trunks
Well-known member
Why metal? You'll need to make sure the block is level too if you go that route and I thought a oem hg was just fine - even on high boost cars with l19s /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
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Jason G.
Well-known member
Most times, the block is good.
Either head gasket is ok.
Either head gasket is ok.
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dsmkid
Well-known member
If you are planning on doing mods, getting into the boost often and want piece of mind, do a mitsu 4 layer metal head gasket and arp headstuds. Replace your belt tensioner while your at it. You have nothing to lose by doing these things (other than a little extra money 100 for the gasket and another 100 give or take for the studs) just to gain. You will not regret it. Let me know what you decide.
thecman02
Well-known member
Take a square and put it up to your head surface and check for warpage.
Barnes
Well-known member
Couple things to note here;
1)No one has suggested a root cause analysis. Why did the head gasket fail? My buddy had a problem like this years ago. He kept blowing headgaskets. Mixing coolant etc. Turns out his block was warped. He didn't know it because he never checked. Moral of the story, check your block AND your head for flatness. Are there any other possible causes of this headgasket failure? Did you knowingly overheat the car?
2)Unless this guy is running LOTS of boost, the stock HG with ARPs should be plenty.
3)Notice, he already has ARP head studs.
4)Do not check the flatness of any engine component with any old square. You need an actual machinist flat bar to check this. You probably don't own one. A machine shop does.
5)From everything I've read a Mitsubishi MLS headgasket requires both the head and block have a certain surface finish to seal effectively. Unless he takes both the block and the head in for surfacing, he won't achieve this finish at home.
1)No one has suggested a root cause analysis. Why did the head gasket fail? My buddy had a problem like this years ago. He kept blowing headgaskets. Mixing coolant etc. Turns out his block was warped. He didn't know it because he never checked. Moral of the story, check your block AND your head for flatness. Are there any other possible causes of this headgasket failure? Did you knowingly overheat the car?
2)Unless this guy is running LOTS of boost, the stock HG with ARPs should be plenty.
3)Notice, he already has ARP head studs.
4)Do not check the flatness of any engine component with any old square. You need an actual machinist flat bar to check this. You probably don't own one. A machine shop does.
5)From everything I've read a Mitsubishi MLS headgasket requires both the head and block have a certain surface finish to seal effectively. Unless he takes both the block and the head in for surfacing, he won't achieve this finish at home.
fuel
Well-known member
The fact that the number #1 cylinder combustion chamber and piston crown is cleaner than the others suggests that coolant was getting into there 'cleaning' up the carbon. Combustion gasses would then in turn have escaped into the cooling system and over-pressurising the system hence the bulging hoses - though you would have thought the radiator cap valve would have opened and just pushed coolant into the over-flow bottle all the time.
For 75 bucks I will be having the head resurfaced, just to be on the safe side. I have never heard of a cast iron block being warped with 16g 20psi arp's and a few bolt ons. I should probably get some sort reward for achieving that. So I guess I will check the block.
without gasket
without gasket
without gasket
without gasket
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Jason G.
Well-known member
If the block is warped, it likely did so from overheating not boost.
As Barnes said, get a machinist's flat bar and your feeler gauge to verify.
FTR, after checking the block, I clean the surface really well in preparation for an MLS HG.
As Barnes said, get a machinist's flat bar and your feeler gauge to verify.
FTR, after checking the block, I clean the surface really well in preparation for an MLS HG.
dsmkid
Well-known member
I did a direct replacement on a completely stock block car with a 4 layer mitsu gasket and put down over 400whp and daily drove on it for 2 years, never any prblems. I did not resurface anything. This is why I recomend this gasket.
donniekak
Well-known member
Quoting dsmkid:
I did a direct replacement on a completely stock block car with a 4 layer mitsu gasket and put down over 400whp and daily drove on it for 2 years, never any prblems. I did not resurface anything. This is why I recomend this gasket.
