posted 08/02/10 10:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^^ Also, worn piston rings allowing too much blow-by can eat up oil.

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919896 posted 08/03/10 08:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Then lets hope that isn't the case as the pistons are one of the few things I am not getting to this time around. The car only has 140k and the cylinders still have cross hatching and I'm almost positive the engine hasn't been apart ever because everything looked too 'factory' when I took it apart.



62/2k

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moidsm1
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919914 posted 08/03/10 09:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ive reused three motors that had the pistons looking like that. What I do it knock down the rough edges with a small hammer. Remove any metal that looks like it can chip off. Its soft aluminum so dont go ape on it, just take your time and lightly tap down the ridges, it will go down without too much force trust me



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92Galant926
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 919915 posted 08/03/10 09:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Valve guides can also cause an engine to eat up oil... I think you said you were replacing those already though.....

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Speed_Racer
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 920013 posted 08/03/10 05:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Quoting moidsm1:

Ive reused three motors that had the pistons looking like that. What I do it knock down the rough edges with a small hammer. Remove any metal that looks like it can chip off. Its soft aluminum so dont go ape on it, just take your time and lightly tap down the ridges, it will go down without too much force trust me



I've dealt with this too (on customers and my own GGSX) I use a bit of emery cloth to smooth out any rough or sharp edges. They can cause pre-ignition. As long as there are no cracks in the piston(s) you can put it back together with fresh valves and seals usually. But if the engine is old and worn, this is a good time for a rebuild. Oh and ARP head studs are only a little more than new stock bolts, well worth it.


Edited by Speed_Racer (08/03/10 05:42 PM)

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