GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » General VR4 Discussions » Re: Alternator - rewound 140 amps 14.2V
Previous thread Next thread

Re: Alternator - rewound 140 amps 14.2V


G Galant VR4.org Moderator
JDM Unit
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1213615 posted 07/30/15 10:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I think that $305 might include the core charge.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8891 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (75.86.151.204) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219862 posted 11/07/15 11:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Decided that with the price of an alternator and needing a starter (for insurance), I would go with a stock 90A output.

Purchased a Bosch 90 amp reman al4008x.

Came in through WorldPac and their NJ warehouse. Core is charged on top of that but the alternator at my shop price, came out $150 CDN.

With the money saved, from not making the high amperage rewind decision, I purchased a Bosch reman starter, also to arrive from NJ in a week or so.

Starter was this part # MD172860, but crossed into WorldPAC's internal # system. 12V 1.2kW 8T CW 8lbs. $120 CDN my cost.

Denso was available and looked great with that plated/dipped ends, but that was $200 CDN.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (173.206.22.185) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219880 posted 11/07/15 07:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Pics of the alternator.






The pulley size you see on the HO alternator that G posted is compared to what is on the unit now, there is a sizeable difference in diameter.

The HO model shows a very small pulley size, the al4008x uses a pulley that covers most of the screw heads, and the alternator I am turning in as a core, had an even larger pulley size. I'll take a smaller pulley if it means the field is stabilized somewhat better at lower turningn speeds ... maybe I'm stretching it a bit here, but the higher you spin it, the sooner the higher output can be achieved.



C53A 1 of the ~1500


Edited by FlyingEagle (11/07/15 07:25 PM)

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.241.194.85) | Report this post to a Moderator

Coltsfan
Member
631/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220010 posted 11/10/15 10:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Still rocking the GM alternators in my Colt, and my Galant. They perform flawlessly.



92 Galant Vr4 631/1000 ---------DD well on it's way to having new everything...
90 AWD Colt Hatchback ----------Fun car
51 Buick Special ---------------Boring car

Posts: 200 | From: Tonawanda | Member Since: 05/04/14 | IP: (76.180.21.67) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220013 posted 11/10/15 11:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I completely agree, and would have opted for that route.

I chose the stock style strictly for these two reasons; size and warranty (free tow/2 yrs parts) through work/nationwide hotline.

My situation with the 50mm core radiator and being able to access the alternator belt tension bolt, created issues with the process.

Custom shroud or a concoction using the stock C53a rad fan shrouding/Ebay fan, is now my biggest issue - not much room in front of the alternator/turbo in a Colt engine bay.

Going from greatest to least distance - stock turbo to rad, the list goes like this: TEL -> GVR4 -> CSM.

I am even thinking that the base of the radiator may contact my front/rear engine support bar, as my rad mounts couldn't get any lower than they are; at first glance.

I noticed the Saturn alternators appear to have a larger external shape, but I judged a book by it's cover, as I have never measured, and thought it was something I read, not just the grinding to fit due to attachment points pulling it in too close to the mounts.

Getting parts here on my end isn't so bad, but returns can add to frustration at work, so I sometimes take the "easy" route. I am fortunate to have that option and don't push it.

Also, should there have been any issue with a part that was modified to fit .... I just hope they wouldn't check what is inside the box, and hope patina on the modded parts had set in, and it looks nearly "stock".



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (173.206.22.185) | Report this post to a Moderator

tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220259 posted 11/12/15 10:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
3700miles on my remanufactured alternator. Stoped charging today after making some noise. Just got stranded. I'm going to look into a gm alternator. I have replaced at least 6 alternator on 4g63 cars. I had enough.

Posts: 1432 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (47.20.56.49) | Report this post to a Moderator

SleepinGVR4
What are we going to do today Ferb?
629/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220274 posted 11/13/15 08:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had a bosch alternator. It was the biggest piece of shit I've ever owned. I had the stator go twice and then the bearings went.

The place I have rebuild my OEM alternators told me they won't touch bosch alternators and that they are complete junk.

I haven't had an issue with my current rebuild by them. They can also get brand new Mitsu alternators, that's my next route if this one ever fails.

