I have the Galant "Aluminum Race" style radiator, and yes, it is likely the same radiator made by one company but marketed all over Ebay and other sites.
The fan mounting tabs are much further out or away from the core, as I found out from installation of a factory fan shroud in my C53a. I used the factory 2/3" shroud and it didn't come nearly flush with the face of the core, not even close. Essentially the core, if you roughly draw line through the middle, and now take into account it is "X" millimeters thicker, now pushes every aspect of getting things fitted to it, all out of whack.
The radiator cap fitment is now quite elevated (to the point because of the radiator being taller) and in the case of my car - required I trim the hood support webbing, because it now sat so high. I could not simply drop the lower radiator support straps, as my North-South subframe support would require a knotch to clear the base of the radiator. This was in comparison to stock high performance C53A radiator that came with my car (thickest OEM core I have measured yet) and having also run a CU233 (IIRC the core package number for Galant radiators) setup, that was thinner corewise than the C53A model, but identical fan and locator pin fitment in every way to the C53A radiator.
Yes, I also had to retap the lower thermal fan switch fitting too and that tap was not cheap! The O-ring that came with the block off cap for the bung on the all aluminum radiator was also flimsy and was made with substandard rubber stuff. I would not have lasted long! Also of note, the radiator cap is one of two styles - same twist on top and diameter of the internal neck area, BUT there are two depths available. I don't know a code difference to mention here but Asian caps have two depths, so be aware of this phenomenon. Whatever cap fits our cars from the factory IS NOT the same depth as the cap for the race aluminum radiators. You have to use the cap they supply or find another quality cap in that depth to match.
If you are still using a full size radiator in the factory positions, it will push a factory fan or thick fan that much further, back into, the engine bay and right at the turbo. It is considerably thicker, front to back!
I had no choice as I have AC on my platform, and only so far I could wiggle the condenser forward, into a new slightly slanted position.
In theory, a stock aluminum radiator and a properly functioning cooling system should do well until you move up past stock frame turbos and start using large heat radiator tubular exhaust parts and so on.
A proper OEM style thermostat at 190 degrees opening, clean cooling jackets/head ports/coolant and a GOOD fan setup, with a working resistor setup, seems to do the trick for many people here until modifications and clearance issues take them away from the mainstream hurd.
If you motor setup is nearly stock is entirely stock, then you have an insulating issue within the cooling system (block side) or you cannot pull the heat out of the radiator (corrosion on the fins/fins falling/blocked tubes) via the fans.
Lots of issues for you guys with the overly complicated resistor fan relay setup. As spatchana mentioned, there are some very good dia threads here for that.
One thing you can test is to switch on the AC and make sure you do have fan operation on however many fans are supposed to turn on when AC pressure is developped. Usually the best "instant" test of your fans without having to trick a relay or get invasive via wire probing and such.
How is your coolant/water mix? What sort of DC voltage do you get in your cooling system?