Turbo to exhauxst manifold bolts.

[gvr4ever]

Does anyone make a higher quality one then the factory unit? Any high temp anti seize products that are worth using?

I don't plan on taking things apart any time soon, but if I do, I don't want any more snapped bolts.

 

[EHmotorsports]

I use grade 8 or higher bolts for the turbo. And I have found that the copper high temp works best. If you use regular anti seize it will act like lock tight.

 

[prove_it]

Agreed. The factory bolts are good enough. They break due to the 100k miles of heat cycling. Also OVERTORQUING any bolt will cause it to seize. That's the most important part. It's easy to wrench them on to over 60ft lbs torgue. Any bolt will fail then. Also improper removal of stuck bolts will cause issues too. To this day I have not broken one bolt, it's a PITA, but possible. KNOCK ON WOOD.

Never use stainless bolts either, I just stick with oem bolts and torque them with a torque wrench.

 

[CutlassJim]

I again agree with prove it. I would use stainless bolts because I work in the vacuum furnace industry and everything under 1100° c is stainless. I am cheap though and I use factory bolts. The key is to not over torque them. I forget the spec but its way lower than you think. They make an antisieze better than the copper stuff made from nickel. Its super expensive though. Another key thing is to use the factory 2g spring washers and NOT use that shitty aftermarket solid gasket. They suck and blow out the sides and don't allow for any crush. OEM ftw.

 

[Barnes]

Pure Nickle or High temp stainless baby. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

http://www.bostik-us.com/market-products/product-assembly/mro/products/#regulargr

 

[CutlassJim]

The nuclear grade nickel is exactly what we use.

 

[Barnes]

I have a bottle of nuclear grade. Stuff is fantastic. I don't know if the nuclear grade is really *needed* as it might be more of a paperwork thing vs. actual difference. But really, it's realtively cheap to have what is probably the absolute best product for this application.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

you guys buy the bolts from the dealer or what? Im in the market for a new set.

 

[CutlassJim]

JNZ usually. I run a FP manifold right now so I use two regular and two O2 housing bolts. Still two 2G spring washers on each.

 

[jnava]

WIth personal experience, buying anti-sieze is vital to avoid major headaches. I used it on my last e316g and it was a piece of cake unlike the the previous turbos.

 

[4Grim]

Your best friend is Nickle anti-seize...its worth it and makes your life much more easier.

I have never had a issue with OEM bolts and with my GVR4 with the FP manifold I am using FP hareware and haven't had a issue either. I used nickle anti seize and not over torque.

 

[Vr4junkie]

There's theses right here from SSSTUDS >>> click 30 bucks for the set.

 

[prove_it]

I bought their manifold to head studs and they are great quality. I've never used the nickel antiseize, but will now that I know about it. I still think that proper torque will solve most problems. It doesn't take much. 40ft lbs and your good. Also new non stretched bolts will help too.

 

[CutlassJim]

Quoting Vr4junkie:
There's theses right here from SSSTUDS >>> click 30 bucks for the set.



Those aren't the location he's talking about but I have both of those in full stainles and love them. They fit perfect and still look like the day I bought them.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Bolts and washers, the proper fix; OEM with proper OEM washers.
RTM Racing
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