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what is the proper way to do a boost leak test on a galant vr4

kooter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
So I had an earlier post about turbo not spooling correctly.
I have this tester and am ready to use it.
if I am understanding this correctly that I disconnect the inlet side of the turbo strap this on
here is my question.
don't I need to plug the end that is no longer connected to the turbo ?

 
Last edited:

ktmrider

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Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
click

Look under the Intake section at the bottom ( Leak Tester ).

VFAQ should be read and re-read, it's the ABC's for our generation vehicles.
 

kooter

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Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
no just a hyundai part I work at a dealership in parts
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Make sure you regulate the air pressure being applied. Don't allow full compressor shop air to pressurize those poor tiny oil seals in the intake system. Regulate down to 20 PSI and you will be fine.
 

kooter

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Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
So just finished
put leak tester on turbo inlet and started with going up to 5 psi needle on the guage went quickly to 5 and dropped steadily back down I would say around one psi a second maybe a little faster but it went up and went down.

definately heard some hissing but it was very faint. spray bottle filled with soapy water sprayed around while.
kept the guage right around the 5 mark, tring to locate the leak. more spraying moved up to between 8 and ten on the guage and found the tiniest of little bubble




right at the top of this tube.

sorry I didn't have my camera to take pictures at the time.

So my question here and the reason for this boost test was that at around 4500 rpm the cars starts to stutter pretty bad. I was told it was a turbo leak. from what I have read and what I can tell the system is holding pressure.

other then that the car runs fine.
any new suggestions?
 

kooter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
plugs and wires have less then 2000 miles. They were done right before I bought the car. I have a new set of plugs and wires from mitsu that I will put on in about two weeks. so we shall see how that goes.currently I only drive the car about 20 miles every other week. trying to do all the repairs before I make it my daily driver.
 

Dan D

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2001
Messages
1,171
Location
Brownsburg, IN
Worn out tps can also cause a hesitation similar to faulty wires. If you have a logger, check and make sure the throttle position is linear and smooth through the range.
 

1990ggsxnj

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
I was going to say that as well but he states it happens when it is WOT at a specific RPM and goes away if he increases throttle slowly. Sounds like that might rule it out (never completely until it's resolved though).
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
+1 on tps sensor mines bad and is causing studdering at higher rpms..
And if you keep your foot on it slowly its somtimes doesent studder..
 

dsmtalontsi95

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Joined
Dec 5, 2005
Messages
1,222
Location
Glenville, PA
It looks like you have the breather tube circle. Is the one leaking the large one coming from the valve cover or was it one of the ones on the throtle body? Did you follow the instructions on VFAQ (talking about turning the motor by hand)?
 
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