Yes, but this car has already blown a gasket, so without re-surfacing the head, and block, it probably wont seal in the area where it has already blown. If you are going to go through the hassle of taking the block to a machine shop, get it oringed and forget having gasket issues forever. MLS gaskets aren't really all that anyway. It's very easy for combustion gasses to get in between the layers, as they usually have no sealing grommet.
click
I did a direct replacement on a completely stock block car with a 4 layer mitsu gasket and put down over 400whp and daily drove on it for 2 years, never any prblems. I did not resurface anything. This is why I recomend this gasket.
Yes, but this car has already blown a gasket, so without re-surfacing the head, and block, it probably wont seal in the area where it has already blown. If you are going to go through the hassle of taking the block to a machine shop, get it oringed and forget having gasket issues forever. MLS gaskets aren't really all that anyway. It's very easy for combustion gasses to get in between the layers, as they usually have no sealing grommet.
click
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I'm running Ross .020 over 8.5:1 pistons/rings/pins, and eagle rods. I am also running arp hardware, as yall know. I am definitely having the head resurfaced and I will scrape down the block with a blade and slapping a straight edge to it to make sure it is perfect; which I assume it will be.
My question to all you is simply what head gasket should I run?
Cosmetic MLS (75bucks here cosmetic mls ) or a
4 layer Ralliart (150bucks here 4 layer oem mls )
or a basic Organic hg for 75bucks ....I probably will use copper spray with my final choice.
also now that I have my intake what would be the best way to clean out all the gunk?
My question to all you is simply what head gasket should I run?
Cosmetic MLS (75bucks here cosmetic mls ) or a
4 layer Ralliart (150bucks here 4 layer oem mls )
or a basic Organic hg for 75bucks ....I probably will use copper spray with my final choice.
also now that I have my intake what would be the best way to clean out all the gunk?
Jason G.
Well-known member
Did you check JNZ for the composite? 75 seems a bit high.
fuel
Well-known member
lol @ 'Cosmetic'. It's not make up. Brand is called 'Cometic'.
glad to get a laugh....................anywho, what head gasket people. help!
GSX_TC
Well-known member
OEM head gasket will work just fine
Terry Posten
Well-known member
Yep, stay stock.
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turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting Barnes:
5)From everything I've read a Mitsubishi MLS headgasket requires both the head and block have a certain surface finish to seal effectively. Unless he takes both the block and the head in for surfacing, he won't achieve this finish at home.
When I pulled the head off 1051 waaaaay back in '03, I had it rebuilt/resurfaced. I cleaned off the block surface as best I could with one of those paint removal grinder wheels chucked into a cordless drill and then cleaned everything really well. I sprayed a light coat of Hylomar onto the MLS surfaces and it's been on and taking 30psi ever since. Just a data point.
5)From everything I've read a Mitsubishi MLS headgasket requires both the head and block have a certain surface finish to seal effectively. Unless he takes both the block and the head in for surfacing, he won't achieve this finish at home.
When I pulled the head off 1051 waaaaay back in '03, I had it rebuilt/resurfaced. I cleaned off the block surface as best I could with one of those paint removal grinder wheels chucked into a cordless drill and then cleaned everything really well. I sprayed a light coat of Hylomar onto the MLS surfaces and it's been on and taking 30psi ever since. Just a data point.
MitchooO
Well-known member
I am sure more people than me have seen in the pics exactly where it was coming into the cylinder in the last set of pictures. I can see the gasket material is a bit different in the path from the water jacket hole and the cylinder, I would be sure to check in that area the most for any warping issue. Every time a shop pulls a head off an engine for a head gasket, Myself, Or another shop, It is always properly checked for the block warping, and the head is machined flat to be sure the problem does not happen again. I do just about 3 of the Ford f series from 03-07 with the 6.0 diesel engine a month at the shop I work for (engines known for horribly warped heads and blocks from poorly designed engines and head gaskets) The best way to have a good piece of mind is to do it right the first time! I hope it was just time for a head gasket and you don't run into this problem in the future when it is all said and done!
Ok.....i replaced the head gasket with a mls torqued it down on some arp headstuds. I threw in a new timing belt and water pump.
I just started it after a long few weeks and the upper and lower hoses are still inflated, it seems like the car is going to overheat.
I just started it after a long few weeks and the upper and lower hoses are still inflated, it seems like the car is going to overheat.
fuel
Well-known member
did you get the head re-surfaced?
