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Re: #461... Soon to be a real car again


diambo4life
Member
476/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1235331 posted 02/15/17 11:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That sidewall does not even look like a 40. Looks great drew.



1991 Belize Green GVR4 #476/2000: 788WHP/588wTQ (dynojet), 3400lbs!
91 Talon: [email protected] (quickest) [email protected] (fastest) 3200lbs, 17" street tires in 2009 (sold.)

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transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


152/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1235346 posted 02/15/17 08:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
car looks freaking awesome man!!



138/2000
152/1000

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248779 posted 04/20/20 11:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Partly due to a desire to actually finish this stupid pig, and partly Covid19, I'm actually working on it again



Stock brake clevis prior to pedal assembly removal



For a car that doesn't even have surface rust on the underside and suspension can be removed without PB blaster... the pedal box is nasty. Definitely going to sand, neutralize & paint before reinstall



Modifying pedal ratio, and eliminating clevis adapter (balance bar installs directly into pedal)



Painting pieces, looking far better already





-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST


Edited by slugsgomoo (04/20/20 11:41 AM)

Posts: 3711 | From: Tacoma, WA | Member Since: 10/16/03 | IP: (75.172.1.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248780 posted 04/20/20 11:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
test fit round 1 of 10,298,235,092,835



Rear master cylinder clevis hits the pedal box... time to do some cutting



not pretty, but it's under the dash, not sharp, and everything clears



close up of the balance bar pivot with the master cylinders attached



custom CNC mounting plate, Tilton master cylinders & Wilwood balance bar. Nasty old power booster in the background. Cylinders are 3/4 Front & 5/8 Rear



more cutting! the plate matches the bolts perfectly, but the Tiltons need more room to get through the firewall



Of course, the pedal assembly would feel left out, so it wants to be disassembled and have more cut off there too



Brief glamour shots of the wheels & such... Front brakes are a TCE performance kit, 13" Dynapro 6 calipers



Dyna Pro 4 rear calipers, and a second parking brake caliper that uses the OEM cable pull



Master cylinder plate & masters mounted



If you want to see the pedal moving in action, here's a gif-v link on imgur

Dash back together, seat installed



Looking more like a real car all the time



Built a bracket out of aluminum- when your fab tools are some cutting implements and a drill press, you do the best you can



Better view of how the reservoir mount sits



hand bent hard lines- they're 10mm at the blocks to match the car, and SAE at the master end due to the fittings I had being AN -> SAE... ah well, it's not stupid if it works



Everything mounted, and sweet illegal ATE Super Blue fluid in the system (USA DOT bans non-amber brake fluid for street use, derp)




-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST

Posts: 3711 | From: Tacoma, WA | Member Since: 10/16/03 | IP: (75.172.1.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

mooserage
New Title
254/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248781 posted 04/20/20 01:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice work, it looks awesome, and I'm sure you'll be happy to be able to balance those brakes better .



-254/2000 Summit White DD (aka "The Yeti")

The Yeti loves winter and hates me.

-ムースライジュ

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248786 posted 04/21/20 01:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
thanks! definitely hoping it helps make the car a bit more composed. I had a pretty interesting brake experience coming down from ~130 last time I had the car together that kind of cemented the idea in my head. With the factory bias, and the big fronts, it's really easy to lock the fronts with the rears never really doing anything. Not that it's unmanageable, or that they're worse than stock (definitely not) but it definitely requires more attention to finding that threshold for peak braking/grip.



-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST

Posts: 3711 | From: Tacoma, WA | Member Since: 10/16/03 | IP: (75.172.1.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

JNR
5 star (English Professor) member Has extensive pop up picture book collection
20/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248797 posted 04/22/20 06:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Do you have, or will be installing, an adjustable brake proportioning valve? Not sure how they work with ABS though (as in, would a standard unit like you may find on Summit work, or does it have to be special).

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248800 posted 04/23/20 03:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
He installed two master cylinders. One for the front and one for the rear. No proportioning valve needed.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248801 posted 04/23/20 09:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^ Mark is correct. The balance bar allows you to choose which cylinder (front or rear) gets more power, so that's the adjustment right there.

As for ABS... NO.

It's garbage from the factory- it's 1980's dual channel glacial junk that increases stopping distances (my super non-scientific testing methods showed a decrease of > 18 feet with ABS disabled doing 60-0). As a result, it's been eliminated on my car since 2007.

I'm working on increasing pedal feel, and braking performance, and the stock ABS is 100% the wrong direction for that

I will say, for anyone staying on power assist brakes, or going to the Ostar setup Craig has (liv4psi), an adjustable bias valve (especially with a remote to adjust from the cabin) would be a big upgrade over the stock proportioning valve. Wilwood proportioning valve with remote bias adjust (definitely cheaper on summitracing though!). You'll also need one of these bad boys to handle the rear lines since there are only 3 output ports (2 front, 1 rear)

From talking to a few folks with adjustable bias on their racecars, generally you adjust bias towards the rear until you start getting rear lockup under hard braking, and then you adjust back towards the front a bit. It should result in getting the absolute maximum braking performance you can, since you're not under utilizing the rear. TBH, other than having to build lines (either SS or hard lines) to make it work, that's not really any more expensive than an OEM ABS delete, and you get a big performance perk IMO.



-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST

Posts: 3711 | From: Tacoma, WA | Member Since: 10/16/03 | IP: (75.172.1.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

raptorWagon
less than one year to my birthday
1350/2000
362/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248841 posted 04/26/20 05:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

generally you adjust bias towards the rear until you start getting rear lockup under hard braking, and then you adjust back towards the front a bit. It should result in getting the absolute maximum braking performance you can, since you're not under utilizing the rear.



That's actually the instructions per Wilwood on their Prop Valves.



92 Galant VR-4 362/1000
76 Galant Hardtop
79 Galant Sigma Wagon
88 Fiji Blue Starion
94 Montero SR

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248896 posted 05/03/20 02:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The funny thing is, I probably read the instructions once like 3-4 years ago when I bought it...

Jay Racing Billet mains, ARP studs, Kiggly Girdle...



Front case is on. Unseen is the GSC race shaft. I know the stub is fine, but I've been wasting enough money that what's a little more?



K1 Steel rods, billet mains, ARP everything, blah blah



modded pickup tube (reduce chances of cavitation due to uncovering the front of the pickup nuking the oil pump)



Some deep, deep valve cuts... something something 10.5:1 Wiseco 1400HD




-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST

Posts: 3711 | From: Tacoma, WA | Member Since: 10/16/03 | IP: (75.172.1.93) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


152/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248929 posted 05/06/20 07:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
DaMN!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looking good buddy.



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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248930 posted 05/06/20 09:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Purty.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-SOLD
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1248934 posted 05/06/20 04:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Thanks guys. Because I can't leave well enough alone, I just ordered some stuff to convert to electric power steering as well... Hopefully it doesn't drag out the process too much as I want to drive the car this summer, but I can't help myself.



-andrew
{witty signature}
#461 Kensington Grey - 2.0L/T67/etc
2015 Triumph Tiger 800 XCx
2014 Ford Focus ST

Posts: 3711 | From: Tacoma, WA | Member Since: 10/16/03 | IP: (75.172.1.93) | Report this post to a Moderator


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