Posts: 2483 | From: Danville, Pennsylvania | Member Since: 02/12/03 | IP: (216.49.8.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
866/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220275 posted 11/13/15 09:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I guess it depends on what they are for and if they are refurbs or not. My 93 Merc 300E can ONLY run a Bosch alternator. I tried several different brands, all failed within days. The Bosch I took off was the original form the factory, made it 180k miles



Thom
866/1000 (PTE 1200's, billet 20g+, DSMLink v3, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, GC/AGX Coilovers)

Posts: 870 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Member Since: 09/24/14 | IP: (50.58.165.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220288 posted 11/13/15 11:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      

I did notice that the rectifier bridge was sand blasted (old red paint still poking around) and the diode cap that was visible through the corresponding hole in the case, was also sand blasted.

So maybe it failed only on account of the brushes being worn out? I can only guess .....

You guys couldn't have chime in earlier eh? Reference to Bosch stuff having issues .....

Well, what is done is done and if I get through the radiator install before an alternator goes bad again, then I can look at clearance for a Saturn unit (new).



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (173.206.22.185) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1224595 posted 02/22/16 07:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey Tim,

So how did this end up working out? Was there a noticeable difference with the higher output unit?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1224605 posted 02/22/16 10:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Winter and a donor car happened.
I have a 1992 Plymouth Colt being completely stripped, sitting in my garage.
I have to run the on-wall heater and the standalone model for 30 minutes before stepping into the garage in last weeks temperatures to keep my hands off frosty metal bits.

There will be no doubt in my mind that the boost in base amperage (capability at the same rpm between lower and higher amp units), will be good in every way.

Bear in mind that the design is the same as a lower amp unit, so RPM's always equal better output.

ECMLink keeping the idle steady (or a non-hunting stock setup) and a proper flywheel combination for intended purposes, will keep the whole scenario in check with less effort required to keep everything in balance.

Time will tell, and sadly I would need more time to tune the ECU following the installation of the new alternator. I got the car running just to park it outside during red car tear down.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (24.114.48.5) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227793 posted 05/07/16 04:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
FML. I noticed my gauges slightly pulsing, so figured I should check out what my battery voltage was doing...



Looks like the rectifier is taking a shit? I don't know what it is, but these alternators aren't lasting. This is the 3rd alternator I've put on the car. Granted, the last unit was an Autozone reman, because that's all I could get locally at the time...

I've ran all new wiring (+ and -), and and added an 8 gauge power wire directly from the charging post to the + terminal. I've also got heat shielding in place, so I really don't think its getting cooked?

Should I just pick up a Bosch unit? Looks like I can get a remand AL4008X unit for ~$200 bucks. Thoughts?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3403 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227844 posted 05/08/16 02:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The theory is that anything with genuine Mitsubishi guts, will outlast all the aftermarket stuff.

So, I can't actually comment on what is installed in the Bosch reman, as it is anyones guess as to what recitifier/bridge/guts are inside it right now.

I haven't even put the alternator in the car yet.

That is something I should do this afternoon! New belts to go with that ...

I have upgraded wiring just like you do GSTwithPSI, so no strain on the system there.

There is one alternator in my basement that may have Mitsu internals still in it, two alternators as cores have worn out brushes I believe.

When I have a torch setup here capable of taking out the solder on the diode array, I will see if a simple bush swap will bring one of them back to life as a backup. Would be great to find Mitsu stamps on the inside ... but not holding my breathe for one of the two units, as it is already a reman unit.

I will be running the Bosch unit you posted.

P.S. Any distributor that carries products sold through WorldPac, will carry a two year NorthAmerican warranty, and roadside tow, so food for thought. Hope none of us need it.
Be sure to swap the alternator bolt for easy removal. This is also a note for anyone that has not had their alternator out and could save them valuable time.



