Luke
Well-known member
GVR4ZUM: How about you try it ? 
The washers cannot be more than a few dollars from homedepot racing.
The washers cannot be more than a few dollars from homedepot racing.
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Possibly another solution for driveline decel noise
- Thread starterLuke
- Start date
Terry Posten
Well-known member
I bought the angle gauge from Harbor Freight for $6 and I will do this, this weekend.
I will post up after.
I will post up after.
CarRacer
Well-known member
This is on my (long) list of stuff to do.
I'm lucky enough to have access to a smart tool.
It's a digital angle finder. Obviously overkill and the angle finder you guys are using will do just fine.
For only $6, I need to get one to use for welding. I wouldn't care if I melted it or got slag on it.
I'm lucky enough to have access to a smart tool.
It's a digital angle finder. Obviously overkill and the angle finder you guys are using will do just fine.
For only $6, I need to get one to use for welding. I wouldn't care if I melted it or got slag on it.
bazeng
Well-known member
I just ordered the MITSU washers
$10.00 a set
needed 4 sets in total
A bit expensive but i couldn't be bothered with washers.
I have quite alot of decel noise on my vr4, I will let you know how I go. Fingers crossed!!
Part # for the washers is:
MB241147
$10.00 a set
needed 4 sets in total
A bit expensive but i couldn't be bothered with washers.
I have quite alot of decel noise on my vr4, I will let you know how I go. Fingers crossed!!
Part # for the washers is:
MB241147
CP
Well-known member
That PN is no good according to JNZ...either no good or NLA (I forget what he said).
CP
Well-known member
Just ordered that circular angle gauge and some 3" cutoff wheels since I couldn't justify the $7 shipping charge for a $6 item. Shimming to commence this weekend if it arrives in time.
So basically the idea is to get all the u-joints at the same angle when compared to each other? I'd think that shimming both carrier bearings down towards the ground would move the entire center section of the DS down, thus straightening the entire DS, no?
So basically the idea is to get all the u-joints at the same angle when compared to each other? I'd think that shimming both carrier bearings down towards the ground would move the entire center section of the DS down, thus straightening the entire DS, no?
Rausch
Well-known member
You want the Angle of each joint to be less that the max recommended. (I think 1* or 1.5 *), without going to perfect 0*, as that can be problematic as well, IIRC.
There may be a cumulative angle range as well, but I'm really nor sure about that with the way our D/S is laid out. (3 parts...)
I'm sure someone knows for sure....Might be in the FSM, but I don't have that at work..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
There may be a cumulative angle range as well, but I'm really nor sure about that with the way our D/S is laid out. (3 parts...)
I'm sure someone knows for sure....Might be in the FSM, but I don't have that at work..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
CP
Well-known member
I looked through it last week (printed it at work on a Saturday several years ago /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif ) and didn't see anything mentioned about shims, but it's a pretty large section in the manual. Maybe I just missed it...
CP
Well-known member
Anyone else done this yet and seen good results? I'm going to tackle it this afternoon. I just finished replacing a bad wideband O2 sensor in my downpipe, so the car is already up on stands.
Hertz
Staff member
Good luck.
Luke
Well-known member
Apparently, everyone is waiting for you to try it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Good luck Cy. Don't forget to paypal me for sharing the idea if this works for you also.. hehe..
Quoting CP:
Anyone else done this yet and seen good results? I'm going to tackle it this afternoon. I just finished replacing a bad wideband O2 sensor in my downpipe, so the car is already up on stands.
Good luck Cy. Don't forget to paypal me for sharing the idea if this works for you also.. hehe..
Quoting CP:
Anyone else done this yet and seen good results? I'm going to tackle it this afternoon. I just finished replacing a bad wideband O2 sensor in my downpipe, so the car is already up on stands.
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Quoting bazeng:
Part # for the washers is:
MB241147
You got a typo there. CAPS shows the part number to be MB241174, Spacer set, Propeller shaft, JNZ price $4.79
This is great news. I recall reading a post long ago, may have been on the NABR board, about somebody having the driveshaft carrier bearings shimmed, but I never heard any other info about it from anyone else so I was never sure that it was necessary or a real solution.
Part # for the washers is:
MB241147
You got a typo there. CAPS shows the part number to be MB241174, Spacer set, Propeller shaft, JNZ price $4.79
This is great news. I recall reading a post long ago, may have been on the NABR board, about somebody having the driveshaft carrier bearings shimmed, but I never heard any other info about it from anyone else so I was never sure that it was necessary or a real solution.
Last edited by a moderator:
Terry Posten
Well-known member
I got as far as buying the dial gauge /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
I really need to get off my ass and try this.
I will have her on stands next weekend to check all fluids for the trip to MOD. I should do it then.
I really need to get off my ass and try this.
I will have her on stands next weekend to check all fluids for the trip to MOD. I should do it then.
