curtis
Well-known member
Well should work fine but please build some kind of bracket system and not use those damn through the core zip ties. The idiot that designed those I'm sure has stock in radiator companies.
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recommend me an awesome slimfan...
- Thread starterturbowop
- Start date
BluFalcon
Well-known member
I'm using a bolt on FAL radiator fan for a Civic in my GVR4. FAL Fan Honda Civic It's a fiberglass bodied unit, with an integral shroud. Nice, compact unit. The brackets that come with the fan fit on the GVR4 radiator with a bit of trimming, and all I had to do was make a jumper plug for the GVR-4 fan plug to mate up with the Honda plug on the fan. Almost a bolt on operation, very easy to do.
One issue with the fan though, is the cheap rubber insulator that they use to provide a barrier between the shroud and the back of the radiator. Over time, this material starts to come apart and will get sucked into the fan, jamming the blades and fry the motor. Ask me how I know..... Bought another one, and installed it in the car. Car handles Texas heat and summers with no issues and I have enough clearance to run a larger intake pipe.
One issue with the fan though, is the cheap rubber insulator that they use to provide a barrier between the shroud and the back of the radiator. Over time, this material starts to come apart and will get sucked into the fan, jamming the blades and fry the motor. Ask me how I know..... Bought another one, and installed it in the car. Car handles Texas heat and summers with no issues and I have enough clearance to run a larger intake pipe.
turbowop
Well-known member
That fan is almost identical to the one I ordered. Good to hear it works and fits well. Do you have any pics of your setup?
BluFalcon
Well-known member
I'll see if I can get some pics for you after work today.
blacksheep
Well-known member
turbowop
Well-known member
Oh, damn. My bad. Had I thought about it, I would have purchased it from you guys. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
blacksheep
Well-known member
No worries, brotha. Just keep us in mind, I will do the best I can to get you a deal...
BluFalcon
Well-known member
Mark,
Here's those pics. Sorry about the quality, but all I've got is my cell phone camera. Fan fits perfectly after trimming the top bracket, and provides plenty of clearance. Just requires some rewiring, and a little work, but it adapts well for use on the GVR-4.
Here's those pics. Sorry about the quality, but all I've got is my cell phone camera. Fan fits perfectly after trimming the top bracket, and provides plenty of clearance. Just requires some rewiring, and a little work, but it adapts well for use on the GVR-4.
Brianawd
Well-known member
Its summer time. Dump the coolant and run water and waterweter. 100% water with waterweter does a much better job then a 50/50 mix. Glycol does not help cool a motor it only keeps the water from freezing.
Ethylene glycol raises the boiling point of water, but depending on the (cap) system pressure, he'll probably be alright with DISTILLED water, as it is probably the best thing you can run (higher heat transfer rate) + it won't corrode aluminum like glycol does. I'd say run it too, so long as you're not boiling over water, although I'd say if you have 16 psi system pressure, that'd be ~250 F at sea level so you should be fine.
Barnes
Well-known member
Since when does etheylene glycol corrode aluminum? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
turbowop
Well-known member
While I do realize that water and/or water wetter does work better than a glycol mixture, that isn't the issue. Temps are fine with airflow thru the radiator while moving, and crappy when in traffic. That points to a fan and/or shroud issue. I'll know better after installing the new shrouded fan, which should show up tomorrow.
Also, I think that ECMlink shows higher temps than Pocketlogger. I've been using Pocketlogger for over a decade now, so while the car runs the same temps it always has, I now realize they're higher than I want them to be. I know this because the fans come on at a higher temp shown via link, yet my dash gauge, while inaccurate, is still consistant with readings it has shown for years. I guess I should fully test this by logging with ECMlink and then plugging in Pocketlogger right after unplugging my laptop for ECMlink.
Also, I think that ECMlink shows higher temps than Pocketlogger. I've been using Pocketlogger for over a decade now, so while the car runs the same temps it always has, I now realize they're higher than I want them to be. I know this because the fans come on at a higher temp shown via link, yet my dash gauge, while inaccurate, is still consistant with readings it has shown for years. I guess I should fully test this by logging with ECMlink and then plugging in Pocketlogger right after unplugging my laptop for ECMlink.