C53A 1 of the ~1500


Edited by FlyingEagle (05/08/16 02:44 PM)

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.241.192.58) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1230939 posted 08/10/16 10:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay, car is up and running. Dealing with tuning issues (I am not seasoned at this sort of stuff), but the volt gauge tells me that things are where they are supposed to be. With lots of loads the output drops in voltage .. but I need to first ascertain at what RPM the engine is at and with proper AFR (not relevant like RPM for proper minimum operation).
Got a laptop situation sorted and I can now look at long term prognosis of the alternator and other components. So far, things come down to proper temp with fans in operation, next up is actually putting stress on the system to soak it and see what happens. Driveway queen for the win, at the moment. E-test is next. At least they have now waived the fee because it was a tax on a tax.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.224.87.214) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1230940 posted 08/10/16 10:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh, I should add that I have wrap on my 02 housing (2G style cast), and the downpipe right past the oil pan, with custom muffler/resonator body heat shielding fashioned into exhaust manifold and 02 housing shields. New gasket from Vibrant Performance products was installed this AM and that solved the leak I had at the 02 to downpipe mating area with my solid stainless gasket. Indestructible yes, maleable no. 'Nuff said.
Now there are no stray exhaust gases nor excessive heat that can migrate its way towards the alternator. Time will tell.


Looking at that picture, makes me want to add another shield from the lowest heat shield bolt near the alternator, down to the bolt that keeps the coolant tube held to the block. That tab doesn't preform much function anymore, so maybe I can make another duct of sorts, so air blowing by the bottom will draw something out of the funnel as it were.



C53A 1 of the ~1500


Edited by FlyingEagle (08/10/16 10:25 PM)

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.224.87.214) | Report this post to a Moderator

diambo4life
Member
476/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1230951 posted 08/11/16 09:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That alternator wilL NOT live there. Probably better result if you can wrap the O2 sensor housing as well.



1990 GSX: New project..
1991 Belize Green GVR4 #476/2000: 710WHP/501TQ (dynojet)in 2014, Street trim, 3400lbs! [email protected] (wastegate)
91 Talon: [email protected] (quickest) [email protected] (fastest) 3200lbs, 17" street tires in 2009 (sold.)

Posts: 240 | From: Edmond, OK. USA. | Member Since: 07/07/13 | IP: (64.135.58.130) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1231510 posted 09/04/16 08:46 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
02 housing is wrapped, just not super visible in the picture. Alternator is charging properly per the temp related output chart. I have yet to have a +35C plus humidex factor with fans going, AC on, to confirm a near max load and real world driving scenario ala stop and go, low speeds and highway. I have been close and the alternator and radiator seem to do just fine. I am on stock boost for an Evo3 and haven't been pushing it to higher load levels yet via tuning, because I just got the base tune sorted and have yet to dial in the MAF comp sliders.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.224.203.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1234193 posted 12/16/16 01:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Update for those interested in long term reports and gremlins if any.

Put roughly 1200km's on the car so far, and things are looking good.

Voltages are right on spec with the Mitsubishi temperature regulation chart, all the way up to 220 degrees celcius in the cooling system in stop and go traffic.

Bear in mind, I have no stock power/ground wires left in my system, they are all minimum 4 awg or larger, 2 awg for the starter feed.

I wrapped all my new wiring into the loom that tucks into the factory plastic shield under the radiator support. Just fits in there with the AC condenser ..... just.

Removed all the factory feed wires from the alternator entirely, within the harness. Essentially the harness was completely reworked and tape and insulated if need be right by the alternator positive
terminal.

So, even with heat soak and the roughly 30 percent larger wiring needed in an engine bay/high temp environment to safely run power and ground, I won't be having any issues with what I have installed currently.

Battery is in the trunk and IIRC, is a group size that just fits in the confines of the Taylor stainless boxes. Lots of CCA in this battery.

Okay, so the only hiccup that my car has is idle until things warm up. Surprise! It's something we all deal with because of the design of the air way and electronic compensation.

Otherwise my fans draw things down pretty good and then add the AC compressor and signals (which by themselves will still bounce the voltage need on my Defi Racer Blue gauges).

So, that is it for today's update. The car is off the road till the salt washes off the roads in the spring or my headgaskets let go in a furious fashion on the Legacy. First world problems.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1612 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (173.206.147.248) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1 | 2
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 26 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 7140

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.187 seconds in which 0.116 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.


Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page