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Re: DIAGNOSE MY CAR!!- another won't start...


Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747268 posted 01/19/09 12:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Your tach won't move if the CAS is dead.



Ryan Hertz

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747309 posted 01/19/09 02:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks Hertz thats great info. My tach moves while Im cranking so thats not it.

I fixed the o2 sensor back to the o2 the car last ran on... Going to figure out CEL code tonight hopefully...

Keep it coming, thanks for all the help so far.
-Alan



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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747532 posted 01/19/09 10:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I got this tester tonight click and couldnt get the thing to light up. It light up when I tried to do other things but nothing following these instructions click

So another sypmtom now is that the motor isnt even cranking now

I hear a clicking from the ECU when I crank but nothing else besides almost a hissing noise from under the hood like if I had some massive fuel injectors, which I dont. After I cranked the key a few times there was a faint ticking noise coming from the throttle body area? Eventually quit and couldnt get it to do it again but Im not real sure whats going on at all with this car.

So frustrated guys, I NEED HELP, Please.
-Alan

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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747550 posted 01/19/09 11:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You've been cranking and cranking trying to get the car to start, so now your battery is probably dead.

BTW, you'll never hear the fuel pump "prime" the system just by turning the key on. The fuel pump only pumps fuel if the CAS is spinning.

Sounds like you're in a bit over your head. I would try to find some local DSM guy to help out.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747554 posted 01/20/09 12:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have a two battery setup right now because my optima isnt holding a full charge and the other battery is brand new, on a charger...

I am in over my head but Im kind of in solo and no one will really help me locally, thats why Im relying on you GVR4 gods to lead me in the right way.



1632 & now 1793 -1/6/18


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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747556 posted 01/20/09 12:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
IMO, you need to tell us exactly what things are doing. Not "well, maybe the buzzing is my CD player and not my MPI relay". We certainly can't diagnose something over the internet when we're not even sure where a buzzing noise is actually coming from.

It's probably a combination of a couple of simple issues. Most of the veteran members here could probably have that car fired up within an hour.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747562 posted 01/20/09 01:03 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ive been just trying to post as I go, find out more info and posting it. It was after all the cd player making a noise it never had before.

I have full confidence its a few small things combining that a vet could work out thats why Im hoping for a little help in the form of a few checks in a step-by-step process...

Sorry about the conflicting symptoms but Im just posting as I learn and find new things, I apologizing for the noob forhead slaps and headshakes. Just trying to learn and mode a car Ive loved for years and finally own.

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 747692 posted 01/20/09 12:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Going to try a ECU swap tonight out of a 1g GSX if I can get ahold of my buddy. Keydiver is thinking my ECU took the acid dive because the lack of a light from that #10 prong with a 12v tester.



1632 & now 1793 -1/6/18


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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 748029 posted 01/20/09 10:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Pulled the ECU, nothing looks terrible to my untrained eye but what do I know. Took some pictures hopfully they show up well and you guys can tell me yay or nay.



This is the only thing I could see that worried me a little bit, wasnt the greenish-black I was told to look for but this is more like rusty brown?? Didnt know if it wasn anything to be alarmed by.

-Alan



1632 & now 1793 -1/6/18


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stevep
Fixes ECUs


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 748266 posted 01/21/09 01:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The only things I can tell for sure from that picture is that I need my glasses. Oh, I have them on, it must be the picture that's out of focus.

Actually I can tell that whoever changed that cap didn't do it correctly. I can still see the electrolyte damage (the tarnished copper under the green solder mask) to the ground trace and suspect that the cap isn't really soldered to both sides of the board.

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 748575 posted 01/22/09 12:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well thats interesting, do you think thats where some of my problem lies? If so is it repairable or am I better off sourcing a different one?

Those caps werent replaced anytime soon. Several years ago I'd bet so could they have messed up more over time or what?



1632 & now 1793 -1/6/18


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stevep
Fixes ECUs


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 751549 posted 01/28/09 11:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The ECU is pretty rough. The caps had leaked in the past and while fresh ones were installed there wasn't much attention spent on the rest. It had also blown one of the ISC drivers in the past and a replacement driver installed but it's not connected to anything. Only one of the four ISC drivers was functional. Both of the drivers on either side were half installed and are questionable. I'll test them before reinstalling.



I haven't done anything but remove the parts so far.


Edited by stevep (01/28/09 11:50 PM)

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 751586 posted 01/29/09 01:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Maybe there is some contribution from the ECU why the car wont start. lol

What would make all of that go bad ya think? I mean I understand acid getting around and working its magic but what about the ISC drivers (what do they do?) blowing?

I have faith you can fix everything, I just hope this was the only problem holding my car back from coming off those jackstands.

-Alan

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752352 posted 01/30/09 02:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
After Steve rebuilt my ECU he said something could be wrong with my ISC since all the drivers in the ECU were messed up.

What can I do to test this? Is the voltmeter method the only way? and is there a wright up anywhere on how to do that exactley, I think I know how but want to be sure. If I do find its not up to the correct ohms whats all involved in replacing it. Can I jack anything off a 1g auto turbo parts car to make it work?

Any help is much appreciated, I will keep searching as well.
-Alan



1632 & now 1793 -1/6/18


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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752358 posted 01/30/09 02:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can test your isc with a multimeter. There is a write up on vfaq under "intake".

