recommend me an awesome slimfan...

[turbowop]

C'mon, guys. This is 1051. You don't really think my radiator fins are filled with junk do you? Kinda hard to win carshows with a bugged up and weed filled radiator. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsdunno.gif

That, and the AC condensor in front of it is clean as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Barnes]

I seem to have found a fairly clear explination of why you should use distilled water in coolant systems. Distilled water is much less electrically conductive than water with minerals. (I.E. less of an electrolyte) It is still not zero, but much less. Our coolant passes through several types of metal materials. The block is iron, head is aluminum, radiator and heater core are brass, and various bolts and other parts are steel. When metals of different enough electro potentials are in contact with each other via an electrolyte like water, galvanic corrosion can occur. Although it appears that even distilled water will not stay at it's original level of electrical conductivity. I think this is why antifreeze that you buy contains other chemicals that appear to buffer the changes in thew water and reduce the free ions in the coolant, thus preventing corrosion.

On another note, I was under the impression that water pumps are made to run with some antifreeze to provide a level of lubrication of the seal.

 

[toybreaker]

Quoting turbowop:
C'mon, guys. This is 1051. You don't really think my radiator fins are filled with junk do you? Kinda hard to win carshows with a bugged up and weed filled radiator. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsdunno.gif

That, and the AC condensor in front of it is clean as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



This thread stopped being about your car quite some time ago /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif



My post was for all the other folks looking for answers/solutions to their problems. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


When the topic veers into esoteric chemistry, I don;t have much to add.


All I have is real world hands on experience solving these problems on customers cars.


... I've learned it ain;t even worth typing that out on the intrawebz,

... people don;t want experience, they want "knowledge:

... All I have is happy customers /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[Barnes]

Esoteric chemistry?

 

[Brianawd]

Here is what I know.

My galant would run 10-15degs cooler when running water+waterweter. In town 85+deg day the car would idle at 190-192degs Once up and driving I would see 180-185degs. I also never saw a increase in temps when running the ac. (Yes my almost 600whp car still had working ac) I am a big fan of running water and weter as the car runs cooler makes more power and is better for the life of the engine.

 

[turbowop]

What t-stat were you running, Brian? Those sound like normal temps for a 180 degree unit.

 

[toybreaker]

Quoting Brianawd:
Here is what I know.

My galant would run 10-15degs cooler when running water+waterweter. In town 85+deg day the car would idle at 190-192degs Once up and driving I would see 180-185degs. I also never saw a increase in temps when running the ac. (Yes my almost 600whp car still had working ac) I am a big fan of running water and weter as the car runs cooler makes more power and is better for the life of the engine.



^^^ nailed it!

 

[Brianawd]

Quote:
What t-stat were you running, Brian? Those sound like normal temps for a 180 degree unit.



180deg. It what the car should have come with from the factory to begin with. Funny all the little things we do to 1gs 2gs and galant vr4 to make more power like adding a 16g 550 injectors and front mount is the same thing mitu did to the evo. Evo comes from the factory with a 180deg stat.

 

[toybreaker]

Quoting Barnes:
Esoteric chemistry?



... didn;t mean you specifically, Jon. (sorry if you took it that way)





I've been wrenching for a long time, seen these problems come every summer

Even a dumbass like me learns a thing or two along the way.



Before google came along and made everybody an expert, we used to actually diagnose each and every car for it's particular problem, and we prided ourselves on fixing the problem, not treating the symptoms.

... most cooling system problems are easily diagnosed with an infrared pyrometer and some common sense. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif





Guess it's just a pet peeve that few folks on the intrawebz address a few of the root causes that can be easily remedied before heading into the esoterica like whether to use de-ionised or distilled "dihydrogen monoxide".



... they miss the forest for the trees


edit
Just did a quick google search on the topic and came up with a couple of hundred pages on the topic of which water to use /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

I'd rather check the inny/outty temps at the radiator and a few other select spots in the system so I can fix the problem /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif




It's a simple thermal equation;

"x" amount of thermal load

"y" amount of coolant flow

"z" amount of cooling airflow

"d" delta at the radiator

... solve ...



It's important to note that, no mtter what the 'stat rating is, once it's fully open, it's fully open ...

... you'll have to look elsewhere for the "solution"

 

[turbowop]

Quoting Brianawd:


180deg. It what the car should have come with from the factory to begin with. Funny all the little things we do to 1gs 2gs and galant vr4 to make more power like adding a 16g 550 injectors and front mount is the same thing mitu did to the evo. Evo comes from the factory with a 180deg stat.



