What oil should I use?

[Nartanian]

So I think I'm getting really close to getting my gvr4... Its been a struggle. Nonetheless I want to keep it in tip top shape. I live in MN where it get pretty cold but not too cold. more like in the teens and a few times in the negatives. I want to know what the best oil is for a gvr4. Thanks

 

[Struc]

Let the floodgate of "oil religion" opinion preaching now begin! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

For a daily driver to moderately modified cars, it really doesn't matter *too* much.

I'm a strict Castrol guy, and use either 5w30 or 10w30 in the winter, and 20w50 in the summer.

 

[14bCrazy]

Ya that stuff at 7-11 sells is the same as Mobil 1. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

For what its worth. I live in Alaska and see much ofthe same temps and I use Amsoil 10-30 in everything year round and it works great. I change every 5k.

 

[Nartanian]

OK so im sure now that 10w30 is good for the cold. So 20w50 is the best for summer?

 

[icurunnin]

I am a castrol guy myself for conventional and mobil 1 for synthetic.
been thinking and going royal purple but dont know if its worth the $8.99 a pop here. Mobil is a better deal @ $24 for 5 quarts at Wally World

 

Any oil > no oil
Clean oil > dirty oil
Synthetic > conventional
After that it is all marketing based on fear and superstition.
Mike R.

 

10w30 mobil 1

 

While we're on the topic, does anyone have any thoughts on mixing oils? I'm sure that mixing different brands of the same weight is not an issue, although it's possible you won't get the full benefit of the additive package, but what about mixing different weights? I know that putting 2 qts. of 10w40 and 2 qts. of 5w30 oil in an engine won't give me 4 qts. of 7.5w35 oil, but would there be any detrimental effects on the engine by doing so? And doing this every now and then to top the car off with whatever is available to get it home is one thing, but what if someone were to make a habit of this?

 

[mikus]

Quote:
Any oil > no oil
Clean oil > dirty oil
Synthetic > conventional
After that it is all marketing based on fear and superstition.
Mike R.


Usually he says "in order of importance..." before this. Couldn't agree more, this is all 99% of people need to worry about. I quote this (thanks BTW) anytime anybody asks me about oil now.

 

[Nartanian]

I agree to. Thanks guys.

 

[G]

5w/ 30 for winter.

Quoting Nartanian:
So I think I'm getting really close to getting my gvr4... Its been a struggle. Nonetheless I want to keep it in tip top shape. I live in MN where it get pretty cold but not too cold. more like in the teens and a few times in the negatives. I want to know what the best oil is for a gvr4. Thanks

 

[CarRacer]

I run NAPA brand synthetic in my car. 5w30 in winter. Ive been told NAPA is rebranded Valvoline.

Buy a case and save a little money. You'll always need oil.

 

Quoting 9t1tsi:
10w30 mobil 1


^ same +synthetic.

 

[Brunoboy]

ive went through Syntec 10w40 to Mobile one 10W40 to Royal Purple 10w40 to Valvoline 20w50.........mmmmm valvoline isnt to bad

 

Quote:
does anyone have any thoughts on mixing oils? I'm sure that mixing different brands of the same weight is not an issue, although it's possible you won't get the full benefit of the additive package, but what about mixing different weights? I know that putting 2 qts. of 10w40 and 2 qts. of 5w30 oil in an engine won't give me 4 qts. of 7.5w35 oil, but would there be any detrimental effects on the engine by doing so? And doing this every now and then to top the car off with whatever is available to get it home is one thing, but what if someone were to make a habit of this?




Actually I think mixing viscosities comes reasonably close to blended properties pro rata.

If you are burning or leaking oil and you keep topping off the loss with fresh oil, you will over time replace most of the old oil. But some old oil may never leave and some newer oil will also be lost. So over time you will have a more or less stable mix of older and newer oil. Which may not be as bad as having no leaks and replacing all of the oil at specific intervals where prior to the oil change you have 100% old oil. The problem is that without draining and changing the oil, the filter never gets changed either.

Mike R.

 

Napa is absolutely rebranded valvoline, I worked there for two years, so I can vouch for this one. Still good oil of course and I used it for a while in all my vehicles.

 

[ApexHunter]

Not all synthetics are created equal. Many "synthetics" i.e. domestically produced castrol syntec, mobil 1 (recent change from group IV to III) etc. use a group III base which is basically highly processed conventional. While still pretty good, it is not a true synthetic although it is marketed as such. Oils such as amsoil, german castrol synthetic, redline, motul etc. use either group IV or V base and are true synthetics. I am not trying to be an expert as i am far from it, i just did a little reading on www.bobistheoilguy.com forums.

 

[Nartanian]

LOL so many choices. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif Im thinking between Mobil 1, Redline, and Castrol... which of the 3 in ur opinion or past experience make best synthetic oil? thanks for all the input btw.

 

Carquest oil is also rebranded Valvoline. If you look on the back of the bottle it even says "bottled by Ashland Oil Co." which is Valvoline's maker.

I've said this in these oil threads before, but here goes: I used 10w30 synthetic in my Talon the entire time I owned it, year round, both in Ohio winters and Texas summers. Used Mobil, Amsoil, and Valvoline at different times (mostly Valvoline). When the car got wrecked I pulled the motor and tore it down. Had 163,000 miles. Virtually no wear on the bearings. The inside of the motor was beautiful. Car was a lightly modded 16G daily driver. If your car and usage are similar I would say you couldn't do any better than Valvoline synthetic 10w30. But don't forget the other half of the equation, a good oil filter. Highly recommend Wix filters.