Here <- taken from www.vfaq.com

Or

Here

Mine was bad so I bought a new one from these guys. Here.


Edited by Mike_1101 (01/30/09 02:54 PM)

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752398 posted 01/30/09 04:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks a ton Mike, exact info I was looking for. Much appreciative!

Now I just need to know if I can rob the ISC off my 1g auto gs-t parts car?? Just as a cheap fix so I can get this car on the road!!

-Alan


Edited by mean_green (01/30/09 04:39 PM)

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ItsAliiive
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752408 posted 01/30/09 04:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No problem, wish I could've helped more but I too am learning as I go on most of this stuff.

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keoni176
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752477 posted 01/30/09 07:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes you can use the isc from the 1g auto. I would check the isc per the previous posted link before you use it. Don't want to burn up another driver from a bad coil in the isc.

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752480 posted 01/30/09 07:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^ Thanks Chris, Jeff (keydiver) already informed me that a lot of the ISC are compatible between these cars. But I will test them both and see whats going on.

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stevep
Fixes ECUs


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 752675 posted 01/31/09 11:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting mean_green:

After Steve rebuilt my ECU he said something could be wrong with my ISC since all the drivers in the ECU were messed up.

What can I do to test this? Is the voltmeter method the only way? and is there a wright up anywhere on how to do that exactly, I think I know how but want to be sure. If I do find its not up to the correct ohms whats all involved in replacing it. Can I jack anything off a 1g auto turbo parts car to make it work?

Any help is much appreciated, I will keep searching as well.
-Alan




Sorry I should have pointed you to dsmisc.com and Stealth316 ISC page.

You don't want to see any of the ISC coils measure below 15 - 20 ohms or so.

The current to step the ISC runs through these chips and they aren't designed to take more than 2A for a couple of milliseconds.

I wasn't able to do anything about the burned fiberglass around IC105 from the driver blowing in the past but I was able to repair all the electrical damage it caused and replace the other ISC driver(IC107) that didn't look fried but had one channel dead. Most of your ECU's problems stemmed from the unresolved damage the driver did when it burned up. The capacitor leakage problems were minor other than the damage caused by the person who changed them drilling holes in the board and burning the solder pads.



Hopefully the postman calls you this morning to come pick it up.


Edited by stevep (01/31/09 11:45 AM)

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 753270 posted 02/02/09 10:23 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
UPDATE:

Nothings changed after SteveP fixed my ECU.

Car wont crank, just hear a sort of hiss/squeal from underhood, its quiet, almost like I have massive fuel injectors and nothing at all. No crank no half attempt no nothing.

Some reason no powers getting to the starter obviously, and since I havent changed anything I went searching for a blown fuse. Find everything in check besides one of the ABS computer fuses is all messed up. But I doubt that would cause my car to not even turn over.

Can someone please tell me how I should go about searching for whats wrong with this car. Ive checked and doubled checked the work I did and my friend has gone threw it too and didnt see anything of concern.

I dont know if its a grouding issue or what but all the grounds I touched seem to have great contact against the firewall. Theres alot of harnesses unattached sine I delete the ABS and cruise but I believe those are all well and dandy too. Checked out the ISC and it hit 36-38 across the board.

Im running out of ideas and pulling my hair out. Its great to see the car on the ground, now I want to drive it.

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toybreaker Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 753271 posted 02/02/09 10:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Theres alot of harnesses unattached sine I delete the ABS and cruise but I believe those are all well and dandy too.




There's a rectangular plug in the vicinity of the battery, as originally installed.

It controls the power out to the starter solenoid, as well as power to the inside of the car.

please make sure that's plugged in before you go any further.



the bitterness of low quality remains long after the temporary joy of a low price has faded

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stevep
Fixes ECUs


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 753388 posted 02/02/09 03:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting mean_green:

UPDATE:

Nothings changed after SteveP fixed my ECU.




Does the CEL turn on for five seconds when you turn the ignition on?

Do you have a voltmeter?

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mean_green
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 753451 posted 02/02/09 05:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes CEL turns on the goes off like normal, stock boost gauge reads half-way.

I do have a mulitimeter and hopefully Toybreaker can help me sort this out over the phone tonight.

-Alan

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toybreaker Galant VR4.org Moderator
it's peace of mind at 100 mph plus
1990/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 753609 posted 02/02/09 09:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   


On the passenger side unibody section in front of the strut are a few mission critical harness connectors. They are somewhat hidden by the airflow meter and other stuff, so they're hard to see.

Circled in red, the rectangular connector is the power distribution connector for the car.

Circled in yellow, the triangular connector is the connection down to the starter solenoid.



If they are both plugged in, and the car won't crank, (as in rotate when you have the key in the start position) unplug the starter harness and check for power at the car side of the harness while the key is in the start postion. (you're checking the black with yellow stripe wire)



If there's nobody home on the car side of the starter solenoid harness, unplug the clutch down switch and try again. The switches go bad, and the little yellow plastic button that depresses it also gets broken. This will prevent the starter from operating. Unplugging the switch opens the interlock circuit, and will allow the starter to operate any time the key is in the start position.



the bitterness of low quality remains long after the temporary joy of a low price has faded


Edited by toybreaker (02/02/09 09:32 PM)

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