Quoting Barnes:
Since when does etheylene glycol corrode aluminum? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Ever look at an aluminum thermostat housing? However, some OTC coolants do contain additives that help prevent corrosion and especially if you don't use pure water.
Mark, have you hooked up a mechanical temp. gauge to see what your actual temps are?
Since when does etheylene glycol corrode aluminum? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Ever look at an aluminum thermostat housing? However, some OTC coolants do contain additives that help prevent corrosion and especially if you don't use pure water.
Mark, have you hooked up a mechanical temp. gauge to see what your actual temps are?
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Brianawd
Well-known member
Its not the glycol causing the aluminum to corrode. It caused by the 50% water in the system turning acidc. Thats why your should used distilled water in your cooling system.
Perhaps that is true...I also think that when people use to much % glycol they run into problems and esp. if they don't change it out, as there are other materials it passes thru like iron, copper, etc...especially when used with tap/contaminated water, etc.
So yeah, perhaps on its own it doesn't corrode aluminum if we're talking antifreeze that has additives (pure ethyl glycol does nothing to prevent corrosion, afaik)...
I've just seen some *nasty* damage on aluminum intake manifolds on SBC's for instance that also used iron heads, copper/brass radiators and the wrong % of antifreeze withwho knows how many miles and what sort of water.
So yeah, perhaps on its own it doesn't corrode aluminum if we're talking antifreeze that has additives (pure ethyl glycol does nothing to prevent corrosion, afaik)...
I've just seen some *nasty* damage on aluminum intake manifolds on SBC's for instance that also used iron heads, copper/brass radiators and the wrong % of antifreeze withwho knows how many miles and what sort of water.
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turbowop
Well-known member
I thought distilled water was to be used for keeping minerals out of the system since they can cause build up over time. I think even distilled water can become acidic or at least corrode the cooling system if a strong enough mixture of glycol isn't used. The glycol is for anti-corrosion, lubrication of the pump, and higher boiling point and lower freezing point.
No, I don't have a mechanical temp gauge. I've always used the ECU temp sensor to monitor temps via Pocketlogger or now, ECMlink.
No, I don't have a mechanical temp gauge. I've always used the ECU temp sensor to monitor temps via Pocketlogger or now, ECMlink.
Distilled water has no minerals in it, so it's probably used to keep anything 'foreign' from entering the system which could accelerate corrosion.
Well, imagine the oem sender should be accurate enough for reference temps...was curious how you were getting the temps.
Well, imagine the oem sender should be accurate enough for reference temps...was curious how you were getting the temps.
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
It's worth noting that problems with cooling a vehicle at low speeds can have many causes.
^^^ This is by far and large the biggest one that most folks never consider.
They'll bolt on the biggest/baddest fan they can, and leave the core filled with crap that impedes the airflow.
Back flushing the core with a stream of water will remove the vast majority of this blockage and lower the load on the system considerably!
Be sure to backflush the a/c condensor as well.
Straightening the fins will help a small amount, (but it's tedious as hell.)
Just this simple step has helped every vehicle achieve lower coolant temps and cut the fan cycling down considerably.
... and it's free! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
^^^ This is by far and large the biggest one that most folks never consider.
They'll bolt on the biggest/baddest fan they can, and leave the core filled with crap that impedes the airflow.
Back flushing the core with a stream of water will remove the vast majority of this blockage and lower the load on the system considerably!
Be sure to backflush the a/c condensor as well.
Straightening the fins will help a small amount, (but it's tedious as hell.)
Just this simple step has helped every vehicle achieve lower coolant temps and cut the fan cycling down considerably.
... and it's free! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Barnes
Well-known member
For the record:
Also, Toybreak:
You make an EXCELLENT point. When I was doing a bunch of maintenance on my '98 Camry with 200k miles at the time I did this. However the only reason I washed the radiator core was due to all the bugs. However when it came time to actually wash the core, I was AMAZED at how much sand/dirt/grit came out. I had to give my driveway a serious cleaning after that.
Also, Toybreak:
You make an EXCELLENT point. When I was doing a bunch of maintenance on my '98 Camry with 200k miles at the time I did this. However the only reason I washed the radiator core was due to all the bugs. However when it came time to actually wash the core, I was AMAZED at how much sand/dirt/grit came out. I had to give my driveway a serious cleaning after that.
