Question on disassemble of FP3065 turbo

[stealthtt24]

Heres where im at now on a FP 3065, removed both housings and trying to get this 90 degree fitting in. Will snap ring pliers get that metal piece off or am I SOL? Thanks, mark

 

[grocery_getter]

I am almost positive that you are using the wrong oil fittings and fittings combination. There is another type of oil fitting that will clear the compressor back plate.

 

[stealthtt24]

I'm retarded, its the water return line, sorry. But it seems like everyone has been telling me I am using the wrong fittings so I'm going tomorrow to fix this problem.

 

[Garage_Defeat]

Why not run a banjo setup?

-Dan

 

[CutlassJim]

Quote:
Why not run a banjo setup?




+1

 

[Rausch]

Maybe a straight fitting and then a 90* swivel hose end?

 

[JNR]

To remove the compressor housing, you can either use snap ring pliers, or do it the home mechanic way and use two modified nails and a pair of pliers (that's actually how I got mine off and on, lol) /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/grin.gif [edit - however, IIRC the wheel has to be removed and make sure you mark them, or get it re-balanced]

Is that fully tightened? You'd have to tighten it another 1/2 turn or so to clear it and would it then be upside down (hard to tell which is up there)?

 

[BluFalcon]

You won't have to remove the compressor wheel. Remove the snap ring and the compressor cover backing plate and the cartridge will separate from each other. I used a metric to AN straight fitting with a crush washer underneath it on my 3052 water lines. if you want, I can post up pics of my water line setup since the turbo is off the car right now.

 

Guys, I think he is going to have to pull the wheel off. I have seen several turbo's I have taken apart when you pull the compressor wheel off there is usually four bolts that hold the back housing onto the cartridge. Make sure you mark where the wheel is in conjuction with the shaft so the balance will not be affected when you reassemble it. Also make sure that the threads are standard and not reversed, you should be able to look at the end where its threaded and tell. When you reassemble, make sure you call someone that would know the proper torque specs and ask what locktite they recommend. Hope this helps you out a bit.

 

[JNR]

Good info and I guess they all vary, 'cause mine only had the snap ring holding the compressor housing to the center section and the clocking was ground off or something, cause it can be orientated any way of 360 degrees (the exhaust turbine side has the key nipple still)

If you pull the shaft out, be careful when you put it back in, as it's really easy to score the bearing(s) inside and a pain to get it to 'lock' back in (mine was, at least).

However, if you can avoid pulling the wheel off, do that, IMO, to avoid any potential headaches of not re-aligning (for balnce), etc.

 

He shouldn't have to pull the shaft out. I guess I should have told him that, thanks for bringing it up.

 

[slugsgomoo]

i would buy a different fitting and do a straight and then put the 90 on that rather than take the turbo apart /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/uhh.gif

 

^^Or that^^ Im just answering the question that he asked.

 

[Garage_Defeat]

Quote:
Why not run a banjo setup?




When I had the FP3065 I modified my stock lines to fit. For the return line (u line) cut the line in the middle (so that you still have the flared end on one side and banjo on the other) and extend it with high temp silicone/rubber tubing. The coolant feed for the stock location needs to be bent but should work too similar to stock.

-Dan

 

[stealthtt24]

Thanks guys for all the advice, I took the turbo to the shop and they had a straight fitting go into a 90 degree fitting, im going to put the turbo back together and take pictures in about 30 minutes.

 

[GVR-4]

Quote:
i would buy a different fitting and do a straight and then put the 90 on that rather than take the turbo apart /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/uhh.gif



+1

The compressor cover has already been removed in that photo and to get that backing plate off the CHRA, you will need to remove the comp wheel (which is a bad idea). I have worked as a measurement technician at BorgWarner Turbosystems and if that were my turbo I'd use a different fitting rather than take it apart further.

 

This is what you need...

 

[grocery_getter]

Jesse supplied the right pictures and I supplied the right answer in the first reply above. If you even have to take the compressor housing off to install an oil line fitting. You need to:
a. Realize that that the idea of taking apart the entire turbo JUST to put an oil line fitting on it is absurd.
b. Stop, take a breath, look at the situation and analyzed it better
c. Get or buy the right fittings to do the job
d. Step back, put the tool down and paid someone else to do the job

Half on the answer on this thread is so off the wall, perhaps you guys forget this is STILL the tech section.

 

[stealthtt24]

Jesse, that is EXACTLY what I got from the store, sorry I've been lazy and haven't posted pictures.

 

Nice! I think the fittings that go into the turbo were about $17 each and the 90* swivel fittings I purchased way too long ago to remember what they cost. I think the 2 lines were about $100 so all in all I thing about $150 went into the water lines. You'll have to angle the rear fitting towards the drivers side to clearance the balance shaft in the front of the block. That's where the banjo setup is nice, they don't stick out as much.