Here is my problem with the lower temp t-stat: It just lowers the point at which it opens and is full open. Once temps go above that point, like say the 200 range, it's no better than a 190 as both t-stats are full open at that point and reliant on either the fan (if the car is stopped) or airflow from the car moving.

If the fan was set to come on sooner (which I think it is on cars with the 180 t-stat) it would actually work to regulate temps at or near the setting of the t-stat. I think our fans are set to come on around 203-206, which is too high for a 180 IMO, and won't work if the fan can't pull enough air, like my low quality slim fan.

 

[mitsuturbo]

I think trying one of these might be a good idea:

click

 

[turbowop]

190 on is good, 175 off is too low. It would be on all the time after it hits 190 with a 180 t-stat. I think most aftermarket fan switches are like that. You have to shell out a decent amount of money if you want a quality adjustable fan controller.

 

[JNR]

I have a TCI fan controller on my chevelle that is adjustable from 140 F to 250 F, IIRC and it was ~$75 (although I didn't pay that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )...the problem I'm having a hard time finding is a good relay for the fan, since the fan draws 40 AMPS running and ~100 amps startup /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif (5,000+ cfm)

Anyway, I mention this, as a good controller shouldn't be more than $65-70 if you shop around; which is well worth it to not be stuck on one temp. + this one activates A/C (when turned on) and will run dual fans, etc.

 

[turbowop]

ECMlink needs to add an output for fan control for 1g setups.

 

[toybreaker]

Quoting JNR:
...the problem I'm having a hard time finding is a good relay for the fan, since the fan draws 40 AMPS running and ~100 amps startup /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif (5,000+ cfm)








boom, baby

Easily handles 70 amp continuous, and has built in anti-flyback protection.

Got a bunch of these running around with zero issues.

If you would like, I can build you this exact set-up. (or whatever configuration you would like )

These relays are the real deal.

The contacts are rated for continuous duty electrical motors with half again more current draw than your set-up takes. (the relay legs on the power side are twice the size of standard h.o. bosch style relays

... like I said, zero issues /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I can also pin up a cool guy Deutsch connectors to make future servicing easier.


Pm me for details. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[turbofonz]

Quoting turbowop:
ECMlink needs to add an output for fan control for 1g setups.



It would be awesome, but sadly the ECU doesn't have control on it.

 

[turbowop]

I know that the ECU can't control the fans on 1g cars, but if they did an output similar to the FPS and EGR solenoid outputs, and added temperature control parameters, it could probably work. Maybe?

 

[alansupra94]

I know for AEM EMS, you can use a low side output to control the fans via a relay. I am sure you could wire something up with DSMLink.

 

[iLLeffeKt vr-4]

I don't know if you saw the setup I used to have in my galant before I sold it but I didn't have any issues with the spal fan which didn't have a shroud. Previous setup was the stock radiator with a pusher on the driver's side and a puller on the passenger side, also both with no shrouds.

click

 

[turbowop]

So I installed the new fan July 4th which required me to remove the radiator. So I reinstalled it and burped the cooling system again. I also realized that the low speed resistor was being finicky. I checked the one on 503 as well for the hell of it and saw that it didn't work at all, so I removed the resistor on both cars and looped the wires. Now when the fan first comes on, it comes on at full speed which I'm okay with. I just did away with the low speed setting basically. I'd like to add that this helped AC performance on both cars as well. Very noticeable colder output.

Anyway...I am now seeing much more consistent coolant temps, but I'm curious. Does ECMlink and Pocketlogger differ in temperature readings? I wanted to test this theory, but with ECMlink installed in the ECU, Pocketlogger doesn't seem to want to work. While my coolant temps are more consistent than they were with the old fan and air bubbles in the system, they are still higher than I'm used to seeing when I used to log the car with Pocketlogger. With Pocketlogger, the car would stay between 196-203. With ECMlink, I'm seeing temps between 200-210 with 206 being the norm. Could it be that the car has been running the same coolant temps the whole time, but I'm just seeing a difference due to two separate datalogging devices reading the temps that the ECU sees differently? I drove around tonight after work in 95 degree ambient temps and never saw coolant temps higher than 210, even with AC on. Car runs great under cruise and WOT conditions and doesn't push any coolant at all under full throttle. If this is normal, I'm okay with it. I just wanna make sure it is.

BTW, here are some pics of the FAL installed: