Clutches

[vr4play]

So I have been doing a lot or reading trying to decide which clutch I want to put back in my race car. I have been using an ACT 2900 with a street disc since they came out some years ago. I have been though 2 pressure plates and maybe 4 disc. When I was daily driving my auto-x car. I had to do the disc once a year or it would inevitably fail in the middle of the season. Since I built my other car I have made it 4 years and 6000 miles on the clutch. The springs always fall out of the disc. I was thinking of using the ACT pressure plate with either a cluthcnet disc or southbend clutch disc. I was also debating getting a complete southbend clutch kit. The guy I have been emailing keeps telling me how much better there kit is than ACT but I need some real feedback. SInce having a kid the time I have to work on the car has shrunk considerably. That and working on cars all day leaves no motivation for mine. I don't want to put something in and have to take it back out. Any feedback for the southbend clutch or the clutchnet clutch would be appreciated. I was going to use the FE disc with the ss pressure plate from southbend. The guy was trying to sell me on the 6 puck but I don't want a puck clutch. If I go cluchnet I would probably get the kevlar disc and use the ACT pressure plate. I have a spec kevlar kit in my dd and it drives good and I know not to launch it cause there springs have issues.

Thanks

 

[Brianawd]

If the car is mostly race car I have a quarter master twin. It just needs new discs that cost $200.
I want $400 for the clutch and it will come with new slave and 2g accumulator and braded SS line.

 

I personally like ACT and Centerforce clutches as I haven't had a real problem out of them. South Bend hasn't been so good to me since its the reason my gvr4 isn't running. I had a new southbend clutch with about 600 stop and go traffic miles on it so it should have been broke in and fine. I went to get on it just a little and it blew the springs out of it and cracked the transmission bellhousing. I'm just sharing my one bad experience with you so please don't take full judgement on one instance but note that it may not be the best choice either. I do have a fully built engine .020 over wiseco pistons, manley rods, manley valvetrain, 272/272 cams, HX35 holset, venom intake manifold, and more so I may have needed a heavier duty clutch and not realized it but at the same time I would rather the clutch blow on my car than my rearend so if having the clutch be the weaker part of the drivetrain can save you more money in the end in my opinion. Then again I've only been in the mechanic field for a couple years so if anyone can correct me please do so gently.

 

[GSX_TC]

Quoting Brianawd:
If the car is mostly race car I have a quarter master twin. It just needs new discs that cost $200.
I want $400 for the clutch and it will come with new slave and 2g accumulator and braded SS line.




What's the accumulator for?

 

[raptorWagon]

The 2g dsm accumulator allows you to slip the clutch more when using a twin disc clutch setup. More info 2g Accumulator

 

[gramkrakr89]

yeah, a twin-disc, effectively doubling the friction area... would cause it to wanna lock up quick on you, unless you had a little room for fluid expansion

 

[GSX_TC]

Damm that's pretty sweet man, do lots of people usually get that when they buy twin disc's?

 

[PreskitVR4]

CENTERFORCE DFX, FTW!!! Call and talk to Roger in Tech, he can help choose the best clutch for your setup. 928 771 8422.

 

[Spyder]

Second on the Centerforce. They are awesome!