The way you have the new nipple connected is defeating the purpose of the mod.
If you were to have a solenoid inline that would close off the boost source to this new nipple (when positive pressure), then the bov would be able to hold more boost than stock. The reason for the solenoid would be for quick release operation. Yes... I know, yours is set up for quick release because it is basically a stock setup. You just moved the boost source from the bottom port to a new external nipple; nothing else. The solenoid would allow for same quick operation you have now, but would also allow it to hold high boost.
I boost leak tested my modded valve with an open boost reference to the new nipple and it leaks at 21 psi, just like when it was stock. BLT with new nipple to atmosphere (same thing you would see with a solenoid when there is positive pressure being made) and it holds 40 psi during the test. Test your setup. Guarantee your valve cracks open before 25 psi.
There is a reason Dejon included an inline valve with their modded setup if you wanted the best of both worlds.
Not trying to dis your setup, but I don't want to see misinformation spread on the board. If it works for you, great! But so would a stock bov the way it's set up now.
As stated earlier, from the Dodge Garage instructions...
"A quick tip because this has come up already: The upper part of the B.O.V. MUST AT ALL TIMES be connected to a vacuum/boost source behind the throttle body that has full engine vacuum when the engine is at idle. The new port you just added MUST be hooked to the turbo's outlet barb or somewhere in the intercooling tubing for the BOV to work correctly in fast release mode. Or you could just leave the port open to outside air but you loose the fast release feature which is fun for scaring the hell out of honda drivers ;-) "
Stock control = stock location
New barb = as close to the turbo outlet as you can get