blacksheep
Well-known member
Does RRE still make them? I really do like them and wouldnt mind having a set. Decent price to boot. I wish they made a front bar as well...
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RRE gvr4 rear strut tower brace....
- Thread starter blacksheep
- Start date
DSMGVR4
Well-known member
I believe they used to make the front ones...but the Greddy front bar was already reasonably priced, RRE stopped making them. Thats what they told me about 3 yrs ago when I asked that same question: If they made a rear, why not the front? I still don't have any bars and its been 4 years and 3 GVR4s later. John
Or you could get some Whiteline ones. I think dsmparts.com or something carries them.
blacksheep
Well-known member
the RRE bar is much beefier, Jon! I liked the grey powdercoated look as well...
I went the cheap route Rear bar for a 2g and front bar for a 1g, the 2g for it's ends the 1g for the bar. You can't really find cheap ass 1g rear tower braces on ebay, but the two combine cost me less that $30.
quote:Originally posted by blacksheep:
the RRE bar is much beefier, Jon! I liked the grey powdercoated look as well... How do you say this? Have you put a car with each bar on a chassis jig back to back, to measure the increase in stiffness? Or just by looking at it? Not trying to be a punk here, I really do want to know. I've never seen a RRE bar in person, but I about shat my pants when I unpacked my whiteline bar. That thing is seriously beefy. Hmm, I remember my roommate speaking of a thread on HondaTech where someone did an informal testing of several aftermarket bars. They put them on blocks a constant distance from each other, had the same person (same weight) stand in the exact center of each bar, and then measured the distance between the bar and the ground. The bars that were highest off the ground were declared to be the stiffest.
the RRE bar is much beefier, Jon! I liked the grey powdercoated look as well... How do you say this? Have you put a car with each bar on a chassis jig back to back, to measure the increase in stiffness? Or just by looking at it? Not trying to be a punk here, I really do want to know. I've never seen a RRE bar in person, but I about shat my pants when I unpacked my whiteline bar. That thing is seriously beefy. Hmm, I remember my roommate speaking of a thread on HondaTech where someone did an informal testing of several aftermarket bars. They put them on blocks a constant distance from each other, had the same person (same weight) stand in the exact center of each bar, and then measured the distance between the bar and the ground. The bars that were highest off the ground were declared to be the stiffest.
Hertz
Staff member
What does that prove? I could run 10 strands of 100lb test braided polyfluorocarbon fishing line across two blocks and you could stand on it and it would barely deflect -- doesn't mean that it is the stiffest, or would make for a strut bar.
blacksheep
Well-known member
Ryan and Jon - you both can duke it out.
I meant to say beefy looking. It was just a statement. I want beefier looks, OK Jon?
I meant to say beefy looking. It was just a statement. I want beefier looks, OK Jon?
"I went the cheap route Rear bar for a 2g and front bar for a 1g, the 2g for it's ends the 1g for the bar. You can't really find cheap ass 1g rear tower braces on ebay, but the two combine cost me less that $30."
ok turbogalant im a little lost here are you saying i can use the rear bar mounts from a 2nd gen and the front bar from a 1st gen to make a gvr4 rear bar.
hector
ok turbogalant im a little lost here are you saying i can use the rear bar mounts from a 2nd gen and the front bar from a 1st gen to make a gvr4 rear bar.
hector
quote:Originally posted by hecdws:
"I went the cheap route Rear bar for a 2g and front bar for a 1g, the 2g for it's ends the 1g for the bar. You can't really find cheap ass 1g rear tower braces on ebay, but the two combine cost me less that $30."
ok turbogalant im a little lost here are you saying i can use the rear bar mounts from a 2nd gen and the front bar from a 1st gen to make a gvr4 rear bar.
hector
That's what I'm saying, you need the rear 2g bar for the mounting brackets for the struts , but since the 2g's are wider in the rear you need to get a front 1g bar to fit between the strut towers. I basically crossed my fingers when I bought this setup, seemed like it would logically work and it did, but WOW is it a tight fit but that just means it can't deflect as much.
"I went the cheap route Rear bar for a 2g and front bar for a 1g, the 2g for it's ends the 1g for the bar. You can't really find cheap ass 1g rear tower braces on ebay, but the two combine cost me less that $30."
ok turbogalant im a little lost here are you saying i can use the rear bar mounts from a 2nd gen and the front bar from a 1st gen to make a gvr4 rear bar.
hector
quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
What does that prove? I could run 10 strands of 100lb test braided polyfluorocarbon fishing line across two blocks and you could stand on it and it would barely deflect -- doesn't mean that it is the stiffest, or would make for a strut bar. That is because with 10 strands of line you are basically cutting you body weight to 1/10 of its weight do to that deflection would be minimal. Testing deflection of a metal is a valid way of measuring stiffness IF you step on a waterballon it will deflect so far that it will breach the intergrity of it's self if you step on a brick it will do nothing hense a brick is sronger than a water balloon. Take a stock sway bar stand in the center of it it will defect x number of mm stand in the center of a whiteline 26mm bar it will deflect y inches and guess what x>y. Same idea as standing on a iron rod and and iron building beam.
What does that prove? I could run 10 strands of 100lb test braided polyfluorocarbon fishing line across two blocks and you could stand on it and it would barely deflect -- doesn't mean that it is the stiffest, or would make for a strut bar. That is because with 10 strands of line you are basically cutting you body weight to 1/10 of its weight do to that deflection would be minimal. Testing deflection of a metal is a valid way of measuring stiffness IF you step on a waterballon it will deflect so far that it will breach the intergrity of it's self if you step on a brick it will do nothing hense a brick is sronger than a water balloon. Take a stock sway bar stand in the center of it it will defect x number of mm stand in the center of a whiteline 26mm bar it will deflect y inches and guess what x>y. Same idea as standing on a iron rod and and iron building beam.
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