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Getting angry with car stalling


deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 791913 posted 05/13/09 06:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
so I have been struggling with the car stalling at stops for some time, and now I am over it. Its worse when the motor is loaded, such as running the lights, and real bad when running the AC. It died every stop today with the AC running. I have replaced the speed sensor, checked the idle motor, no boost leaks. The list of mods is at my link below, but its your typical E16G,FMIC,HKS 264/272, 3G MAS, Keydiver chip, safc, 720's, etc. I am on a mission now to fix this, no matter how pissed I get. Throw me any guess you might have. I need my AC, its going to be 103* this weekend.



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ktmrider
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 791916 posted 05/13/09 06:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My car had similar issues, the problem went away after I replaced the alternator. Since your issue happens with a heavy electrical load that's were I would begin.
Do a quick voltage check with the car running ( no load/lights then loaded ) across the battery. Should not see the voltage drop below 13v. Also check for AC at the battery, should be less than 0.25v.



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GVR4_1057
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 791919 posted 05/13/09 06:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is your coolant line removed from the tb? If so did you block the FIAV passage? I had simmilar problems with mine and even though the ISC had good coils it was still giving me problems. I replaced it with a new 2G black ISC and now my car idles perfect and never shuts off. Also maybe try the BISS setting procedure.



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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792028 posted 05/13/09 10:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
the coolant passage is still hooked up. And as for the battery voltage, the gauge looks to read in range, but that may not mean anything. Now, when you test for voltage, I assume its above idle to get 14v, not at idle? And you are checking it right at the battery?



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Lonewolf64
Obviously the answer is......
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792087 posted 05/14/09 01:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm watching this thread as well. I believe it has to do with my close throttle switch not being properly adjusted causing a rich condition when the throttle plate closes and the injectors do not turn off. It happens to me when I'm coming to a stop and put the clutch in at low rpm right before I stop.



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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792088 posted 05/14/09 02:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GVR4_1057:

I had simmilar problems with mine and even though the ISC had good coils it was still giving me problems. I replaced it with a new 2G black ISC and now my car idles perfect and never shuts off. Also maybe try the BISS setting procedure.




I'll +1 to the ISC comment. On 503 the coils tested out good, but when I swapped in the ISC from 1051 and zeroed it out it solved some idle issues I was having. I ordered a new one through Rock Auto and haven't had any issues since.

Try to find a buddy with one you can borrow just to try it out. It's easy enough to swap them, so shouldn't be a big deal.



-Mark

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Armitage
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792122 posted 05/14/09 08:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was having a stalling problem recently so I pressure tested the vacuum system. Turned out the hose to the EGR had blown off so I had a moderately big boost leak as well as a non-functional EGR.



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1990ggsxnj
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792123 posted 05/14/09 08:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've seen some mods but no mention of BOV recirc. What maf setup are you using?



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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792163 posted 05/14/09 10:44 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The bov is recirc'ed, and I am using the 3G mas. Keep the ideas coming! I want to run my AC without it stalling!



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792342 posted 05/14/09 07:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Have you tried adding any extra timing advance temporarily, by advancing the CAS a few degrees? Just stay out of the throttle for the test.

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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792416 posted 05/15/09 12:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I did try that, then I got knock. I am at about 3* with only occasional part throttle knock



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792455 posted 05/15/09 08:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's why I said "stay out of the throttle". How does more timing affect the stalling? You are at 3*, which might be aggravating the situation. I can always recurve the maps to have more timing at low airflow/load, and less under boost, if more timing helps the stalling.

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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792470 posted 05/15/09 09:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Gotcha. Now stock timing is 5*, correct? Would you recommend starting there, or go more aggressive since I have cams?



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792623 posted 05/15/09 03:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'd set it at 7*, just as a test to see if it helps with the stalling. Just stay out of the boost.

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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792775 posted 05/15/09 11:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Monday when I have time to work on the car I'll do that. And check the voltage to the battery, if I can get spec of what that should be at idle.



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brisvr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792821 posted 05/16/09 03:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Can you log your tps? I had a stalling issue which turned out to be the tps only returning to 11 - 12% instead of 10 when I was stopping at lights. For some reason the car didn't like to idle at those levels and would stall.
Mine turned out to be a slightly sticky Throttle body.
Once I got it sorted out it never stalled out again.



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ktmrider
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792851 posted 05/16/09 08:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting deez:

And check the voltage to the battery, if I can get spec of what that should be at idle.


Hey deez, sorry for not answering the above question.
Modern alternators "should" output 14v even at idle. Here is a great link explaining the reason click
Generally the electrical load test will tell you how good the windings are, AC test tells you diode health, and total voltage shows regulator operation.
Oh and on the TPS if you use a logger the reading should be between 11-12%. Do the math, 0.63v/5v ( target output by total TPS voltage range ) = 12%.



Mike O.
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Edited by ktmrider (05/16/09 08:27 AM)

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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792873 posted 05/16/09 10:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
K, so I need to log my TPS, try the timing at 7*, and take the car down and have the alternator checked out. Anything else?



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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792875 posted 05/16/09 10:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is the ISC the same as the idle air control valve on Rockauto's site? I can't seem to find something called an ISC there



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 792926 posted 05/16/09 01:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting ktmrider:

Oh and on the TPS if you use a logger the reading should be between 11-12%. Do the math, 0.63v/5v ( target output by total TPS voltage range ) = 12%.




As I've explained before, the .63 volts is a 2G spec. 1G cars it is .45-.55 volts, 9-11%, a much tighter spec than the .3X-1 volt range a 2G can be set for some reason.

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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 793437 posted 05/18/09 12:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just checked the battery, and with the car idling its 14.01V, with lights on 13.98V, and with lights and AC running 12.67V. Hows that?



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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 793452 posted 05/18/09 01:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Question in reference to setting timing....which plug do I ground to set the timing? Its it the one by the intake in front of the brake fluid reservoir with the yellow wire or the one above the clutch reservoir on the firewall?



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 793466 posted 05/18/09 01:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Its the big oval connector, usually with a dust cover you have to remove, and one small pin inside you can clip to. You do NOT want the female spade terminal, which is the +12 volts to the fuelpump!

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deez
Nutz


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 793483 posted 05/18/09 02:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay, I checked the ISC setting and its at .50V, so thats good. Then I set the timing at 7 or 8 degrees, drove it for a bit, and it seems better. So do I need a different chip so I don't get knock now?



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keydiver
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 793572 posted 05/18/09 05:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Yes, if a few extra degrees on the lower maps helps, I can try to design a chip like that for you.

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