CP
Well-known member
Front portion of the DS had about a 1.5* angle:
Rear portion was at about 1*:
So I shimmed the front carrier bearing with another 2 washers:
So they're roughly the same now:
I didn't experience much of a change at all, so I guess front and rear motor mounts are next on the list. I was poking around in there and the rear mount seems like it'll be pretty easy to get at once the t-case is removed (I don't have an AC compressor either). I didn't look at the front, so I have no idea how difficult that will be to change.
Rear portion was at about 1*:
So I shimmed the front carrier bearing with another 2 washers:
So they're roughly the same now:
I didn't experience much of a change at all, so I guess front and rear motor mounts are next on the list. I was poking around in there and the rear mount seems like it'll be pretty easy to get at once the t-case is removed (I don't have an AC compressor either). I didn't look at the front, so I have no idea how difficult that will be to change.
Luke
Well-known member
Hi Cy: Just to satisfy my curiosity, would you mind removing the shims from your front carrier bearing, and moving the shims to the rear carrier bearing instead. For comparison, I shimmed my rear carrier bearing by 5mm.
Since making the angle equal did not help for you, I am thinking maybe deceleration causes the rear differential to tilt down, so it is necessary to lower the rear driveshaft section to match this movement.
Since making the angle equal did not help for you, I am thinking maybe deceleration causes the rear differential to tilt down, so it is necessary to lower the rear driveshaft section to match this movement.
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CP
Well-known member
Next time I've got the car up I'll move the shims. We're moving in 10 days, so it's going to have to wait until the car is in it's new garage/home.
bazeng
Well-known member
IT WORKS!!!
I only had the chance to add shims on the front bearing, I added the large shims. I didn't measure anything, I just tried it for the sake of trying it as the car was on the floor.
Anyway, it got rid of my noise!
Decel vibrations have gone!..
I'll play around with it more to try and get rid of a tiny vibrations, but I'm glad to say it is a fix for wub wub noise.
Thanks for the tip!!
I only had the chance to add shims on the front bearing, I added the large shims. I didn't measure anything, I just tried it for the sake of trying it as the car was on the floor.
Anyway, it got rid of my noise!
Decel vibrations have gone!..
I'll play around with it more to try and get rid of a tiny vibrations, but I'm glad to say it is a fix for wub wub noise.
Thanks for the tip!!
Luke
Well-known member
Congratz bazeng! I am glad that it worked for you as well.
Somewhat interesting that you added shims to front bearing, and I did the rear bearing.
I am not entirely sure anymore that the goal is to make the driveshaft sections the same angle. ( since Cy did that but did not help ). Or, if the point is to lower the rear carrier bearing to account for rear diff tilting down on decel.
Maybe it's like try shimming both the front and rear and see which one helps, and you have 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time.
Somewhat interesting that you added shims to front bearing, and I did the rear bearing.
I am not entirely sure anymore that the goal is to make the driveshaft sections the same angle. ( since Cy did that but did not help ). Or, if the point is to lower the rear carrier bearing to account for rear diff tilting down on decel.
Maybe it's like try shimming both the front and rear and see which one helps, and you have 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time.
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Interesting observation Luke. I have not tried the shims yet BUT can comment on the overall concept.
I replaced the front coil springs with some stock EVO8 models last month. I did not cut enough of the coil to bring the ride height down to original/stock the first time then proceeded to do some traveling. In addition I installed a JDM FMIC and cut out a good chunk of the front support which made the front end rise another 1/2 inch or so. After doing all this the driveline noise went away!
I then re-cut the springs to the proper height then lo and behold the wubs returned.
Sooo, my first guestimate is the total angle ( TC to rear axle ) has the biggest impact vs the sectional angles for my application. This would dovetail with Luke's experience and explain the lack of results CP got.
I replaced the front coil springs with some stock EVO8 models last month. I did not cut enough of the coil to bring the ride height down to original/stock the first time then proceeded to do some traveling. In addition I installed a JDM FMIC and cut out a good chunk of the front support which made the front end rise another 1/2 inch or so. After doing all this the driveline noise went away!
I then re-cut the springs to the proper height then lo and behold the wubs returned.
Sooo, my first guestimate is the total angle ( TC to rear axle ) has the biggest impact vs the sectional angles for my application. This would dovetail with Luke's experience and explain the lack of results CP got.
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bazeng
Well-known member
I did some research and the common goal with the rwd guys here in oz is to run the tail shaft in a somewhat u shape config.
Straight is supposably very very bad.
I added shims to the front because the front bearing was somewhat a little high, causing my tailshaft to exit the xfer case on an upwards angle, then going back down to the reat bearing.
By lowering the front, I managed to get a somewhat U shape, and it got rid of about 90% of the vibration and noise!!
It doesn't help that I also have a twin plate clutch either.
Straight is supposably very very bad.
I added shims to the front because the front bearing was somewhat a little high, causing my tailshaft to exit the xfer case on an upwards angle, then going back down to the reat bearing.
By lowering the front, I managed to get a somewhat U shape, and it got rid of about 90% of the vibration and noise!!
It doesn't help that I also have a twin plate clutch either.
