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GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting 89Patches:
So what's new with the turd?
Just working on some more maintenance stuff and another round of upgrades. Hopefully it's running by this weekend.
So what's new with the turd?
Just working on some more maintenance stuff and another round of upgrades. Hopefully it's running by this weekend.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
I started modding/building 1837 back in February of 2014, well before I was ready. I found issues with the car what threw me into building way before I had ever planned to. As a result, the build was unbalanced, and lacked the quality and finish I always envisioned my car having. Since my time and money aren't as plentiful as I wish they were, I had to build as both allowed.
I've been stacking parts and making plans for 1837 well over a year now. The plan all along was to eventually throw the built motor back in the car once I put it together like I wanted. In addition, I wanted the build to be balanced and well rounded overall, and I told myself I wouldn't tear back into the car until I had a parts stack that would allow for that. I busted the trans (which was always a piece of sh*t) last February when Pot was here. Since the car needed a trans, I figured that was my queue to get my ass in gear and start turning my parts pile into something tangible. Below is about 3 months worth of documentation/work.
So, let's rip this bitch out
I started the motor build with:
6 bolt block punched out 20 over
Stock uncut crank
ARP head and main studs
Ross 2G 85.5mm 8.3:1 forged aluminum pistons
King XP tri-metal racing series main & rod Bearing Set
Eagle H-beam rods sized for a 22mm wrist pin
Verified my measured oil clearances with Plastigauge. They're set a tad on the loose side at .003" right where I wanted them. Also checked the crank end play, which ended up right at .005".
Then checked the ring end gap, ringed the pistons, hung the rods, installed new Spirolox and bearings, and banged them in the bores.
All new hardware for EVERYTHING. OEM BSE, OEM tensioner, Gates belts and pulleys, front case with straight cut gears, etc, etc.
I decided to go with a OEM composite head gasket this time. I also installed ARP head studs and new alignment dowels.
Piece of sh*t Magnus manifold started leaking again last season (second time since I've had it). So, I had a local shop re-weld the runners. We'll see where it starts leaking next...
Next, I installed the new 2G pickup tube.
Then, hot coated all the exhaust parts and bolted the new 68HTA setup together. After that, I installed new exhaust manifold studs and bolted on the turbo assembly.
So, I needed an oil pressure gauge, but ran out of places to put gauges while not cluttering up the interior. So, I just hacked up the cluster and put it in there. It turned out pretty good, IMO.
Rebuilt the throttle body.
Also spent 1,000 hours sanding my valve cover so the paint would look decent.
Motor done.
Motor dropped in.
New Fuel Lab filter setup.
New BOV bolted up to the badass short route piping Sal @ Street Side Motorsports made for me.
Final product.
Sooooo after all that, yesterday, I primed the motor, topped off the fluids and did a preliminary compression test. I got 150 psi on cylinders 4 and 3. In the process of testing number 2, the compression tester hose exploded. I guess that's a good sign. I finished the test with the little stopper insert, and got 150 psi across the board. I kicked on the fuel pump via ECMlink to check for leaks, and all good there as well. So, I cranked up the motor and it fired right up. The car ran great! I wanted to finish the breaking today, but it rained. Go figure. I'll update this again soon when the motor either blows up, or breaks in just fine. Least if it blows up, I'll know who fucked something up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
The car isn't done, and I'm not sure it will ever be. But I'm happy with the current status of the build. As long as it end up running as good as it looks, I'll be satisfied for now. Additionally, I needed to get done with 1837 so I can shift my focus to 820 and 1546. Both of those builds need some serious work.
I'm in the process of updating the mod list in my showcase to reflect all the changes I've made to 1837. Questions, comments, feedback welcomed.
I've been stacking parts and making plans for 1837 well over a year now. The plan all along was to eventually throw the built motor back in the car once I put it together like I wanted. In addition, I wanted the build to be balanced and well rounded overall, and I told myself I wouldn't tear back into the car until I had a parts stack that would allow for that. I busted the trans (which was always a piece of sh*t) last February when Pot was here. Since the car needed a trans, I figured that was my queue to get my ass in gear and start turning my parts pile into something tangible. Below is about 3 months worth of documentation/work.
So, let's rip this bitch out
I started the motor build with:
6 bolt block punched out 20 over
Stock uncut crank
ARP head and main studs
Ross 2G 85.5mm 8.3:1 forged aluminum pistons
King XP tri-metal racing series main & rod Bearing Set
Eagle H-beam rods sized for a 22mm wrist pin
Verified my measured oil clearances with Plastigauge. They're set a tad on the loose side at .003" right where I wanted them. Also checked the crank end play, which ended up right at .005".
