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Possibly another solution for driveline decel noise
- Thread starterLuke
- Start date
Luke
Well-known member
Terry: I would use a regular round washers, before I use one of those..
The harbor freight shims might be easier to install, but they just don't seem to be that secure, since the opening is not a full circle.
The harbor freight shims might be easier to install, but they just don't seem to be that secure, since the opening is not a full circle.
CP
Well-known member
I used some thick washers from my local NAPA.
Terry Posten
Well-known member
This might be a dumb question but you guys shimmed both sides of the bearing the same hiegth? Not front AND back bearing but both studs on same bearing?
CP
Well-known member
Both sides of the same bearing with an equal number of washers. I'd think if you only shimmed one side of a single bearing you'd introduce a lateral kink into the entire driveshaft (all 3 sections).
bazeng
Well-known member
Yes,
Both studs on the same bearing.
I only did the front and it got rid of my noise.
Both studs on the same bearing.
I only did the front and it got rid of my noise.
4orced4door
Moderator
Luke, nice job figuring this out! The wubs in 1788 used to bug me years ago, I can't believe it took this long to get a fix. Cy, I hope you get it resolved this time.
CP
Well-known member
It's not the same problem that you had. This was non-existent for 2.5 years, but has been progressively developing for the last 18 months, and is NOT a carrier bearing issue in my case now.
Terry Posten
Well-known member
Here's my story:
I installed 3 large washers on the front bearing only last night and took it for a test drive. Most of the decel noise/vibrations were gone but I now have a new drive line vibration when holding a steady speed.
I removed 2 of the 3 washers and the drive line vibration is gone but the decel vibration is back.
What a pain to do because I have to drop my exhaust to get the bearing to drop down far enough to get washers in and out.
I an going to get the body spacers from Harbor freight because that way I wont have to drop the exhaust to add/remove spacers.
Looks like we are on the right track.
Here's my theory.
The "wub wubs" surfaced after the new motor went in. It is a fresh motor that when I let the motor pull the car down in gear, wub wubs are loud and I feel it is because the motor is tighter it changes the drive line angle until the car gets low enough that the motor centers itself back in the bay. Then the noise goes away.
Changing the front bearing will compensate for this slightly, I just need to find the right spacing. And the exhaust pipe is a PAIN in the ASS.
I installed 3 large washers on the front bearing only last night and took it for a test drive. Most of the decel noise/vibrations were gone but I now have a new drive line vibration when holding a steady speed.
I removed 2 of the 3 washers and the drive line vibration is gone but the decel vibration is back.
What a pain to do because I have to drop my exhaust to get the bearing to drop down far enough to get washers in and out.
I an going to get the body spacers from Harbor freight because that way I wont have to drop the exhaust to add/remove spacers.
Looks like we are on the right track.
Here's my theory.
The "wub wubs" surfaced after the new motor went in. It is a fresh motor that when I let the motor pull the car down in gear, wub wubs are loud and I feel it is because the motor is tighter it changes the drive line angle until the car gets low enough that the motor centers itself back in the bay. Then the noise goes away.
Changing the front bearing will compensate for this slightly, I just need to find the right spacing. And the exhaust pipe is a PAIN in the ASS.
CP
Well-known member
You may have motor mount issues like I do (knock on wood). I'll let you know next week when I get the new front and rear mounts in there...
Terry Posten
Well-known member
My mounts are profain front, rear and tranny. The top driverside is stock to reduce the headlight from shaking so bad.
Also may lead to that vibration.
Also may lead to that vibration.
GVR4ZUM
Well-known member
Terry Posten
Well-known member
That is what I was talking about. I still have to go get them. I will try this next weekend.
GVR4ZUM
Well-known member
Quoting CP:
I used some thick washers from my local NAPA.
Cy, what size are those washers?
What size is the stud?
Thanks.
I used some thick washers from my local NAPA.
Cy, what size are those washers?
What size is the stud?
Thanks.
CP
Well-known member
Not really sure, sorry. I took a spare bolt with me that the nut screwed onto and used that as my gauge to get the proper sized washers. The washers are pretty thick so I didn't have to use a whole lot of them, introducing more pieces to lose under the car when messing with the CBs.
Terry Posten
Well-known member
I just got done installing more shims and have not test drove it yet but I did buy that $5.00 shim kit from Harbor Freight and it was super easy.
I put the open end of each shim into the vise and closed down the gap about 1/3 of the way to give it a better "base" and they slide right in.
That is definatly the way to go as far as "shimming" the bearings.
If anybody needs shims and is going to MOD, I can bring some. The kit has 144 in 5 thicknesses and I only used 4 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif.
PM me and let me know if you need any. But there not worth mailing for the cost of the kit.
I put the open end of each shim into the vise and closed down the gap about 1/3 of the way to give it a better "base" and they slide right in.
That is definatly the way to go as far as "shimming" the bearings.
If anybody needs shims and is going to MOD, I can bring some. The kit has 144 in 5 thicknesses and I only used 4 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif.
PM me and let me know if you need any. But there not worth mailing for the cost of the kit.
Luke
Well-known member
FYI, I have also experimented with more shims for my rear carrier bearing.
5mm shims is the right amount for me.
Thicker than this, I get driveline noise at steady-state cruising speed.
Less than this, I get the famous wub-wub decel noise.
There really is a good reason why the manual clearly stated that the amount of shims is very car specific, and you're supposed to note them whenever the driveshaft is removed. But over so many years, with so many miles on our cars, bushings/motor mounts have worn enough (or replaced with much stiffer ones) causing the original factory adjustment to be no longer accurate.
5mm shims is the right amount for me.
Thicker than this, I get driveline noise at steady-state cruising speed.
Less than this, I get the famous wub-wub decel noise.
There really is a good reason why the manual clearly stated that the amount of shims is very car specific, and you're supposed to note them whenever the driveshaft is removed. But over so many years, with so many miles on our cars, bushings/motor mounts have worn enough (or replaced with much stiffer ones) causing the original factory adjustment to be no longer accurate.
Myles
Well-known member
I donno if this helps or not but I got my car on the lift tonight. And it sounded like the noises were coming from the front half of the DS. Maybe either a U-joint or Carrier bearing. Definitely not the rear diff or lobro though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Here's a little video. Kinda hear to hear over the motor.
Here's a little video. Kinda hear to hear over the motor.
bazeng
Well-known member
I found another cause to the noise I have on the VR4.
The part on the driveshaft (YOKE), the cover was loose and was rattling away..
I managed to use a hammer and knocked it back onto the driveshaft and the rattle is gone!
The part on the driveshaft (YOKE), the cover was loose and was rattling away..
I managed to use a hammer and knocked it back onto the driveshaft and the rattle is gone!
Armitage
Well-known member
I measured my driveshaft's angles last weekend, but they were all within .5 degree of eachother, so I didn't change anything. I have very bad driveline decel noises. I also tried swapping to a different xfer case with no luck.