Then checked the ring end gap, ringed the pistons, hung the rods, installed new Spirolox and bearings, and banged them in the bores.
All new hardware for EVERYTHING. OEM BSE, OEM tensioner, Gates belts and pulleys, front case with straight cut gears, etc, etc.
I decided to go with a OEM composite head gasket this time. I also installed ARP head studs and new alignment dowels.
Piece of sh*t Magnus manifold started leaking again last season (second time since I've had it). So, I had a local shop re-weld the runners. We'll see where it starts leaking next...
Next, I installed the new 2G pickup tube.
Then, hot coated all the exhaust parts and bolted the new 68HTA setup together. After that, I installed new exhaust manifold studs and bolted on the turbo assembly.
So, I needed an oil pressure gauge, but ran out of places to put gauges while not cluttering up the interior. So, I just hacked up the cluster and put it in there. It turned out pretty good, IMO.
Rebuilt the throttle body.
Also spent 1,000 hours sanding my valve cover so the paint would look decent.
Motor done.
Motor dropped in.
New Fuel Lab filter setup.
New BOV bolted up to the badass short route piping Sal @ Street Side Motorsports made for me.
Final product.
Sooooo after all that, yesterday, I primed the motor, topped off the fluids and did a preliminary compression test. I got 150 psi on cylinders 4 and 3. In the process of testing number 2, the compression tester hose exploded. I guess that's a good sign. I finished the test with the little stopper insert, and got 150 psi across the board. I kicked on the fuel pump via ECMlink to check for leaks, and all good there as well. So, I cranked up the motor and it fired right up. The car ran great! I wanted to finish the breaking today, but it rained. Go figure. I'll update this again soon when the motor either blows up, or breaks in just fine. Least if it blows up, I'll know who fucked something up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
The car isn't done, and I'm not sure it will ever be. But I'm happy with the current status of the build. As long as it end up running as good as it looks, I'll be satisfied for now. Additionally, I needed to get done with 1837 so I can shift my focus to 820 and 1546. Both of those builds need some serious work.
I'm in the process of updating the mod list in my showcase to reflect all the changes I've made to 1837. Questions, comments, feedback welcomed.
Last edited:
marvinmadman
Well-known member
Looks awesome. Just missing a couple injectors
transparentdsm
Well-known member
my goodness, the car is amazing. love love love it dude
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.
The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.
The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.
The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other sh*t, just super clean.
Everything suggests the motor is in good health, so I guess it's ready for flogging now. We'll see how long it takes to break it.
The only other issue I noticed was the trans. I put in a new rebuilt trans, and the gears and synchros feel great. But shifting still feels notchy as f***. And now, the car is being a bitch when I try to shift into 5th or reverse. At this point, I'm pretty confident the issue is with my shifter cables, or the shifter itself. I'll start by trying to make some adjustments to the cables, and check the shifter stops to see if they are interfering. If that doesn't work, I think I'll swap my JNZ short shifter out with a stock one just to see what happens.
I've read the manual on how to adjust the cables, and it's not terribly intuitive. It sounds like a guess and check kinda thing, which sucks balls. If any of you guys have figured out a way to adjust the cables and ended up with good results, let me know what you did.
Here's a short video of the car running: click
The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.
The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.
The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other sh*t, just super clean.
Everything suggests the motor is in good health, so I guess it's ready for flogging now. We'll see how long it takes to break it.
The only other issue I noticed was the trans. I put in a new rebuilt trans, and the gears and synchros feel great. But shifting still feels notchy as f***. And now, the car is being a bitch when I try to shift into 5th or reverse. At this point, I'm pretty confident the issue is with my shifter cables, or the shifter itself. I'll start by trying to make some adjustments to the cables, and check the shifter stops to see if they are interfering. If that doesn't work, I think I'll swap my JNZ short shifter out with a stock one just to see what happens.
I've read the manual on how to adjust the cables, and it's not terribly intuitive. It sounds like a guess and check kinda thing, which sucks balls. If any of you guys have figured out a way to adjust the cables and ended up with good results, let me know what you did.
Here's a short video of the car running: click
Last edited:
turbowop
Well-known member
Garbage.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
when i swap a trans out i hook everything up except for the cable ends to the shifter linkage(lay them next to it, then i go into the car and set the shifter to left/right center and a smidgen back(only a hair), then go out to the engine bay and see how far off the ends of the cables are, adjust the shifter cables inside the car until the cable ends slide on and off the linkage without moving the shifter inside the car from its centered position. i can usually get it in the first try with a slight adjustment as needed once the cables are on the shifter linkage, i have to readjust because i have skateboard bearings on my shifter cable ends instead of bushings and sometime it slightly moves.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
Garbage.
What ever happened to chutter?
Garbage.
What ever happened to chutter?
turbowop
Well-known member
That too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Gizmovr4
Well-known member
I love how clean everything is! Great attention to detail ! Well done sir /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
ApexHunter
Well-known member
Jesus man. Impressive work there. Seems about perfect now. It all really came together, and the airbox really grew on me.
I'm interested to see how the car likes the 68HTA vs. the bastard 20g.
I'm interested to see how the car likes the 68HTA vs. the bastard 20g.
NYC86ZC
Well-known member
Looks great. Nice pics and commentary.
tektic
Well-known member
I wish I used a graphite gasket. Were the main studs in there before or just added? No mention of a line hone. Also what's the first impression of that bov? No cam timing? Everything looks the part. Good job.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
The block was line honed for the studs, and the cams were degreed. The BOV is awesome so far.
fuel
Well-known member
curious to know why the bores weren't honed in the process?
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
The rings weren't new.
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.
The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.
The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.
The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other sh*t, just super clean.
I've been using these magnets on all my oil filters and they def work. click They can be re-used indefinitely. Here are a few pics of a filter after the first oil change since installing on my landy. You'd be surprised what's in your oil! The metal shavings on the actual magnets are from when I cut open the filter with a dremel.
Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.
The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.
The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.
The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other sh*t, just super clean.
I've been using these magnets on all my oil filters and they def work. click They can be re-used indefinitely. Here are a few pics of a filter after the first oil change since installing on my landy. You'd be surprised what's in your oil! The metal shavings on the actual magnets are from when I cut open the filter with a dremel.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
G, thanks for the suggestion. I think I'll order a set of those.
The motor was running great, so I decided to do a little tuning. I needed to start with adding some fuel, since my WB was reading around a point too lean. I set my knock light to two counts, and made a pull. The car pulled clean to redline, with no knock. I zeroed out the boost controller, so the car was on waste gate pressure, which ended up topping out right at 17 psi. Even at 17 psi, my first impression was the 68HTA wanted to pull way past redline, whereas the 16G variants I've had on the car previously would choke up top and drop off peak boost. The car felt really strong, and I was super happy with how it was running.
That's when I had a little hiccup. Mistake #1, not paying attention to the dash...
Next thing I know, the car dies, and I coast to a stop. I cranked it over, no compression.
So, I towed it home and roll the motor over by hand. The cams line up perfect, but the crank is way off. I pull the head, and as expected, I got 8 bent valves out of the deal. Cool. Here are some pics of the carnage.
The pistons were alright. I cleaned them up a bit, and said f*** it, since at this point I had nothing to lose.
Then, pulled a spare head off the shelf and swapped it in.
I couldn't source an HKS intake cam on short notice, so I decided to swap a stock set back in. Jesus, I forgot how good the car idled before I swapped in the 272s! It purrs like a kitten.
Anyways, after a short hiatus after the long hiatus, the car is back in action.
Next up, making the swap back to E85, and seeing what the 68HTA is capable of.
The motor was running great, so I decided to do a little tuning. I needed to start with adding some fuel, since my WB was reading around a point too lean. I set my knock light to two counts, and made a pull. The car pulled clean to redline, with no knock. I zeroed out the boost controller, so the car was on waste gate pressure, which ended up topping out right at 17 psi. Even at 17 psi, my first impression was the 68HTA wanted to pull way past redline, whereas the 16G variants I've had on the car previously would choke up top and drop off peak boost. The car felt really strong, and I was super happy with how it was running.
That's when I had a little hiccup. Mistake #1, not paying attention to the dash...
Next thing I know, the car dies, and I coast to a stop. I cranked it over, no compression.
So, I towed it home and roll the motor over by hand. The cams line up perfect, but the crank is way off. I pull the head, and as expected, I got 8 bent valves out of the deal. Cool. Here are some pics of the carnage.
The pistons were alright. I cleaned them up a bit, and said f*** it, since at this point I had nothing to lose.
Then, pulled a spare head off the shelf and swapped it in.
I couldn't source an HKS intake cam on short notice, so I decided to swap a stock set back in. Jesus, I forgot how good the car idled before I swapped in the 272s! It purrs like a kitten.
Anyways, after a short hiatus after the long hiatus, the car is back in action.
Next up, making the swap back to E85, and seeing what the 68HTA is capable of.
89Patches
Well-known member
So what caused the timing to jump?
